DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 75% Mohair, 25% Silk |
4.60 £ /25g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 75% Mohair, 25% Silk 4.60 £ /25g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side | |
= slip 1 stitch, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches | |
= 1 yarn over between 2 stitches | |
= knit 2 together | |
= slip 1 stitch, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
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Jumper with raglan and lace pattern on sleeves, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk.
DROPS 186-35 |
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INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN: RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round): 1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round. INCREASE TIP (for sides): Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread in the side. Make 1 yarn over, knit 4 stitches (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches) and make 1 yarn over. On the next round purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. DECREASE TIP: Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 2 stitches (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), knit the next 2 stitches together. ---------------------------------------------------------- The jumper is worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The start of the round = mid back. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle. JUMPER: Cast on 82-86-90-94-98-102 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above. Then work as follows; the round starts mid back: Knit 12-13-14-15-16-17, 1 yarn over, knit 2, A.1 (= 13 stitches = sleeve), knit 2, 1 yarn over, knit 24-26-28-30-32-34, 1 yarn over, knit 2, A.1 (= sleeve), knit 2, 1 yarn over, knit 12-13-14-15-16-17. You have now increased 8 stitches = 90-94-98-102-106-110 stitches. Continue A.1 on the sleeves and increase 1 stitch on each side of the 2 stitches in stocking stitch – the stitches which are increased on the sleeves are drawn in A.1, towards back/front piece you increase with 1 yarn over as described above. The yarn overs are knitted on the next round to leave holes. Increase 8 stitches every 2nd round, increase a total of 21-24-25-28-32-36 times = 250-278-290-318-354-390 stitches. When A.1 has been worked 1 time in height, continue the pattern in the same way upwards, A.X shows how the outermost stitches in A.1 are worked, these 6 rounds are repeated upwards. When the increases are completed, work as follows: Work 34-38-40-44-49-54 stitches (= half the back piece), place the next 57-63-65-71-79-87 stitches on 1 thread (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= under the sleeve), work 68-76-80-88-98-108 stitches (= front piece), place the next 57-63-65-71-79-87 stitches on 1 thread (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= under the sleeve) and work the remaining 34-38-40-44-49-54 stitches (= half the back piece). BODY: = 148-164-176-192-216-236 stitches. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Insert 1 marker thread in each side, in the middle of the new stitches cast on. Continue in the round with stocking stitch. When the piece measures 3 cm decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker threads – READ DECREASE TIP! Decrease every 4-4-4-3-3-2½ cm a total of 3 times = 136-152-164-180-204-224 stitches. When the piece measures 15-14-15-13-13-11 cm increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker threads – READ INCREASE TIP! Increase every 2 cm a total of 6 times = 160-176-188-204-228-248 stitches. When the piece measures 28-27-28-26-26-24 cm, work 2 rounds rib: Knit 2 /purl 2. Then cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. SLEEVE: The piece is worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Place the 57-63-65-71-79-87 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle size 5 mm and in addition knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches mid under sleeve = 63-69-73-79-89-97 stitches. Work A.2, the stitches which do not fit into the pattern mid under sleeve are worked in stocking stitch. Make sure pattern A.2 is in line with pattern A.1. When the sleeve measures 24-21-20-17-16-14 cm knit 1 round where you decrease 15-21-21-27-33-41 stitches evenly on round = 48-48-52-52-56-56 stitches. Work rib: Knit 2/purl 2 for 6 cm. Then cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl, the sleeve measures 30-27-26-23-22-20 cm from the separation. Work the other sleeve in the same way. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (34)
Malgorzata wrote:
A co z tymi 2 oczkami co rozdzielaja tyl i przod z rekawami do czego je dodac
31.12.2023 - 00:04JIMENA PIZARRO wrote:
Hola a todos, cual seria mi talla si mi contorno de pecho es 95 cm?
22.09.2023 - 08:32DROPS Design answered:
Hola Jimena, puedes ver el esquema de medidas de la prenda después de las instrucciones del patrón. La talla M tiene un contorno del pecho de la prenda de 96cm (48 x 2), mientras que la talla L tiene un contorno del pecho de la prenda de 104cm. Cuando tengas dudas, es siempre mejor elegir la talla más grande. De todas formas, puedes trabajar la talla M y hacer más aumentos en el canesú, para que no quede demasiado prieto y se ajuste a tus medidas.
24.09.2023 - 22:59Camilla wrote:
Når kan jeg vente meg svar på spørsmålet jeg stilte 15 april.
26.04.2022 - 18:51Camilla wrote:
Hei. Jeg skjønner ikke målene dere gir. Bolen skal strikkes til 26 cm i den størrelsen jeg strikker. Når jeg måler på meg selv ender den opp midt på magen. Dette har jeg opplevd på en annen genser jeg har strikket fra deres oppskrift. Endte da opp med å måtte bestille mer garn enn det oppskriften sier, det er kjedelig. Hvor er det dere måler fra når egentlig? Skjønner det ikke.
15.04.2022 - 10:31DROPS Design answered:
Hei Camilla, Du måler bolen fra bunnen av ermehull - eller der du delte bærestykket til ermene. Hilsen Drops Team.
19.04.2022 - 10:36Amal wrote:
The width of neck opening on the diagram is much smaller than the neck opening of the sweater that the model is wearing. Why is that? Also I've noticed that in many photos. I tried to follow the pattern for size M but the neck turned out tighter than i would like to be (like in the photo)
09.04.2022 - 21:07DROPS Design answered:
Dear Amal, in the diagram the measurement given is the cm between the two shoulders, not the actual width of the neck; this one is deeper and larger. In this measurement, they are not taking the 4 cm width of each sleeve, which would be taken into account for the depth of the neck opening. Happy knitting!
10.04.2022 - 20:38Salles wrote:
Bonjour, j'ai acheté le fil kid silk couleur petrole 24 et je cherche un fil alpaca qui pourrait aller avec. Merci d'avance. Cordialement
09.09.2021 - 07:17DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Salles, le plus simple est de contacter directement votre magasin DROPS, même par mail ou téléphone; il saura vous conseiller la meilleure association en fonction de ce que vous souhaitez. Bon tricot!
09.09.2021 - 09:03Irene Jones wrote:
Creo que descubrí mi error, los aumentos solamente se hacen en las vueltas impares y las pares sencillamente se tejen con puntos derechos, sin hacer cambios. ¿Es correcto? Gracias.
22.05.2021 - 23:46Irene Jones wrote:
Siguiendo sus instrucciones, tejí la primera vuelta después de los pliegues del escote y la segunda vuelta quedó así: 13 derechos, 1 hebra, 2d, 1h, 15d, 1h, 2d,1h, 26d, 1h,2d,1h y 15d. ¿Es correcto? No me queda claro si al tejer la vuelta número 3 y las vueltas impares que siguen debo continuar tejiendo 1 hebra y 2 derechos antes de empezar A.1 y al terminarlo, tal como lo indican en la vuelta1. Muchas gracias por su ayuda!
21.05.2021 - 02:41DROPS Design answered:
Hola Irene, la segunda vuelta es correcta, pero la tercera vuelta se trabaja de derecho, con las hebras trabajandose de derecho para que queden agujeros para la línea del raglán. En esta vuelta no se trabajan aumentos. Las mangas se trabajan según el diagrama (donde se incluyen los aumentos) y el delantero y la espalda, se trabajan aumentos cada 2ª fila.
30.05.2021 - 20:45Luigi wrote:
Hi, I am just starting this project, so I would hate to find out mid way that I have completely messed up. After reaching the 90 stitches, I can’t seem to follow your instructions. Do you have a detailed diagram or explanation of where the markers are to be placed, where the thread markers are situated etc. It would really help me, I am a beginner. Thank you. Did anyone else have similar problems?
06.04.2021 - 18:32DROPS Design answered:
Dear Luigi, you should put your stitchmarkers (or marker threads) after you have made the 2 ridges with garter stitch ("Then work as follows; the round starts mid back:"). Before and after each A.1 pattern (= sleeves) there is 2 knit stitch. You put the markers here, and increase to shape the raglan on each side of this 2K stitch on each 4 raglan line. Happy Knitting!
06.04.2021 - 19:25Luigi wrote:
Is there a video for this project.
02.04.2021 - 20:58DROPS Design answered:
Dear Luigi, if you mean a full video for just this project, then no. BUT all the related videoas are linked just below the pattern. Happy Knitting!
03.04.2021 - 20:00