DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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DROPS 101-22
Size: S – M – L – XL – XXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 86-94-102-114-126 cm / 34"-37"-40"-45"-49½"
Full length: 62-64-66-68-70 cm / 24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''

Materials: DROPS Muskat from Garnstudio
500-550-600-650-700 g color no 18, white

DROPS pointed needle and circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 or size needed to obtain the correct knitting gauge

DROPS silver button no 534, 5 pcs

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Knitting gauge: 20 sts x 26 rows on needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 in stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''

Garter st, back and forth on needle: Knit all rows

Pattern: See diagram M.1-M.3. The diagram is showing every row in pattern seen from the right side.

Buttonholes: Make buttonholes on right front band.
1 buttonhole: K tog 3rd and 4th st from edge and make a yo.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
Size S: 2, 9, 16, 23 and 30 cm / 3/4",3½",6 1/4",9" and 11 3/4"
Size M: 3, 10, 17, 24 and 31 cm / 1 1/8",4",6 3/4",9½" and 12 1/4"
Size L: 4, 11, 18, 25 and 32 cm / 1½",4 3/8",7",9 3/4" and 12½"
Size XL: 5, 12, 19, 26 and 33 cm / 2",4 3/4",7½",10 1/4" and 13"
Size XXL: 6, 13, 20, 27 and 34 cm / 2 3/8",5 1/8",8",10 5/8" and 13 3/8"
___________________________________________________________

Back and front piece:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 205-223-241-259-283 sts (includes 5 front band sts each side towards mid front, knitted in garter sts throughout) on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7.
Work first row as follows (from WS): 5 front band sts in garter sts, *P3, K3*, repeat from *-* and finish with P3 and 5 front band sts in garter.
Work 2 more rows like this and then continue with 1 vertical repeat of diagram M.2 - remember buttonholes on right front band - see explanation above.
After M.2 continue in reverse stockinette sts until piece measures 13 cm / 5 1/8'', at the same time on the last row dec evenly to 181-197-213-237-261 sts (do not dec over front band sts).
K4 rows garter sts and continue in diagram M.1 with front band sts in garter sts.
When piece measures 33 cm / 13'' work M.2, at the same time adjust no of sts to 181-199-214-238-262 on the first row.
On the last row of M.2 inc 1 st mid back = 182-200-215-239-263 sts.
After M.2 finish piece in M.3 as follows: 5 front band sts, M.3 A (= 3 sts), M.3 B until 9 sts left on row, M.3 C (= 4 sts) and 5 front band sts.
When piece measures 44-45-46-47-48 cm / 17 1/4"-17 3/4"-18"-18½"-19" work next row as follows: 46-50-53-58-63 sts (= front piece), bind off 2-4-6-8-10 sts for armhole, 86-92-97-107-117 sts (= back piece), bind off 2-4-6-8-10 sts for armhole, 46-50-53-58-63 sts (= front piece). Now complete each piece separately.

Back piece:
= 86-92-97-107-117 sts. Continue in M.3 with 1 garter st each side - make sure to continue the pattern, work sts not fitting into pattern at the sides in stockinette sts.
When piece measures 3-4-5-6-7 cm / 1 1/8"-1½"-2"-2 3/8"-2 3/4" from the split for the armhole inc 1 st inside 1 garter st each side for wide shoulder.
Inc 1 st in the 4 smaller sizes (no inc in size XXL) on every 2-3-4-5 cm / 3/4"-1 1/8"-1½"-2" a further 5-4-3-1 times = 98-102-105-111-119 sts (work inc sts in stockinette st until they fit into pattern).
When piece measures 60-62-64-66-68 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾'' bind off the middle 20-20-21-21-21 sts for neck = 39-41-42-45-49 sts left on each shoulder.
Finish each side separately and continue in pattern – stockinette st sts not fitting into pattern at neckline.
Bind off remaining sts when piece measures 62-64-66-68-70 cm / 24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''.

Right front piece:
= 46-50-53-58-63 sts. Inc for wide shoulder as described for back piece = 52-55-57-60-64 sts. Note! No dec for neck.
When piece measures 62-64-66-68-70 cm / 24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½'' bind off the outermost 39-41-42-45-49 sts on shoulder = 13-14-15-15-15 sts left.
Work 5-5-6-6-6 cm / 2"-2"-2½"-2½"-2½" as before over these sts (= neckline to be sewn to back piece afterwards, to be stretched slightly so do not work further then indicated). Put sts on a holder.

Left front piece:
Like right front piece, but mirrored.

Sleeve:
Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 50-50-50-56-56 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4.5 mm / US 7. Work first row as follows from WS: 1 edge st, *K3, P3*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 edge st.
Work 2 more rows like this and then continue with 1 vertical repeat of M.2, at the same time on the first row dec evenly to 47-50-50-53-53 sts.
Now K 1 row from RS and then continue in reverse stockinette sts.
At the same time when sleeve measures 10 cm / 4'' inc 1 st each side, repeat on every 2.5-2.5-2-2-2 cm / 7/8"-7/8"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4" a total of 13-14-17-16-16 times = 73-78-84-85-85 sts.
When piece measures 43-43-43-42-41 cm / 17"-17"-17"-16½"-16" work 1 vertical repeat of M.2, at the same time on the first row adjust no of sts to 74-77-83-86-89.
Bind off after M.2, sleeve measures approx 48-48-48-47-46 cm / 19"-19"-19"-18½"-18".

Assembly:
Sew shoulder seams. Sew collar tog mid back (sts from holders) with grafting sts and sew collar to back piece.
Sew sleeve seams and sew sleeves to front and back piece.
Sew on buttons.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = K3, lift the first K st over the other 2
symbols = make 2 yo, P 1 yo and drop the other on the return row (to make the hole bigger)
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (27)

country flag Sandy wrote:

Is the first row the outside (right side of cardigan) so I know where to place the button hole?

02.10.2019 - 18:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Sandy, The first row is the wrong side. Happy knitting!

03.10.2019 - 07:40

country flag Renee wrote:

Is row one considered the wrong side or right side of the cardigan? Thank you

02.10.2019 - 14:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Renee, the very first row worked on body is worked from WS: Knit first row as follows (from WS): 5 front band sts in garter sts, *P3, K3*, repeat from *-* and finish with P3 and 5 front band sts. Happy knitting!

02.10.2019 - 14:41

country flag Margit wrote:

Hallo, ich habe diese Jacke genau nach Anleitung gestrickt. Auch die Maschenprobe hat gestimmt. Leider ist die Jacke nun doch viiiiiel zu groß geworden. Beim Waschen bei 40 Grad hat sich an der Größe nichts geändert. Meine Frage: Kann ich die Jacke bei einer höheren Temperatur 60 Grad oder höher waschen. Besteht da die Chance, dass sie entsprechend eingeht? Vielen Dank im Voraus mit freundlichen Grüßen aus Norwegen Margit Lämmlein

02.08.2019 - 17:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Margit, haben Sie auch beim stricken dieselbe Maschenprobe behalten? Nehmen Sie bitte Kontakt mit Ihrem DROPS laden auf, sicher können Sie Ihnen weiterhelfen - auch telefonisch oder per E-mail. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.08.2019 - 16:32

country flag Monika Franaschitz wrote:

Sinorel

07.04.2019 - 10:05

country flag Marleen Spijkerman wrote:

Ik ben met dit patroon bezig in maat M en kom tot de ontdekking dat ik na de 13 cm tricotsteek moet minderen naar 197 steken. zover zo goed dan moet ik 4 naalden ribbelsteek en dan beginnen met patroon M1.. dit patroon beslaat 8 steken en moet herhaald worden. Echter is dit onmogelijk want ik kan 197 - 10 steken voorbies = 187 steken niet delen door 8 zodat ik het gaatjes patroon niet boven elkaar krijg.

14.01.2017 - 20:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Marleen. Je breit als volgt: 5 voorbiessteken, herhaal M.1 23 keer = 184 st breien, je hebt dan nog 3 st, brei de eerste 3 st weer van M.1 (dan is je patroon ook gelijk aan beide voorpanden) en eindig met 5 voorbiessteken.

19.01.2017 - 14:27

country flag Sabine Jungmann wrote:

Leider komm ich mit der angabe für den kragen auch nicht klar. die 15M die nach 62cm übrigbleiben beim vorderteil sind schulter? und vorne hab ich dann einen geraden ausschnitt und beim rückenteil bleibt mir viel mehr "schulter" übrig da nur die mittleren 21M abgekettet werden??? bitte um hilfe...

09.07.2016 - 23:29

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sabine, die (je nach Grösse) 13-14-15-15-15 M sind die Kragenmaschen, die weiter gestrickt werden, wenn bereits für die Schulter abgekettet wurde.

11.07.2016 - 16:47

country flag Nancy Goldberg wrote:

Using cotton/acrylic. Does this pattern have any ease in it. I am between 2 sizes. Also, can I do 1yo instead of I don't want the holes so wide at the chest v section? Thank you

18.06.2016 - 05:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Goldberg, you will find a measurement chart at the bottom of the pattern, with all measurements for each size in cm, taken flat from side to side. Compare these to find out the matching size - read more here. Measurements for each size have been made in pattern as charted, make sure your swatch will match before altering the pattern - for any further personnal assistance you can also request help from the store where you bought your yarn. Happy knitting!

20.06.2016 - 08:42

country flag Nancy Goldberg wrote:

Is there a video tutorial for this pattern ?

23.01.2016 - 05:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Goldberg, there are no specific videos to the diagrams yet, you will find videos showing how to work most of the techniques used here under tab "videos". Happy knitting!

25.01.2016 - 10:53

country flag Nancy Goldberg wrote:

I bought my yarn on line from Nordicmart. Where do I go for questions. Would love to videos that match this pattern for charts M.1 M.2 and M.3. Want to start pattern but want to make sure that chart is read from right side so row 1 reads right to left and row 2 would read left to right?

23.01.2016 - 05:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Goldberg, that's correct - read more about diagrams here. Happy knitting!

25.01.2016 - 10:50

country flag Ulla wrote:

Ich verstehe das mit dem Kragen nicht! :-(

03.09.2015 - 18:10

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ulla, bitte präzisieren Sie, was genau Sie beim Kragen nicht verstehen, damit wir Ihnen weiterhelfen können.

08.09.2015 - 11:03