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Knitting tip-1: When working turns, twist the Fabel and Alpaca threads at bottom edge after every 4th row, in order the Alpaca thread follows the piece.
Knitting tip-2: Steam iron garment before use.
Turns: Work shortened rows with turns in mid piece to slightly A-shape the jacket. Beg at bottom edge and work towards neckline.
* Work all sts with Fabel, turn piece and work return row.
Work 103-108-112-115-119 sts with Fabel, turn piece and work return row. See Knitting-tip-1!
Work 89-94-97-99-103 sts with Fabel, turn piece and work return row.
Work 70-73-76-78-80 sts with Fabel, turn piece and work return row.
Work all sts with Alpaca, turn piece and work return row *.
Repeat from *-*.
Turns, neckline: Beg mid front (1st row = RS):
* Work row to MT-4, turn piece, K2 tog and work return row to MT-1, turn piece, K2 tog and work return row to MT-3, turn piece , K2 tog and work return row to MT-2, turn piece, K2 tog and work return row on all sts *, repeat from *-*.
Jacket is worked from side to side, beg mid front on left front piece, work towards sleeve, work sleeve, back piece, sleeve and then right front piece. Row is worked from bottom edge towards neckline and the entire jacket is worked in garter st, i.e. K all rows.
Left front piece:
Loosely cast on 115-120-125-129-134 sts on needle size 3.5 mm [US 4] with Alpaca. First row = RS (from bottom edge towards neckline). Work approx 3 cm [1 1/8’’] on all sts with Alpaca = front band (make sure next row is from RS). Remember the knitting gauge! Now continue with shortened rows and Turns – see explanation above. See Knitting tip-1! Continue like this until piece measures approx 23-25-27-30-33 cm [9”- 9¾”-10 5/8”-11¾”-13”] from casting on row (measured at bottom edge). At neckline piece measures approx 11-12-12½-14-15 cm [4 3/8”-4 ¾”-4 7/8”-5½”-6”] from casting on row. Now continue over the side piece with Alpaca as follows: work 1 cm [3/8’’] back and forth on 65-68-71-73-75 sts from bottom edge only. Insert a Marking Thread (MT) (= mid side). Work 1 cm [3/8’’] back and forth on the 65-68-71-73-75 sts again and now slip these sts on a stitch holder (to be used later for back piece). Now work the sleeve.
= 50-52-54-56-59 sts on needle. Loosely cast on 11 new sts over sts on stitch holder. Continue with Alpaca on the new sts only (= edge under the sleeve), at the same time cast on 15-14-14-13-13 sts 2 times and 17-17-15-15-12 sts 1 time on every other row towards bottom edge. At the same time when piece measures 2 cm [3/4’’] continue on all sts. Continue with Turns. After all new sts have been cast on there are 108 sts on needle. Continue until piece measures approx 22-24-24-25-26 cm [8 ¾”-9½”-9½”-9¾”-10¼”] (along bottom edge) measured from where the last new sts were cast on. Loosely bind off 17-17-15-15-12 sts from bottom edge and now bind off on every other row: 15-14-14-13-13 sts 2 times and 11 sts 1 time = 50-52-54-56-59 sts left on needle.
Slip the 65-68-71-73-75 sts from stitch holder back on needle = 115-120-125-129-134 sts. Continue with Turns. When piece measures approx 21-23-25-28-31 cm [8¼”-9”-9¾”-11”-12¼”] (measured along bottom edge) from MT at mid side, insert a new MT = mid back, (piece measures approx 28-31-33-35-37 cm [11”-12¼”-13”-13¾”-14½”] at neckline, measured from casting on row mid front).
Continue until piece measures approx 20-22-24-27-30 cm [8”-8¾”-9½”-10 5/8”-11¾”] (measured along bottom edge) from MT mid back. Now work side piece in Alpaca as follows: Work 1 cm [3/8’’] back and forth on 65-68-71-73-75 sts from bottom edge only. Insert a MT (= mid side). Work 1 cm [3/8’’] back and forth on the 65-68-71-73-75 sts again and now slip these sts on a stitch.
Like left sleeve.
Right front piece:
Slip the 65-68-71-73-75 sts from stitch holder back on needle = 115-120-125-129-134 sts. Continue with Turns as on back piece. When you have worked the same amount of rows on right front piece as on left front piece work front band as follows: Work approx 1.5 cm [½’’] on all sts with Alpaca. On next row from RS (from bottom edge) bind off for buttonholes as follows: Work 47-47-48-51-51 sts, bind off 1 st, * work 13-14-15-15-16 sts, bind off 1 st *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, work the remaining 11-12-12-13-14 sts. On next row cast on 1 new st over the bind off sts. Continue on all sts until front band measures approx 3 cm [1 1/8’’]. Bind off loosely.
Pick up 1 st in approx every other row along sleeve edge. Work garter st back and forth on all sts with Alpaca, at the same time adjust no of sts to 51-55-55-58-60 on first row. When cuff measures approx 15 cm [6’’] (or required length) bind off loosely.
Sew seam under sleeves, edge to edge with neat sts – seam will sit approx 1 cm [3/8’’] from centre of sleeve because of the edge under sleeve. Sew openings under sleeves (by side piece).
Worked in garter st. Beg mid front (from the RS). Pick up approx 120-170 sts round the neck (also over front bands each side) with Alpaca. K 1 row from WS. Insert 4 marking threads/markers (=MT) round neck as follows:
MT-1 and MT-4: each side after 19 sts from mid front.
MT-2 and MT-3: each side after 30 sts from mid front. These MT are to be used for working Turns.
Now also insert another 2 MT, 1 each side on back piece in transition between sleeve and back piece. These MT are to be used for dec.
Continue with Turns – see explanation above. At the same time, on every row from RS dec 1 st on each side of both MT on back piece (= 4 dec).
At the same time when neckline measures approx 1.5 cm [½’’] mid front bind off for 1 buttonhole in line with others on front band by binding off the 4th st from mid front. On next row cast on 1 new st in the same place. Continue with Turns and dec until neckline measures approx 4 cm [1½’’] (measured mid back).
Dec on back piece are now complete.
K 1 row from RS, at the same time dec 20 sts evenly between MT-2 and MT-3. K 1 row from WS. Continue with Turns as before. When neckline measures approx 6 cm [2 3/8’’] mid back K 1 row from RS, at the same time inc 25 sts evenly between MT-2 and MT-3. Continue with Turns until neckline measures 7 cm [2 3/4’’] (measured mid back). Bind off loosely.
Crochet border round jacket:
Crochet a border round jacket with crochet hook size 3.5 mm [E/4] and Alpaca as follows, beg at neck mid back, work round neck, down along front band, along bottom edge, up along front band and round neck to mid back: * 1 sc, 2 ch, skip approx 1 cm [3/8’’] *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in sc from beg of round. Note! Make sure border isn’t too tight.
Crochet border round sleeves:
Crochet a similar border round sleeve edges.
Sew on buttons. Also see Knitting tip-2!
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