DROPS Bomull-Lin
DROPS Bomull-Lin
53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 2.40 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Calamity Jane

DROPS long vest knitted in garter sts with ”Bomull-Lin” and buttons in ”Cotton Viscose”

DROPS 100-27
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-96-106-118-130-140 cm / 34½"-37 3/4"-41 3/4"-46½"-51½"-55"
Full length: 74-76-78-80-82-84 cm / 29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33''

Materials: DROPS Bomull-Lin from Garnstudio
350-350-400-450-500-550 g color no 03, off white mix
And use: DROPS Cotton Viscose from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes, color no 17, light beige

DROPS needle size 6 mm / US 10 – or the needle size needed to obtain correct knitting gauge.
DROPS crochet hook size 3 mm / C – for button cover.
3 buttons – approx 2 cm / 3/4'' in diameter.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Bomull-Lin
DROPS Bomull-Lin
53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 2.40 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Knitting gauge: 16 sts x 20 rows stockinette sts with Bomull-Lin = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Garter st back and forth: Knit all rows

Tips for decrease (applies to armhole and neckline):
Knit all dec on RS.
Dec as follows after 4 sts garter st: Slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso.
Dec as follows after 4 sts garter st: K2 tog.

Button hole: bind off for buttonhole on right front edge: 1 button hole = bind off 3rd and 4th st from mid front. On next row cast on 2 new sts over bind off sts.
Bind off for button hole when piece measures:
Size S: 38, 46 and 54 cm / 15",18",21 1/4"
Size M: 40, 48 and 56 cm / 15 3/4",19",22''
Size L: 41, 49 and 57 cm / 16 1/8",19 1/4",22½''
Size XL: 43, 51 and 59 cm / 17",20",23 1/4"
Size XXL: 45, 53 and 61 cm / 17 3/4",21",24"
Size XXXL: 47, 55 and 63 cm / 18½",21 5/8",24 3/4"

Back piece:
Cast on 88-95-103-112-122-130 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on needle size 6 mm / US 10 with Bomull-Lin. Knit 4 rows garter sts – see explanation above, continue in stockinette sts. When piece measures 5 cm / 2'' bind off 1 st each side, repeat on every 4.5-4.5-4.5-5-5-5 cm / 1 3/4"-1 3/4"-1 3/4"-2"-2"-2" a total of 8 times = 72-79-87-96-106-114 sts.
When piece measures 49-50-51-52-53-54 cm / 19¼''-19¾''-20''-20½''-21''-21¼'' knit 2 rows garter sts on outermost 7-9-10-12-13-15 sts each side (stockinette st remaining sts). On next row bind off outermost 3-5-6-8-9-11 sts off each side for armhole.
Then dec 1 sts for armhole on every other row – read Tips for decrease: 2-3-5-6-9-10 times = 62-63-65-68-70-72 sts.
Continue in stockinette st with 4 sts in garter sts each side.
When piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm / 27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½ knit 4 rows garter sts over middle 38-39-41-44-44-44 sts (work remaining sts like before). Then bind off middle 30-31-33-36-36-36 sts for neck = 16-16-16-16-17-18 sts left on each shoulder. Continue to knit with 4 garter sts each side of neckline and 4 garter sts at the side. Bind off when piece measures 74-76-78-80-82-84 cm / 29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33''.

Right front piece:
Cast on 48-52-56-60-65-69 sts (incl 1 edge st on side edge and 8 front band sts) on needle size 6 mm / US 10 with Bomull-Lin. Knit 4 rows garter sts.
Continue in stockinette sts but knit the 8 front band sts in garter sts until completion. Bind off for button holes – see explanation above.
When piece measures 5 cm / 2'' bind off on side as for back piece = 40-44-48-52-57-61 sts.
When piece measures 49-50-51-52-53-54 cm / 19¼''-19¾''-20''-20½''-21''-21¼'' knit 2 rows garter sts on outermost 7-9-10-12-13-15 sts on side (work remaining sts in stockinette st – knit front edge in garter sts).
Then bind off for armhole as back piece.
Continue in stockinette sts but knit the 4 sts each side and front edge in garter sts.
At the same time when piece measures 55-57-58-60-62-64 cm / 21 5/8"-22½"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4" knit 2 rows garter sts over 14 sts towards front edge (work remaining sts in stockinette sts – knit 4 sts on side in garter sts ).
Bind off 10 sts on next row from front edge and then continue to dec 1 st at neckline on every other row – read Tips for decrease: 9-10-11-12-12-12 times = 16-16-16-16-17-18 sts left on shoulder.
Bind off when piece measures 74-76-78-80-82-84 cm / 29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33''.

Left front piece:
Cast on and work as right but reversed.

Assembly:
Sew shoulder seams. Sew side seams within 1 edge st.

Button cover:
Crochet 3 button covers on crochet hook size 3 mm / C with Cotton Viscose as follows: Ch 2, then crochet 6 sc in the first ch, complete with 1 sl st in first sc of round (= 1st round.).
2nd round: Crochet 2 sc in each sc = 12 sc.
3rd round: * crochet 1 sc in 1st sc, crochet 1 sc in 2nd sc, crochet 2 sc in 3rd sc *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc of round = 16 sc.
4th, 5th and 6th round: Crochet 1 sc in each sc.
7 th round: Crochet 1 sc in every other sc = 8 sc. Finish off with 1 sl st in 1st sc on round.
Put buttons inside cover, sew around edge and pull tog.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (17)

country flag Kim Hanson wrote:

Where are the instructions for what length to have the button holes? I understand how to make the buttonholes but not sure many inches i knit before i make the first, second and third buttonhole

05.10.2023 - 19:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Kim, The measurements for working the buttonholes are at the top of the pattern, under Buttonholes. Happy knitting!

06.10.2023 - 06:40

country flag Regina Hapka wrote:

Ich habe folgendes Problem: egal ob ich ein Bündchen mit 1 M re/1 M li, 2 M re/2 M li oder wie in dieser Strickanleitung kraus re. stricke, immer schlägt bei mir das Bündchen nach außen um. Was mache ich verkehrt?

04.10.2021 - 17:02

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Hapka, Sie können die Jacke/den Pullover mit Stecknadeln auf einer geeigneten Unterlage spannen, anfeuchten (z.B. mit einer Sprühflasche für Blumen) und trocknen lassen, danach entfernen Sie die Stecknadeln, dann sollte sich der Rand nicht mehr rollen/umschlagen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

05.10.2021 - 06:56

country flag Sandra Zinn wrote:

Would like to make this pattern in a fingering weight wool. After obtaining guage to you think it would look ok.

09.03.2018 - 17:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Zinn, this pattern is worked with a sport yarn (Cotton Viscose) and a worsted yarn (Bomull-Lin) worked together. For any help adjusting in any other kind of yarn please contact the yarn where you bought your yarn. Happy knitting!

12.03.2018 - 07:59

country flag "Hanneke" wrote:

Ik begrijp de tip voor het afkanten bij de mouwsgaten niet? Wordt bedoeld na of voor 4 steken, of na of voor 4 naalden ribbelsteek? Is het optioneel, kan ik op mijn eigen manier afkanten?

29.12.2017 - 12:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Hanneke, De tip geeft aan op welke manier je afkant, zodat je een mooi stekenbeeld geeft. In de beschrijving staat hoe vaak en om de hoeveel naalden je moet meerderen. Omdat je zowel bij het linker armsgat als bij het rechter armsgat afkant moet je soms voor en soms na de ribbelsteken afkanten (dus in spiegelbeeld zeg maar). Als je het patroon volgt en precies doet wat er staat wijst het zichzelf wel.

29.12.2017 - 19:47

country flag Pamela Waggoner wrote:

I am knitting pattern 100-27. I am having a hard time trying to figure out the back piece. I am at the part where I have knitted 4 rows garter stitch and now I am ready to bind off 33 stitches for neck. What I'm not understanding is how I proceed with the neck and shoulders. I will have 16 stitches on each side. How do I knit from one shoulder side to the other side due to the bind off stitches in the middle.

02.05.2017 - 02:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Waggoner, when you have bound off the 33 sts for neck, continue each shoulder separately until piece measures 78 cm, ie work first one shoulder (leave sts on 2nd shoulder unworked), and when 1st shoulder is bound off, work sts on 2nd shoulder (join the yarn again and work as first shoulder). Happy knitting!

02.05.2017 - 13:19

country flag Tanja Parkkima wrote:

Pitääkö kädentien 11 silmukan päättämisen jälkeen tehdä vielä kavennuksia työn vasemmassa reunassa? Tätä en ohjeesta löydä. Ohjeessa kehoitetaan jatkamaan sileää neuletta aina 64cm asti, jolloin tulee etureunan uloimpien 10 silmukan päättäminen. Sitä seuraa viimeisten 12 silmukoiden päättämiset.

24.10.2014 - 09:29

DROPS Design answered:

Kun olet päättänyt ensimmäiset 11 s kädentietä varten, teet vielä kädentien kavennukset kuten takana, eli kavennat 10 x 1 s.

27.10.2014 - 16:17

country flag Tanja wrote:

XXXL- kokoa tehdessäni minulla on oikeassa etukappaleessa kaikkien viimeisten kavennusten jälkeen puikolla yhteensä 28s ohjeessa mainitun 18s sijaan. Missä pitäisi vielä kaventaa ylimääräisten 10 silmukan verran?

20.10.2014 - 16:39

DROPS Design answered:

Tarkistin ohjeen luvut ja ne ovat oikeat. Olethan tehnyt kädentien kavennukset? Kädentien kavennusten jälkeen, työssä on jäljellä 40 s. Päätät vielä pääntietä varten 10 + 12 s = 18 s.

23.10.2014 - 17:19

country flag Rachel Bowden wrote:

Pattern described as garter stitch, but isn't that just the edges. Rest is surely stocking stitch?

01.06.2014 - 21:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Bowden, you are correct, the vest is worked in stocking st after garter st edge and before/after front edges. Happy knitting!

03.06.2014 - 10:30

country flag Vita Høgh wrote:

Lang modeller lidt kortere og den er god til kraftige personer

08.02.2007 - 12:02

country flag Anette Kracht wrote:

Rigtig god model. enkel og feminin.

06.02.2007 - 19:55