DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 2.60 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Coastal Blues

Knitted DROPS jacket with short raglan sleeves in ”Alaska”. Size S - XXXL.

DROPS 121-21
DROPS design: Pattern no X-359
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-88-96-108-120-132 cm / 31½''-34 5/8''-37¾''-42½''-47¼''-52''
Full length: 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''

Materials: DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio
500-550-650-700-750-850 g color no 12, marine

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 5 mm/US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 4.5/US 7 mm for borders and collar.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') size 4 mm/US 6 – for garter st.

DROPS BUFFALO HORN BUTTON, no 537: 6-6-6-6-8-8 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 2.60 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle): K all rows.
GARTER ST (in the round): K 1 round, P 1 round.

PATTERN: See diagram M.1 to M.3. Diagram shows the pattern from RS. See diagram for your size.

KNITTING TIP (applies to front bands):
To avoid front bands becoming too tight because of the garter st work shortened rows on front band after every 4th row as follows: * beg mid front and K 1 row on the 6 front band sts only, turn piece, tighten thread and K the 6 front band sts. Turn piece and work 4 rows as before on all sts *, repeat from *-* until finished measurements.

DECREASING TIP-1 (applies to body piece): Make all dec from RS!
Dec as follows after marker: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog.

DECREASING TIP-2 (applies to raglan):
Make all dec from RS!
Dec as follows in each transition between body piece and sleeves (beg 2 sts before marker): K2 tog, marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.

INCREASING TIP (applies to body piece):
Make all inc from RS!
Inc 1 st by picking up st from previous row, and K this.

BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band.
1 buttonhole = K tog 2nd and 3rd st from mid front and make 1 YO.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 4, 13, 22, 31, 40, 49 cm / 1½",5 1/8",8¾",12¼",15¾",19¼".
SIZE M: 4, 13, 23, 32, 42, 51 cm / 1½",5 1/8",9",12½",16½",20".
SIZE L: 5, 14, 24, 33, 43, 52 cm / 2",5½",9½",13",17",20½".
SIZE XL: 4, 14, 24, 34, 44, 54 cm / 1½",5½",9½",13 3/8",17¼",21¼".
SIZE XXL: 7, 14, 21, 28, 35, 42, 49, 55 cm / 2¾",5½",8¼",11",13¾",16½",19¼",21 5/8".
SIZE XXXL: 8, 15, 22, 29, 36, 43, 50, 57 cm/ 3 1/8",6",8¾",11 3/8",14¼",17",19¾,22½".
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.

BODY PIECE:
See KNITTING TIP!
Cast on 148-162-176-196-216-236 sts (includes 6 front band sts each side towards front edge) on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with Alaska. Work 6 rows GARTER ST back and forth on needle - see above. Change to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and work next row as follows from RS: 6 front band sts in garter st, M.1A (= 26 sts in SIZE S + M + L + XL and 31 sts in SIZE XXL + XXXL), 84-98-112-132-142-162 stockinette sts, M.1B (= 26 sts in SIZE S + M + L + XL and 31 sts in SIZE XXL + XXXL) and 6 front band sts in garter st. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1 there are 156-170-184-204-230-250 sts on needle. On next row from RS work M.2A instead of M.1A and M.2B instead of M.1B (work remaining sts as before – remember diagram for your size). REMEMBER KNITTING GAUGE and BUTTONHOLES ON RIGHT FRONT BAND! AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 5-5-5-8-8-8 cm / 2"-2"-2"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8" insert 4 markers in piece as follows: marker 1 after 36-36-36-36-44-44 sts (= right after M.2A), marker 2 after another 28-34-39-49-53-62 sts, marker 3 after another 28-30-34-34-36-38 sts and marker 4 after another 28-34-39-49-53-62 sts (= right before M.2B) – there are now 36-36-36-36-44-44 sts after the last marker. AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS dec as follows - see DECREASING TIP-1: Dec 1 st after marker 1 and 2 and 1 st before marker 3 and 4 (= 4 dec). Repeat the dec on every 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm / 2''-2''-2''-2 3/8''-2 3/8''-2 3/8'' a total of 4-4-4-3-3-3 times = 140-154-168-192-218-238 sts.
When piece measures 24-25-25-25-25-26 cm / 9½"-9 3/4"-9 3/4"-9 3/4"-9 3/4"-10 1/4" inc 1 st after marker 1 and 2 and 1 st before marker 3 and 4 (= 4 inc) - see INCREASING TIP. Repeat the inc on every 1.5-1.5-1.5-2-2.5-3 cm / ½"-½"-½"-3/4"-7/8"-1 1/8" a total of 4-4-4-3-3-3 times = 156-170-184-204-230-250 sts.
When piece measures approx 29-30-31-32-33-34 cm / 11 3/8''-11¾''-12¼''-12½''-13''-13 3/8'' - adjust to after at least 1 row after a cable and to next row being worked from RS (inc are complete) - change to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Continue in garter st back and forth on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-4-4-4-7-7 sts on M.2 each side (i.e. dec by K2 tog on the 6 sts in each cable, and P tog the 2 middle P sts in lace pattern) = 148-162-176-196-216-236 sts. When the garter st measures 4 cm / 1½'' (make sure to have a buttonhole in the middle of this garter st section), K 1 row from RS. Change to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and work M.3 (front bands continue in garter st). After 3 rows in M.3 (piece measures approx 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm / 13 3/8''-13¾''-14¼''-14½''-15''-15¼'') work next row as follows from RS: work 37-41-44-49-54-59 sts (= right front piece), bind off 6 sts for armhole, work 62-68-76-86-96-106 sts (= back piece), bind off 6 sts for armhole and work remaining 37-41-44-49-54-59 sts (= left front piece). Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 48-50-52-54-58-62 sts on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 with Alaska. Work GARTER ST in the round - see above. When piece measures 3 cm / 1 1/8'' change to double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8. K 2 rounds, AT THE SAME TIME on round 1 inc 10-12-12-14-14-14 sts evenly = 58-62-64-68-72-76 sts. On next round bind off 6 sts mid under sleeve = 52-56-58-62-66-70 sts left on needle. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on the same circular needle as body piece where bind off for armholes = 240-262-280-308-336-364 sts. Insert a marker in each transition between body piece and sleeves (= 4 markers). READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Work first row as follows from WS: 6 front band sts in garter st, continue M.3 as before on the next 30-34-37-42-47-52 sts, work 54-58-60-64-68-72 stockinette sts (= P from WS, K from RS), continue M.3 on the next 60-66-74-84-94-104 sts as before, work 54-58-60-64-68-72 stockinette sts, continue M.3 on the next 30-34-37-42-47-52 sts and finish with 6 front band sts in garter st. Continue in pattern like this, AT THE SAME TIME on first row from RS dec for raglan in each transition between body piece and sleeves as follows - See DECREASING TIP-2:
Beg on first row from RS and then dec on every 4th row (i.e. every other row from RS) a total of 4-3-3-2-0-0 times and then on every other row a total of 15-18-19-22-26-28 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 50-52-53-55-56-58 cm / 19 3/4"-20½"-21"-21 5/8"-22"-22 3/4" slip 9-11-11-14-14-17 sts at beg of the next 2 rows on a stitch holder for neck. Bind off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front as follows: 3 sts 1-1-1-1-2-2 times and 2 sts 2-2-3-3-3-3 times, then 1 st at the beg of every row until piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾'' from shoulder (piece measures approx 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼'' measured from mid back).
After all dec for raglan and neck are complete there are approx 54-78 sts left on needle.

ELEVATION MID BACK:
Pick up from RS approx 90-140 sts round neck (includes sts on needle and stitch holders) on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Alaska.
Work 1 row from WS with front bands in garter st as before, M.3 continue as before and stockinette st on remaining sts as before, AT THE SAME TIME dec evenly to 80-82-84-86-88-90 sts (do not dec on front bands). Continue in pattern back and forth as before, AT THE SAME TIME work elevation mid back as follows – NOTE: When turning mid piece, slip first st and tighten thread before working return row.
Beg from RS on right front piece and work row to marker on left front piece (i.e. in the middle of raglan at the front), turn piece and work row to marker on right front piece (i.e. in the middle of raglan at the front the other side). Turn piece, and work row until 7 sts remain before marker on left front piece, turn piece and work row until 7 sts remain before marker on right front piece. Turn piece, work row to marker on left side on back piece, turn piece and work row to marker on right side on back piece. Turn piece and work row to end.

NECKLINE:
Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and K 1 row from WS on all sts. K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly to 111-117-117-123-129 sts (do not inc on front bands). Work next row as follows from WS: 6 front band sts in garter st, * P3, K3 *, repeat from *-* and finish with P3 and 6 front band sts in garter st. Continue in rib like this. When rib measures 3 cm / 1 1/8'' inc all K3 to K4 (as seen from RS). When neck measures 7 cm / 2¾'' inc all P3 to P4 (as seen from RS). Bind off with K over K and P over P when rib measures approx 10-11-12-13-14-15 cm / 4''-4 3/8''-4¾''-5 1/8''-5½-6''.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew openings under sleeves. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = P2 in the same st
symbols = K2 in the same st
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (42)

country flag Carine M wrote:

Serait-il possible d'avoir de l'aide pour tricoter cette magnifique veste avec des manches longues ?

01.12.2022 - 06:24

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Carine, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande. Vous pourrez trouver ici toutes nos vestes tricotées de bas en haut avec manches longues avec une tension de 17-16 mailles, vous y trouverez peut être l'inspiration nécessaire. Merci pour votre compréhension. Bon tricot!

01.12.2022 - 11:31

country flag Fabienne Rodrigo wrote:

Pourquoi dans les diagrammes M2 À et M2 B il y a plus de mailles pour la torsades sur 6 mailles que pour le reste du motif? Comment le comprendre? Faut-il tricoter les autres mailles comme elles viennent ou reprendre le motif au rang 1

17.01.2022 - 11:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Rodrigo, le point ajouré de M.2A/B se tricote sur moins de rangs que les torsades; autrement dit, veillez à bien tricoter une torsade tous les 6 rangs, et répétez en même temps les 8 rangs du point ajouré entre les torsades. Bon tricot!

17.01.2022 - 15:24

country flag Beatriz wrote:

No entiendo Esto: “AL MISMO TIEMPO cuando la labor mida 50-52-53-55-56-58 cm desl 9-11-11-14-14-17 pts al inicio de las sig 2 filas a un gancho aux para el escote.” Cuantas pasadas hay que tejer con esos puntos en el gancho auxiliar?

25.02.2019 - 09:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Beatriz. Estos puntos se dejan en espera hasta trabajar el cuello. Lee el apartado ELEVACIÓN EN EL CENTRO DE LA ESPALDA.

25.02.2019 - 19:47

country flag Sussi Beck wrote:

Hej. Ved halsindtagning skal man lukke 1m til 64 cm (I str xl), skal jeg lukke ind over ærmet?

26.11.2018 - 12:05

DROPS Design answered:

hei Sussi. Du skal felle 1 maske mot halsåpningen. Du feller i begynnelsen av hver pinnen fra hver side. Du fortsetter altså å felle til halsåpning på samme måte som tidligere, men nå felles kun 1 maske. God fornøyelse

03.12.2018 - 09:10

Christa wrote:

Regarding "M2A & M2B" the first 8 rows are 30 sts across and the rows 9-12 show only the 6 sts with cable. How do I work the pattern correctly? I am not sure what to do after row 8.

02.10.2017 - 07:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Christa, when the lace pattern in M.2 A /B is finished, repeat the lace pattern from row 1, and continue the cable as in diagram, when the cable pattern is finished, repeat from row 1. Happy knitting!

02.10.2017 - 11:50

country flag Eveline Patist wrote:

Ik zie m2a en m2b niet meer op de patroonbeschrijving

11.02.2017 - 17:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Eveline. Jawel, je breit beide op het lijf en ze staan onderaan het patroon.

13.02.2017 - 13:38

Sarah wrote:

Hi Could you tell me ehat m3 vorresponds too please? Its not in the instructions. Kind regards Sarah

26.01.2017 - 15:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sarah, M.3 is a diagram worked over 4 sts and 8 rows you will find on the right-hand side of M.2B in size S + M + L + XL. You will work M.3 on body before yoke and on yoke then. Happy knitting!

26.01.2017 - 15:49

country flag Agnes wrote:

Bonjour même problème que "Marie-France 14.10.2013 kl.21:41" et votre réponse ne m'aide pas. taille L. à 53cm de hauteur mettre sur un arrêt de maille 11 m au début des 2 rgs suivants. on met sur l'arrêt de maille les 6 m point mousse de la bordure et les 5 suivantes? possible de nous mettre en contact avec marie france? merci

14.11.2015 - 19:25

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Agnès, oui tout à fait, vous placez en attente les 6 m point mousse de la bordure devant + les 5 m suivantes soit 11 m au total au début des 2 rangs suivants (11 m en attente sur l'endroit, 11 m en attente sur l'endroit) pour chacun des 2 devants. Bon tricot!

02.12.2015 - 17:08

country flag Lily Thijssen wrote:

Wat voor lengte, van de rondbreinaald heb ik nodig, voor bijv. patroon 121-21?

07.11.2014 - 22:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Lily. Dit staat boven aan het patroon: DROPS BREINLD ZONDER KNOP en RONDBREINLD (80 cm) 5 mm - of de maat die u nodig heeft voor een stekenverhouding van 17 st x 22 nld in tricotst = 10 x 10 cm. Veel breiplezier.

11.11.2014 - 16:11

country flag OLGA wrote:

DĚKUJI...........

03.01.2014 - 09:21