DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.65$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 73-15
Sizes: S/M - M/L - L/XL
Finished measurements: 92-102-114 cm [36.25" - 40-1/8" - 44-7/8"]
On account of the pattern the garment will be smaller before blocking.

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
350-400-450 gr nr 09, light brown.

DROPS 4 mm [US 6] straight and double-pointed needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.65$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Gauge: 21 sts x 28 rows = 10 x 10 cm in stockinette st.

Garter st, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.

Pattern: See chart. The pattern is seen from the right side.

Knitting tips-1: All decs are made on right side rows. Dec 1 st inside 3 edge sts, knit as follows from edge: 1 st in garter st and 2 sts in stockinette st.
After 3 edge sts: P 2 tog
Before 3 edge sts: P 2 tog, twisting sts

Knitting tips-2: read this entire section before knitting: You will be increasing sts for the shoulder at the same time as decreasing for the armhole. All incs and decs occur on the same rows (right side rows).
Dec 1 st as explained in knitting tips-1 by P 2 tog. At the same time inc 1 st with yo - make the first inc inside of 1 edge st, then inc inside 1 st more each time so that there will be a line of holes along «raglan» armhole. Note: Knit the edge st and then the first 2 increased sts (3 sts at side edge) in garter st throughout – these sts will fold under at the edge – knit the remaining increased sts in stockinette st.
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Front: Cast on 106-118-130 sts. Establish pattern on first row as follows: P 1, Pattern 2 over 36-42-48 sts, Pattern 1 (= 34 sts), Pattern 2 over 34-40-46 sts, P 1. Continue in pattern as established until the piece measures 35-36-37 cm. Bind off 4 sts at each side = 98-110-122 sts remain, then dec 1 st at each side for armhole inside 3 edge sts every other row 5-9-13 times - see knitting tips-1 = 88-92-96 sts.
Now dec and inc 1 st every other row 24-22-19 times according to knitting tips-2. At the same time when the piece measures approx. 48-50-52 cm - adjust to end after one of the arrows on the chart - put the center 20 sts on a st holder for the neck. Then bind off at each neck edge every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times.
After all neck shaping and incs/decs for sleeve are complete, 25-27-29 sts remain on each shoulder. Continue in stockinette st with the 3 outermost sts of shoulder in garter st. When the piece measures 56-58-60 cm put a marker at the side = top of shoulder – and bind off 1-5-10 sts at neck edge = 24-22-19 sts remain. Continue on shoulder sts for back. Cast on 1 new st at the neck edge = 25-23-20 sts. Then dec 1 st at the neck edge every other row until all sts are decreased.

Back: Cast on 94-106-118 sts. Establish pattern on first row as follows (right side row): P 1, K 2, Pattern 2 over 90-102-114 sts, P 1. Continue with pattern as established until the piece measures 35-36-37 cm. Dec 1 st for armhole at each side every other row 29-31-32 times - see knitting tips-1.
At the same time when the piece measures 54-56-58 cm bind off the center 30 sts for the neck. Then bind off 2 sts at each neck edge on the next row = 1-5-10 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off, the piece measures approx. 56-58-60 cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Sew shoulder piece from front to back using 1 edge st as seam allowance - see that the sleeves start on the same place on back as on front. Sew side seams using 1 edge st as seam allowance. Note: The P 4 at each side of front is the side –the seams are offset to the back.
Collar: Pick up approx. 92-100 sts (divisible by 4, incl. sts on st holder) around the neck on double-pointed needles and knit rib (K 2, P 2) - see that sts follow those on front. Bind off in pattern when the collar measures 18 cm.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit/stockinette st (as seen from the right side)
symbols = purl/reverse stockinette st (as seen from the right side)
symbols = work 5 sts in 1 st as follows: K 1, P 1, K 1, P 1, K 1
symbols = 5 sts in stockinette st
symbols = K 5 tog – insert right needle through back loops of sts on left needle beginning with the outermost st on needle
symbols = Put 4 sts on cable needle in back of work, knit the next 4 sts: K 1, P 2, K 1, then knit the sts on cable needle: K 1, P 2, K 1.
symbols = Put 4 sts on cable needle in front of work, knit the next 4 sts: K 1, P 2, K 1, then knit the sts on cable needle: K 1, P 2, K 1.
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (20)

country flag Merete wrote:

Hei, er det slik at det ikke er raglanfelling og ermeøkning (felletips 2) på bakstykket? Kan dere legge ut bilde av modellen bakfra?

14.07.2023 - 18:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Merete. Har gått igjennom vårt bildearkiv, men vi hadde dessverre ingen bilder av bakstykket på denne modellen. Det er forskjellige fellinger på forstykket (Felletips-2) og bakstykket (Felletips-1). mvh DROPS Design

26.07.2023 - 09:06

country flag Susanne Baden Weltz wrote:

Tusinde tak for hjælpen. Jeg kan se nu, hvor det ergået galt 🧶

18.11.2021 - 13:04

country flag Susanne Baden Weltz wrote:

Jeg har lukket af/taget ud til hals og ærmegab på modellen ud fra lukketips 2. I stedet for 27 m har jeg 42 m tilbage på skulderen. Jeg har læst lukketippet flere gange undervejs for at sikre mig, at jeg strikkede rigtigt, så jeg forstår ikke, hvad jeg kan have gjort galt. Har i fået denne type spørgsmål før?

16.11.2021 - 10:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Susanne, du starter med 118m lukker 4+9 m af i hver side = 92m, (tager ud og ind 22 gange) stadig 92m, sætter 20m på en tråd og tager ind til hals i hver side 9x2 = 54 = 27 på hver skulder. God fornøjelse!

18.11.2021 - 12:03

country flag Ewa wrote:

Proszę o tłumaczenie wzoru na język polski

26.08.2021 - 13:54

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Ewo, patrz na naszej stronie na początku przyszłego tygodnia. Wzór będzie gotowy. Pozdrawiamy i dziękujemy za zainteresowanie naszymi wzorami!

27.08.2021 - 08:55

country flag Nari wrote:

Bonjour Pouvez vous s il vous plait expliquer, dans Astuce tricot, les instructions suivantes : Note : tricoter la m lis et les 2 premières augmentations (3 m de chaque côté) au point mousse tout du long – ces mailles vont se retourner sous la bordure – tricoter les augmentations suivantes en jersey. Merci

24.06.2021 - 21:08

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nari, lorsque vous commencez à augmenter/diminuer, vous devez toujours tricoter 3 mailles au point mousse de chaque côté; ces 3 mailles vont se retourner sous l'ouvrage (cf 2ème photo). Les augmentations se tricotent en jersey tout du long. Bon tricot!

25.06.2021 - 07:23

country flag Lala wrote:

Bonjour Pensez vous qu on peut tricoter des manches à ce modèle en relevant les mailles sur le tour des emmanchures avec une aiguille circulaire, puis en tricotant vers les poignets ? Merci pour votre avis

01.06.2021 - 22:39

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Lala, oui, c'est possible. Bon tricot!

01.06.2021 - 23:22

country flag Sissi wrote:

Merci pour votre réponse. Mais je n'ai pas bien compris "cette partie sera ensuite assemblée le long du dos (la maille à monter côté encolure et pour la couture le long des diminutions du dos)" dans votre explication. Est ce que la couture de l'épaule se retrouve dans le dos ? Quelle est cette maille à monter côté encolure ?

18.05.2021 - 08:48

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sissi, chaque épaule va se terminer en forme triangle, et vous assemblerez ensuite le côté du triangle (jusqu'à la pointe) contre les mailles diminuées pour le raglan en haut du dos. Cette maille à monter côté encolure est pour la couture, c'est la maille lisière. Bon tricot!

18.05.2021 - 11:32

country flag Sissi wrote:

Pouvez vous expliquer ce que veut dire pour le devant : . À 56-58-60 ..... Continuer l'épaule pour le dos. Monter 1 m côté encolure = 25-23-20 m. Diminuer 1 m côté encolure tous les 2 rangs jusqu'à ce que toutes les mailles aient été diminuées. Merci

14.05.2021 - 10:21

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sissi, le marqueur sert pour repérer le haut de l'épaule, vous continuez à tricoter les mailles maintenant pour la partie épaule du dos en diminuant 1 maille tous les 2 rangs jusqu'à ce que toutes les mailles soient diminuées et cette partie sera ensuite assemblée le long du dos (la maille à monter côté encolure et pour la couture le long des diminutions du dos). Bon tricot!

17.05.2021 - 08:24

country flag AS wrote:

Est-ce possible pour vous de me donner les explications avec les abbréviations à faire de chaque mailles au début du rang et à la fin de rang ? Diminuer 1 m comme indiqué ci dessus en tricotant 2 m ens à l'envers. EN MÊME TEMPS, augmenter avec 1 jeté (faire la première augmentation à 1 m lis du bord, puis augmenter 1 m de plus à chaque fois qu'il y a un rang ajouré le long du raglan de l'emmanchure.

08.03.2020 - 18:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour AS, vous diminuez à 3 m des bords de chaque côté et vous augmentez à 1 m des bord en même temps: donc vous aurez pour la 1ère série: 1 m, 1 augm, 2 m, 1 diminution en début de rang et en fin de rang: 1 dim, 2 m, 1 augm, 1 m. Vous aurez ensuite 2 m, 1 augm, 2 m, 1 dim... 1 dim, 2 m, 1 augm, 2 m et ainsi de suite, vous allez augmenter et diminuer de part et d'autre des 2 mailles soulignées ci-dessus. ce sont des mailles de raglan et les nouvelles mailles sont celles des manches. Bon tricot!

09.03.2020 - 12:06

country flag Anna wrote:

Je suis rendue BLOQUÉE de l'incompréhension de ce qui signifie ci-dessous: Diminuer ensuite tous les 2 rangs 5-9-13 fois 1 m de chaque côté pour les emmanchures à 3 m des bords -voir diminutions ci dessus = 88-92-96 m.

02.03.2020 - 17:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Anna. Cela signifie que tu dois revenir plus tot dans le modele et voir la section (ci-dessus) suivant: Diminutions : toutes les diminutions se font sur l'endroit. Diminuer 1 m à 3 m des bords tricotées ainsi : 1 m lis au point mousse, 2 m jersey... Bon travail!

03.03.2020 - 07:41