The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
= light pearl grey | |
= petrol | |
= blue turquoise | |
= dark old rose | |
= orange | |
= dark mustard | |
= K 2 tog with base colour in pattern |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Joyride Cardigan |
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Knitted DROPS jacket with round yoke and Nordic pattern in "Karisma". Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS 166-2 |
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GARTER ST (back and forth): K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K. GARTER ST (worked in the round): * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds. INCREASE TIP: All inc are done from RS. Inc 1 st by picking up a st from previous row, K this st. BUTTONHOLES: Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO. Dec for buttonholes when piece measures: SIZE S: 7, 15, 23, 31, 39, 47 and 54 cm SIZE M: 9, 17, 25, 33, 41, 49 and 56 cm SIZE L: 11, 19, 27, 35, 43, 51 and 58 cm SIZE XL: 12, 19, 26, 33, 40, 47, 54 and 60 cm SIZE XXL: 9, 17, 25, 33, 41, 49, 56 and 62 cm SIZE XXXL: 9, 17, 25, 33, 41, 49, 57 and 64 cm RAGLAN: Dec for raglan on each side of marker in every transition between sleeves and body. Beg 2 sts before marker, K 2 tog, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec). PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 and A.2 (choose diagram for correct size). The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. KNITTING TIP: To avoid the knitting tension to tighten when working pattern on yoke, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle no when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight. ---------------------------------------------------------- BODY: Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 170-186-206-222-246-270 sts (incl 5 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3 mm with light pearl grey. Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work in stocking st with 5 band sts in garter st in each side towards mid front. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION and remember to dec for BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above. When piece measures 8 cm, insert 1 marker 45-49-54-58-64-70 sts in from each side = 80-88-98-106-118-130 sts between markers on back piece. Now inc 1 st on each side of both markers – READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc). Repeat the inc in each side on every 8 cm a total of 4 times = 186-202-222-238-262-286 sts. When piece measures 36-37-38-38-40-41 cm, cast off 6-6-8-8-10-10 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. cast off 3-3-4-4-5-5 sts on each side of both markers) = 82-90-98-106-116-128 sts remain on back piece and 46-50-54-58-63-69 sts on each front piece. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves. SLEEVE: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 48-48-54-54-54-60 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm with dark old rose. Work 2 ridges. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1 (= 8-8-9-9-9-10 repetitions on round). After A.1 continue in stocking st with light pearl grey. When piece measures 7-9-9-9-10-11 cm, inc 2 sts mid under sleeve. Repeat inc every 3½-2½-3-2½-2-2 cm a total of 11-13-11-13-15-14 times = 70-74-76-80-84-88 sts. When piece measures 44-43-42-41-41-41 cm (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders), cast off the middle 6-6-8-8-10-10 sts under sleeve = 64-68-68-72-74-78 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve. YOKE: Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 302-326-342-366-390-422 sts. Insert 1 marker in every transition between sleeves and body = 4 markers. Then work in stocking st with light pearl grey (continue bands in garter st). AT THE SAME TIME on first row from RS beg dec for RAGLAN – see explanation above (= 8 sts dec). Repeat dec for raglan every other row (i.e. every row from RS) 2-2-3-3-3-3 times in total = 286-310-318-342-366-398 sts. After last row with dec, P 1 row from WS (continue bands in garter st) while dec 3-11-3-7-13-9 sts evenly (do not dec over bands) = 283-299-315-335-353-389 sts on needle. READ KNITTING TIP! Work next row as follows from RS: Work 5 band sts as before, work pattern according to diagram A.2 until 6 sts remain on row (choose diagram for correct size = 17-18-19-18-19-21 repetitions), finish with 1 st in stocking st with light pearl grey and 5 band sts in garter st as before. Continue pattern like this and dec as shown in diagram. When A.2 has been worked (finish after a row marked with arrow in diagram for correct size), there are 130-137-144-137-144-158 sts on needle and piece measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm up to shoulder. ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK: For better fit work an elevation at the back of neck. Insert 1 marker mid back. Beg from RS with dark old rose and K as before until 20-21-22-23-24-25 sts have been worked past marker, turn, tighten yarn and P 40-42-44-46-48-50 sts back. Turn, tighten yarn and K 50-52-54-56-58-60 sts, turn, tighten yarn and P 60-62-64-66-68-70 sts back. Turn, tighten yarn and K 70-72-74-76-78-80 sts, turn, tighten yarn and P 80-82-84-86-88-90 sts back. Turn and K the rest of the row. P 1 row from WS with dark old rose while dec 38-35-38-25-28-38 sts evenly (do not dec over bands) = 92-102-106-112-116-120 sts - NOTE: Remember that last buttonhole should be in the transition between body and neck edge). NECK EDGE: Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and work 5 rows in stocking st (= roll edge) with dark old rose, then cast off with P from WS. ASSEMBLY: Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew on buttons. POCKETS: Worked back and forth on double pointed needles. Cast on 24-24-26-28-30-30 sts on 1 double pointed needle size 3 mm with light pearl grey. Work 3 ridges. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work in stocking st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. Cast off when pocket measures 12-12-13-14-15-15 cm. Knit another pocket. Place one pocket on each front piece, approx. 8-9-10-11-12-13 cm from mid front and approx. 6-7-7-8-8-8 cm from bottom edge (try the jacket and pockets on for desired placement). Sew on pockets with grafting/kitchener stitches inside 1 edge st. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (26)
Tine Munkberg wrote:
Strikke str.xl, orginal garn, tjekket alt passer gennem arbejdet, kommer til bærestykket, tager ind som der står, efter disse indtagninger passer maskeantal så pludselig med Str.L? 318m ikke 342m som til Str.Xl Hvad sker der?
29.12.2022 - 10:52DROPS Design answered:
Hej Tine, i XL har du 366 masker, tager 8mx3=24 m ind= 342m-7=335m :)
04.01.2023 - 12:24Darcie Clapp wrote:
It seems the finished measurements are incorrect on the English version. They are enormous. If I calculate the stitch count out by the gauge it is much more reasonable. Can you confirm the bust and sleeve length measurements for each size please?
10.10.2022 - 21:58DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Clapp, the measurements in the chart are taken flat, from side to side, in cm - convert into inches here - read more about reading measurement chart here. Hope it can help. Happy knitting!
11.10.2022 - 07:58Pettersson Cecilia wrote:
Hej. Det står inte hur lång ärmen ska vara innan avmaskning 6 maskor. Stl s.
15.01.2022 - 12:10DROPS Design answered:
Hei Petterson. Ja, her manglet det en linje i den svenske oppskriften. Det skal vi få ordnet, takk for at du gjorde oss oppmerksom på dette. I mellomtiden, så kan du se på den norske teksten: ... = 70-74-76-80-84-88 m. Når arb måler 44-43-42-41-41-41 cm (NB: Kortere... mvh DROPS Design
18.01.2022 - 09:34Carina wrote:
Hola Al seguir leyendo me parece que la chaqueta se teje de abajo a arriba, es así? Yo la estoy pensando de arriba a abajo 🤭
29.12.2021 - 03:21DROPS Design answered:
Hola Carina, a chaqueta se teje de abajo a arriba. Saludos!
29.12.2021 - 10:18Carina wrote:
Hola. Pero decís que se empieza por el gris pela, pero en la foto me parece que está empezado con el rosa, no sé si estoy equivocada 🙄
29.12.2021 - 00:24DROPS Design answered:
Hola Carina, la chaqueta se empieza de abajo, por el gris pela. Saludos!
29.12.2021 - 10:27Wibeke Benjaminsen wrote:
Hei. Lurer på om det er mulig å strikke denne jakken rundt for så å klippe opp? Må jeg i såfall strikke en annen type stolpe eller kan det løses på noen måte?
22.03.2019 - 23:05DROPS Design answered:
Hei Wibeke. Om du vil strikke rundt og klippe opp, bør du legge til oppklippsmasker midt foran (feks 5 masker), og strikke stolpene og belegg etter at du har klippet opp. God fornøyelse
25.03.2019 - 15:20Karin Fagnastøl wrote:
Hei. Jeg prøver å skrive ut diagram til oppskrift 166-2 men får bare ut deler av diagrammet. \r\nKan du ev. sende meg den siden, det er side 4 . \r\nKarin
05.02.2019 - 10:16DROPS Design answered:
Hei Karin. Vi har dessverre ikke mulighet til å sende oppskrifter individuelt, men vi har sjekket dette og det gikk helt fint an å skrive ut alle sidene. Har du kontrollert at du ikke har spesifisert sideantall på printerinstillingene dine? Eventuelt skalert bildet slik at ikke diagrammet blir kuttet? God fornøyelse.
08.02.2019 - 14:11Emilie Löfgren wrote:
Hej, jag undrar om det saknas någon bit i texten för ärmen. Efter OBS förklaringen så känns det som att det saknad en bit. "Upprepa ökningen med 3½-2½-3-2½-2-2 cm mellanrum totalt 11-13-11-13-15-14 ggr =OBS: Kortare mått i de större stl pga bredare axelvidd), maskas de mittersta 6-6-8-8-10-10 m under ärmen av = 64-68-68-72-74-78 m kvar på st."
12.10.2018 - 21:30DROPS Design answered:
Hej Emilie, ärmen fortsätter under oket. Lycka till :)
29.10.2018 - 15:18Heidi Thusgaard wrote:
Hej Kan jeg udskifte garnet med Drops BabyAlpaca Silk? Mvh Heidi
07.06.2018 - 10:21DROPS Design answered:
Hej Heidi, egentlig ikke. Drops BabyAlpaca Silk tilhører garngruppe A og Karisma garngruppe B. Hvis du klikker på "Prøv vores omregner" - vælger DROPS Karisma - 750g - 1 tråd, så får du de alternativer op som passer bedst til DROPS Karisma som tilhører garngruppe B. God fornøjelse!
08.06.2018 - 11:22Heidi Thusgaard wrote:
Hej Kan jeg udskrifte garnet med Drops BabyAlpaca Silk? Mvh Heidi
07.06.2018 - 10:19