DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Sweet Buttercup Vest

Crochet waistcoat with fan pattern for baby and children in DROPS BabyMerino

DROPS Baby 19-7
DROPS design: Pattern no BM-012-by
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Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 50/56- 62/68- 74/88 (86/92-98/104)

Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
100-100-100 (100-100) g colour no 02, off-white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm – or size needed to get 20 tr x 12 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTON no 521: 3 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
WAISTCOAT:

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first tr on each row with 3 ch. Finish each row with 1 tr in 3rd ch from beg of previous row.
INCREASING TIP-1 (applies to armhole and neckline):
When inc more than 1 tr crochet the same number of ch as tr to be inc + 2 extra ch at the end of the row, turn piece and crochet 1 tr in 4th ch from hook (= 2 tr), then crochet 1 tr in each of the remaining ch. Continue as before.
INCREASING TIP-2:
Inc 1 tr by working 2 tr in the same tr.
BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band.
1 BUTTONHOLE = replace 3rd tr from mid front with 1 ch. On next row crochet 1 tr in this ch.
Make buttonholes when piece measures (measured from shoulder, the first buttonhole should be approx 1 cm after the last inc for neck):
SIZE 1/3 MONTHS: 8, 11 and 14 cm.
SIZE 6/9 MONTHS: 9, 12 and 15 cm.
SIZE 12/18 MONTHS: 9, 13 and 17 cm.
SIZE 2 YEARS: 10, 14 and 18 cm.
SIZE 3/4 YEARS: 11, 15 and 19 cm.
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Back piece and both front pieces are crochet separately from shoulder and down to below the armholes. Now pieces are sewn tog and the body piece is worked in one piece back and forth from mid front in fan pattern.

RIGHT SHOULDER BACK PIECE:
Crochet 10-12-14 (16-18) LOOSE ch with crochet hook size 3.5 mm with Baby Merino.
ROW 1: Crochet 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, then 1 tr in each ch = 8-10-12 (14-16) tr on row, turn piece.
ROW 2: See CROCHET INFO! Now crochet 1 tr in each tr, AT THE SAME TIME inc 2 tr towards neckline – See INCREASING TIP-1 = 10-12-14 (16-18) tr, turn piece.
Put piece aside and crochet left shoulder in the same way, turn piece.
ROW 3: Crochet 1 tr in each tr on left shoulder, then 10-12-14 (16-18) ch (= neckline back), then 1 tr in each tr on right shoulder, turn piece.
ROW 4: Crochet 1 tr in each tr and 1 tr in each ch on neckline = 30-36-42 (48-54) tr on row.
Continue with tr on back piece. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 5-6-7 (8-9) cm inc for armhole each side at the end of every row as follows – See INCREASING TIP-1: 1 tr 1 time, 2 tr 1 time and 4 tr 1 time = 44-50-56 (62-68) tr on row. When back piece measures 11-12-13 (14-15) cm (= 1 cm after the last inc), put piece aside and crochet the front pieces.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Crochet 10-12-14 (16-18) LOOSE ch with crochet hook size 3.5 mm with Baby Merino.
ROW 1: Crochet 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, then 1 tr in each ch = 8-10-12 (14-16) tr, turn piece.
Now crochet 1 tr in each tr. When piece measures 2-3-2 (3-3) cm inc 1 tr towards mid front for neckline – See INCREASING TIP-2. Repeat the inc on every row a total of 5-5-6 (6-7) times, then inc 6-7-7 (8-8) tr 1 time. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 5-6-7 (8-9) cm inc for armhole at the side as described for back piece – remember buttonholes on front band – SEE ABOVE. When all inc are complete there are 26-29-32 (35-38) tr on row. When piece measures 11-12-13 (14-15) cm – adjust length to back piece - put piece aside and crochet left front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Crochet like right front piece but mirrored – NOTE: Do not make buttonholes!

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams edge to edge with neat sts. Sew side seams edge to edge – there are now 96-108-120 (132-144) tr on row.

FAN PATTERN:
Continue back and forth for body piece from mid front as follows:
ROW 1: Crochet 1 tr in each tr, AT THE SAME TIME inc 8 tr evenly (do not inc on 4 tr each side towards mid front = front bands) = 104-116-128 (140-152) tr on row.
ROW 2: 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 3 tr (= front band), * 2 ch, skip approx 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr *, repeat from *-* so that you will have 30-34-38 (42-46) ch-loops and 6 or 7 tr remain, crochet 2 ch and finish with 1 tr in each of the last 4 tr on row (= front band), turn piece. There are now 31-35-39 (43-47) ch-loops with 4 tr each side for front band.
ROW 3: 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 3 tr, skip first ch-loop, * 4 tr + 2 ch + 4 tr in next ch-loop, 1 tr in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* until 2 ch-loops remain, crochet 4 tr + 2 ch + 4 tr in next ch-loop, skip last ch-loop and finish with 1 tr in each of the 4 tr on front band = 15-17-19 (21-23) fans with 4 tr each side towards mid front, turn piece.
ROW 4: 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 3 tr, * 4 tr + 2 ch + 4 tr in the middle of the next tr-group (i.e. in ch-loop in the tr-group), 1 tr in tr from previous row *, repeat from *-* until 1 tr-group remain, 4 tr + 2 ch + 4 tr in the middle of this tr-group and finish with 1 tr in each of the 4 tr on front band, turn piece.
Now repeat row 4 until piece measures approx 18-20-23 (23-25) cm from shoulder.
CROCHET NEXT ROW AS FOLLOWS: 4 ch, 1 dtr in each of the next 3 tr, * 4 dtr + 2 ch + 4 dtr in the middle of next tr-group, 1 dtr in tr from previous row *, repeat from *-* until 1 tr-group remain, 4 dtr + 2 ch + 4 dtr in the middle of this tr-group and finish with 1 dtr in each of the 4 tr on front band, turn piece.
Repeat this row until piece measures approx 23-25-28 (30-32) cm from shoulder. Cut and fasten threads.

CROCHET BORDER:
Crochet a border along the opening with crochet hook size 3.5 mm with Baby Merino as follows – beg at the bottom of right front piece and crochet up along front piece and neckline on front piece: * 3 ch, skip approx 1 cm, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* up to the shoulder seam, * skip approx 2 cm, 3 tr + 2 ch + 3 tr in next st, skip approx 2 cm, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* along neckline on back piece to the other shoulder seam, * 3 ch, skip approx 1 cm, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* along neckline and front band on left front piece.
ARMHOLE:
Crochet 1 dc in first st, * skip approx 2 cm, 3 tr + 2 ch + 3 tr in next st, skip approx 2 cm, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first st from beg of round.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew on buttons.

Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (35)

country flag Ingegerd Söderberg wrote:

När jag virkar ena framstycket går det bra, men när jag försöker virka det andra åt motsatt håll, så blir det ett dera ett varv mindre för att jag ska kunna öka ut i slutet på varvet annars blir det liksom avigt... vad gör jag för fel...?

18.08.2023 - 15:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Ingegerd Litt vanskelig gå vite hva du gjør feil, men vi skal hjelpe deg så godt vi kan. Hvilken str. hekler du / hvor mange masker har du etter etter 1. rad. mvh DROPS Design

21.08.2023 - 09:01

country flag Rachel wrote:

When crocheting the shell pattern down from the double-crochet bodice, the pattern says to start with treble crochet and then change to double crochet lower down, but the picture looks like it should be the other way round. Please confirm which way round it should be.

20.06.2023 - 12:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rachel, you are reading the US-pattern correct? This means you work top part with double crochet (US-English terminology), then work the fan pattern over all stitches on body, first with double crochets then with treble crochets instead of double crochets to get the fan higher/longer. Happy crocheting!

20.06.2023 - 15:32

country flag Antoinette Sluijter wrote:

Ik ben een paar x opnieuw begonnen en heb nu alle panden aan elkaar gemaakt en met de meerderingen nu 116 stokjes. Nu moet ik met de lossenbogen beginnen. Maar ik kom met geen mogelijkheid aan 34 bogen als ik doe wat in het patroon staat. Aleen maar meer. Kloppen de aantallen steken wel?

29.01.2023 - 16:59

country flag Antoinette wrote:

Hoeveel toeren meoet je het achterpand in stokjes haken nadat je de schoyderdelen aaneen hebt gesloten middels de lossenketting?

25.01.2023 - 11:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Antoinette,

Dit is heel afhankelijk van de maat die je haakt. Na toer 4 haak je verder in de hoogte tot het werk 11-12-13 (14-15) cm meet.

01.02.2023 - 21:06

country flag Antoinette wrote:

Ik ben met achterpand bedonnen. Klopt het dat de kant van de opgezette lossenstreng de bovenkant van de schouders is?

25.01.2023 - 11:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Antoinette,

Ja, inderdaad, dat is de bovenkant van een schouder. Je haakt vanaf de schouder naar beneden.

01.02.2023 - 21:07

country flag Esther wrote:

Vraagje. Ik snap echt niet hoe ik de meerdering moet haken bij de armsgaten. De ene kant lukt wel maar als ik de andere kant haak dan meerder ik de toer erboven en niet in dezelfde toer. Ik heb het filmpje bekeken maar daar wordt ook maar een kant getoond

10.06.2020 - 11:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Esther,

Aan de andere kant meerder je inderdaad in de toer erboven. Er komt dus een verspring in de meerderingen.

11.06.2020 - 13:33

country flag Donna wrote:

Hi! When increasing for the arm hole, I understand how to add stitches at the beginning of the row using a chain. When I get to the other end, how do I add stitches? Thanks!

03.03.2020 - 07:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Donna, the increase on armholes and neck are worked the same way at the end of the rows (both from RS and from WS), ie to increase 1 dc, crochet at the end of the row: 1 ch + 2 ch to turn with, turn and work 1 dc in the 3rd ch from hook, work to the end of the row and repeat the inc. Happy crocheting!

03.03.2020 - 10:04

country flag Donna wrote:

This pattern is adorable! Could you please tell me how many yards or meters are needed for each size? Thanks!

01.03.2020 - 22:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Donna, you will find the required amount of yarn for each size under header - read more here. Happy knitting!

02.03.2020 - 10:57

country flag Martine wrote:

Bonjour, au 4ème rang du point d'éventail, 4B+2ml+4B au milieu du groupe de B suiv... Il est écrit dans l'arceau d'1 ml du groupe de B qui est en réalité un arceau de 2 ml, me semble-t-il....? L'éventail étant constitué de 4B,2ml,4B...? Merci d'avance

09.02.2020 - 23:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Martine, il s'agit bien de l'arceau du groupe de brides précédent (= 2 mailles en l'air effectivement, la correction a été faite, merci). Bon crochet!

10.02.2020 - 10:02

country flag Karin Andersson wrote:

Det går inte att skriva ut era mönster. Det kommer endast upp en bild på flera garnnystan.

18.01.2020 - 17:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Karin. Når det kommer opp et bilde av flere garnnøster må du klikke på teksten der det står "Skriv ut mönster →" øverst til høyre. God Fornøyelse!

20.01.2020 - 15:00