DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.75$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 151-18
DROPS design: Pattern no ks-079
Yarn group A
-----------------------------------------------------------
Width at the top: 200 cm / 80’’
Length in the middle: 85 cm / 33½’’

Materials:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
125 g color no 13, pink

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32’’) SIZE 3 mm/ us 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.75$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.9. Diagrams show all rows in pattern from RS.

INCREASE TIP:
All inc are done from RS. Work YOs as sts on next row (not twisted) to make holes. Inc 4 sts on every other row as follows:
Inc 1 st at beg of row as follows: 1 st in garter st, 1 YO.
Inc 2 sts in the middle of piece as follows: 1 YO, 1 st in stockinette st (= st with marker), 1 YO.
Inc 1 st at end of row as follows: 1 YO, 1 st in garter st.
----------------------------------------------------------

SHAWL:
Worked back and worth on circular needle from neck and down with 1 st in GARTER ST - see explanation above - in each side. Cast on 3 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Kid-Silk. K 6 rows. After 6th row do not turn piece but rotate 90 degrees clockwise, pick up 3 sts along the edge (i.e. 1 st in every ridge), rotate piece again clockwise and pick up 3 sts along cast-on edge (i.e. 1 st in every st) = 9 sts on needle.
Insert 1 marker in the 5th st (st marks the middle of the shawl).
Then continue in stockinette st with 1 st in garter st in each side while AT THE SAME TIME inc 4 sts on every row from RS - Read INCREASE TIP! Continue like this until there are 29 sts on the needle. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Then work as follows from RS: 1 st in garter st, A.3 (= 2 sts), A.2 (= 6 sts), A.1 (= 5 sts), 1 st in stockinette st (= mid st, worked in stockinette st until finished measurements), A.3, A.2, A.1 and finish with 1 st in garter st. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically (= 24 rows), there are 101 sts on needle.

Continue pattern like this – NOTE: Every time A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 6 repetitions more of A.2 on each side of mid st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Work a total of 7 repetitions of A.2 (piece measures approx. 58 cm / 22 3/4’’ measured along mid st) = 533 sts on needle - AT THE SAME TIME on the last row of the A.1, A.2, A.3 (=purl row) increase 6 sts evenly on each side of the mid st (= total of 12 sts) to a totalt of 545 sts.

Work next row from RS as follows: 1 st in garter st, A.9 (= 5 sts) and then A.8 (= 12 sts) until 2 sts remain before mid st, work A.7 (= 2 sts), 1 st in stockinette st, A.6 (= 2 sts), repeat A.5 (= 12 sts) until 6 sts remain, work A.4 (= 5 sts) and finish with 1 st in garter st.
Work 1 repetition of pattern vertically. LOOSELY bind off.



This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 03.12.2013
When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically (= 24 rows), there are 101 sts on needle.

Continue pattern like this – NOTE: Every time A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 6 repetitions more of A.2 on each side of mid st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Work a total of 7 repetitions of A.2 (piece measures approx. 58 cm measured along mid st) = = 533 sts on needle - AT THE SAME TIME on the last row of the A.1, A.2, A.3 (=purl row) increase 6 sts evenly on each side of the mid st (= total of 12 sts) to a totalt of 545 sts.

Work next row from RS as follows:

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso.
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = bobble - work follows from RS: K 1, 1 YO, K 1 in same st (= 3 sts), turn piece, work 4 rows in stockinette st over these 3 sts. Then pass 2nd st on right needle over 1st st and then pass 3rd st over 1st st (= 1 st remains)
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 151-18

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (33)

country flag Francine wrote:

Voici ce que j'ai compris à reprendre au rang 1 du diagramme dès que l'on a 151 m. 1 endroit, A3, 7 fois A2, A1, 1 jersey, A3, 7 fois A2, A1, 1 endroit = 151m Chaque reprise au rg 1, ajouter ainsi 6 A2

05.09.2023 - 10:28

country flag Jette wrote:

Hej Når jeg har strikket A3 A2 A1 mønsteret 1 x, hvordan kommer jeg så videre? Strikker jeg igen A3 A2 A1 og selv regner mønsteret ud eller fortsætter jeg med A4 A5 A6 A7 A8 A9 og så igen forfra?

29.10.2022 - 14:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Jette. Husk at for hver gang A.2 er strikket 1 gang i høyden blir det 6 rapporter mer av A.2 på hver side av midt-masken (dette vil du se automatisk evnt kan du telle maskene og sette makemarkører mellom hver A.2 for bedre oversikt). Du strikker 1 rillemaske + A.3 + A.2 + A.1 + Midt-maske + A.3 + A.2 + A.1 + 1 rillemaske, og slik strikkes det til arbeidet måler ca 58 cm målt langs midt-maske og det er 605 masker på pinnen. Neste pinne fra retten startes det å strikke ette de andre diagrammene (A.4 til og med A.9). Disse diagrammene gjentas bare 1 gang i høyden før det felles løst av. mvh DROPS Design

31.10.2022 - 11:56

country flag Emmy wrote:

Hej, verkar som att maskantalet för varven med mönster stämmer inte med nästa varv. t.ex A3 borde vara 4 maskor efter första varvet men på diagrammet står att det blir bara 3 maskor.. hjälp!

29.01.2020 - 16:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Jag förstår att det ser lite konstigt ut men ser man på alla 3 diagram tillsammans så stämmer det. Ökningarna på varje sida av minskningarna hör ihop (även om det inte blir så tydligt när de är i olika diagram) och ökningarna längst ut på sidorna blir de ökade maskorna. Lycka till!

30.01.2020 - 13:43

country flag Tamar Terpstra wrote:

Ik begrijp niet goed waarom er staat dat er staat dat A.3 uit twee steken bestaat. Ik tel in totaal 4 steken, namelijk 1omslag, 1recht, 1omslag en nog 1recht=4steken (toch?) Hierdoor klopt de derde naald volgens mij niet, waar staat 1omslag 3recht,1omslag ...ik heb vier steken op nodig staan...hoe moet ik dit oplossen? Met vr.groet, T.Terpstra

29.10.2019 - 19:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Tamar,

In dit geval kun je het feit dat het aantal steken van A.3 op zichzelf niet klopt negeren en gewoon de derde naald breien zoals aangegeven, omdat A.3, A.2 en A.1 bij elkaar horen waarbij de steken in totaal wel weer kloppen. Ik heb een klein proefje gebreid en het patroon zou goed uit moeten komen.

30.10.2019 - 10:31

country flag DONATELLA PIETRAPERTOSA wrote:

Buongiorno,La balza del bordo è a parte o compresa nello schema?

12.07.2018 - 09:23

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Donatella, nelle spiegazioni è indicata tutta la lavorazione, balza compresa. Buon lavoro!

12.07.2018 - 09:43

country flag Irène wrote:

Bonjour, le modèle est superbe, mais comment faites vous après avoir obtenu les 545 mailles ? il faut continuer avec les diagramme A4 A5 A6 A7 A8 A9 mais nous sommes sur la partie supérieure du châle et non sur les côtés, or sur la photo la partie volantée sur trouve sur le côté. Faut-il relever des mailles sur les côtés ? si je travaille selon vos explications le volant se trouve sur le haut du châle et non sur les côtés. Merci pour votre réponse. Cordialement

16.03.2018 - 08:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Irène, le châle se tricote de haut en bas, en forme de triangle: on augmente sur les côtés et au milieu tout du long. Après les 545 m on termine ainsi: 1 m point mousse, A.9, 22 fois A.8, , A.7, 1 m jersey (m centrale), A.6, 22 fois A.5, A.4 et 1 m point mousse = 1+ (5+22x12+2) + 1 + (2+22x12+5) + 1 = 545 m. Bon tricot!

16.03.2018 - 09:29

country flag Monbellet Odette wrote:

Je suis bloquée après le rang où l'on obtient 101 mailles. J'ai lu les réponses des 26/5/2014 et 19/9/2014 à cette question,mais elles ne disent pas la meme chose! 2 fois A2 de chaque coté de la maille centrale ou 2 fois A2 à chaque motif? Le modèle est très beau mais les explications et les diagrammes ne sont pas clairs du tout! J'ai essayé un autre modèle et ai été confrontée au meme problème, j'ai abandonné!

07.11.2014 - 20:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Monbellet, quand vous avez tricoté 1 fois A1,A2 et A3, vous avez 101 m et répétez les diagrammes à nouveau de la même façon, mais vous avez alors suffisamment de mailles pour tricoter 6 fois de plus A.2 entre A.1 et A.3 de chaque côté de la m centrale. Voir aussi ici. Bon tricot!

08.11.2014 - 10:03

country flag Alylla wrote:

Merci pour votre réponse rapide ! Mais en procédant ainsi, je n'obtiens que 81 m au total, au lieu de 101 ?!

19.09.2014 - 18:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Alylla, après avoir tricoté 1 fois les diagrammes A.3, 1 x A.2 et A.5 de chaque côté de la m centrale (avec 1 m point mousse de chaque côté), vous avez 101 m. À chaque fois que l'on tricote ces 3 diagrammes en hauteur, on augmente de 72 m, on avait 29 m + 72 = 101. Après avoir tricoté 2 fois les diagrammes en hauteur, vous aurez 101+ 72 = 173 m et ainsi de suite jusqu'à ce que vous ayez tricoté 7 fois les diag. en hauteur = 533 m. Bon tricot!

20.09.2014 - 10:26

country flag Alylla wrote:

Bonjour ! Superbe modèle, mais je bloque au niveau des explications. J'ai tricoté 1 fois A3A2A1 en hauteur, et j'ai bien obtenu 101 mailles ; mais je ne sais pas comment continuer ! Pour le 25ème rang, cela donnerait donc 49 mailles de chaque ôté de la maille centrale, + 2 mailles extérieures au point mousse. Mais je ne comprends pas comment se répartissent les diagrammes le long du rang ! Pouvez vous me dire, maille par maille, comment je dois tricoter le 25ème rang ? Merci :)

19.09.2014 - 12:49

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Alylla, quand vous avez tricoté 1 fois les diagrammes A.1, A.2 et A.3 en hauteur, recommencez comme avant, c'est-à-dire A.1 sur les premières m, répétez A.2 une fois de plus que la dernière fois en hauteur, puis A.3 sur les dernières m. Ainsi, on tricote 2 fois A.2 entre A.1 et A.3 la 2ème fois, puis 3 fois A.2 entre A.1 et A.3 la 3ème fois et ainsi de suite. Bon tricot!

19.09.2014 - 16:28

country flag Sahut wrote:

Bonjour, les explications de ce modèle débutent par "Se tricole en allers et retours sur l'aiguille circulaire de HAUT EN BAS à partir de l'encolure....". Ne serait-ce pas plutôt de BAS EN HAUT ? On doit monter 3 mailles en tout début et ensuite augmenter au fur et à mesure de l'avancement, ce qui fait que c'est de bas en haut ? Cordialement,

29.08.2014 - 11:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Sahut, le châle se tricote à partir de l'encolure, avec des augm. de chaque côté et au milieu pour créer la pointe du bas. La vidéo ci-dessous vous montre comment démarrer. Bon tricot!

29.08.2014 - 13:31