Dance With Me |
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Knitted DROPS dress with skirt worked from side to side with short rows and stripes, and knitted top in stocking st with round yoke in "Fabel". Size: S - XXXL
DROPS 128-1 |
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GARTER ST (in the round): *K 1 round and P 1 round*, repeat from *-*. INCREASE TIP: Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row knit YO twisted (i.e. work in the back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes. DECREASE TIP: Dec by K 2 sts tog. -------------------------------------------------------- DRESS: Beg by working a skirt back and forth on circular needle from side to side. To give the skirt width at the bottom work with short rows. Then work round yoke. LOOSELY cast on 132-134-136-140-142-144 sts on 2 circular needles size 3 mm with 604, ocean view. Pull out one of the needles (to avoid a tight cast on edge) and work as explained below. The entire skirt is worked in Garter st, i.e. K all rows. Work first row as follows (from waist down = WS): Work 8-10-12-14-16-18 sts, insert MARKER 1, work 14-14-14-16-16-16 sts, insert MARKER 2, work 18 sts, insert MARKER 3, work 10 sts, insert MARKER 4, work 10 sts, insert MARKER 5, work 6 sts, insert MARKER 6, work 6 sts, insert MARKER 7, work 6 sts, insert MARKER 8, work 6 sts, insert MARKER 9, work 6 sts, insert MARKER 10, work 6 sts, insert MARKER 11, work 6 sts, insert MARKER 12, work 6 sts, insert MARKER 13, work 6 sts, insert MARKER 14, work 6 sts, insert MARKER 15, work 6 sts, insert MARKER 16, work the remaining 6 sts. Move the markers upwards when working. Continue to work with short rows (NOTE! Tighten the thread on every turn in mid of piece before continuing, to avoid holes) as follows: * Work 2 rows with 100, off white back and forth over all sts (1st row = RS), work 10-10-10-12-12-14 rows with 604, ocean view back and forth over all sts (= 12-12-12-14-14-16 rows in garter st over all sts). Then work until MARKER 1, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 2, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 3, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 4, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 5, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 6, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 7, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 8, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 9, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 10, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 11, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 12, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 13, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 14, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 15, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 16, turn and work back over the remaining 6 sts. Switch to off white and work 2 rows back and forth over all sts. Switch back to ocean view and work until MARKER 16, turn piece and work back. Then work until MARKER 15, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 14, turn piece and work back. Work until MARKER 13, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 12, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 11, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 10, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 9, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 8, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 7, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 6, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 5, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 4, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 3, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 2, turn and work back. Work until MARKER 1, turn and work back. Work 10-10-10-12-12-14 rows back and forth over all sts with ocean view *. Repeat from *-* until piece measures approx. 35-40-45-53-58-60 cm vertically (measured at the shortest when piece is flat on the table) - adjust after one whole repetition, but possibly round down to avoid longer measurements. Insert a marker (= side of dress). Repeat from *-* until piece measures approx. 35-40-45-53-58-60 cm from marker (i.e. front and back piece are the same length) then VERY LOOSELY cast off. ASSEMBLY: Sew skirt tog in the side - sew edge to edge in front loop of outermost st so that the seam is flat. BODY: Beg from RS at side seam and knit up 1 st in every ridge (2 rows in garter st) around the entire opening of the skirt on circular needle size 2.5 mm with off white. P 1 round. K 2 rounds while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting the no of sts to 168-192-216-240-264-288 on 1st round. Then work a lace edge as follows: * 1 YO, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round. Then K 2 rounds. Then P 1 round and K 1 round. Now insert a marker in each side, i.e. at beg of round and after 84-96-108-120-132-144 sts - move the markers upwards when working. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and ocean view and work in stocking st. AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd round, inc 1 st on each side each marker - READ INCREASE TIP! (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 1½-1½-2½-2½-3-3 cm a total of 6-6-5-5-5-5 times = 192-216-236-260-284-308 sts. When piece measures 11-12-13-14-15-16 cm from where sts were knitted up for body, cast off 12 sts in each side (i.e. 6 sts on each side of both markers) = 84-96-106-118-130-142 sts remain for front and back piece. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves. SLEEVE: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 74-79-84-89-94-99 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with ocean view. Insert a marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve). Work 6 rounds in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME casting off 12 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. 6 sts each side of marker) = 62-67-72-77-82-87 sts. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve. YOKE: Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 292-326-356-390-424-458 sts. Work in stocking st with ocean view while AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-1-5-0-4-10 sts evenly on 1st round = 286-325-351-390-420-448 sts. Insert 11-13-13-13-14-14 markers in piece with 26-25-27-30-30-32 sts between each. After 5-8-5-5-8-5 rounds in stocking st, dec 1 st before every marker - Read DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec on every 6th round a total of 6-6-7-7-7-8 times, then on every other round a total of 3-3-3-4-5-5 times = 187-208-221-247-252-266 sts. After last dec, switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm. K 2 rounds while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting the no of sts to 186-207-219-246-252-264 on last round. ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK: Now work an elevation in back of neck, back and forth on needle as follows: Insert a marker in the middle st mid front. Start mid back and work until 19 sts remain before marker at the front, turn piece, tighten thread and work until 19 sts remain before marker in the other side. Turn piece, tighten thread and work until 46 sts remain before marker at the front, turn piece, tighten thread and work until 46 sts remain before marker in the other side. Turn piece, tighten thread and work until 67-75-79-85-87-90 sts remain before marker, turn piece, tighten thread and work back until 67-75-79-85-87-90 sts remain before marker in the other side. Turn piece, tighten thread and work until mid back. NECKLINE: P 1 round and K 2 rounds, then work lace edge as follows: * 1 YO, K 3 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 124-138-146-164-168-176 sts remain on needle. K 2 rounds while AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-8-10-20-18-20 sts evenly on the last round = 118-130-136-144-150-156 sts. P 1 round and K 1 round, and then loosely cast off with P sts. Piece measures approx. 82-85-88-91-94-97 cm when flat, it will be longer when dress is worn. TIE WITH CONE: Crochet a ch-row on hook size 2.5 mm with off white until row measures approx. 130 cm (or desired measurement around waist). Then work 1 sl st in 4th ch from hook (= beg of cone). ROUND 1: Work 6 dc in ch-ring. ROUND 2: Work 2 dc in every dc = 12 dc. ROUND 3: Work * 1 dc in first dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 18 dc. ROUND 4-7: Work 1 dc in every dc = 18 dc. ROUND 8: Work * 1 dc in first dc, then work the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 12 dc. ROUND 9: Work 1 dc in every dc = 12 dc. ROUND 10: Crochet all dc tog 2 by 2 = 6 dc. ROUND 11: Work all dc tog 2 by 2 = 3 dc. Cut the thread, baste it up and down through sts, pull the thread to tighten and fasten tightly. Crochet another cone. Beg by working 4 ch and form a ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch. Then continue as explained above. Sew this cone to the ch-row after the tie has been inserted in the lace edge. Work another tie for neck with a length of approx. 100 cm. |
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Comments / Questions (141)
Lotte Kyvik wrote:
Jeg lure på det samme som hansine,- at det skal være 12 cm når det felles til ærmehul, og ifølge diagrammet skal det være 17 cm etterpå. Hvilket betyr at bilen blir 29 cm, hvilket virker veldig kort når man måler fra livet og opp???
03.11.2014 - 22:09DROPS Design answered:
Hej Lotte, Hvis du ser på måleskitsen, så ser du at målene til bæretykket ikke starter ved taljen men lige under brystet. Så det stemmer at bærestykket skal være 29 cm i str M. God fornøjelse!
25.11.2014 - 09:05Ana Isabel wrote:
Me gustaría hacer este patrón pero no lo entiendo. Por qué se montan en dos agujas circulares? para que se usa aguja circular sui se trabaja como una aguja normal?
30.10.2014 - 14:20DROPS Design answered:
Hola Ana. Este modelo se trabaja con ag circulares para tener espacio suficiente para todos los pts. La primera fila se monta con dos ag para tener el borde más elástico.
30.10.2014 - 23:57Hilde Birkeland wrote:
Ser det er en hvit stripe som er strikket inn på bolen og på bærestykket. Det står ikke i oppskriften at jeg skal bytte farge. Men syntes at det var fint med den, så lurte på hvordan jeg kan justere mønsteret og strikke den inn? Takk
03.08.2014 - 20:29DROPS Design answered:
Hei Hilde. Jo, det er starten på BOL: Start fra retten ved sidesømmen og strikk opp 1 m i hver rille rundt hele skjørtets åpning på rundp 2,5 med natur... osv.
04.08.2014 - 15:44Gitte Agerlund wrote:
Kan man vælge frit ml de forskellige Fabel garn typer? Eller er det kun den type der er link til i opskriften?
28.06.2014 - 13:30DROPS Design answered:
Hej Gitte. Du kan bruge alle farver og typer i DROPS Fabel. Du kan ikke bruge DROPS Big Fabel - den er tykkere.
01.07.2014 - 14:25Lin Janson wrote:
How does the sizing refer to English, I'm a size 14
19.05.2014 - 21:45DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Janson, you will find at the end of the pattern a measurement chart with all measures taken flat from side to side for each size. Compare these to a similar garment you have and like the shape to find the matching size. Happy knitting!
20.05.2014 - 09:03M. Wicht wrote:
Hallo, ich habe noch eine Frage: Können Sie mir sagen wieviel, ich nenne es mal Rapporte (also von dem natur-Streifen bis zum nächsten natur-Streifen) sich bei der Größe XL ergeben. Bis jetzt sind es bei mir 26 Stück.Ich bin mir so unsicher was die weite des Rockes betrifft. Lieber etwas weiter oder lieber enger stricken. Kann es leider nicht anprobieren da es für meine Tochter in Norwegen ist. Vielleicht können Sie mir weiterhelfen. Lieben Gruß und Danke im voraus. M. Wicht
10.05.2014 - 11:15DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Wicht, maßgeblich ist das Taillenmaß, das ja mit der unteren Rockweite zusammenhängt. Messen Sie also möglichst genau aus, dass die Taillenweite stimmt (also bei Größe XL 53 cm, ein gesamter Umfang von 106 cm), d.h. Sie messen die kurze Seite des Gestricks, liegend. Die Taille sollte nicht zu weit werden. Sie könnten Ihre Tochter vorsichtshalber nach ihren genauen Maßen fragen. Gutes Gelingen!
10.05.2014 - 14:21M.Wicht wrote:
Hallo, ich habe das Kleid in Gr. XL angefangen, der Rock ist an der schmalen Seite 53cm und an der breiten Seite 173cm. Meine Frage: wird dann weitergestrickt, also nochmals die gleichen Maße, abgekettet und dann zusammengenäht (also 1 Naht auf der Seite vom ganzen Rock)? Oder muß ich ein 2. Teil (Rückenteil Rock)in der gleichen Größe (also 53cm und 173cm) stricken und anschließend links und rechts zusammennähen? Ich bitte um kurze Info. Danke im voraus. Lieben Gruß M. Wicht
05.03.2014 - 10:36DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Wicht, Sie stricken den Rock an einem Stück und haben nur eine einzige Seitennaht. Die andere Seite wird beim Stricken mit einem Markierer gekennzeichnet, damit Vorder- und Rückseite des Rockteils gleich breit werden. Nach den 53 cm, die Sie nun gestrickt haben, markieren Sie also die Seite und stricken nun noch mal 53 cm. Viel Spaß beim Weiterstricken!
05.03.2014 - 17:23Anna wrote:
Hallo in de Nederlandse beschrijving van het patroon staat dat je 1 naald recht moet breien en de markeerdraden moet plaatsen in het originele patroon staat dat je in de tweede naald je markeerdraden moet plaatsen. Wat moet ik nu doen want dat ik nogal belangrijk voor het vervolg van het patroon. Groetjes Anna
28.02.2014 - 15:32DROPS Design answered:
Hoi Anna. In zowel het Nederlandse als het originele Noorse patroon staat dat je de markeerdraden moet plaatsen in de eerste nld.
28.02.2014 - 16:43M. Wicht wrote:
Hallo, meine Frage: ich stricke das Kleid in Gr.XXL, wird der Rock an einem Stück, also unten 360cm oben 116cm gestrickt und dann zusammengenäht? Wo ist dann die Naht? auf der Seite oder hinten? Bitte um Hilfe. Danke im voraus. Lieben Gruß M. Wicht
18.02.2014 - 11:46DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Wicht, der Rock wird seitlich gestrickt, ab der Taille nach unten, beginnend mit einer Rück-R (die R, in der Sie die Markierer anbringen). Die Rück-R fangen also immer an der Taille an, die Hin-R am unteren Rand. Der Rock wird dann zusammengenäht, die Naht ist an der Seite. Für das Oberteil werden dann beginnend an der Naht M aus dem Taillenrand aufgefasst, aus jeder Krausrippe (1 Krausrippe = 2 R) 1 M, d.h. Sie fassen aus jedem "Knötchen" 1 M auf und stricken dann in Runden weiter.
18.02.2014 - 12:07DROPS Design wrote:
Liebe Frau Wicht, Sie haben Recht, die Zahlen waren vertauscht, wir beheben das gleich.
14.02.2014 - 10:57