DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 63.05$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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DROPS jacket in stockinette st with front bands in rib in 2 strands ”Alpaca” or 1 strand ”Nepal”.

DROPS 126-15
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-510
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-90-96-106-118-130 cm / 31½''-35''-37¾''-41¾''-46½''-51''
Full length: 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm / 26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
650-700-800-850-950-1050 g color no 0618m, eco light beige mix
or use: DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
750-800-850-1000-1100-1200 g color no 0618m, camel mix

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 5 mm/US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 4.5 mm/US 7 - for rib.

DROPS BUFFALO HORN BUTTON NO 537: 6 pcs for all sizes.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 63.05$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

INCREASING TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next row work YO into back of loop to avoid a hole.

BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band. 1 buttonhole = bind off 1 st and cast on 1 new st on next row.
Make buttonholes when piece measures 18 cm / 7'', 27 cm / 10½'' and 36 cm / 14 1/4'', measured from bottom edge of jacket.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 164-184-196-220-244-268 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with 2 strands Alpaca or 1 strand Nepal (includes 1 edge st towards front edge each side). Work 1 edge st, rib K2 / P2 until 3 sts remain, finish with K2 and 1 edge st. Continue in rib like this until piece measures 7 cm / 2¾''. Now K 1 row from RS AT THE SAME TIME dec 32-36-38-42-48-52 sts evenly = 132-148-158-178-196-216 sts. Change to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8. Continue in stockinette st. Insert 2 markers in piece, 29-33-35-40-44-49 sts in from each side (back piece = 74-82-88-98-108-118 sts). When piece measures 10 cm / 4'' dec 1 st each side of both markers and repeat the dec on every 4.5-4.5-4.5-3.5-3.5-3.5 cm / 1 3/4"-1 3/4"-1 3/4"-1 1/4"-1 1/4"-1 1/4" a total of 5-5-5-6-6-6 times = 112-128-138-154-172-192 sts. When piece measures 34 cm / 13½'' inc 1 st each side of both markers. Repeat the inc when piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm / 15¼''-15¾''-16 1/8''-16½''-17''-17¼'' = 120-136-146-162-180-200 sts. When piece measures 48-49-50-51-52-53 cm / 19''-19¼''-19¾''-20''-20½''-21'' bind off 6 sts for armhole each side (= 3 sts each side of marker) and complete each piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 62-70-76-84-94-104 sts. Bind off for armhole at beg of row each side as follows: 2 sts 0-1-2-3-5-7 times and 1 st 1-2-3-4-4-4 times = 60-62-62-64-66-68 sts. When piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm / 25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8'' bind off the middle 16-16-18-18-20-20 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Bind off 1 st on neckline on next row = 21-22-21-22-22-23 sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm / 26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 23-27-29-33-37-42 sts. Bind off for armhole at the side as described for back piece = 22-23-22-23-23-24 sts left on shoulder (includes 1 edge st towards front edge). Bind off when piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm / 26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Like left front piece, but mirrored.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round. Cast on 52-52-56-60-60-60 sts on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 with 2 strands Alpaca or 1 strand Nepal. Work rib K2 / P2 until piece measures 5 cm / 2''. K 1 round AT THE SAME TIME dec 12-10-12-14-12-10 sts evenly = 40-42-44-46-48-50 sts. Change to double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8. Insert a marker at beg of round. Continue in stockinette st. When piece measures 8 cm / 3'' inc 1 st each side of marker and repeat the inc on every 7.5-6.5-5-4-3.5-3 cm / 2 7/8"-2½"-2"-1½"-1 1/4"-1 1/8" a total of 6-7-8-10-11-12 times = 52-56-60-66-70-74 sts. When piece measures 50-50-49-49-47-46 cm / 19 3/4"-19 3/4"-19 1/4"-19 1/4"-18½"-18" (less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder) bind off 6 sts mid under sleeve (= 3 sts each side of marker). Bind off for sleeve cap at beg of row each side as follows: 2 sts 2 times, 1 st 3-4-5-6-8-10 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 57-58-58-59-59-60 cm / 22½''-22¾''-22¾''-23¼''-23¼''-23 5/8''. Bind off 3 sts 1 time each side and then bind off remaining sts.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams. Set in sleeves.

LEFT FRONT BAND/NECKLINE:
Pick up 164-168-172-180-184-188 sts (approx 22 sts/10 cm/4") with start mid back on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with 2 strands Alpaca or 1 strand Nepal (pick up inside bind off row on back piece and inside 1 edge st along the side of jacket). K 1 row from WS and continue in rib as follows from RS: 1 edge st, K1, * P2, K2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with 2 garter sts – see above. Continue like this until rib measures 5-5-6-6-7-7 cm / 2''-2''-2 3/8''-2 3/8''-2 3/4''-2 3/4''. Now inc 1 st in each of the top 10-10-11-11-12-12 K-sections (not in K1 at beg of row) – See INCREASING TIP! = 174-178-183-191-196-200 sts. Continue until rib measures 9-9-10-10-11-11 cm / 3½"-3½"-4"-4"-4½"-4½". Now inc 1 st in each of the top 8-8-9-9-10-10 K-sections (not in K1 at beg of row) = 182-186-192-200-206-210 sts. Continue until rib measures 13-13-14-14-15-15 cm / 5 1/8''-5 1/8''-5½''-5½''-6''-6''. Bind off with K over K and P over P.

RIGHT FRONT BAND/NECKLINE:
Like left side, but beg from bottom edge. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 3 cm / 1'' make BUTTONHOLES – see above – and repeat when piece measures 11-11-12-12-13-13 cm / 4 3/8''-4 3/8''-4¾''-4¾''-5 1/8''-5 1/8''. Bind off with K over K and P over P when rib measures 13-13-14-14-15-15 cm / 5 1/8''-5 1/8''-5½''-5½''-6''-6''.

FURTHER ASSEMBLY:
Sew front bands tog mid back inside 1 edge st. Sew buttons on left front band.


Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (31)

country flag Marianne wrote:

Hello! When the pattern transfers from "Jacket" to "Back Piece" (or another piece it begins with = and then a number of stitches. Does this mean that for the "Back Piece" those are the amount of stitches I need to cast on? Or do I just continue on from Jacket to Back Piece? If so, what does that mean I do for the front pieces? Thank you!

31.01.2023 - 01:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Marianne, This is the number of stitches left on the back piece after the division (which you then work onwards) and the same applies to the front pieces. Happy knitting!

31.01.2023 - 06:46

country flag Nin wrote:

Is het mogelijk om de mouwen in het patroon te breien, dus vest te breien tot aan splitsen van patroondelen, dan de mouwen rondbreien tot aan afkanten tot aan mouwkop en daar vest en mouwen samenvoegen?

21.12.2020 - 22:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Nin,

Dan zou je denk ik het afkanten van de mouwen moeten verwerken in de vorm van minderingen in de aansluitlijn tussen de panden en de mouwen. Je krijgt dan nog steeds een visuele lijn tussen de mouwen en de panden.

10.01.2021 - 11:36

country flag Sandrine Brzezinski wrote:

Bonjour, je suis au niveau de la bordure du col et je ne comprend pas ce que veut dire une section, quand vous dites : augmenter 1m dans chacune des 10 sections endroit du haut, je vous remercie par avance, car je sui bloquer.

08.11.2020 - 16:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Brzezinski, quand on tricote en côtes 2 m env, 2 m end, une section endroit correspond aux parties des côtes tricotées en mailles endroit, par ex, on va augmenter 1 m aille dans les 10 sections endroit des côtes = on aura ici 10 fois (2 m env/3 m end) en haut du col- et toujours des côtes 2 m end/2 m env sur les autres mailles. Vous aurez ensuite 8 fois (2 m env/4 m end), 2 fois (2 m env/3 m end) et le reste en côtes 2 m end/2 m env. Bon tricot!

09.11.2020 - 11:12

country flag Bep Mudde wrote:

Ik vind het patroon heel erg leuk, maar mijn vraag is, kan ik het patroon ook in delen breien, bv de voorpanden achterpanden los ik ben namelijk geen ster in rondbreien; maar wel een heel leuk patroon dank je wel, ik hoop iets van jullie te horen groetjes

01.10.2020 - 12:38

country flag Suzie wrote:

Bonjour, puisque je désire tricoter le chandail en utilisant une laine différente. Serait-il possible d'avoir les dimensions précise de chaque pièce grandeur médium ? Merci beaucoup pour votre aide.

01.04.2020 - 16:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Suzie, vous trouverez toutes les mesures disponibles pour ce vêtement en bas de page, nous n'en avons pas d'autres à vous proposer. Vous pouvez éventuellement recalculer celles qui vous manquent à partir de l'échantillon et des explications. Merci pour votre compréhension, bon tricot!

01.04.2020 - 16:30

country flag Juliette Michielsen wrote:

Als je voor de mouwkop afkant in maat M ...hoeveel steken heb je dan uiteindelijk nog op de naald staan?

25.12.2019 - 10:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Juliette,

Dat zou je uit kunnen rekenen door alle minderingen (dus de minderingen voor de mouwkop en de minderingen na de boordsteek) af te trekken van het aantal opgezette steken en alle meerderingen (in de zijkanten) erbij op te tellen.

26.12.2019 - 16:03

country flag Carine wrote:

Bonjour, je suis au niveau des bordures pour l augmentation des cotes 2/2. Si je comprends bien a partir de 7 cm je passe en cotes 3/2 sur les 12 premières sections et à compter de 11 cm je passe en cotes 4/2. Est ce que j ai bien compris? Merci de votre aide, bonne journée.

19.08.2019 - 15:10

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Carine, vous passez effectivement en côtes 3 m end/2 m env à 7 cm et 4 m end/2 m env à 11 cm mais bien uniquement dans les 12 sections endroit côté col, on continue en côtes 2 m end/2 m env pour la bordure devant. Bon tricot!

19.08.2019 - 15:51

country flag Victorina Rickman wrote:

Where are the increases in the band supposed to end? Are they supposed to end at the corner for the front piece or somewhere on the neckline? The second is how did you pick up the stitches on the front side? My row gauge was correct, but I couldn’t come close to getting the row gauge when I picked up the stitches on the slipped stitch edge. I wanted to know if you were using a different technique than I am used to or if I missed understood something. Thank you for any help you can give.

25.07.2019 - 10:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Rickman, if you don't get the correct number of stitches when picking up for front band, just adjust to the correct number of stitches on first row from WS (= when you K frim WS). The increases in rib are worked in the 10-11-12 K-sections of the rib on the top of neck (at the beg of row from RS on left front band / at the end of row from RS on right front band). Happy knitting!

06.08.2019 - 10:12

country flag Liesbeth wrote:

Bij de bies moet er gemeerderd worden in de rechte delen : aan de goede kant dus? en hoe wordt er dan verder gebreid? Wordt de verhouding dan van de boordsteek 3 recht 2 averecht??

15.02.2019 - 08:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Liesbeth

Dat klopt inderdaad, je breit de boordsteek dan met 3 recht/ 2 averecht.

28.02.2019 - 11:27

country flag Dinah wrote:

Merci pour ce modèle et ses explications qui sont claires. Bien amicalement.

06.01.2019 - 14:50