DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 67-20
Sizes: Small/Medium - Medium/Large - Extra Large
Finished measurements: 92-104-118 cm [36.25" - 41" - 46.5"]

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
200-200-250 g. col. no. 7815, green/turquoise
100-150-150 g. col. no. 7300, lime
100-100-100 g. col. no. 3900, tomato
50 - 50 - 50 g. col. no. 2923, goldenrod

and use: DROPS COTTON-VISCOSE from Garnstudio
50-50-50 g. col. no. 06, rust.

6 DROPS «Telemark» button nr 611

DROPS 2.5 mm [US 1.5] and 3.5 mm [US 4] circular and double-pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Gauge: 23 sts x 30 rows on larger needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm [4" x 4"]

Border: Knit 3 cm [1.25"] stockinette st, 1 row reverse stockinette st (folding edge - measure the work from here), 3 cm [1.25"] stockinette st.

Pattern: See charts (1 chart = 1 repeat). The pattern is seen from the right side and is knit entirely in stockinette st.

Body: The cardigan is knit in the round after the border with steeks cut for armholes and at center front. Cast on 213-243-273 sts on smaller circular needles with green/turquoise, knit border - see instructions above. Change to larger circular needles; inc 3 sts at center front and join = 216-246-276 sts (the 5 sts at center front are for the steek and are not knit in the pattern).
Knit Pattern 1 over all sts (except 5 steek sts) 1 time, then Pattern 2 to finished dimensions.

When the piece measures 34-35-36 cm [13-3/8" - 13.75" - 14-1/8"] knit the next row as follows: 5 steek sts, 48-54-61 sts for the front, bind off 10-12-14 sts for armhole, 95-109-121 sts for the back, bind off 10-12-14 sts for armhole, 48-54-61 sts for the front. On the next row cast on 5 sts over the bound off armhole sts at each side (these sts are for the armhole steeks and are not knit in pattern). Dec 1 st for armhole at each side of the 5 steek sts as follows: 0-3-8 times every row, then 2-6-7 times every other row = 198-196-198 sts.

When the piece measures approx. 47-49-51 cm [18.5" - 19.25" - 20"] bind off the center 20-20-22 + 5 steek sts for the front neck = 173-171-171 sts and knit the rest back and forth on needles. Bind off at each neck edge every other row: 2 sts 3-3-3 times, 1 st 4-4-4 times = 153-151-151 sts. When the piece measures 52-54-56 cm [20.5" - 21.25" - 22"] bind off the center 33-35-35 sts for the back neck. Bind off at each back neck edge every other row: 2 sts 1-1-1 time and 1 st 1-1-1 time = 57-55-55 sts each side. Bind off when the piece measures 54-56-58 cm [21.25" - 22" - 22 7/8"].

Sleeve: Cast on 60-60-60 sts on smaller double-pointed needles with green/turquoise; join and place a marker at the join. Knit border - see instructions above.
Change to larger double pointed needles and knit Pattern 4 and then Pattern 5. After Pattern 5 is complete, the piece measures approx. 15-15-15 cm [5 7/8"]. Knit the rest of the sleeve in Pattern 2. After Pattern 5 inc 1 st each side of marker 14-16-18 times:
Size S/M: alternately every 7th and 8th rows
Size M/L: every 6 rows,
Size Extra Large: every 5 rows = 88-92-96 sts - knit the increased sts in pattern as you go along.

When the piece measures 50-48-46 cm [19.75" - 18 7/8" - 18 1/8"] separate piece at marker and knit the rest back and forth on needles. When the piece measures 52-50.5-49 cm [20.5" - 19-7/8" - 19.25"] put sts on a st holder at each side every other row as follows: 3 sts 2-2-2 times, 2 sts 1-2-2 times, 1 st 0-2-6 times, 2 sts 1-2-2 times and 3 sts 2-2-2 times. The piece measures approx. 56-57-58 cm [22" - 22.5" - 22-7/8"].
Put all sts back on needles and knit 2-2-2 cm [0.75"] reverse stockinette st in green, increasing 10 sts evenly distributed across the first row. Bind off.

Assembly: Sew a marker thread in the center of the steek sts on either side and at the center front. Sew two machine seams around the marker thread, 1st seam = 1/2 st from the marker thread, 2nd seam = 1/2 st from first seam. Cut steeks for armholes and at the center front. Sew shoulder seams.

Button band + neckband: Pick up sts along left button band and around neck to center back. Pick up approx. 165 - 180 sts with green/turquoise on smaller circular needles. Knit Pattern 3, increasing 2 sts in the corner between button band and neck on the first row. Repeat the inc every other row. After Pattern 3 knit 1 row reverse stockinette st (seen from the right side) for the folding edge. Then knit 9 rows stockinette st for the facing in Pattern 3 but reverse the colors (start at the top of the chart and work down), decreasing 2 sts in the corner between the button band and neck every other row. Bind off.

Repeat along right front and neck, but after 1 cm [3/8"] space 6-6-6 buttonholes evenly distributed along button band (1 buttonhole = bind off 2 sts, cast on 2 new sts over the bound off sts on the next row). Make corresponding buttonholes on the facing. Sew together the neck band at center back. Fold band against the wrong side and stitch down. Fold the borders at the bottom edges of body and sleeves against the wrong side and stitch down. Sew in sleeves, fold the seam allowance over the cut edges on Body and stitch down. Sew in buttons.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = green/turquoise
symbols = lime
symbols = tomato
symbols = rust
symbols = goldenred
symbols = M.4 + M.6 + M5
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 67-20

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (23)

country flag Monique wrote:

Goedendag, kan ik voor dit patroon ook Fabel garden gebruiken of kom ik dan met de steeks in de problemen met een superwash garen? MVG Monique

19.12.2023 - 19:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Monique,

DROPS Fabel valt in dezelfde garencategorie (/dikte), dus daar kun je het prima mee vervangen. Maak voor de zekerheid wel even een proeflapje.

20.12.2023 - 18:45

country flag Pascale wrote:

Pour le modèle DROPS 67-20 Tangelwood.Comment faire quand on ne peut pas faire de mailles Speek ?

03.12.2023 - 07:58

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Pascale, ajoutez 1 maille lisière de chaque côté au début et de chaque côté du dos/côté emmanchure des devants lors de la division pour les emmanchures? Bon tricot!

04.12.2023 - 08:09

country flag Hillary wrote:

The instructions in the pattern say to follow pattern 1, then pattern 2. But the diagrams are labelled m2, m3 etc. Please clarify, as reading the pattern as it stands makes no sense. I have knitted several of your patterns, with great success. Hope this one will be no different! Many thanks

30.11.2023 - 20:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Hillary, The M.1 and M.2 are the same as pattern 1 and pattern 2. Happy knitting!

01.12.2023 - 07:52

country flag Christina wrote:

Hi, I have just read Lisa's question above. Please can you clarify how the stitch number in the body (213) works when the pattern is a 15/30 stitch repeat? Do I miss 1 stitch at the start of the pattern and end 2 stitches from the end of the last repeat, rather than completing it? I am super-excited to be making this so want to make sure I do everything right! Thank you.

11.01.2023 - 15:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Christina, you cast on 213 sts then work folded ege, then cast on 3 sts on mid front = 216 sts and work the 5 middle stitches (= the 3 new sts + 1 st on each side) won't be work in the pattern, so that there are 211 sts worked as follows: repeat the diagram over 15/30 sts and finish with the first stitch in the diagram to let the pattern being symmetrical. Happy knitting!

11.01.2023 - 15:17

country flag Carina wrote:

1. Stickas kanten fram o tillbaka och runt först när mönstret börjar? 2. Det står ”öka 3 msk på första varvet” - är det första varvet på kanten el mönstret?

21.06.2022 - 08:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Carina. Ja det stämmer. Kanten stickas fram och tillbaka. Efter kanten börjar du sticka runt samtidigt som du då på första varvet ökar 3 m mitt fram (dessa m + 2 kantm = 5 m är till att klippa upp i efteråt och stickas inte in i mönstret). Mvh DROPS Design

21.06.2022 - 11:50

country flag Carolien Van De Glind wrote:

Als je iedere naald mindert en iedere 2e naald, dan klopt het patroon toch niet meer? Dan verspringt het toch? Wat doe ik om dat te voorkomen.

06.06.2022 - 07:12

country flag Carolien Van De Glind wrote:

Als je voor de mouwen hebt afgekant en in de volgende baan weer 5 steken hebt gemeerderd voor het doorknippen moet je daarna 3x 1steek afkanten voor het armsgaten en nog 6x 1 steek. Hoe doe je dat zodat het patroon blijft doorlopen?

05.06.2022 - 18:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Carolien,

Je laat het patroon zo ver mogelijk doorlopen, maar waar er steken zijn geminderd kun je natuurlijk niet verder breien. Het gaat erom dat het patroon in de hoogte doorloopt.

05.06.2022 - 20:34

country flag Hazel Gunn wrote:

What are “steeks” there is no such word in the English language?

23.03.2022 - 15:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Gunn, the "steeks" stitches are extra stitches cast on and cut afterwards to allow you continuing working in the round - see video for steeks on armholes + on front bands. Happy knitting!

23.03.2022 - 16:26

country flag Laura Stel wrote:

Ik zou graag dit vest maken maar waarom wordt er voor de kleur roest een andere garen kwaliteit gebruikt? Kan dit niet met alpaca of moeten de randen met een sterkere wol?

22.02.2022 - 16:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Laura,

Klopt, hiervoor wordt Cotton Viscose gebruikt en dit is helaas uit de handel. Waarschijnlijk is hier destijds voor gekozen vanwege het glanzend karakter van dat garen. Je zou daarvoor in de plaats daarvan gewoon 1 bol Alpaca kunnen nemen in die kleur.

22.02.2022 - 18:50

country flag Diana wrote:

Hallo daar. Bij een mouwhoogte van 50-48-46 cm de mouw verder afbreien. Kklopt dit? . Ik verwacht bij een grotere maat 50 cm aan te houden . Hartelijke breigroet

03.12.2021 - 16:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Diana,

Dat klopt hoor, de grotere maten hebben een langere mouwkop en een kortere mouw. (Zie ook de maattekening onderaan het patroon.)

08.12.2021 - 10:35