DROPS 158-42
DROPS design: Pattern no db-047
Yarn group C or A + A
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NECK WARMER:
Size: S/M – M/L – L/XL
Measurements: Circumference: 66-70-74 cm / 26"-27½"-29" Height mid front: 34-40-42 cm / 13½"-15 3/4"-16½"
Materials:
DROPS BIG DELIGHT from Garnstudio
200 g for all sizes in color no 12, jeans blue/teal

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 5 mm / H/8 – or size needed to get 14 dc x (5 dc rows + 4 sc rows) = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

HEAD BAND:
Size: S/M – M/L – L/XL
Head circumference: 54/56 – 56/58 – 58/60 cm / 21½"-22½"-23".
Materials:
DROPS BIG DELIGHT from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes in color no 12, jeans blue/teal

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 5 mm / H/8 – or size needed to get 14 tr x (4 tr rows + 4 sc rows) = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

WRIST WARMERS:
Size: S/M – M/L – L/XL
Measurements: Circumference: 16-17-18 cm / 6 1/4"-6 3/4"-7" Length: 18-19-20 cm / 7"-7½"-8"
Materials:
DROPS BIG DELIGHT from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes in color no 12, jeans blue/teal

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 5 mm / H/8 – or size needed to get 14 tr x (4 tr rows + 4 sc rows) = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

For the entire set: 200-300-300 g

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first sc at beg of every sc row with 1 ch.
Replace first dc at beg of every dc row with 3 ch.
Replace first tr at beg of every tr row (does not apply to neck warmer) with 4 ch.
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NECK WARMER:
Worked back and forth, bottom up. Work 3 ch on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with Big Delight and form 1 ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch.
ROW 1 (= RS): Work 3 ch + 4 dc in ch-ring. Turn.
ROW 2 (= WS): READ CROCHET INFO! Work 1 sc in every dc. Turn.
ROW 3: Work 5 ch + 2 tr + 1 dc in 1st sc, 1 dc in every sc until 1 sc remains, work 1 dc + 2 tr + 1 dtr in last sc. Turn.
ROW 4: Work 1 sc in every st. Turn. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
Repeat 3rd and 4th row until there are 47-53-53 sc on row – adjust after a row with sc (WS) and work 23-23-26 LOOSE ch at the end of this row * – DO NOT cut the yarn (continue from here later)! Use another strand and work new ch in 1st sc on same row as follows: Work 1 sl st + 23-23-26 LOOSE ch – cut this strand and pull it through last st = 93-99-105 sts on row. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Continue from * as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): Work 1 dc in every ch and sc = 93-99-105 dc. Turn.
ROW 2 (= WS): Work 1 sc in every dc. Turn.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row until piece measures approx. 18-22-24 cm / 7"-8 3/4"-9½".
Cut the yarn (keep some yarn for assembly). Neck warmer measures approx. 34-40-42 cm / 13½"-15 3/4"-16½" vertically mid front.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog short sides.
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HEAD BAND:
Worked back and forth and sewn tog when finished.
Work 69-72-74 LOOSE ch on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with Big Delight.
ROW 1 (= WS): READ CROCHET INFO! Work 1 sc in every ch, turn.
ROW 2 (= RS): Work 1 tr in every sc.
Repeat these 2 rows 4 times in total - REMEMBER CROCHET GAUGE. Repeat 1st row 1 more time. Piece measures approx. 10.5 cm / 4 1/4" vertically and 49-51-53 cm / 19 1/4"-20"-21" in width. Cut the yarn (keep some yarn for assembly). Then work a ribbon as follows: Work 7 ch. Turn and work 1 sc in every st. Continue with 1 sc in every sc until piece measures approx. 10 cm / 4'' - keep some yarn for assembly.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog short sides of ribbon to form 1 ring and thread it on to head band. Sew tog short sides on head band to form 1 ring.
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WRIST WARMER:
Work back and forth, bottom up and sew tog in the side, then work thumb.
Work 22-24-25 LOOSE ch on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with Big Delight.
ROW 1 (= WS): READ CROCHET INFO! Work 1 sc in every ch, turn.
ROW 2 (= RS): Work 1 tr in every sc, turn.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row 2 times in total - REMEMBER CROCHET GAUGE.
Work 2-3-4 rows with 1 sc in every sc. Then repeat 1st and 2nd row 1 time. Insert 1 marker in the side (pick up sts for thumb hole later). Repeat 1st and 2nd row until piece measures approx. 18-19-20 cm / 7"-7½"-8", adjust after row 1.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold wrist warmer double, sew tog edge to edge along the side through both layers from beg of piece until marker. Fasten the strand. Measure 3-3½-4 cm / 1"-1 1/4"-1½" (thumb hole) up to marker and sew from here and up to edge.
Work around the thumb hole as follows: 1 sl st, * ch 1, 8-10-11 sc around thumb hole, finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc *, repeat from *-* 2 times in total. Then work 1 round while at the same time inc 2 sc evenly by working 2 sc in same sc = 10-12-13 sc. Fasten off.
Work another wrist warmer the same way.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Renata Groen-Hoogendoorn wrote:

Ik wil de polswarmers maken. "Haak 2-3-4 toeren met 1 v in elke v. Herhaal dan de 1e en 2e toer een keer. Plaats 1 markeerder aan de zijkant (haak de st voor de duim hier later). Herhaal de 1e en 2e toer tot het werk ongeveer 18-19-20 cm meet, pas zo aan dat het na toer 1." Mis ik iets hier aan het eind van de zin?

02.12.2022 - 12:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Renata,

Het is de bedoeling dat je het zo aanpast dat je eindigt na een 'TOER 1', dus een toer met vasten. Het stond inderdaad een beetje ongelukkig omschreven, het is nu aangepast.

04.12.2022 - 16:23

country flag Carla wrote:

Hi I am making the headband, but I am unsure of how to do the ribbon part. how do I sew it unto the headband. should i sew it together before adding it to the headband or after. How do i sew it unto the headband. thank you!

14.07.2022 - 23:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Carla, ribbon is sewn together on its short sides to form a ring. Then, pass the headband inside the ring and sew the headband to the ribbon afterwards . Happy crocheting!

15.07.2022 - 12:56

country flag Mylène wrote:

Bonjour, je suis entrain de faire ce modèle et je ne comprends pas les dimensions car ça ne ressemble pas du tout à la photo ! Ce serait bien d’avoir le modèle à plat ! La pointe est importante par rapport à l’écharpe qui doit faire deux tours de coup (trop serré) Merci pour votre aide 😊

15.11.2020 - 14:11

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mylène, le tour de cou se crochète de bas en haut, la petite pointe se voit un peu sur la photo: la partie qui "rebique" un peu en bas - vous augmentez à partir du 3ème rang et ainsi tous les 2 rangs jusqu'à ce que vous ayez 47-53 ms, et montez ensuite les mailles en l'air qui vont faire le tour de cou et continuez ensuite sur toutes les mailles sans augmenter. Vérifiez bien votre tension en largeur et en hauteur pour obtenir le même résultat que sur la photo. Bon crochet!

16.11.2020 - 10:20

country flag Ninna LH wrote:

Hej! Mönstret ser fantastiskt ut! Jag undrar om man kan byta ut mot ett garn i merinoull? Ni kanske isf har förslag på ett då? Samt om man då ska ändra virknålsstorlek? Tack på förhand! Mvh, Ninna

13.09.2020 - 12:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ninna. Du kan använda DROPS Big Merino till detta mönster. Det är samma rekommenderade storlek på virknål, men se bara till att få den virkfasthet som uppges i mönstret. Tänk bara på att beräkna riktig garnåtgång om du byter garn. Mvh DROPS Design

15.09.2020 - 07:52

country flag Patrizia Vallarani wrote:

Ho acquistato la rivista sulla quale è riportato questo modello che vorrei realizzare ma non ho capito le spiegazioni perché manca uno schema del modello. Soprattutto dopo la 4^ riga quando si dice di avviare a nuovo delle catenelle??? non si capisce come si sviluppa il lavoro. Prima che io inizi mi potete aiutare; grazie?

23.01.2019 - 12:13

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Patrizia. Lo scaldacollo presenta una punta al centro sul davanti. Quindi ha una forma di rettangolo con una punta che sporge al centro di uno dei lati lunghi. Questa punta corrisponde alla prima parte lavorata, fino a quando non ottiene 47 o 53 maglie, a seconda della taglia. Avvia poi le catenelle da un lato e dall'altro e lavora la parte rettangolare. Buon lavoro!

23.01.2019 - 13:55

country flag R.D wrote:

Oh ! I found these crochet wrist warmer video tutorials : 167-9 , 166-44 , 108-25 . Thank you.

14.03.2018 - 03:50

R.D wrote:

Please, do you have a video tutorial for a crocheted wrist warmer?

14.03.2018 - 02:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hi RD, If you click on video tutorials, crochet and then search for wristwarmers a number of tutorials come up. I hope this helps and happy crocheting!

14.03.2018 - 07:58

Karen wrote:

Please help I am having a problem understanding the pattern for the neck warmer from the do not cut part could you please explain

11.11.2015 - 22:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Karen, join a new thread in 1st dc on last row made (from WS) and crochet loosely a chain with 23-26 ch, cut this yarn. Take the last st of your last row on neckwarmer and crochet then from RS: 1 tr in every chain (the one you just worked extra with another yarn) + 1 tr in every dc from previous row + 1 tr in every ch worked at the end of last row from WS. You have now increased on each side with a chain. Happy crocheting!

12.11.2015 - 10:09

country flag Terrier wrote:

Cest le modèle que je cherche mais fermé merci

21.04.2015 - 12:27

country flag Gloria Cannon wrote:

Do you have instructions for your stitches?I have a hard time with your patterns. Thank you

01.10.2014 - 00:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Cannon, you will find all relevant videos to the sts used in that pattern under tab "video" at the right side of the picture - take care you are reading US-English patterns since crochet terminology is different in British and American English. Happy crocheting!

01.10.2014 - 09:32