DROPS Muskat uni colour 100% Cotton |
3.90 CAD /50g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Muskat uni colour 100% Cotton 3.90 CAD /50g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
DROPS Extra 0-60 |
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DROPS jacket with crochet and embroidered pattern application and raglan sleeve in Muskat. Size S – L.
DROPS Extra 0-60 |
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Rib: * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-*. Garter st, back and forth on needle: K all rows. Crochet and embroidered application: See diagram. Body piece: Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 204-224 sts (includes 1 edge st each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 with Muskat and work 3 cm = 1⅛" Rib with 1 garter st each side. Change to needle size 4 MM = US 6 and continue in stockinette st, at the same time inc 2-2 sts evenly on first row = 206-226 sts. Remember the knitting gauge! When piece measures 33-35 cm = 13"-13¾" work next row as follows: 48-53 sts on front piece, slip 8 sts on a stitch holder for armhole, 94-104 sts on back piece, slip 8 sts on a stitch holder for armhole, 48-53 sts on front piece. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves. Sleeve: Cast on 52-52 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 with Muskat and work 4 cm = 1½" Rib. Change to needle size 4 MM = US 6 and continue in stockinette st, at the same time inc 2 sts mid under arm on * every 9 and 10 * round alternately for size S/M and on every 8th round for size M/L a total of 12-14 times = 76-80 sts. When piece measures 45 cm = 17¾" slip 8 sts mid under arm on a stitch holder = 68-72 sts left on round. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve Yoke: Now slip sleeves on the same circular needle as body pieces where the 8 sts were put on stitch holders = 326-354 sts. Insert a marker in all transitions between sleeves and body pieces = 4 markers. Continue in stockinette st on all sts, at the same time dec for raglan and then V-neck as follows – read all of the following before continuing: Raglan: Make all dec from RS. Work 4 rows without dec. Dec on each side of all markers with 4 stockinette sts between the dec (= 2 sts on each side of marker) Dec 2 sts on each side of all markers (= 16 dec sts per row) on every 4th row until piece measures approx 54-57 cm = 21¼"-22½" = approx 60-70 sts left on row. Dec as follows after marker: slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K3 tog, K1 from cable needle. Dec as follows before marker: slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K1, work sts from cable needle as follows: slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog into back of loop, psso (Dec for raglan on front piece will overlap ded for V-neck) V-neck: At the same time when piece measures 36-38 cm = 14¼"-15" bind off 1 st each side inside the edge st towards mid front a total of 19-20 times. Dec as follows after edge st: K2 tog. Dec as follows before edge st: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso. When all dec for raglan and V-neck are complete slip 30 sts mid back on a stitch holder for neck and complete each side separately. Slip 2 sts towards neckline on the stitch holder on next row. Bind off remaining sts when piece measures 55-58 cm = 21⅝"-22¾". Assembly: Graft tog sts under arm. Front bands and neckline: Pick up approx 157-173 sts (divisible by 4 +1) along left front piece from bottom edge to mid back on needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 with Muskat. Work 2.5 cm = 1" rib with 1 st towards mid back in garter st (for seam), bind off. Repeat along right front piece, but after 1 cm = ⅜" make 6 buttonholes evenly distributed. 1 buttonhole = bind off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts on return row. Sew front band/neckline tog mid back. Sew on buttons. Crochet and embroidered application: Crochet a string of ch measuring 26 cm = 10¼" with pearl grey Cotton Viscose and crochet hook size 3.5 MM = US 4, cut the thread. Beg 10 cm = 4" in from one end and crochet a string of ch measuring 8 cm = 3⅛", cut the thread (= 1 thread with 3 ends). Sew the string to the top of left front piece – see Fig.1 – with light beige Cotton Viscose. Embroider flowers and leafs with light beige after Fig.1. Repeat for bottom of right sleeve, but the first string = 22 cm = 8¾" and the second = 6 cm = 2⅜". |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogs and 11422 patterns - 11417 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (10)
Schuler Denise wrote:
J'ai tricoté le modèle 0-60 .A la fin de l'ouvrage on rabat les mailles des 2 cotés :faut-il reprendre ces mailles quand on tricote la bordure , et alors pourquoi les rabattre ? Merci de votre réponse.
05.08.2023 - 15:06DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Schuler, on rabat les mailles de l'encolure dos pour donner un peu plus de fermeté à l'encolure. Lorsque l'on tricote la bordure des devants/le col, on relève des mailles tout autour de l'ouverture du gilet: en commençant sur l'endroit en bas du devant droit tout le tour jusqu'en bas du devant gauche. Bon tricot!
07.08.2023 - 09:45Huguette Meunier wrote:
Bonjour, pour relever les mailles de l'encolure et du dos , voulez-vous dire 170 mailles sur un coté ou les deux? Doit-on relever toutes les mailles ou 2 sur 3? Le dos aussi? Merci beaucoup
11.06.2021 - 20:13DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Meunier, relevez les mailles de la bordure devant sur l'endroit, en commençant soit en bas du devant jusqu'au milieu dos soit en commençant au milieu dos jusqu'en bas de la bordure devant; les 2 bordures seront assemblées au milieu dos à la fin. Cette vidéo montre comment relever les mailles. Ajustez le nombre de mailles au 1er rang si nécessaire. Bon tricot!
14.06.2021 - 07:50Huguette Meunier wrote:
Est-ce que je fais les diminutions de l'encolure en V tous les 4 rangs ou tous les 2 rangs? Je fais la taille M/L . Est-ce qu'il doit me rester 58 mailles avant de glisser 30 mailles du milieu du des sur un arrêt de maille? Merci beaucoup
27.05.2021 - 00:37DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Meunier, tout dépend de votre tension (nombre de rangs en hauteur), vous devez diminuer pour le raglan 16 mailles tous les 4 rangs jusqu'à ce que l'ouvrage mesure 57 cm; puis 2 x 20 mailles pour l'encolure V et enfin, après les diminutions du raglan: placer en attente 30 mailles pour l'encolure dos + 2 m de chaque côté (= 34 m en attente pour l'encolure dos). Rabattez toutes les mailles restantes à 58 cm. Bon tricot!
27.05.2021 - 09:36Huguette Meunier wrote:
J'aimerais avoir des explications plus claire pour terminer l'encolure j'ai terminé les diminutions du raglan , il me reste 5 diminutions pour l'encolure et la suite je ne comprend pas. Merci
08.02.2021 - 16:18DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Meunier, quand toutes les diminutions du raglan et de l'encolure devant sont faites, glissez en attente sur un fil ou un arrêt de mailles les 30 mailles du milieu dos, terminez chaque côté séparément, et, au rang suivant à partir de l'encolure dos, rabattez 2 mailles. Continuez à tricoter jusqu'à ce que l'ouvrage mesure 55-58 cm et rabattez les mailles restantes. Reprenez les mailles de l'autre côté et terminez de la même façon. Bon tricot!
09.02.2021 - 08:20Judy Bruce wrote:
This is my first knitted sweater and I’m totally confused with these instructions. I’ve finished the body and am ready to start the sleeves. My confusion starts with the 8 stitches on a holder for the arm hole. Do I continue to knit across this row closing the space of these eight stitches?? I wish your tutorials covered more details concerning this pattern. It is not beginner friendly. It assumes I know what to do.
12.12.2020 - 00:31DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Bruce, these 8 stitches mid under arm are slipped on a thread and you just have to cut the yarn, sleeve is now done, slip the remaining stitches (=68 or 72 sts) on a another thread or on another needle and work now the 2nd sleeve. For yoke, slip stitches on sleeve back on needle between front/back piece, the 8 sts on a thread on body should be towards the 8 sts on a thread on sleeve (these 8 sts will be then sewn together). And work yoke as explained. Happy knitting!
14.12.2020 - 07:27Isabelle wrote:
Dommage que vos instructions ne soient jamais claires. On ne sait pas si les manches sont tricotées en rond ou a plat et aucune video pour nous montrer les etapes pour joindre les manches au corps.
09.04.2020 - 23:50DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Isabelle, ce modèle est relativement ancien, raison pour laquelle les explications sont écrites différemment. Les manches se tricotent ici en rond sur les aiguilles doubles pointes jusqu'à ce que l'on rabatte les mailles des emmanchures, on les met ensuite en attente pour tricoter la 2ème et on termine l'empiècement - cette vidéo montre comment mettre les manches et le dos/les devants sur la même aiguille - vous trouverez d'autres vidéos dans la rubrique du même nom à la fin des explications. Bon tricot!
14.04.2020 - 15:00Shiona Dawson wrote:
Thank you for the pattern. Can you clarify the instructions on completing the neck? After putting 30 stitches mid back onto a stitch holder, are these stitches worked at all, or are they just cast off?
05.05.2019 - 17:35DROPS Design answered:
Dear Shiona, sts from stitch holder are worked while working bands - i.e. when you pick up sts for one front band, you continue and put half of stitches from stitch holder back to needle, so you have row from one front bottom edge to mid of back. See "Front bands and neckline" for detailed instructions. Happy knitting!
05.05.2019 - 19:52Ruth wrote:
Hallo Ich würde diese Jacke so gerne stricken......sooooo gerne !!! Aber 53cm ist zu klein! Ich bräuchte wahrscheinlich XL. Wäre es möglich diese Anleitung zu bekommen? Ich würde mich wahnsinnig freuen Ganz lieben Dank
26.04.2019 - 17:39DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Ruth, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder Anfrage anpassen, aber gerne können Sie sich von ähnlichen Modellen inspirieren. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
29.04.2019 - 08:04Elisabeth wrote:
Hej Skal jeg fortsæl flere raglan indtagninger på ryggen efter der ikke er plads til flere indtagninger på forstykket. Der er stadig for mange masker på pinden.
18.01.2019 - 21:49DROPS Design answered:
Hei Elisabeth. Ja, du skal fortsette å felle 2 masker på hver side av merkene på hver 4. pinne til arbeidet måler 54-57. Du feller 16 masker per felleomgang = ca 224 masker felt av til raglan. Samtidig felles det totalt 38-40 masker av til V-hals. Som du sier vil fellingene på forstykket etterhvert gå over fellingene til halskant. Når arbeidet måler 54-57 cm vil du ha ca 60-70 masker på pinnen. God fornøyelse
21.01.2019 - 10:55Monica wrote:
Guten Tag! Ich würde dies Jacke sehr gerne stricken in Größe XXXL (wahrscheinlich). Es gibt leider keine Skizze oder Diagramm oder Angaben zu dieser Größe. Ist es möglich, diese Angaben zu bekommen? Ich bin mir beim umrechnen, gerade was den Raglanteil betrifft, überhaupt nicht sicher, ob das hinterher passen wird. Herzlichen Dank schon vorab!
20.03.2018 - 12:36DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Monica, wir haben eine Maßskizze zu diesem Modell gefunden, damit können Sie die Anleitung an den gewünschten Größe anpasssen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
21.03.2018 - 08:44