DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.35$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 89-15
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL

Finished measurements:
Bust: 90-98-108-118-130 cm
[35-3/8" - 38-5/8" - 42.5" - 46.5" - 51-1/8"]
Hem: 84-92-102-112-124 cm
[33" - 36.25" - 40-1/8" - 44" - 48-7/8"]

Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT
650-700-800-850-950 gr nr 08, natural

Yarn information and alternatives -- see last page.

DROPS 4 mm [US F] crochet hook, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

6 DROPS Pearl shell buttons, nr 522

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.35$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

Crochet gauge: 19 dc in width and approx. 8 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm.
Crochet info: Replace the first dc of each row with a ch 3 and end every row with 1 dc in the ch 3 from previous row.

Lace Pattern: See Diagram. The pattern is seen from the right side.

Structure Pattern: Crochet only in the front of each st, that is, not through the entire st. This forms the stripe effect.

Decreasing tips (for armhole and neck):
Dec as follows at start of row: replace 1 dc with 1 sl st. Dec as follows at end of row: turn piece when 1 dc remains, then crochet back.


Back: Ch 119-133-146-160-178 (incl. ch 3 for turning). Crochet the first row as follows: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, * skip over 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the following 2 ch *, repeat * - * across row (in sizes S + L end with 1 dc in last ch) = 79-88-97-106-118 dc, turn the work.
Now crochet Structure Pattern – see instructions above – with 1 dc in each dc.
When the piece measures 8-8-8-9-9 cm crochet Lace Pattern following chart (Diag.1), and then continue with dc in Structure Pattern as before (crochet 2 dc in each ch-loop and 1 dc between each dc-group – see chart – be sure that you have 79-88-97-106-118 dc).
On 2nd row after Diagr.1 inc at each side by crocheting 1 extra dc in the next to outermost dc at each side.
Repeat inc when the piece measures 22 and 30 cm = 85-94-103-112-124 dc.
When the piece measures 31-31-32-32-33 cm crochet Lace Pattern again, and then continue with dc in Structure Pattern to finished measurements.
At the same time when the piece measures 37-38-39-40-41 cm bind off for armhole at each side every row – see decreasing tips above: 3 dc 1-1-1-2-3 times, 2 dc 2-3-4-4-5 times and 1 dc 1-2-3-3-4 times = 69-72-75-78-78 dc.
When the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62 cm (2 rows remain), crochet 1 row over only 24-25-26-27-27 st at each side (do not crochet over the center 21-22-23-24-24 dc = neck). On the next row (last row) dec 1 dc at neck edge = 23-24-25-26-26 dc remain on each shoulder. Cut yarn and fasten, the piece measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64 cm.

Left front: Ch 61-65-74-79-88 (incl. 3 ch to turn with). Crochet the first row as follows: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, * skip over 1 ch, 1 in each of the 2 following ch *, repeat * - * across row (I Sizes M + L finish with 1 dc in last ch) = 40-43-49-52-58 dc, turn the work.
Now crochet Structure Pattern and Lace Pattern as on back.
On the 2nd row after Lace Pattern is crocheted the first time inc at the side as on back = 43-46-52-55-61 dc. When the piece measures 37-38-39-40-41 cm bind off for armhole at the side as on back = 35-35-38-38-38 dc.
When the piece measures 49-51-52-54-56 cm bind off the outermost 8-7-9-8-8 dc at center front edge for neck – see decreasing tips above. Continue to bind off for the neck every row: 2 dc 1 time and 1 dc 2 times = 23-24-25-26-26 st remain on shoulder. Continue until piece is the same length as back. Cut yarn and fasten.

Right front: Crochet the same as the left, reversing shaping.

Sleeve: Ch 63-63-71-71-75 loosely (incl. 6 ch for turning with). Crochet the first row as follows: 1 dc in 7th ch from hook, * skip over 3 ch, 1 dc in the next ch, ch 3, 1 dc in the same ch *, repeat * - * = 15-15-17-17-18 dc-groups, turn the work.
Crochet the 2 following rows as follows: ch 1, 1 sl st in first ch-loop, ch 6, 1 dc in same ch-loop, in each of the following 14-14-16-16-17 ch-loops crochet 1 dc, ch 3 and 1 dc.
After these 3 rows are crocheted, continue in the same manner, but now with only ch 2 between dc instead of ch 3.
When the piece measures 15 cm continue with dc in Structure Pattern (2 dc in each ch-loop and 1 dc between each dc-group but in the last ch-loop crochet only 1 dc – see chart) = 43-43-49-49-52 dc.
When the piece measures 16 cm inc at each side by crocheting 1 extra dc in the next to outermost dc at each side. Repeat inc when the piece measures 18 and 21 cm = 49-49-55-55-58 dc.
When the piece measures 22 cm crochet Lace Pattern, then continue with dc in Structure Pattern.
When the piece measures 27 cm inc at each side again in the same way as before. Repeat inc every 2.5-1.5- 1.5-1-1 cm (in Sizes XL + XXL this will be every row) 5-8-8-11-11 times more = 61-67-73-79-82 dc.
When the piece measures 42-42-41-40-40 cm crochet Lace Pattern again, then continue with dc in Structure Pattern to finished measurements.
When the piece measures 47-47-46-45-45 cm bind off for sleeve cap at each side every row: 4 dc 1 time and 3 dc 1 time, then bind off 2 dc at each side until the piece measures approx. 55-56-56-56-57 cm, and then bind off 3 dc 1 time at each side. Cut yarn and fasten, the piece measures approx. 56-57-57-57-58 cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams edge to edge with small sts. Sew in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams in one.

Crocheted edge around sleeves: Crochet 1 row around lower edge of each sleeve as follows: 1 sc in first ch-loop, * ch 5, 1 sc in the next ch-loop *, repeat * - * and finish with ch 5 and 1 sl st in 1st sc at start of row.

Left buttonband: Crochet 4 rows sc along left front (there should be approx. 2 to 3 sc in each dc) = approx. 78-135 sc (turn each row with ch 1) – see that the buttonband is not too tight or too loose.

Right buttonband: Crochet the same as the left, but after the 2nd row make 6 buttonholes evenly spaced. The bottom buttonhole should be approx. 10 cm from lower edge and the top one 2 sc from top edge.
1 buttonhole = ch 2, skip over 2 sc, 1 sc in the next sc. On the next row crochet 2 sc in ch-loop.

Collar: Crochet approx. 64-76 sc (divisible by 3 + 1) around the neck (not over buttonbands). Start on wrong side so that the edge is concealed when the collar folds out. Crochet Lace Pattern. After 1st row of chart inc at each side by crocheting 1 extra dc-group in the next to outermost ch-loop at each side every other row.
At the same time inc 3 extra dc-groups evenly distributed from shoulder to shoulder on back neck every other row.
When the collar measures approx. 8-9-9-10-10 cm crochet 1 row with ch-loops in the same manner as sleeves.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = ch 1
symbols = 1 dc
symbols = 1 sl st
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Greet Horemans wrote:

Hallo, de beschrijving van het telpatroon komt niet overeen met de uitleg. Er staat 2stokjes in het boogje en 1 stokje op elk stokje. De tekening toont aan...2 stokjes in het boogje en maar 1 stokje tussen de boogjes. Als je de beschrijving volgt krijg je veel te veel steken. Mvg Greet

23.01.2023 - 14:26

country flag Jette wrote:

Er der en sværheds kode på jeres opskrifter?? Kan desværre ikke se om der er. Er vild med jeres side og alle de muligheder der er for hjælp. Men mangler sværhedsgraden

25.07.2020 - 19:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Jette, Vi har nogle "begynder-opskrifter" hvis man er ny. Ellers vil vi ikke kategorisere i sværhedsgrad, da det er meget individuelt hvad som er svært. Husk at vi har videoer til alle opskrifter og at vi gerne hjælper til her i bloggen. God fornøjelse!

27.07.2020 - 15:55

country flag Maribel wrote:

Hola. Al hacer el escote de la espalda dice: trabajar 1 fila sobre unicamente 24 pts a cada lado (no trabajar sobre los 21 p.a. centrales = escote). ¿Se hacen puntos bajísimos sobre los puntos centrales para pasar al otro lado o bien hago un lado y posteriormente cojo otra hebra y hago el otro lado? Muchas gracias.

17.07.2018 - 22:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Maribel. Cada hombro se trabaja por separado. Se corta el hilo después de trabajar un hombro y se empieza otro hombro con hilo nuevo.

18.07.2018 - 21:40

country flag Demartin wrote:

Pourquoi faut-il crocheter le dos et les manches avec un crochet 4 et les devants avec un crochet 3 ? Les hauteurs des rangs ne correspondent donc pas pour l’assemblage des pièces. Merci de votre réponse

13.02.2018 - 20:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Demartin, les explications ont été corrigées, on utilise bien un crochet 4 pour les devants, comme pour le dos et les manches. Bon crochet!

14.02.2018 - 08:41

Janet Castle wrote:

I like to use an alternative foundation chain when making garments, but I am wondering if the skip 1 chain in the first row will look strange if I don't use the chains to begin with as follows: (Ch 119-133-146-160-178 (incl. ch 3 for turning). Crochet the first row as follows: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, * skip over 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the following 2 ch *, repeat * - * across row (in sizes S + L end with 1 dc in last ch) = 79-88-97-106-118 dc, turn the work.)

01.08.2016 - 15:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Castle, skipping some chains on 1st row as done here allows to get a nice bottom edge, not that tight. Check on a swatch your alternative fundation chain and if it isn't too tight, you can then cast on the number of dc given for each size on 1st row, ie 79-88-97-106-118 dc. Happy crocheting!

02.08.2016 - 09:05

country flag Lopez Christel wrote:

Bonjour,Je ne trouve pas le même nombre de maille pour les diminutions d emmanchures .Je fais la taille M , j'ai 94 brides moins 1 fois 1 B , 3 fois 2 B et 2 fois 1 B .il reste 76 B et pas 72comme dans les explications . Ai je mal compris où es ce une erreur ? Merci

04.06.2016 - 17:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lopez, une erreur s'était glissée dans la 1ère diminution des emmanchures, on diminue 1 fois 3 B (et non 1B), on a ainsi un total de 11 m diminuée pour chaque emmanchure et un total de 72 B en taille M. Bon crochet!

06.06.2016 - 09:13

country flag Michelle Meyers wrote:

I'm having trouble interpreting the lace pattern diagram. The symbols and presentation are unusual to me, perhaps a result of different countries. I'm able to produce a lace-like pattern that looks similar, but I don't see where the slip stitch fits in? I am placing two double crochets (separated by two chains) within the same stitch. Advice appreciated!

21.04.2012 - 23:11

DROPS Design answered:

1st row: ch 3 + ch 2, 1 dc in first dc, *skip 2 dc, in next dc work 1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc*, repeat til end of row. 2nd row: ch 1, 1 sl st in first ch space, then ch 3 + ch 2, 1 dc in ch space, *in next chain space work 1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc*, repeat til end of row. Repeat row 2 for pattern.

23.04.2012 - 20:05

country flag Drops Design wrote:

Valerine, I'm guessing you mean the dec for armhole. For smallest size you dec 3 dc 1 time, 2 dc 2 times, 1 dc 1 time. Dec.tips tells you how to dec: replace 1 dc with 1 sl st. Dec as follows at end of row: turn piece when 1 dc remains, then crochet back.

07.12.2009 - 17:45

country flag Valerine wrote:

I am trying to figure out what the instructions mean where the pattern lists the following instructions: "3 dc 1-1-1-2-3 times, 2 dc 2-3-4-4-5 times and 1 dc 1-2-3-3-4 times = 69-72-75-78-78 dc" Does it mean to do 3 dc in a single stitch 1 time, then 2 dc in single stitch twice, etc? Thanks for your help!

06.12.2009 - 08:42

country flag Anette wrote:

Hur ska man läsa diagrammet? Vad betyder kjm och km?

28.01.2008 - 21:08