The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
All measurements in charts are in cm.
= P from RS, K from WS | |
= 1 YO + slip 1 st as if to K | |
= From WS: P tog YO and the slipped st |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Edward |
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Knitted sweater for men with v-neck in DROPS Alpaca. Sizes S - XXL
DROPS 135-26 |
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RIB: * K1, P2 *, repeat from * - *. GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows. PATTERN: See diagram M.1. Row 1 in diagram = work from RS. -------------------------------------------------------- FRONT PIECE: Cast on 104-107-116-125-134-143 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 or 2 with Alpaca and work RIB - see above - with 1 edge st each side for 5-5-6-6-6-6 cm / 2"-2"-2½"-2½"-2½"-2½". Change to size 3.5 mm/US 4 and work 2 rows GARTER ST - see above - AT THE SAME TIME dec 1-0-1-0-1-0 sts on row 1 = 103-107-115-125-133-143 sts. Continue in stockinette st. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 10 cm / 4" inc 1 st each side on every 12-5-5-5-5-7 cm / 4¾"-2"-2"-2"-2"-2¾" a total of 2-5-6-6-6-5 times = 107-117-127-137-145-153 sts. At the same time when piece measures 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm / 12¼"-12½"-13"-13⅜"-13¾"-14¼" work 2 rows garter st, and then continue in M.1. When piece measures 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm / 15¾"-16⅛"-16½"-17"-17¼"-17¾" bind off for armhole each side on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3-3-3-4-5-5 times and 1 st 2-3-3-3-3-5 times = 85-93-103-109-113-117 sts. When piece measures 45-48-49-50-52-53 cm / 17¾"-19"-19¼"-19¾"-20½"-21" finish M.1 with 1 row stockinette st and 1 P row (as seen from RS), and continue in stockinette st. When piece measures 50-51-53-54-55-57 cm / 19¾"-20"-21"-21¼"-21⅝" bind off the middle 5 sts for V-neck and complete each side separately. Bind off 1 st on neckline on every other row: 1 st 14-16-17-17-18-18 times = 26-28-32-35-36-38 sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 60-62-65-67-69-71 cm / 23⅝"-24⅜"-25½"-26⅜"-27⅛"-28". BACK PIECE: Cast on and work like front piece. bind off for armhole as described for front piece and continue until piece measures 58-60-63-65-67-69 cm / 22¾"-23⅝"-24¾"-25½"-26⅜"-27⅛". Now bind off the middle 29-33-35-35-37-37 sts for neck. Bind off on neckline on every other row: 1 st 2 times = 26-28-32-35-36-38 sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 60-62-65-67-69-71 cm / 23⅝"-24⅜"-25½"-26⅜"-27⅛"-28". SLEEVE: Cast on 53-53-56-59-62-62 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 or 2 with Alpaca and work RIB for 6-6-7-7-7-7 cm / 2½"-2½"-2¾"-2¾"-2¾"-2¾". Change to needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work 2 rows garter st and continue in stockinette st. When piece measures 12-12-15-12-12-10 cm / 4¾"-4¾"-6"-4¾"-4¾"-4" inc 1 st each side on every 2.5-2-1.5-1.5-1.5-1.5 cm / ⅞"-¾"-½"-½"-½"-½" a total of 16-19-22-24-24-26 times = 85-91-100-107-110-114 sts. When sleeve measures 55-54-53-53-52-51 cm / 21⅝"-21¼"-21"-21"-20½"-20" (less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder) bind off for sleeve cap each side on every other row: 3 sts 4 times, the 2 sts each side until piece measures 63-62-61-61-61-61 cm / 24¾"-24⅜"-24"-24"-24"-24", now bind off 3 sts 1 time each side. Bind off remaining sts, piece measures approx 64-63-62-62-62-62 cm / 25¼"-24¾"-24⅜"-24⅜"-24⅜"-24⅜". ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams. Set in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seam inside 1 edge st. NECK: Beg to the left of the 5 sts mid front, pick up approx 92 to 125 (divisible by 3+2) round neck on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 or 2 with Alpaca and finish to the right of the 5 sts mid front. Work back and forth from mid front. K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS, then work rib as follows (row 1 = WS) : 1 garter st, * P1, K2 *, repeat from * - *, finish with 1 garter st. The rib will be K1 / P2 as seen from RS. When neckline measures 4 cm / 1½" bind off in rib. Place the right side of neckline over the left mid front and fasten through both layers. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogs and 11422 patterns - 11417 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (57)
Ale wrote:
Ho una lana che si lavora con un ferro da 6, e il mio ragazzo porta una L. Dato che ho già disfatto interamente il maglione, avete qualche consiglio maggiore da darmi? grazie!!
24.03.2014 - 10:10DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Ale, l'importante è che il suo campione corrisponda esattamente a quello indicato, non ha importanza la misura dei ferri. Inoltre, scorrendo la pagina può trovare lo schema con le misure per individuare la taglia adatta. Se ha già lavorato il modello ed era troppo grande, provi ad avviare una taglia più piccola. Buon lavoro!!
24.03.2014 - 14:04Robin wrote:
Also stricke den pulli in größe M für meinen Mann aber habe das gefühl der wird viel zu klein... geht die anleitung nach den normalen konfektionsgrößen?
25.01.2014 - 19:14DROPS Design answered:
Hallo Robin, die genauen Masse in cm sehen Sie in der Schnittübersicht.
27.01.2014 - 10:25Meryl wrote:
I do not understand how to proceed with the M.1 pattern. I am not near the store where I purchased the pattern and yarn and cannot get personal assistance. How do I proceed?
30.12.2013 - 19:27DROPS Design answered:
Dear Meryl, start reading diag. on the bottom corner on the right side towards the left from RS then from WS from the left towards theh right, ie: Row1: *YO+ sl 1 as if to K, P1*, repeat from *-*. Row2: *K1, P tog yo + sl st*, repeat from *-*. Happy knitting!
02.01.2014 - 10:15Shanam wrote:
Jag har stickat den här tröjan och måttet är helt fel. Halsen blir för tajt och dem första 30 centimeter på armarna också. Jag har repat upp och justerat många gånger. Jag är väldigt erfaren när det kommer till stickning och har använt mig av många av Drops mönster. Jag har aldrig haft ett sådant problem. Det här är ett tidskrävande mönster med tanke på stickfastheten. Det vore så bra om ni kunde rätta till det.
18.11.2013 - 08:38Chantal wrote:
Ik ben gestart met het patroon. Er staat zet 125 st op. Brei 6 cm boordsteek. Brei dan twee rijen ribbelsteek en minder tegelijkertijd 0-1-0-1-0 =125 st. Wat wordt hier bedoeld? Als je mindert kan het toch nooit zijn. Dat je hetzelfde stekenaantal overhoudt als voor de mindering?
01.09.2013 - 22:28DROPS Design answered:
Hoi Chantal. Voor maat XL zet je 125 st op en mindert 0 st = 125 st blijft dan. Het minderen geldt alleen voor maat S, L en XXL (- 1 st).
02.09.2013 - 12:05Tricotte wrote:
Merci pour ce beau modèle! J'ai enfin terminé de le réaliser! Je crois toutefois qu'il y ait une erreur dans le nombre de mailles à relever pour le col autour de l'encolure. J'en ai relevé 140, et c'est quand même assez serré, près du cou. Pour que le résultat soit similaire à la photo, il faudrait en relever beaucoup plus.
29.05.2013 - 04:50Tricotte wrote:
J'ai commencé M1, mais je ne suis pas certaine de la manière dont je dois finir le rang. Il y a 115 m., donc 19 répétitions du motif + une maille de surplus. Dois-je tricoter cette maille en faisant un jeté puis en glissant la maille à l'endroit? Ou tricoter une autre maille envers sur l'endroit? Ma démarche pour le moment (jeté + glisser 1 m) semble laisser un jour à la fin de tous les rangs impairs. Merci!
13.04.2013 - 22:29DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Tricotte, en taille M, vous avez 117 m, donc si vous tricotez 1 m lis de chaque côté, vous pouvez répéter 19 fois le diagramme + la 1ère m (1jeté, glisser 1 m). Bon tricot !
15.04.2013 - 11:15Tricotte wrote:
Bonjour, quel point ou technique est utilisé pour coudre dans les deux épaisseurs du col, à la fin de l'ouvrage? Merci!
20.03.2013 - 21:38DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Tricotte, vous pouvez utiliser différentes techniques, reportez-vous à l'index des vidéos techniques/assemblage pour choisir votre couture côté préférée. Bon tricot !
25.03.2013 - 10:19Blancula wrote:
Ich glaube, es besteht ein Fehler in der Uebersetzung. "Nach 45-48-49-50-52-53 cm M1 mit M1 mit 1 R. glatt und 1 R. li. abschliessen (von der Vorderseite gesehen), danach glatt stricken." ergibt keinen Sinn. Es sollte "Nach 45-48-49-50-52-53 cm mit 1 R. glatt und 1 R. li. abschliessen (von der Vorderseite gesehen), danach glatt stricken." lauten. M1 mit M1 passt nicht. Ich habe es mit der englischen Version vergliechen.
17.02.2013 - 23:10DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Blancula, ja, das ist unserer Übersetzerin ein Fehler passiert. Es ist einmal zu viel M1 erwähnt. Wir haben den Text nun korrigiert. Danke für den Hinweis!
18.02.2013 - 10:11Monika Scherer wrote:
Hallo, beziehen sich die Abnahmen für Arm- u. Halsausschnitt auf jede 2. Reihe (Vorder- u. Rückenteil)? Danke im voraus. LG Monika Scherer
06.02.2013 - 12:57DROPS Design answered:
Guten Tag Frau Scherer, ja es bezieht sich auf jede 2. Reihe.
06.02.2013 - 18:16