DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 2.05 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS SS24
DROPS 74-8
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL
Finished measurements:

CARDIGAN:
Bust: 92-100-108-118-125 cm [36.25" - 39-⅜" - 42.5" - 46.5" - 49.25"]
Hem: 100-108-116-126-132 cm [39-⅜" - 42.5" - 45-⅝" - 49-⅝" - 52"]

PULLOVER: 96-104-112-120-128 cm [37.75" - 41" - 44" - 47.25" - 50-⅜"]

Materials: DROPS SAFRAN,from Garnstudio

CARDIGAN:
100-100-100-100-100 gr nr 06, denim blue.
50 -100-100-100-100 gr nr 05, periwinkle
50 - 50 -100-100-100 gr nr 31, pistachio.
50 - 50 -100-100-100 gr nr 04, green.
50 - 50 - 50 -100-100 gr nr 26, grey green.
50 - 50 - 50 - 50 - 50 gr nr 22, brown.
50 - 50 - 50 - 50 - 50 gr nr 23, dark brown.
50 - 50 - 50 - 50 - 50 gr nr 50, ice blue.

PULLOVER:
50 - 50 - 50 - 50 -100 gr nr 06, denim blue.
50 - 50 - 50 - 50 - 50 gr nr 05, periwinkle
50 - 50 - 50 - 50 -100 gr nr 31, pistachio.
50 - 50 - 50 - 50 - 50 gr nr 04, green.
50 - 50 - 50 - 50 - 50 gr nr 26, grey green.
50 - 50 - 50 - 50 - 50 gr nr 22, brown.
50 - 50 - 50 - 50 - 50 gr nr 23, dark brown.
50 - 50 - 50 - 50 - 50 gr nr 50, ice blue.

and use: DROPS COTTON-VISCOSE, from Garnstudio

CARDIGAN:
450-500-550-600-650 gr nr 17, light beige.
PULLOVER:
300-300-350-400-400 gr nr 17, light beige.

CARDIGAN: 2-6 DROPS Duffel buttons nr 520

CARDIGAN AND PULLOVER:
DROPS 4.5 mm [US 7] and 5.5 mm [US 9] needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.
PULLOVER: 5.5 mm [US 9] double-pointed needles (for the neck), or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 2.05 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Gauge: 16 sts x 20 rows with 1 strand Safran + 1 strand Cotton Viscose = 10 x 10 cm on larger needles in stockinette st.

Pattern: See the charts for Model No. 8 on page 18 of Drops No. 74. The entire pattern is knit in reverse stockinette st. 1 row of chart = 7 cm of that color combination. Continue with last color combination to finished measurements.


CARDIGAN:

Back: Cast on 82-89-98-105-114 sts on smaller needles with 1 strand denim blue Safran + 1 strand Cotton-Viscose. (1st row = right side).
Knit rib as follows:
Sizes S, L and XXL: K 1 (edge st knit in garter st throughout), P 5, * K 7, P 9 *, repeat from * - * a total of 4-5-6 times, finish with K 7, P 4 and K 1 (edge st knit in garter st throughout).
Sizes M and XL: K 1 (edge st knit in garter st throughout), * K 7, P 9 *, repeat from * - * a total of 5-6 times, finish with K 7 and K 1 (edge st knit in garter st throughout). When the piece measures 7 cm change to larger needles and reverse stockinette st, decreasing 0-1-4-3-6 sts evenly distributed on the first row = 82-88-94-102-108 sts and follow Pattern 3 - see instructions above. When the piece measures 20 cm dec 1 st at each side every 9-9-10-10-11 cm a total of 3 times = 76-82-88-96-102 sts.
When the piece measures 51-53-55-57-59 cm bind off for armholes at each side every other row: 3 sts 1-1-1-2-2 times, 2 sts 1-1-2-2-2 times and 1 st 0-2-2-2-4 times = 66-68-70-72-74 sts.
When the piece measures 68-71-74-77-80 cm bind off the center 12-12-14-16-16 sts for the neck. On the next row dec 1 st at each neck edge = 26-27-27-27-28 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off when piece measures approx. 70-73-76-79-82 cm.

Left front: Cast on 51-56-51-56-67 sts on smaller needles with 1 strand periwinkle Safran + 1 strand Cotton-Viscose. Knit rib as follows beginning at side edge (1st row = right side row):
Sizes S, L and XXL: K 1 (edge st knit in garter st throughout), P 4, * K 7, P 9 *, repeat from * - * a total of 1-1-2 times, finish with K 7 and P 23 at the center front.
Size M and XL: K 1 (edge st knit in garter st throughout), * P 9, K 7 *, repeat from * - * a total of 2-2 times, finish with P 23 at the center front. Continue in rib as established until the piece measures 7 cm. Change to larger needles and reverse stockinette st:
Sizes S, M and XXL decreasing 3-5-6 sts
Sizes L and XL increasing 3-2 sts
evenly distributed on the first row = 48-51-54-58-61 sts =and follow Pattern 2 - see instructions above. When the piece measures 20 cm dec 1 st at side edge every 9-9-10-10-11 cm a total of 3 times = 45-48-51-55-58 sts. When piece measures 51-53-55-57-59 cm bind off for armhole at the side as on back. At the same time when the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62 cm bind off 14 sts at center front edge for neck. Then dec 1 st for at neck edge every 6 rows 0-0-1-2-2 times = 26-27-27-27-28 sts remain on shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 70-73-76-79-82 cm.

Right front: Cast on with 1 strand dark brown Safran + 1 strand Cotton-Viscose and knit rib as on left front, reversing shaping. After the rib continue in reverse stockinette st following Pattern 1 to finished measurements - see instructions above. Bind off for armhole and neck as on left front, reversing shaping.

Left sleeve: Cast on 36-37-39-40-42 sts on smaller needles with 1 strand dark brown Safran + 1 strand Cotton-Viscose. Knit rib as follows: K 1, P 2-3-4-4-5, * K 5, P 7 *, repeat from * - * a total of 2 times, finish with K 5, P 3-3-4-5-6, K 1. Knit rib as established until the piece measures 7 cm. Change to larger needles and reverse stockinette st following Pattern 1 to finished measurements - see instructions above. At the same time when the piece measures 8-8-7-7-6 cm inc 1 st at each side every 3.5-3-3-2.5-2.5 cm a total of 12-13-13-15-15 times = 60-63-65-70-72 sts. When sleeve measures 49-48-47-45-43 cm bind off for sleeve cap at each side every other row: 4 sts 2 times, 3 sts 2-2-2-0-0 times, 2 sts 1-1-1-2-2 times and 1 st 3-1-1-1-4 times, then bind off 2 sts at each side until the piece measures 53 cm and then bind off 3 sts 1 time. Bind off the remaining sts, the piece measures approx. 54 cm.

Right sleeve: Cast on with 1 strand light blue violet Safran + 1 strand Cotton-Viscose and knit rib as on left sleeve. Then continue the same as left sleeve, but following Pattern 2.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams.
Button band: Fold 7 sts at each center front to the right side, stitch down.
Neckband: Pick up approx. 46-58 sts around the neck (pick up through both layers on button bands) on larger needles with 1 strand grey green Safran + 1 strand Cotton-Viscose and knit 5 rows stockinette st (= rolled edge). Bind off.
Button loops: Crochet button loops along right front as follows: Ch 6, skip over 2 knitted sts, 1 sc in the next st. Fasten yarn. The first loop starts in the transition between neckband and rolled edge. Make 1-5 loops more (as desired) with approx. 7 cm between each loop. Sew on buttons. Sew in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams using edge sts as a seam allowance.

PULLOVER:

The pullover is knit with 2 front pieces seamed together at center front and 2 back pieces seamed together at center back. The seam allowances are on the right side, as a decorative feature. For this reason, it is advisable to make all yarn changes at the side edges rather than the center edges.

Left front: Cast on 40-40-52-52-52 sts on smaller needles with 1 strand light blue violet Safran + 1 strand Cotton Viscose. Establish rib as follows from side edge (row 1 = right side): P 5, * K 5, P 7*, repeat from * - * a total of 2-2-3-3-3 times, finish with K 5, P 6. Continue in rib as established until the piece measures 6 cm. Change to larger needles and reverse stockinette st over all sts, following Pattern 2 color changes to finished measurements - see instructions above - and on the first row:
Sizes S, M and XXL: inc 1-5-2 sts evenly distributed Sizes L and XL: dec 4-1 sts evenly distributed
= 41-45-48-51-54 sts. When the piece measures 31-32-33-34-35 cm bind off for armhole at the side every other row: 3 sts 1-1-1-2-2 times, 2 sts 1-2-2-2-3 times, 1 st 1-2-4-3-3 times = 35-36-37-38-39 sts. When the piece measures 40-42-43-44-46 cm bind off 10-10-11-11-11 sts at center edge for neck. Then bind off at neck edge every other row: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 3 times = 20-21-21-22-23 sts remain on shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58 cm.

Right front: Cast on 40-40-52-52-52 sts with 1 strand dark brown Safran + 1 strand Cotton-Viscose on smaller needles. Establish rib as follows from front edge (row 1 = right side): P 6, K 5, * P 7, K 5 *, repeat from * - * a total of 2-2-3-3-3 times, P 5. Continue in rib as established until piece measures 6 cm, change to larger needles and reverse stockinette st over all sts, following Pattern 1 color changes, and on the first row:
Sizes S, M and XXL: inc 1-5-2 sts evenly distributed Sizes L and XL: dec 4-1 sts evenly distributed
= 41-45-48-51-54 sts.
Bind off for armhole and neck as on left front, reversing shaping.

Left back: Cast on and knit the same as the left front. Bind off for armhole as on front and continue until the piece measures 48-50-52-54-56 cm. Now bind off 13-13-14-14-14 sts at center edge for neck. Then bind off 2 sts at each neck edge on the next row = 20-21-21-22-23 sts remain on shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58 cm.

Right back: Cast on and knit the same as right front. Bind off for armhole and neck as on left back, reversing all shaping.

Left sleeve: Cast on 38-38-40-40-40 sts on smaller needles with 1 strand dark brown Safran + 1 strand Cotton-Viscose. Establish rib back and forth as follows:
Sizes S + M: P 1, * P 7, K 5 *, repeat from * - * a total of 3 times, P 1.
Sizes L + XL + XXL: P 8, * K 5, P 7*, repeat from * - * a total of 2 times, finish with K 6, P 2. Continue the rib as established until the piece measures 6 cm. Change to larger needles and reverse stockinette st following Pattern 1 to finished measurements - see instructions above.

When the piece measures 7-7-7-7-9 cm = 2¾"-2¾"-2¾"-2¾"-3½" the piece is joined and worked in the round, start the round in the middle of the row so that there will be a slit at the top of the sleeve. At the same time inc 1 st at each side every 4-3.5-3-2.5-2 cm a total of 11-12-13-15-16 times = 60-62-66-70-72 sts. When sleeve measures 49-47-46-44-43 cm bind off for sleeve cap at each side every other row: 3 sts 1 time, then 2 sts each side until piece measures approx. 53 cm and then bind off 3 sts at each side 1 time. Bind off the remaining sts, the piece measures approx. 54 cm.

Right sleeve: Cast on with 1 strand light blue violet Safran + 1 strand Cotton Viscose and knit rib as on left sleeve. Then knit the same as left sleeve, but following Pattern 2.

Assembly: Sew right and left fronts together, and right and left backs together using 2 edge sts as seam allowance. Sew from the right side of the garment so that the seam allowances will be visible on the outside. Sew shoulder seams. Sew the split on the sleeves the same way as the front piece.

Neckband: Pick up approx. 68-80 sts around the neck on larger double pointed needles with 1 strand denim blue Safran + 1 strand Cotton Viscose and knit 5 rows stockinette st, then bind off (= rolled edge).
Sew in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams using edge sts as a seam allowance.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 02.01.2024
The pattern has been updated. Edit under sleeves for sweater.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 strand green Safran 04 + 1 strand Cotton Viscose
symbols = 1 strand pistachio Safran 31 + 1 strand Cotton Viscose
symbols = 1 strand grey green Safran 26 + 1 strand Cotton Viscose
symbols = 1 strand denim blue Safran 06 + 1 strand Cotton Viscose
symbols = 1 strand periwinkle Safran 05 + 1 strand Cotton Viscose
symbols = 1 strand ice blue Safran 50 + 1 strand Cotton Viscose
symbols = 1 strand dark brown Safran 23 + 1 strand Cotton Viscose
symbols = 1 strand brown Safran 22 + 1 strand Cotton Viscose
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (7)

country flag Janine Rea wrote:

The pullover sleeve looks like it has a decorative external seam near the wrist but I can't see anything in the pattern to indicate this. How is the decorative seam achieved on the wrist please?

19.12.2023 - 19:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Janine, there is a short split in the bottom of each sleeve - this bottom part we knit in rows back and forth. So finally just sešijte sew this slit so that the edges of the piece remain on the RS. Sew the front piece the same way - see seam in the middle of front piece. Happy knitting!

13.01.2024 - 17:48

country flag Mirjam wrote:

“1 række i diag = 7 cm glatstrik med vrangen ud.“ Da der er 10 rækker i diagrammerne giver det 70 cm . Hvordan kan det passe sammen med at længden på blusen er mellem 50 og 58 cm?

19.03.2023 - 22:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Mirjam. Jo, men det står i oppskriften at du skal strikke M.2 til ferdig mål (du skal ikke strikke hele M.2 til genseren, M.2 brukes også i oppskriften Lang jakke). Så se i oppskriften og cm målene når det skal felles til ermhull, midt foran til hals og når det felles av i den nstr. du strikker etter. mvh DROPS Design

20.03.2023 - 13:55

country flag Karin wrote:

Jag stickar koftan i storlek M. Stickfastheten stämmer exakt. Nu när ärmen mäter 53 cm har jag avmaskat 4 m 2ggr, 3 m 2ggr och 2 m 1 gång. Jag har 31 m kvar på stickan. Det är något fel i mönstret. Antingen borde man starta med avmaskning till ärmkulle tidigare än vid 48 cm, eller så blir ärmen mycket längre än 54 cm?????

15.04.2021 - 16:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Karin, så lukker du 3 masker af i hver side på de sidste 2 pinde og arbejdet måler 54 cm. Du skal nok få det til at passe ind i ærmekuplen. Vi kan godt se hvad du mener og at vi skulle have startet 1 cm tidligere! Tak for info :)

28.04.2021 - 14:59

country flag Karin wrote:

Ska nu avmaska för ärmkullen och måtten stämmer inte alls. Ärmen mäter 53 cm och jag har avmaskat 4 m 2 ggr och 3 m 2 ggr. Det blir ju en väldigt tvär avmaskning om ärmen är färdig här?

26.03.2021 - 21:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Karin. Er strikkefastheten i høyden overholdt? Strikker du genseren eller jakken? Og hvilken størrelse? Når jakke ermet måler 49-48-47-45-43 cm felles det til ermtopp i hver side på hver. Når ermet til genseren måler 49-47-46-44-43 cm felles det til ermtopp i hver side på hver. mvh DROPS design

12.04.2021 - 11:53

country flag Karin wrote:

Ska kantmaskan stickas i rätstickning?

23.02.2021 - 18:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Karin, ja det kan du gøre :)

24.02.2021 - 15:23

country flag Mina wrote:

Hi, would it be possible to get the pattern chart that's on page 18 of the catalogue as a PDF file or something similar? Thanks!

11.10.2016 - 08:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mina, you will find diagrams to this pattern at the very bottom of page (scroll down) - below diagram text you will see M.1, M.2 and M.3 each 4 sts x 10 rows. Happy knitting!

11.10.2016 - 09:25

country flag Busarello Sabine wrote:

Dans ce modèle il y a un soucis avec les couleurs vous mettez les différentes couleurs et numéros de la laine safran et dans l'explication vous mettez que ces même couleurs sont pour drops coton viscose alors que dans cette catégorie il n'y a que le beige clair je ne comprend pas

01.07.2015 - 14:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Busarello, les couleurs concernaient effectivement uniquement les fils Safran, les modifications ont été faites, merci. Bon tricot!

01.07.2015 - 16:38