DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 103-23
Size: S – M – L – XL - XXL
Hip measures: 88/92- 96/100- 104/108- 112/116- 120/124 cm [34”/36”- 37”/39”- 41”/42”- 47”/49”]
Length of inner leg: 78–79–80–81-82 cm [30 ¾”-31”-31½”-32”-32 ¼”]

Materials:DROPS Fabel from Garnstudio
250-250-300-300-350 g col. No. 672, wine- red
and use: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
250-300-300-350-350 g col. No. 506, charcoal gray.

DROPS circular needle (80 + 40 cm [31½” + 15 3/4’’]) and double pointed needles size 4 mm [US 6] – or the size needed to obtain the correct knitting gauge

Categories:
Women Trousers & Shorts
Keywords:
rib top down

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Knitting gauge: 19 sts x 25 rows with 1 thread of each quality knitted in stockinette sts on needles size 4 mm [US 6] = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].

Decreasing tip (apply for the legs): dec each side of the MT (marking thread).
Dec as follows before the MT: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after the MT: Slip a st as if to K, K1, psso.

Increasing tip: Size S, L og XXL: Inc. each side of 3 K sts mid front and mid back.
Sie M and XL: Inc. each side of 2 K sts mid front and mid back.
Inc. sts as follows: Pick up 1 st from previous round. K st.
________________________________________


TIGHTS
Knit round on circular needles from the top and down. Cast on 140-154-168-182-196 sts on circular needles size 4 mm [US 6] with 1 thread of each quality.
Knit in Rib for 10 cm [4’’] as follows:
Size S, L and XXL: P3 – insert 1 MT in the first st = mid back, *K2, P5*, repeat from *-* and finish with P2 – insert 1 MT in the 71-85-99 sts on round (middle of 5 P sts) = mid front.
Size M and XL: Insert 1 MT at beg. of round = mid back, K1, *P5, K2*, repeat from *-*, finish with P5 and K1 – insert 1 MT after 77-91 sts (in the middle of 2 K sts) = mid front.
Continue as follows: 19-22-26-29-33 sts of stockinette sts, 33 sts of Rib as before, 37-44-51-58-65 sts of stockinette sts, 33 sts of Rib as before and 18-22-25-29-32 sts of stockinette sts.
When the piece measures 11 cm [4 3/8’’] knit the trousers so they will become longer at the back than on the front.
This is done as follows:
Knit 10 sts past the MT at the back, turn and knit back as follows: slip the first st (to avoid a hole) and knit 10 sts past the other side of the MT, turn *slip the first st, past the MT and knit 10 sts more than previous turn*, repeat from *-* until 20-14-28-22-16 left mid front. Turn a last time so the work begins from the RS. Continue to knit over all sts. When the piece measures 13-14-14-15-15 cm [5 1/8”-5½”-5½”-6”-6”] mid front (approx 18-20-20-21-22 cm [7”-8”-8”-8¼”-8¾”] mid back) inc. at the front and at the back – see inc. tip above: Inc. 2 sts at the front and at the back on every 5-5-6-6-7 round a total of 7 times = 168-182-196-210-224 sts.
When the piece measures 27-29-31-33-35 cm [10 5/8”-11 3/8”-12¼”-13”-13¾”] mid front bind off the first 6-6-7-7-8 sts, put 73-79-85-91-97 sts on a thread or a stitch holder (= 1 leg). Leave the following 11-12-13-14-15 sts on the needle (gusset), put the next 73-79-85-91-97 sts on a thread or a stitch holder (= 1 leg) and bind off the remaining 5-6-6-7-7 sts. Then knit 9 cm [3½’’] of stockinette sts over the 11-12-13-14-15 sts for the gusset. Bind off and sew the gusset tight to the 11-12-13-14-15 sts bind off mid back.

Leg: Put 73-79-85-91-97 sts from one of the threads or stitch holders onto a short circular needle (40 cm [15 3/4’’] long), and in addition pick up 18-20-20-22-24 sts along one side of the gusset = 91-99-105-113-121 sts. Continue with Rib over the 33 sts at the side and stockinette sts over the remaining 58-66-72-80-88 sts. Insert 1 MT at the inner side of the leg (in the sts picked up along the gusset). When the leg measures 8 cm [3 1/8’’] dec. 1 st each side of the MT - see decreasing tip above: Dec on every 4-3.5-3-2.5-2.5 cm [1½”-1¼”-1 1/8”-7/8”-7/8”] a total of 17-20-22-25-28 times = 57-59-61-63-65 sts – change to double pointed needles when there are to few sts for the circular needle. Continue to knit until the leg measures approx 78-79- 80-81-82 cm [30¾”-31”-31½”-32”-3¼”] – Try the trousers for the right length.
Bind off with K over K and P over P. Put the sts from the other thread or stitch holder on the 4 mm [US 6] circular needle and knit another leg.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (86)

country flag MM wrote:

Hi, I’m noticing that the 2 types of yarns for the pattern are ‘incompatible’..in term of wash-ability. Would this finished piece be washable?

26.02.2024 - 02:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear MM, sure but you have to follow the instructions of Alpaca, ie the piece cannot be washed in the machine as Alpaca is not super wash. Happy knitting!

26.02.2024 - 09:55

country flag Anna wrote:

Hei! Ohje Drops 103-23 villahousut. Takakorotuksen tekeminen: neulo 10 s. keskitakan ohi (tarkoitetaanko että kierroksen 1.silmukka on 1. ja 9 seuraava myös kudotaan?) entä mitä tarkoitetaan kun neuvotaan kutomaan toisen sivun merkkilangan ohitse (tarkoitetaanko sillä keskiedun merkkilanhan ohitse 10 s)? Kun jätän nostamatta 1.s niin silti työhön jää reikä...

07.05.2023 - 21:53

country flag Veronica Volle wrote:

Jeg har kommet til vendepinnene. Skal jeg telle med den første masken på omg? Altså den midterste masken bak? Eller skal jeg hoppe over den i tellingen slik at det blir 10 m - midtmaske - 10 m ?

13.01.2023 - 17:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Veronica. Tell med 1. maske på omgangen. mvh DROPS Design

16.01.2023 - 11:08

country flag Thalia wrote:

Hi there! I'd like to ask if the elevation for the back is done in pattern 19-22-26-29-33 sts of stockinette sts, 33 sts of Rib as before, 37-44-51-58-65 sts of stockinette sts, 33 sts of Rib as before and 18-22-25-29-32 sts of stockinette sts, or I just knit on right side and purl on wrong side. Thanks a lot!

11.12.2022 - 16:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Thalia, work simply in stocking stitch for the elevation in the back. Happy knitting!

12.12.2022 - 00:00

country flag Ulrike wrote:

Hallo, wenn ich für Größe L mit 168 Maschen beginne und mit einem Rapport von 2 re. und 5 li. arbeite, mit 3 li. am Anfang und 2 li. am Ende, bleiben 2 Maschen übrig. Oder mache ich irgendwo einen Fehler? Danke für Antwort!

19.10.2022 - 20:54

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ulrike, so stricken Sie die 168 Maschen: 3 li, *2 re, 5 li*, von *-* insgesamt 23 Mal stricken, (es sind noch 4 M übrig), 2 re, 2 li = 3 + (7x23) + 2+2=168 M. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.10.2022 - 10:00

country flag Sofia wrote:

Tänkte sticka dessa i novitas sju bröder, som står att det är garngrupp B. Tror ni det går bra, tänkte eftersom det är dubbelt garn i detta mönster?

06.10.2022 - 22:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Sofia, det garn kender vi ikke til. Vi anbefaler DROPS Fabel sammen med DROPS Alpaca for at få både stil og størrelse ifølge billede og opskrift :)

07.10.2022 - 09:32

country flag Sybille wrote:

Bei dem Stück, wo immer 10 Maschen mehr gestrickt werden, damit die Hose hinten höher wird als vorn, sind Löcher entstanden. Sie sind dort, wo jeweils gewendet wurde. Was habe ich hier denn falsch gemacht?

29.05.2022 - 16:29

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sybille, wenn Sie die nächste Runde über alle Maschen stricken, dann können Sie den Faden zwischen 2 verkürzten Reihen auffassen, und diesen Faden verschränkt mit der nächsten Masche stricken - wie bei diesem Video (Timecode 4:00 z.B.) gezeigt wird. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

30.05.2022 - 08:08

country flag Sybille wrote:

Wie verhält sich die Wolle/das Material nach dem Waschen? Ist die Hose dann noch genauso in Form?

21.04.2022 - 12:04

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sybille, ja sicher, folgen Sie einfach die Pfelgehinweise - beachten Sie nur, daß Alpaca nicht Superwash (wie Fabel) ist, dh die Hose soll dann gewaschen werden, wie unter Alpaca beschrieben wird. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.04.2022 - 13:29

country flag Katrine wrote:

Hei! Er det slik at de to garnene i ullbuksrmønsteret skal strikkes samtidig på pinne nr 4?

10.02.2022 - 22:04

country flag Ingunn Kjørholt Wolline wrote:

See previous post, answer was not helpful. I have tried binding of according to the pattern, but the finish looks sloppy with 2/3 of the leg being stockinette stitch which will naturally roll up. Would have been nice to see in the pictures how it is supposed to look. Any suggestions, other than rib finish?

03.02.2022 - 22:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Kjørholt Wolline, sorry that the previous answer didn't help, the tights on the pictures have been worked/cast off as explained, ie with stitches in stocking stitch and rib as worked before. Make sure to avoid casting off too loosely to avoid a wavy edge and not too tight neither. You can then block bottom of tights/legs if necessary. Some knitters have worked ribbing edge at the bottom of leg, you can see their projects on Ravelry - if it can help. Happy knitting!

04.02.2022 - 09:00