Seaside Victoria |
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DROPS jacket in ”Muskat” with yoke knitted from side to side with cables and shortened rows. Size S to XXXL.
DROPS 119-25 |
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GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows. GARTER ST (in the round): K 1 round, P 1 round. SHORTENED ROWS: To make yoke wider along bottom edge work shortened rows as follows: * Work 2 rows on all sts, work row to marker-2, turn, tighten thread and work return row, work 2 rows on all sts, work row to marker-1, turn, tighten thread and work return row *, repeat from *-*, i.e. 1 repeat = 4 rows at the top and 8 rows at the bottom. PATTERN: See diagram M.1 and M.2 - diagram is seen from RS and shows 1 pattern repeat. DECREASING TIP (applies to body piece and sleeves): Make all dec from RS! Dec as follows BEFORE marker at the side: K2 tog. Dec as follows AFTER marker at the side: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso. BUTTONHOLES: Make buttonholes on right front band from WS. 1 BUTTONHOLE = K tog 3rd and 4th st from mid front and make 1 YO. Make buttonholes when piece measures: SIZE S and M: 6, 14, 22 and 30 cm / 2⅜", 5½", 8¾" and 11¾". SIZE L, XL, XXL, XXXL: 6, 13, 20, 27 and 34 cm / 2⅜", 5⅛", 8", 10⅝" and 13⅜". -------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------------- YOKE (part 1): Worked back and forth on 2 double pointed needles, from side to side from mid front. LOOSELY cast on 22 sts (for all sizes) on needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Muskat. K 2 rows on all sts (first row = RS from bottom edge). Work next row as follows: K4, K2 tog, 1 YO, K1, K2 in each of the next 3 sts (= K6), K2, K2 in each of the next 3 sts (= K6), K1, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso, K4 = 28 sts. Work next row as follows from WS: K4, P2, K1, P6, K2, P6, K1, P2 and K4, turn. Insert 2 markers in piece as follows (from RS): marker-1 after 7 sts and marker-2 after a total of 21 sts, i.e. there are 7 sts after marker-2 at the top. Now work SHORTENED ROWS – see above - and PATTERN as follows: 4 GARTER STS – see above, M.1 on the next 20 sts and 4 garter sts. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Continue until piece measures approx 96-100-104-108-112-116 cm / 37¾"-39⅜"-41"-42½"-44"-45¾"- along bottom edge (piece measures approx 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm / 19"-19¾"-20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾" at the top) - adjust to after 1 full repeat. Work next row as follows: K7, * K2 tog, K2 tog, K2 tog *, K2, repeat from *-* 1 more time, K7 = 22 sts. K 1 row on all sts, and bind off in K sts from RS. Remove markers. YOKE (part 2): Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 5 sts (= left front band) on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6, then pick up 1 st in outer loop of each garter st along bottom edge of yoke part-1, cast on 5 new sts at the end of row (= right front band) = approx 200 to 260 sts. K 1 row from WS on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 210-218-230-238-250-258 (if you have less sts make a YO at evenly intervals across the row to make up the no of sts – work YO into back of loop on return row to avoid a hole – if you have to many sts K2 tog evenly across the row). Insert 4 markers in piece as follows from RS: MARKER-1 after 36-38-40-42-44-46 sts, MARKER-2: 38-38-40-40-42-42 sts from marker-1, MARKER-3: 62-66-70-74-78-82 sts from marker-2 and MARKER-4: 38-38-40-40-42-42 sts from marker-3 (= 36-38-40-42-44-46 sts left after the last marker). Work next row as follows (from RS): 5 front band sts in garter st, 28-30-32-34-36-38 stockinette sts, M.2 (= 6 sts – marker-1 sits in the middle of these sts), 32-32-34-34-36-36 stockinette sts, M.2 (marker-2 sits in the middle of these sts), 56-60-64-68-72-76 stockinette sts, M.2 (marker-3 sits in the middle of these sts), 32-32-34-34-36-36 stockinette sts, M.2 (marker-4 sits in the middle of these sts), 28-30-32-34-36-38 stockinette sts and 5 front band sts in garter st. In M.2 you inc 2 sts on every other row (incorporate inc sts in stockinette st as you go along). Continue like this until there are 298-322-342-366-386-402 sts on needle. Work 1 row from WS after the last inc, yoke now measures a total of approx 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm / 7½"-8"-8¼"-8¾"-9"-9½" in the height. BODY PIECE: Continue as follows: Work row to marker-1 (= 47-51-54-58-61-64 sts), slip sts from here to marker-2 on a stitch holder for sleeve (= 60-64-68-72-76-78 sts), cast on 6-8-10-12-14-16 new sts under sleeve, work sts to marker-3 (= 84-92-98-106-112-118 sts), slip sts from here to marker-4 on a stitch holder for sleeve (= 60-64-68-72-76-78 sts), cast on 6-8-10-12-14-16 new sts under sleeve, work remaining sts (= 47-51-54-58-61-64 sts). There is now a total of 190-210-226-246-262-278 sts on needle. Remove all markers. Insert 1 new marker each side 50-55-59-64-68-72 sts in from each side (= 90-100-108-118-126-134 sts between markers on back piece). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Continue in stockinette st back and forth on needle with 5 front band sts in garter st each side towards mid front. When piece measures 3-3-4-4-5-5 cm / 1⅛"-1⅛"-1½"-1½"-2"-2" dec 1 st each side of both markers – SEE DECREASING TIP! Repeat the dec on every 4 cm / 1½" a total of 5 times = 170-190-206-226-242-258 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 6 cm / 2⅜" make BUTTONHOLES – see above! When piece measures 23-24-25-26-27-28 cm / 9"-9½"-9¾"-10¼"-10⅝"-11" inc 1 st each side of both markers (inc from RS by K2 in st each side of marker), repeat the inc on every 3 cm / 1⅛" a total of 5 times = 190-210-226-246-262-278 sts. When piece measures 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm / 15-15¼"-15¾"-16⅛"-16½"-17" change to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4, work 6 rows garter st and bind off loosely. SLEEVE: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Slip the 60-64-68-72-76-78 sts from one stitch holder on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and pick up 1 st in each of the 6-8-10-12-14-16 sts cast on under sleeve = 66-72-78-84-90-94 sts. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Insert a marker mid under sleeve and work stockinette st in the round. When sleeve measures 2 cm / ¾" dec 1 st each side of marker – SEE DECREASING TIP! Repeat the dec on every 4-3-2.5-2-2-2 cm / 1½"-1⅛"-⅞"-¾"-¾"-¾" a total of 7-9-11-13-14-14 times = 52-54-56-58-62-66 sts. When piece measures 29 cm / 11⅜" work next round as follows: K 21-22-23-24-26-28, P1, K2 in each of the next 3 sts (= K6), P2, K2 in each of the next 3 sts (= K6), P1 and K 21-22-23-24-26-28 = 58-60-62-64-68-72 sts. Continue as follows: 18-19-20-21-23-25 stockinette sts, 1 garter st, M.1 (= 20 sts), 1 garter st and 18-19-20-21-23-25 stockinette sts. When sleeve measures approx 45 cm / 17¾" (adjust after 1 full repeat) K2 tog on the 6 sts on cable (i.e. 6 sts become 3 sts) – work remaining sts as before = 52-54-56-58-62-66 sts. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4, work 6 rows garter st on all sts and bind off loosely. Knit the other sleeve in the same way on sts on the other stitch holder. LEFT FRONT BAND: Pick up 1 st in each of the 5 sts cast on for front band when working yoke, part-2. Work garter st back and forth on 2 double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 until front band measures approx 2 cm / ¾" less than the width of yoke, part 1 - slip sts on a stitch holder. Sew front band to yoke, edge to edge – pull it slightly when sewing it on. RIGHT FRONT BAND: Like left front band, but after 1 cm / ⅜" make 1 buttonhole in line with the others on front band, repeat when 2 rows remain. NECKLINE: Work the 5 sts from right front band in on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4, pick up 1 st in the outer loop in each garter st along neckline (= approx 100 to 120 sts) and work the 5 sts from left front band in on needle = approx 110 to 130 sts in total. K 3 rows back and forth on needle and bind off. ASSEMBLY: Sew on buttons. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
Comments / Questions (50)
Ina wrote:
Bei mir reicht die angegebene Wollmenge für Größe S nicht, Vorder- und Rückenteil (400g)und ein Ärmel(100g) sind fertig. Es fehlen jetzt noch ein ganzer Ärmel und die Blenden. Meine Maschenprobe ist M18 x R26. Es fehlen jetzt noch 150 g. Wie kann das sein?
26.10.2019 - 19:30DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Ina, stricken Sie DROPS Muskat? Diese Jacke wird hier mit Muskat und eine Maschenprobe von 21 R x 28 R gestrickt - wenn Sie eine andere Wolle benutzt haben, war vielleicht die Umrechnung falsch (hier kalkuliert man die gesamte Länge). Wenden Sie sich bitte an Ihrem Laden, wo Sie die Wolle gekauft haben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
04.11.2019 - 12:16Deborah wrote:
Buongiorno. Le indicazioni delle asole sono sbagliate perché se si misura da sotto la manica la prima asola si fa a circa 16cm dall’inizio del secondo sprone e quindi risulta che manca un’asola. Guardando la foto mancherebbe la terza asola dall’alto.
16.07.2018 - 09:31DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Deborah, la 1° asola sulla parte del corpo si lavora dopo 6 cm e le altre asole alle distanze indicate: se sta lavorando ad esempio la taglia S le altre asole saranno a 14, 22 e 30 cm dall'inizio del corpo. Le prime 2 asole verranno lavorate alla fine quando si riprendono le maglie dello sprone. Buon lavoro!
16.07.2018 - 09:56Deborah wrote:
Quindi ogni volta che faccio il ferro accorciato al segnapunto 1 e ritorno, non lo considero come ferro sullo schema M1 o solo quando coincide con l’intreccio?
23.06.2018 - 17:27DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Deborah. Non consideri il ferro accorciato fino al segnapunti 1 come ferro dello schema. Buon lavoro!
23.06.2018 - 21:05Deborah wrote:
Scusate ma non ho capito. Se unisco tutte le info, guardando il motivo M1 le righe 1 e 2 sono complete, la 3 dove si fanno gli intrecci ha il ferro accorciato al segnapunti 2, riga 4 è il ferro di ritorno, 5 e 6 ferro completo, 7 ferro accorciato fino al segnapunto 1, 8 ritorno. Seguendo questa ripetizione mi trovo alla riga 15 dove dovrei fare l’intreccio e anche il ferro accorciato al segnapunto 1. Sbaglio la partenza iniziale?
23.06.2018 - 08:41DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Deborah. Quando arriva al ferro 15, lavora fino al segnapunti 1: quindi le 4 m a legaccio + le prime 3 del motivo M1. Non viene lavorata nessuna maglia di quelle che vengono intrecciate. Ferro 16: lavora su queste 7 m. Ferro 17: lavora come se fosse il 15, su tutte le m e intrecciando. Ci riscriva se è ancora in difficoltà. Buon lavoro!
23.06.2018 - 10:01Deborah wrote:
Buonasera. Ho un problema a far coincidere il motivo M1 con i ferri accorciati. Mi trovo che sul ferro della treccia dovrei fare il ferro accorciato fino al segnapunto 1: quindi salto la treccia o la faccio al ferro successivo benché non coincidano poi il numero di ferri?
23.06.2018 - 00:41DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Deborah. Il segnapunti 1 si trova dopo la terza maglia del motivo M1. Lavora fino al segnapunti, lavora il ferro di ritorno e al ferro successivo intreccia. Verifichi sempre che gli intrecci siano a distanza di 6 ferri (lavorati sulle maglie della treccia) l'uno dall'altro. Buon lavoro!
23.06.2018 - 08:06Catie wrote:
Je n'ai pas compris comment compter les rangs raccourcis. Qu'entendez-vous par 1 rapport = 4 rangs en haut et 8 rangs en bas ?
29.12.2015 - 20:39DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Catie, 1 série des rangs raccourcis = 8 rangs tricotés en début de rang (= bas de la bordure) et 4 rangs seulement en fin de rang (= haut de la bordure) - vu sur l'endroit. Bon tricot!
02.01.2016 - 15:21Anna Stummer wrote:
1. Sind bei M.1und M2 jeweils nur die Reihen auf der Vorderseite gezeichnet und die Rückreihe links bzw. Maschen, wie sie erscheinen? 2. Bei Anleitung für Ärmel steht "nach einem ganzen Rapport M1" - was ist unter "ganzer Rapport" zu verstehen - wieviele Reihen, denn im Diagramm sind es nur 2 Verzopfungen?? Vielen Dank für Ihre Antwort! Anna Stummer
21.08.2015 - 18:01DROPS Design answered:
Antwort siehe unten! :-)
01.09.2015 - 23:26Anna Stummer wrote:
1. Sind bei M.1und M2 jeweils nur die Reihen auf der Vorderseite gezeichnet und die Rückreihe links bzw. Maschen, wie sie erscheinen? 2. Bei Anleitung für Ärmel steht "nach einem ganzen Rapport M1" - was ist unter "ganzer Rapport" zu verstehen - wieviele Reihen, denn im Diagramm sind es nur 2 Verzopfungen?? Vielen Dank für Ihre Antwort! Anna Stummer
18.08.2015 - 16:30DROPS Design answered:
Es sind alle Reihen gezeichnet, also Hin- und Rück-R. 1 Rapport von M.1 besteht aus 12 R. Es soll aber nicht heißen, dass Sie nur 12 R stricken, sondern Sie stricken in etwa bis zur angegebenen Höhe, achten dabei aber darauf, dass 1 Rapport, also die 12 R, abgeschlossen sind.
01.09.2015 - 10:44Ana wrote:
Não consigo compreender como se fazem os aumentos em M2. São feitos de cada lado de M2 ao longo de toda a carreira ou têm de ser incorporados dentro do esquema de M2? Obrigada.
03.03.2015 - 15:05DROPS Design answered:
Os aumentos estão já incluídos em cada repetição do diagrama M2. Basts seguir o diagrama. Bom tricô!
05.03.2015 - 11:22Ana wrote:
Não consigo compreender como se fazem os aumentos em M2. São feitos de cada lado de M2 ao longo de toda a carreira ou têm de ser incorporados dentro do esquema de M2? Obrigada.
28.02.2015 - 21:10