DROPS Bomull-Lin
DROPS Bomull-Lin
53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 2.40 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 107-6
Size: S – M – L – XL – XXL – XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 34 3/8"-37"-41"–45 3/4"-49½"-54 1/4"
Hem: 65 1/4"- 73"- 77 3/4"– 81 3/4"- 88"- 92"
Full length: 30"- 31"- 32 1/4"- 33½"- 34 5/8"- 35 3/4"

Materials:DROPS Bomull-Lin from Garnstudio
500-550-600-650-700-800 g color no 03, off-white mix
and use: DROPS Cotton Viscose from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes, color no 17, light beige

DROPS pointed needles size 7 mm
[US 10 ½] - or size needed to obtain14 sts x 17 rows in stockinette st with 1 thread Bomull-Lin = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].

DROPS pointed needles size 5.5 mm
[US 9] - or size needed to obtain17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st with 1 thread Bomull-Lin = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].

DROPS mother-of-pearl button w/hole, no 522: 4-4-4-4-5-5 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Bomull-Lin
DROPS Bomull-Lin
53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 2.40 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Measuring tip: Because of the weight of the yarn, all measurements should be made whilst the garment is hanging, otherwise it will be too long when worn.

Garter st, back and forth on needle: K all rows.

Stripes:
Front and back piece:
When piece measures 12, 25, 28 and 32 cm [4 3/4’’-9 3/4’’-11’’and 12½’’] work 2 rows in 2 strands Cotton Viscose.
Sleeves:
When piece measures 13 and 17 cm [5 1/8’’ and 6 3/4’’] work 2 rows in 2 strands Cotton Viscose.

Decreasing tip-1: Make all dec from RS!
Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso

Decreasing tip-2 (applies to neckline): Make all dec from RS!
Dec as follows after 8 sts: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso
Dec as follows before 8 sts: K2 tog.

Buttonholes: Make buttonholes on right front band. 1 buttonhole = bind off 4th st from mid front and cast on 1 new st on return row.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
Size S: 33, 39, 46 and 54 cm [13’’-15 1/4’’-18’’ and 21 1/4’’].
Size M: 33, 40, 48 and 57 cm [13’’-15 3/4’’-19’’ and 22½’’].
Size L: 33, 41, 50 and 60 cm [13’’-16 1/8’’-19 3/4’’ and 23 5/8’’].
Size XL: 33, 42, 52 and 62 cm [13’’-16½’’-20½’’ and 24 3/8’’].
Size XXL: 34, 42, 50, 57 and 65 cm [13 3/8’’- 16½’’-19 3/4’’-22½’’ and 25½’’].
Size XXXL: 34, 44, 52, 60 and 68 cm [13 3/8’’-17 1/4’’-20½’’, 23 5/8 and 26 3/4’’].


Back piece: Loosely cast on 134-142-150-158-170-178 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 7 mm [US 10 ½] with 1 thread Bomull-Lin. Work 2 rows garter st – see above. Insert 3 markers (M) in piece as follows: M-1 after 34-36-38-40-43-45 sts, M-2 after 67-71-75-79-85-89 sts and M-3 after 100-106-112-118-127-133 sts. Continue in stockinette st, at the same time dec 1 st on each side of M-1 and M-3 on every other row a total of 39-39-41-41-43-43 times – see Decreasing tip-1. At the same time inc 1 st on each side of piece and each side of M-2 on every 4th row a total of 19-19-20-20-21-21 times = 54-62-66-74-82-90 sts. Remember the knitting gauge! Remember stripes – see above. Continue until piece measures 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm [15 3/4’’-16 1/8’’-16½’’-17’’-17 1/4’’-17 3/4’’] – measured where shortest, see Measuring tip! Dec and inc are now complete. Change to needle size 5.5 mm [US 9]. Work 12 rows garter st, at the same time inc 12-10-14-16-17-19 sts evenly on first row = 66-72-80-90-99-109 sts. Continue in stockinette st, at the same time inc 1 st each side on every 2.5-2.5-2.5-3-3-3 cm [7/8’’-7/8’’-7/8’’-1 1/8’’-1 1/8’’-1 1/8’’] a total of 5 times = 76-82-90-100-109-119 sts. When piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm [22’’-22 3/4’’-23 5/8’’-24 3/8’’-25 1/4’’-26’’] bind off 3 sts each side for armhole and dec to shape the armhole on every other: 2 sts 1-1-2-3-5-7 times and 1 st 1-3-4-6-6-6 times = 64-66-68-70-71-73 sts. When piece measures 72-75-78-81-84-87 cm [28 3/8’’-29½’’-30 3/4’’-32’’-33’’-34 1/4’’] work garter st on the middle 38-38-40-40-41-41 sts – work remaining sts as before. When piece measures 74-77-80-83-86-89 cm [29 1/8’’-30 3/8’’-31½’’-32 3/4’’-33 7/8’’-35’’] bind off the middle 20-20-22-22-23-23 sts for neck and dec 1 st on neckline on next row = 21-22-22-23-23-24 sts left on each shoulder. Continue with 8 garter sts towards neckline and bind off loosely when piece measures 76-79-82-85-88-91 cm [30"- 31"- 32 1/4"- 33½"- 34 5/8"- 35 3/4"].

Left front piece: Loosely cast on 75-79-83-87-93-97 sts (includes 1 edge st at side and 7 front band sts towards mid front) on needle size 7 mm [US 10 ½] with 1 thread Bomull-Lin. Insert 1 marker after 41-43-45-47-50-52 sts from mid front. Work 2 rows garter st and continue in stockinette st with 7 front band sts in garter st until finished measurements. At the same time dec 1 st on each side of marker on every other row a total of 39-39-41-41-43-43 times –see Decreasing tip-1. At the same time inc 1 st each side of piece (towards mid front inc inside 7 front band sts) on every 4th row a total of 19-19-20-20-21-21 times = 35-39-41-45-49-53 sts. Remember stripes! Continue until piece measures 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm [15 3/4’’-16 1/8’’-16½’’-17’’-17 1/4’’-17 3/4’’] – measured where shortest. Dec and inc are now complete. Change to needle size 5.5 mm [US 9] and work 12 rows garter st, at the same time inc 5-5-6-7-8-9 sts evenly on first row = 40-44-47-52-57-62 sts. Continue in stockinette st with 8 sts towards mid front in garter st. At the same time inc at side as described for back piece = 45-49-52-57-62-67 sts. When piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm [22’’-22 3/4’’-23 5/8’’-24 3/8’’-25 1/4’’-26’’] dec for armhole at side as described for back piece. At the same time when piece measures 56-59-62-64-67-70 cm [22’’-23 1/4’’-24 3/8’’-25 1/4’’-26 3/8’’-27½’’] work 2 rows garter st on the 8 front band sts only. Continue on all sts and now dec to shape the neckline on every other row – see Decreasing tip-2: 1 st a total of 18-19-19-19-20-20 times. After all dec are complete there are 21-22-22-23-23-24 sts left on shoulder. Bind off loosely when piece measures 76-79-82-85-88-91 cm [30"- 31"- 32 1/4"- 33½"- 34 5/8"- 35 3/4"].

Right front piece: Cast on and work like left front piece, but mirrored. Remember buttonholes!

Sleeve: Cast on 36-38-40-42-44-46 sts on needle size 7 mm [US 10 ½] with 1 thread Bomull-Lin. Work 10 rows garter st and continue in stockinette st, at the same time inc 16 sts evenly on first row = 52-54-56-58-60-62 sts. When piece measures 10 cm [4’’] inc 1 st each side on every 3.5-2.5-2-1.5-1-1 cm [1 1/4’’-7/8’’-3/4’’-½’’-3/8’’-3/8’’] a total of 5-6-7-9-10-11 times = 62-66-70-76-80-84 sts. At the same time work stripes – see above. When piece measures 28-27-26-26-24-23 cm [11’’-10 5/8’’-10 1/4’’-10 1/4’’-9½’’-9’’] (less on the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder) dec to shape the sleeve cap each side on every other row: 2 sts 3 times, 1 st 0-2-3-4-5-7 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 34-35-35-36-36-37 cm [13 3/8’’-13 3/4’’-13 3/4’’-14 1/4’’-14 1/4’’-14½’’]. Now bind off 3 sts each side 1 time and bind off remaining sts on next row. Sleeve measures approx 35-36-36-37-37-38 cm [13 3/4’’-14 1/4’’-14 1/4’’-14½’’-14½’’-15’’].

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Set in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 23.04.2008
Back piece:...
Change to needle size 5.5 mm [US 9]. Work 12 rows garter st, at the same time inc 12-10-14-16-17-19 sts evenly on first row = 66-72-80-90-99-109 sts.

Left front piece:.....
At the same time when piece measures 56-59-62-64-67-70 cm [22’’-23 1/4’’-24 3/8’’-25 1/4’’-26 3/8’’-27½’’] work 2 rows garter st on the 8 front band sts only.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (51)

country flag Ruth Norman wrote:

Thank you for your previous reply re fabel yarn however I do not like to wear garments made of thick or chunky yarn could I knit a larger size with smaller needles and get a successful outcome?

13.01.2023 - 14:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Norman, you might then have to check our patterns designed for smaller needles, see for example all jackets worked with a tension of 25-23 stitches here - feel free to edit or add more filters. Happy knitting!

13.01.2023 - 15:22

country flag Ruth Norman wrote:

Can drops fabel yarn be used for this pattern

12.01.2023 - 19:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Ruth, Drops Fabel is a yarn from group A. The 2 yarns suggested for this pattern are from yarn group C. Our yarns are spun to standard thickness and 2 strands of a yarn from group A is equivalent to 1 strand from group C. So yes, you can work this pattern with Drops Fabel, using 2 strands throughout the garment. Happy knitting!

13.01.2023 - 07:53

country flag Klara wrote:

I'm using needle nr 6, and it is going to be at least 48 cm when it's time to change to needles 5,5 (probably 5). It's mathematically impossible to get to this point with 42 cm. I'm doing the L size. Not funny when the pattern doesn't work. Gladly I know how to repair it. It's beautiful if it fits well.

09.08.2019 - 20:06

country flag Wil wrote:

Wie weet met hoeveel steken de onderste streep heeft.ik wil die als begin gebruiken,omdat ik veel korter ben. zie ook die mevrouw van 155cm.wie heeft deze al gemaakt? wilt u mij het stekenaantal geven van de eerste streep.voorpand en achterpand.dank u.

08.08.2017 - 22:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Wil, Hoeveel steken er in de eerste streep zitten, kan ik zo niet zeggen. Dit hangt namelijk ook af van je de maat die je breit en de stekenverhouding die je hebt. Om uit te rekenen met hoeveel steken je moet beginnen om op een kortere lengte uit te komen, moet je uitrekenen hoeveel meerderingen en minderingen er gemaakt zijn op het stuk dat je zeg maar over wilt slaan en deze meerderingen/minderingen moet je verrekenen.

15.08.2017 - 17:42

country flag Patricia wrote:

Mooi model moet het zo los gebreid worden

26.05.2012 - 21:30

DROPS Design answered:

Ja, dat klopt. De stekenverhouding voor dit model is 14st x 17 nld voor de onderkant van het vest en 17st x 22nld voor de bovenkant van het vest.

29.05.2012 - 14:55

country flag DROPS Deutsch wrote:

Ja, richtig.

05.12.2011 - 10:28

country flag Ute wrote:

Frage zur Anleitung 107-6 ich komme mit der Anleitung nicht klar. verstehe ich das richtig 1. reihe bei 1. und 3. Markierungsfaden jeweils davor und danach 1 Mache abnehmen- 1. Reihe linkes 3. Reihe am Angang 1 M aufnehemen, bei dem 2. Markierungsfaden vor und danach 1 zunehmen und am Ende der Reihe eine zunehmen ?

05.12.2011 - 09:12

country flag DROPS Design wrote:

You are right. It is corrected now. Thank you.

17.04.2009 - 21:27

country flag Anne wrote:

When the change to 5.5mm needles takes place on the fronts the pattern says to knit 12 rows in garter stitch. This does not correspond to the back where only 6 rows garter stitch are required. I assume this is an error.

17.04.2009 - 21:18

country flag DROPS Design wrote:

Yes, the stripes are in 2 strands, and this is added to the pattern. The length is measured at the shortest, and because of the inc and dec, the garment will get long at some points where you'll see the full length of the 79 rows.

16.04.2009 - 17:38