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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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All measurements in charts are in cm.
= K | |
= P | |
= 1 YO between 2 sts | |
= K2 tog | |
= P2 tog | |
= P3 tog |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Elegant Dreams |
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DROPS Bolero in ”Classic Alpaca” with ¾ sleeves. Size S – XXXL.
DROPS 115-16 |
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PATTERN: See diagram M.1 – diagram is seen from RS and shows 1 horizontal pattern repeat. DECREASING TIP (apply to neckline): Dec from RS inside 1 edge st. Dec as follows AFTER 1 st: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso. Dec as follows BEFORE 1 st: K2 tog. ---------------------------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------------------------- BACK PIECE: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 74-82-90-100-110-120 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with Classic Alpaca. Work stockinette st. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 2-2-3-3-4-4 cm / ¾"-¾"-1⅛"-1⅛"1½"-1½" inc 1 st each side, and repeat the inc on every 2 cm / ¾" a total of 6 times = 86-94-102-112-122-132 sts. When piece measures 14-15-16-17-18-19 cm / 5½"-6"-6¼"-6¾"-7"-7½" bind off for armhole each side at the beg of every row: 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 0-0-0-1-2-2 times, 2 sts 1-2-3-3-3-5 times and 1 st 2-3-3-4-4-4 times = 70-72-76-78-82-84 sts. When piece measures 30-32-34-36-38-40 cm / 11¾"-12½"-13⅜"-14¼"-15"-15¾ slip the middle 22-22-24-24-26-26 sts on a stitch holder for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Bind off 1 st on neckline on next row = 23-24-25-26-27-28 sts left on each shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 32-34-36-38-40-42 cm / 12½"-13⅜"-14¼"-15"-15¾"-16½". RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 14-18-21-27-31-36 sts on needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with Classic Alpaca. Work stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME on row 2 inc 1 st towards mid front, and repeat the inc on every row a total of 6 times and then on every other row a total of 8 times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 2-2-3-3-4-4 cm / ¾"-¾"-1⅛"-1⅛"1½"-1½" inc at the side as described for back piece. When all inc and dec are complete there are 34-38-41-47-51-56 sts on needle. When piece measures 14-15-16-17-18-19 cm / 5½"-6"-6¼"-6¾"-7"-7½" bind off for armhole at the side as described for back piece. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm / 6¼"-6¾"-7"-7½"-8"-8¼" dec 1 st towards mid front – SEE DECREASING TIP – and repeat the dec on every 4 cm / 1½" a total of 3-3-3-4-4-4 times = 23-24-25-26-27-28 sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 32-34-36-38-40-42 cm / 12½"-13⅜"-14¼"-15"-15¾"-16½". LEFT FRONT PIECE: Like right front piece, but mirrored. SLEEVE: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 54-58-62-66-70-74 sts on needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Classic Alpaca. Work rib, K2/P2, with 1 edge st each side. When piece measures 3 cm / 1⅛" change to needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and continue in stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-8-8-10-10-10 sts evenly on first row = 46-50-54-56-60-64 sts. When piece measures 5 cm / 2" inc 1 st each side, and repeat the inc on every 5-4-4-3-3-3 row a total of 10-10-10-12-12-13 times = 66-70-74-80-84-90 sts. When piece measures 24-23-22-21-20-19 cm / 9½"-9"-8¾"-8¼"-8"-7½" (less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder) bind off for sleeve cap each side at the beg of every row: 4 sts 1 time and 3 sts 1 time, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 31 cm / 12¼", now bind off 3 sts each side 1 time and cast of remaining sts, piece measures approx 32 cm / 12½". ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams and side seams (inside 1 edge st). Pick up 288-304-336-352-384-400 sts (includes sts on stith holder on back piece) round the whole opening of bolero on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Classic Alpaca. NOTE: make sure to pick up enough sts along the shaped front pieces. Work M.1 (= 18-19-21-22-24-25 repeats). After M.1 there are 540-570-630-660-720-750 sts on needle, bind off with K over K and P over P. Sew sleeve seams inside 1 edge st and set in sleeves. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (60)
Vidal wrote:
Bonjour, je suis en train de tricoter ce boléro et j\'ai du mal à comprendre la phrasé : \"EN MÊME TEMPS, au 2ème rang, monter 1 m côté milieu devant\".\r\nCela veut-il dire qu\'il faut simplement faire 1 augmentation de 1 maille au milieu du devant ? \r\nMerci
25.07.2021 - 14:29DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Vidal, vous allez monter 1 maille côté milieu devant (= côté ouverture du devant si vous préférez) à la fin de chaque rang (sur l'envers pour le devant gauche, sur l'endroit pour le devant droit) - cette vidéo montre comment procéder pour monter plusieurs mailles en fin de rang. Bon tricot!
26.07.2021 - 08:58Jeanette Gaboardi wrote:
Regarding 3/4 sleeve bolero AC 013 pattern. My piece measures 24" instead of the 28 I told you in the previous inquiry. This is the width before binding off for the arm holes. Will these extra inches make the finished bolero larger all over? Do you think 24" will work for the size L? Thank you Jeanette Gaboardi
20.04.2016 - 17:16DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Gaboardi, the best way to be sure about the size would be to compare a similar garment she has and like the shape to the finished measurements (taken flat from side to side, and remember in cm) - see here. Happy knitting!
20.04.2016 - 17:44Jeanette Gaboardi wrote:
Regarding the pattern for the Bolero w/3/4 sleeve pattern AC-013, I am now at the stage where you bind off for armholes. My work, before starting the bind off, is 28" wide. For size L should this piece measure 36 " as shown in diagram? Does the diagram mean the shoulder seams are 36" apart? When do you use the chart? Thank you. Jeanette Gaboardi
20.04.2016 - 14:13DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Gaboardi, with a tension of 20 sts = 10 cm (see under tab "materials") you should get approx. 50 cm/20 inc with the 102 sts in size L before binding off for armholes - remember to check and keep correct gauge. Measurement in chart are in cm, convert here into inches. Happy knitting!
20.04.2016 - 16:11Jeanette Gaboardi wrote:
In regards to Bolero w/3/4 sleeve pattern AC-013. Back piece (binding off for armholes size L). Pattern reads bind off 3 sts O-2 times. Don't understand this. Does it mean bind off 3 sts at the beg of two rows or no sts for 2 rows for size L?
19.04.2016 - 14:46DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Gaboardi, each number refers to a size, in size L, bind off for armholes as follows - at the beg of every row on each side: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 3 times = 76 sts remain. Happy knitting!
19.04.2016 - 16:46Jessica wrote:
Thank you for the response but i'm still strugglinig with how I end up with 38 sts. If I cast on 18 and do 6 increases (one every row RS and WS) and then 8 increases (every other row) and then 12 increases (inc 1 stitch each side 6 times) this equals 44 instead of the 38 I need. Can you help me understand where I have too many sts? Thank you!
21.01.2013 - 23:17DROPS Design answered:
Dear Jessica, you will inc 12 sts towards mid front and only 6 sts towards the side (back piece are each side but front piece is only 1 side = towards seam to back), so 18 sts + 14 sts (6 every row + 8 every 2nd row) + 6 sts towards back piece = 38 sts. Happy knitting!
22.01.2013 - 09:48Jessica wrote:
I'm struggling with the front and am wondering if someone can help. It says on row 2 increase 1st towards frond mid every row. Is this only supposed to be on the front knit side of the garment or on both knit and purl sides? I am doing size M and struggling to understand how I end up with only 38 sts at end of increases. Right now I am casting on 18 +6 every row +8 inc every other + 12 (inc 1st each side 6 times) = 44. Can u help me understand where I have too many stitches?
19.01.2013 - 18:09DROPS Design answered:
Dear Jessica, there are 2 kinds of inc for front pieces : the first one every row (= from RS and from WS) towards mid front (to shape the round border) + the same inc as for back piece towards the side. Happy knitting !
21.01.2013 - 09:18Jessica wrote:
I'm struggling with the front and am wondering if someone can help. It says on row 2 increase 1st towards frond mid every row. Is this only supposed to be on the front knit side of the garment or on both knit and purl sides? I am doing size M and struggling to understand how I end up with only 38 sts at end of increases. Right now I am casting on 18 +6 every row +8 inc every other + 12 (inc 1st each side 6 times) = 44. Can u help me understand where I have too many stitches?
19.01.2013 - 18:08Jessica wrote:
I'm struggling with the front and am wondering if someone can help. It says on row 2 increase 1st towards frond mid every row. Is this only supposed to be on the front knit side of the garment or on both knit and purl sides? I am doing size M and struggling to understand how I end up with only 38 sts at end of increases. Right now I am casting on 18 +6 every row +8 inc every other + 12 (inc 1st each side 6 times) = 44. Can u help me understand where I have too many stitches?
19.01.2013 - 18:08Cobi Keus wrote:
Ik ben bezig met de rand langs de bolero, nu begrijp ik niet goed welke steken er tussen het patroon gebreid moet worden. Na de 12e nld moeten dan de steken afgekant worden? Heeft u een iets duidelijkere omschrijving?
14.12.2012 - 09:08DROPS Design answered:
U moet geen steken tussen het patroon breien, ALLEEN de st van de teltekening. Bijv maat S, heeft u 288 st op de nld. U herhaalt M.1 over alle st (16 st per herhaling = 18 herhalingen over de hele nld). Volgt u de teltekening en de beschrijving hiervoor, dan komen er eerst automatisch meerderingen (= omsl) en in nld 12 breit u st samen (zie beschrijving) Brei door volgens de teltekening.
15.12.2012 - 17:28Becky Brock wrote:
Thanks, the chart is upside down. It shows you starting with 30 sts.
20.11.2012 - 13:30