Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
-------------------------------------------------------
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= K from RS, P from WS | |
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2, psso the 2 K sts | |
= 1 YO between 2 sts | |
= slip 5 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 5, K 5 from cable needle | |
= slip 5 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 5, K 5 from cable needle | |
= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle | |
= slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle | |
= this st has been cast off |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Morning Glory |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||
Knitted DROPS jacket with cables and shawl collar in ”Karisma”. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS 158-1 |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K. GARTER ST (in the round on double pointed needles): * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds. DECREASE TIP: Dec 1 st before marker/A.3 as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before marker, P 2 tog. Dec 1 st after marker/A.3 as follows: P 2 tog. PATTERN 1: See diagrams A.1-A.5. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. PATTERN 2: P 7-7-8-8-9-10, A.3, P 7-7-8-8-9-10. PATTERN 3: P 4-5-6-6-7-8, A.3, P 4-5-6-6-7-8. BUTTONHOLES: Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog second and third st from edge and make 1 YO. Dec for buttonholes when piece measures: SIZE S: 31, 39 and 47 cm SIZE M: 31, 39 and 47 cm SIZE L: 31, 39 and 47 cm SIZE XL: 32, 40 and 48 cm SIZE XXL: 32, 40 and 48 cm SIZE XXL: 32, 40 and 48 cm ---------------------------------------------------------- BODY: Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 306-318-334-378-398-418 sts (incl 8 band sts in each side of piece) on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Karisma. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above AT THE SAME TIME on last row inc 44 sts evenly = 350-362-378-422-442-462 sts. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Then work from RS AT THE SAME TIME insert 2 markers and 0-0-0-4-4-4 strands in the piece as follows: Work 8 band sts in garter st, A.2, PATTERN 2 – see explanation above, A.4, P 14-16-16-16-16-16, A.5, pattern 2, A.4, P 0-0-0-8-9-10, insert 1 strand in size XL-XXL-XXXL, A.3 0-0-0-1-1-1 time, insert 1st marker, P 8-9-9-9-9-9, A.3 0-0-0-1-1-1 time, insert 1 strand in size XL-XXL-XXXL, P 0-0-0-8-9-10, A.5, pattern 2, A.4, P 14-16-16-16-16-16, A.5, pattern 2, A.1, P 14-16-16-16-16-16, A.2, pattern 2, A.4, P 14-16-16-16-16-16, A.5, pattern 2, A.4, P 0-0-0-8-9-10, insert 1 strand in size XL-XXL-XXXL, A.3 0-0-0-1-1-1 time, P 8-9-9-9-9-9, insert 2nd marker, A.3 0-0-0-1-1-1 time, insert 1 strand in size XL-XXL-XXXL, P 0-0-0-8-9-10, A.5, pattern 2, A.4, P 14-16-16-16-16-16, A.5, pattern 2, A.1, 8 band sts in garter st. Move the markers and strands upwards when working. Work band sts in garter st until finished measurements. Work K over K sts between cables from WS, i.e. P sts seen from RS. Continue pattern like this. Remember BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 8-10-10-10-10-10 cm, dec as follows: Dec in every section with 14-16-16-16-16-16 P sts by working as follows: P 2 tog, P 10-12-12-12-12-12, P 2 tog (= 10 sts dec in total). Repeat this dec every 5-4-4-4-4-4 cm 6-7-7-7-7-7 more times. NOTE: On last dec work the remaining 2 P tog. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 8-10-10-10-10-10 cm, dec as follows: Dec 1 st after 1st marker and 1 st before 2nd marker - see DECREASE TIP. Repeat this dec every 6-4½-4½-4½-4½-4½ cm 5-6-6-6-6-6 more times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 16 cm, dec as follows in pattern 2: Dec 1 st before A.3 and 1 st after A.3 (= 16 sts dec). Repeat this dec every 10-20-20-20-20-20 cm 2-1-1-1-1-1 more times. AT THE SAME TIME in size XL-XXL-XXXL dec as follows at every strand: Dec 1 st by working the 2 P sts closes to A.3 P tog (= 4 sts dec). Repeat this dec every 20 cm 1 more time. When all dec are done, there are 225-241-257-293-313-333 sts on needle. There are now 2 P st at markers in the sides and 1 P st between A.4 and A.5 and between A.1 and A.2 and 4-5-6-6-7-8 P sts on each side of A.3. When piece measures 44 cm, adjust so that next row is from RS, inc as follows: 8 band sts in garter st, A.2, PATTERN 3 – see explanation above, A.4, P 1, A.5, pattern 3, A.4, P 0-0-0-6-7-8, A.3 0-0-0-1-1-1 time, 1 YO, P 2, 1 YO, A.3 0-0-0-1-1-1 time, P 0-0-0-6-7-8, A.5, pattern 3, A.4, P 1, A.5, pattern 3, A.1, P 1, A.2, pattern 3, A.4, P 1, A.5, pattern 3, A.4, P 0-0-0-6-7-8, A.3 0-0-0-1-1-1 time, 1 YO, P 2, 1 YO, A.3 0-0-0-1-1-1 time, P 0-0-0-6-7-8, A.5, pattern 3, A.4, P 1, A.5, pattern 3, A.1, 8 band sts in garter st (= 4 sts inc). K YOs twisted on next row to avoid holes. Repeat inc every 6th-6th-6th-12th-10th-12th row 5-5-5-3-4-4 more times = 249-265-281-309-333-353 sts. Work inc sts P from RS and K from WS. When piece measures 58-59-60-61-62-63 cm, divide the piece, finish front and back pieces separately as follows: Slip the first and last 66-70-74-81-87-92 sts on a stitch holder for front pieces, cut the yarn, then work only over the middle 117-125-133-147-159-169 sts (= back piece). BACK PIECE: Now cast off for armholes at beg of every row in each side as follows: Cast off 3 sts 1 time, then 2 sts 1-1-1-3-4-4 times and 1 st 1-1-1-4-4-5 times = 105-113-121-121-129-137 sts. Then dec on next row from RS as follows: Dec 1 st before A.3 and 1 st after A.3 0-1-1-1-1-1 time = 105-105-113-113-121-129 sts. When piece measures 73-75-77-79-81-83 cm, dec 5 sts over A.1 and 5 sts over A.2 by working 2 and 2 sts K tog = 95-95-103-103-111-119 sts on needle. Then cast off the middle 25-25-27-27-29-31 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately = 35-35-38-38-41-44 sts remain on each shoulder. When piece measures 75-77-79-81-83-85 cm, dec 3 sts over every A.4 and A.5 (= 9 sts dec) = 26-26-29-29-32-35 sts remain on needle. Cast off. RIGHT FRONT PIECE: = 66-70-74-81-87-92 sts. Now cast off for armhole at beg of every row from the side as follows: Cast off 3 sts 1 time, then 2 sts 1-1-1-3-4-4 times and 1 st 1-1-1-4-4-5 times = 60-64-68-68-72-76 sts. Then dec on next row from RS as follows: Dec 1 st before A.3 and 1 st after A.3 0-1-1-1-1-1 time = 60-60-64-64-68-72 sts on needle. When piece measures 75-77-79-81-83-85 cm, dec 5 sts over A.2 by working 2 and 2 sts K tog and 3 sts over every A.4 and A.5 = 46-46-50-50-54-58 sts. Then cast off the first 26-26-29-29-32-35 sts for shoulder, work the rest of row = 20-20-21-21-22-23 sts. Then work shawl collar in garter st over the remaining sts, beg mid front (1st row = RS) as follows: * Work 2 rows back and forth over the first 12-12-13-13-14-15 sts, work 2 rows back and forth over all sts *, repeat from *-* until shawl collar measures 8-8-9-9-10-10 cm at the shortest. Cast off. LEFT FRONT PIECE: Work as right front piece but reversed. Dec 5 sts over A.1 instead of A.2. Shawl collar beg from WS. SLEEVE: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 48-50-52-54-54-56 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with Karisma. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above AT THE SAME TIME on last round inc 5 sts = 53-55-57-59-59-61 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm. READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! Work as follows: P 4-5-6-7-7-8, A.4, P 33, A.5, finish with P 4-5-6-7-7-8. Insert 1 marker at the beg of the round. On next round move A.4 and A.5 1 st towards the middle as follows: P 4-5-6-7-7-8, 1 YO, A.4, P 2 tog, P 29, P 2 tog, A.5, 1 YO, finish with P 4-5-6-7-7-8. P YO twisted on next round. Move A.4 and A.5 towards the middle 1 st every other round until 1 st remains between A.4 and A.5. Piece measures approx. 12 cm. Continue to work P and A.4/A.5 with 1 P st between until finished measurements. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 10 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker. Repeat inc every 4-3½-2½-2½-2-1½ cm 9-10-12-13-16-17 more times = 73-77-83-87-93-97 sts. When piece measures 49-49-47-47-46-43 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders) cast off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side: Cast off 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 6 times, then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 56-57-56-57-56-55 cm, then cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side AT THE SAME TIME dec 2 sts over every cable. Cast off the remaining sts, piece measures approx. 57-58-57-58-57-56 cm. Knit another sleeve. ASSEMBLY: Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew the collar tog mid back and sew it to the neckline. Sew the buttons on to left band. SHAPING: Moisten piece and place it on a carpet or mattress - carefully stretch it out to measurements. Leave to dry. |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||
Diagram explanations |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||
Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 309 catalogues and 11509 patterns translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (297)
Charlotte Bygballe wrote:
Hvilket garn holder bedst formen efter vask? Uld? Alpaca? eller et blandingsgarn?
04.11.2017 - 15:32DROPS Design answered:
Hej Charlotte, Hvis du følger vaskeanvisningerne, vasker separat, lader det ligge til tørre (ikke hænge) så kan du vaske både Uld og Alpaca og det skal holde formen. God fornøjelse!
13.11.2017 - 14:53Stelilou wrote:
Re bonjour, C'est la ou je comprend pas. étant donnée que l'on fait les manches sur des aiguilles double pointe, si l'on ne fais que des mailles envers entre les torsades , visuellement cela va donné du 'jersey' et a l'identique pour les torsades, si l'on suit le schéma, on va se retrouver avec des torsades en point mousse non ?
13.10.2017 - 15:13DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Stelilou, les manches se tricotent en rond, donc on va tricoter sur l'endroit les mailles telles qu'elles doivent être vues, soit toutes les mailles envers seront tricotées à l'envers et les mailles endroit des torsades à l'endroit tous les tours (voir comment monter les mailles et tricoter en jersey sur aiguilles doubles pointes en vidéo) et pour le point mousse, on va tricoter alternativement 1 tour end et 1 tour env (voir vidéo). Bon tricot!
13.10.2017 - 15:46Stelilou wrote:
Bonjour’ Je voulais une précision concernant les manches. Le tricot est fait en point mousse avec des torsades en jersey. Confirmez vous que les manches c’est le contraire ? C’est à dire les manches en jersey avec des torsades au point mousse ? Merci pour votre réponse.
13.10.2017 - 00:39DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Stelilou, les manches se tricotent comme le dos et les devants, avec une bordure au point mousse en bas des manches, puis avec les torsades en jersey et des mailles envers entre les torsades au début et de chaque côté des torsades. Bon tricot!
13.10.2017 - 09:39Natalie Enderby wrote:
Hi there, the pattern reads- P YO twisted on next round. Could you explain this please? Thank you very much! I love the pattern!
05.10.2017 - 23:06DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Enderby, the video below shows how to increase with a yarn over and how to P the YO twisted on next row (2nd inc done in the video). Happy knitting!
06.10.2017 - 09:23Meg wrote:
Hi..This pattern is something I have never tried before and I need help again. On the part where I need to do A3 in pattern 2. Can you explain the A3 part. thanks for the help!
30.08.2017 - 15:33DROPS Design answered:
Dear Meg, the video below shows how to work this cable - but read the text to the video at the same time (row 1 in the video is row 3 in A.3 in this pattern) - the cable is worked with P3 on each side in the video, remember to follow only the 3 sts in A.3 as in diagram and the remaining sts as in pattern. Happy knitting!
30.08.2017 - 16:52Maura wrote:
I'm almost finished my first sleeve and it says to decrease 2 sts over each cable. Should this be a decrease of 3 sts as in the body?
29.08.2017 - 03:57DROPS Design answered:
Dear Maura, to avoid the cables to be too wide when casting off, decrease 2 sts over each of the cables before casting off: work 1 row decreasing 2 sts over each cable and cast off on next row. Happy knitting!
29.08.2017 - 08:48Marijke Roos wrote:
Als het klopt zoals u voor mij heeft uitgeschreven (waarvoor dank) dan is het achterpand 230 steken en de voorpanden 106 per stuk. (samen dus 212) Dat zou betekenen dat de rug breder wordt dan de voorpanden, terwijl die toch een kleine overslag hebben. Ik veronderstel zelf dus dat de steken zoals het patroon aangeeft voor het achterpand kloppen, maar dat ik 12 steken mis op de voorpanden. (voorpanden worden dan ieder 112 st en het achterpand 212.
27.06.2017 - 17:32DROPS Design answered:
Hoi Marijke, Het klopt dat er meer steken op het achterpand staan. Bij de alinea boven het achterpand (Splits bij een hoogte van .....) zie je dat de steken van voor- en achterpand weer ongeveer gelijk zijn (ook als je de voorbiessteken er af telt)
01.07.2017 - 11:56Marijke Roos wrote:
Jammer dat u mijn vraag niet beantwoord. Er staan gewoon minder steken in het patroon dan dat in totaal wordt aangegeven. Dat heeft niets te maken met de plek van de markeerders.
26.06.2017 - 14:44DROPS Design answered:
Hoi Marijke, Sorry ik begreep je vraag verkeerd. De 106 steken aan de zijkanten (= voorpanden) klopt inderdaad. Daar tussen moeten 230 steken zitten. Ik heb het allemaal nagerekend en zoals het in de beschrijving staat klopt het. Je kunt er niet zomaar steken tussen doen, anders kom je straks niet uit met het patroon. Hier het gedeelte tussen de markeerders uitgeschreven, wat in totaal uit komt op 230 steken: 9 av, 3 st A3, 9 av, 6 st A5, 21 st patroon 2, 6 st A4, 16 av, 6 st A5, 21 st patroon 2, 10 st A1, 16 av, 10 st A2, 21 st patroon 2, 6 st. A4, 16 av, 6 st A5, 21 st patroon 2, 6 st A4, 9 av, 3 st A3, 9 av
26.06.2017 - 20:17Marijke Roos wrote:
Ik brei maat XXL. In het patroon zitten er tussen de markeerders 218 st. en ervoor en erna 106. Dat is samen 430, maar ik heb 442 st. Ik neem aan dat er in de beide voorpanden wat steken missen. Hoe brei ik deze?
20.06.2017 - 23:45DROPS Design answered:
Het totaal aantal steken dat je op de naald hebt (442) klopt (na het opzetten, de 2 ribbels en de 44 steken gemeerderd) Lees nog even goed door op welke punten je de markerders moet plaatsen, misschien heb je iets over het hoofd gezien, waardoor je niet uitkomt.
25.06.2017 - 18:08Glenda Reanick wrote:
The Drops Karisma wool started to fall apart rotted I think did anyone else have this problem?
04.06.2017 - 09:27DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Reanick, should you have any question about the yarn, please contact the store where you bought your yarn, including all informations about colour no and dyelot. Happy knitting!
07.06.2017 - 09:38