Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Mallia Kouvaria - pleko.gr. website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Mallia Kouvaria - pleko.gr. website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= K from RS, P from WS | |
= P from RS, K from WS | |
= P1, 1 YO, K YO into back of loop on next row | |
= P2 tog | |
= from WS: keep the yarn in front of piece (towards you), slip 2 sts as if to P, keep the yarn behind piece | |
= from WS: keep the yarn in front of piece, slip 3 sts as if to P, keep the yarn behind piece | |
= from WS: keep the yarn in front of piece, slip 4 sts as if to P, keep the yarn behind piece | |
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P2, 1 YO, K2 tog into back of loop from cable needle | |
= slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2 tog, 1 YO, P2 from cable needle | |
= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P2, 1 YO, K3 tog into back of loop from cable needle | |
= slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K3 tog, 1 YO, P2 from cable needle | |
= slip 4 sts on cable needle in front of piece, 1 YO, P3, 1 YO, K4 tog into back of loop from cable needle | |
= slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K4 tog, 1 YO, P3 from cable needle, 1 YO |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Ice Storm Cardigan |
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Knitted DROPS jacket with round yoke and cables in ”Karisma”. Size S - XXXL.
DROPS 121-29 |
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GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows. INCREASING TIP: Inc each side of the rib-section each side on body piece and mid under sleeve. Make all inc from RS! Inc 1 st by picking up st from previous row and K this. PATTERN: See diagram M.1 – see diagram for your size. Diagram shows the pattern from RS and row 1 in diagram = RS. BUTTONHOLES: Make buttonholes on right front band. 1 buttonhole = make 1 YO after 4th st from the edge and then K tog 5th and 6th st. Make buttonholes when piece measures: SIZE S: 4, 12, 20, 28, 36, 45 and 54 cm SIZE M: 4, 13, 21, 30, 38, 47 and 56 cm SIZE L: 4, 13, 22, 31, 40, 49 and 58 cm SIZE XL: 5, 13, 21, 29, 37, 45, 53 and 61 cm SIZE XXL: 5, 13, 22, 30, 39, 47, 55 and 63 cm SIZE XXXL: 5, 14, 23, 32, 41, 49, 57, 65 cm -------------------------------------------------------- JACKET: Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. BODY PIECE: Cast on 212-228-260-288-320-352 sts (includes 7 front band sts each side towards front edge) on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Karisma. P 1 row from WS, then continue in rib as follows from RS: 1 GARTER ST - see above, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-* until 9 sts remain, finish with K2, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1 and 1 GARTER ST. Continue like this until piece measures 4 cm. Now insert 2 markers in piece, 56-60-68-76-84-92 sts in from each side. Change to circular needle size 4 mm and continue in stocking st with 7 front band sts each side as before (= 1 garter st, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1 and P1 as seen from RS) and the 14 middle sts each side (i.e. 7 sts each side of marker) in rib (= P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2 and P2). AT THE SAME TIME on first row in stocking st dec 9-9-12-14-16-18 sts evenly on each front piece and 20-20-26-26-30-34 sts evenly on back piece – NOTE: Do not dec on front bands or on the 14 rib sts each side = 174-190-210-234-258-282 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION AND REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES ON RIGHT FRONT BAND! When piece measures 8 cm inc 1 st each side of the 14 rib sts each side – See INCREASING TIP! Repeat the inc on every 7 cm a total of 4 times = 190-206-226-250-274-298 sts. When piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm work next row as follows from RS: work 44-48-53-59-65-71 sts (= right front piece), cast off the 14 rib sts (i.e. 7 sts each side of marker), work 74-82-92-104-116-128 sts (= back piece), cast off the 14 rib sts (i.e. 7 sts each side of marker) and work the remaining 44-48-53-59-65-71 sts (= left front piece). Put piece aside and knit the sleeves. SLEEVE: Cast on 56-56-60-60-64-64 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with Karisma. K 1 round, then work rib, K2/ P2. When rib measures 10 cm change to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work next round as follows: K2, P2, K2, P2, then stocking st until 6 sts remain on round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-4-6-6-8-8 sts evenly on these stocking sts, finish with P2, K2 and P2 = 50-52-54-54-56-56 sts. Continue like this with stocking st and 14 rib sts mid under sleeve. When piece measures 13-12-11-12-11-14 cm inc 2 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. 1 st each side of rib section) – See INCREASING TIP! Repeat the inc on every 2.5-2.5-2.5-2-2-1.5 cm a total of 12-13-14-16-17-19 times = 74-78-82-86-90-94 sts. When piece measures 45 cm for all sizes cast off the 14 rib sts mid under sleeve = 60-64-68-72-76-80 sts. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve. YOKE: Slip sleeves on the same circular needle as body piece where cast off for armhole = 282-306-334-366-398-430 sts. Work 2-3-4-2-3-4 cm stocking st (with front bands as before). AT THE SAME TIME after 1 cm stocking st dec 4-6-6-0-5-10 sts evenly – do not dec on front bands. Repeat the dec in Size L + XXL + XXXL after another 1-1-2 cm stocking st = 278-300-322-366-388-410 sts. Work next row as follows from RS: 7 front band sts as before, work M.1 (= 22 sts – see diagram for your size) a total of 12-13-14-16-17-18 times and finish with 7 front band sts as before. Continue pattern like this AT THE SAME TIME dec as shown in diagram. After M.1 there are 98-105-112-126-133-140 sts left on needle. ELEVATION MID BACK: Insert a marker mid on needle (i.e. in SIZE S + L + XL + XXXL between the 2 middle sts and in SIZE M + XXL in the middle st on needle = mid back). Beg from WS by marker and work K over K and P over P until 18 sts remain on needle (i.e. stop just before P2 as seen from WS), turn piece, slip first st, tighten thread and work row until 19 sts remain on needle (i.e. stop just before K2 as seen from RS). Turn piece, slip first st, tighten thread and work row until 25-25-25-32-32-32 sts remain on needle (i.e. stop just before P2 as seen from WS), turn piece, slip first st, tighten thread and work row until 26-26-26-33-33-33 sts remain (i.e. stop just before K2 as seen from RS). Turn piece, slip first st, tighten thread and work row until 32-32-32-46-46-46 sts remain on needle (i.e. stop just before P2 as seen from WS), turn piece, slip first st, tighten thread and work row until 33-33-33-47-47-47 sts remain ( i.e. stop just before K2 as seen from RS). Turn piece, slip first st, tighten thread and work row until 39-39-39-52-52-52 sts remain on needle (i.e. stop just before P2 as seen from WS), turn piece, slip first st, tighten thread and work row until 40-40-40-53-53-53 sts remain (i.e. stop just before K2 as seen from slip from RS. SIZE S + M + L finish here, cut the thread. SIZE XL + XXL + XXXL: Turn piece, slip first st, tighten thread and work row until 59 sts remain on needle (i.e. stop just before P2 as seen from WS), turn piece, slip first st, tighten thread and work row until 60 sts remain (i.e. stop just before K2 as seen from RS), cut the thread. NECKLINE: Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Beg from RS and K 2 rows on all sts (work front bands as before), AT THE SAME TIME on last row inc 11-10-9-4-3-2 sts evenly = 109-115-121-130-136-142 sts. Continue in rib as follows from RS: 7 front band sts as before, * K2, P1 *, repeat from *-* until 9 sts remain, finish with K2 and 7 front band sts as before. Continue like this until neckline measures 4-5 cm. Cast off with K over K and P over P. ASSEMBLY: Sew openings under sleeves. Sew on buttons. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (36)
Lynette wrote:
Thanks for getting back.Im sorry my real problem is the first symbol on graph the 4 sts slipped I've tried it's the yarn front and back I dont get .does yarn come back to front after slipping sts leaving loop in front .does this stitch have a name . beautiful cardigan love to finish it .had visions of making 2nd one for a gift .
24.04.2023 - 23:30DROPS Design answered:
Dear Lynette, on the 7th symbol, work as follows from wrong side: place yarn towards you (towards wrong side of piece), slip the next 4 stitches as if to purl (without working them ), place the yarn away from you and knit the next stitches as shown in diagram. Happy knitting!
25.04.2023 - 08:45Lynette wrote:
Pattern graph 4 sts as to purl yarn behind, the jumper version is different do you have visual explanation as to do this
23.04.2023 - 00:03DROPS Design answered:
Dear Lynette, this symbol is different because it's worked on a wrong side row on the jacket (and since jumper is worked in the round, this is worked on a right side row on jumper). Happy knitting!
24.04.2023 - 10:47Pat wrote:
For the mid elevation do you start knitting from the marker to the end and then turn Do you have to do the elevation ?
24.02.2023 - 20:23DROPS Design answered:
Dear Pat, if you don't want to work an elevation, you can skip it and go to NECKLINE directly. Happy knitting!
26.02.2023 - 22:50Pat wrote:
If the diagram shows right side stitches only, what stitches do you do on the wrong side
16.02.2023 - 13:55DROPS Design answered:
Dear Pat, the diagrams shows all the rows, seen from RS, this means read them from the bottom corner on the right side towards the left from RS and from the left towards the right from WS - and see symbols to know if you have to K or P the stitches from WS. Happy knitting!
16.02.2023 - 14:02Lynette Bailey wrote:
How can I purl wrong side circular needle ,back to start right side pattern 121/29 first row.
18.09.2022 - 08:53DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Bailey, from wrong side read the diagram left towards the right and work as explained by the symbols: x = knit from wrong side, white = purl from wrong side. Happy knitting!
19.09.2022 - 11:43Lyne Roberts wrote:
I posted question this morning but scrolled down further & all information was written so thankyou.
04.07.2022 - 02:55Lyne Roberts wrote:
Would like to know what size is M as I'm 36 in bust.Is size suitable. PS love yor designs
04.07.2022 - 00:24DROPS Design answered:
Hi Lyne, You can find a measurements chart at the bottom of the pattern showing all the measurements for the different sizes. Happy crafting!
04.07.2022 - 07:03Joke wrote:
Ronding middenachter moet je draad opnieuw aanhechten of doorgaan met draad waar je mee bezig bent en daar van uit verder breien. Ik vind dit best onduidelijk
17.10.2021 - 15:03DROPS Design answered:
Dag Joke,
Volgens het patroon begin je inderdaad midden achter bij de markeerdraad, dus de draad opnieuw aanhechten.
19.10.2021 - 13:20Eva Granér wrote:
Önskar sticka en kofta i Kashmir men hittar så få mönster. Kan ni hjälpa mig hitta flera och vad kostar det garnet? Vill sticka enfärgat och är mycket känslig för klåda av ull. (Har stickat av Viking eco Highland wool som jag tycker kliar.)
22.08.2021 - 12:37DROPS Design answered:
Hej Eva. Vi har dessvärre inget garn i kashmir, eller är det något annat garn du tänkte på? Mvh DROPS Design
24.08.2021 - 09:45Bubi wrote:
Hej jeg skal i gang med mønster M1 hvor mange maske er der mellem de 22 mønster masker På forhånd tak Bubbi
06.01.2021 - 11:50DROPS Design answered:
Hej Bubi, for hver gang du har strikket de 22 masker i M.1 starter du forfra i M1 og det gør du hele vejen rundt. God fornøjelse!
11.01.2021 - 13:13