DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Jonathan

Knitted jumper with textured pattern and shawl collar in DROPS Nepal. Size children 3 to 12 years.

DROPS Children 23-28
DROPS design: Pattern no NE-003-bn
Yarn group C
-----------------------------------------------------------
Size: 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 64-70-78-84-92 cm / 25 1/4"-27½"-30 3/4"-33"-36 1/4"
Full length: 40-43-46-49-52 cm / 15 3/4"-17"-18"-19 1/4"-20½"

Materials: DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
Colour no 0501, grey:
350-400-450-450-550 g

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') SIZE 5 mm / US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') SIZE 4.5 mm / US 7 - for rib.

DROPS WOOD BUTTON DUFFLE NO 520: 1 pc all sizes

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Diagram shows pattern from RS.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by working 2 sts in the same st.
----------------------------------------------------------

BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 112-126-140-154-154 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with dark gray Nepal. K 1 round. Then work next round as follows: * K 1, P 2, K 1, P 3 *, repeat from *-* the entire round. Continue rib like this. AT THE SAME TIME when 2 rounds in rib have been worked, switch to gray and work with gray until finished measurements.
When rib measures 5 cm / 2'', dec all 3 P sts to 2 P (by P 2 tog) = 96-108-120-132-132 sts. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and work pattern A.1.
When piece measures 6-6-7-7-7 cm / 2½"-2½"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4", insert 2 markers in the piece; 1 marker at beg of round and 1 marker after 48-54-60-66-66 sts.
Now inc 1 st - READ INCREASE TIP - on each side of every marker. Repeat inc every 7-7½-8-9-4½ cm / 2 3/4"-2 7/8"-3 1/8"-3½"-1 3/4", 2-2-2-2-5 more times (= a total of 3-3-3-3-6 inc) = 108-120-132-144-156 sts - NOTE: Work the inc sts in the pattern.
When piece measures 27-29-31-33-35 cm / 10½"-11½"-12 1/4"-13"-13 3/4" work next row as follows: bind off 3 sts for armhole, work 18-21-21-24-27 sts in pattern as before (= left front piece), bind off the next 12-12-18-18-18 sts for neck, work 18-21-21-24-27 sts (= right front piece), bind off 6 sts for armhole, work 48-54-60-66-72 sts (= back piece) and bind off the 3 remaining sts for armhole.
Finish each piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 48-54-60-66-72 sts. Continue back and forth with pattern as before - AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armholes at beg of every row in each side as follows: 2 sts 1-1-1-2-2 times and 1 st 1-1-1-2-2 times = 42-48-54-54-60 sts.
Work until piece measures 38-41-44-47-50 cm / 15"-16 1/8"-17 1/4"-18½"-19 3/4". Now bind off the middle 10-10-16-16-16 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to bind off 1 st on next row from neck = 15-18-18-18-21 sts remain on the shoulder.
Continue until piece measures 40-43-46-49-52 cm / 15 3/4"-17"-18"-19 1/4"-20½" and bind off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 18-21-21-24-27 sts. Continue back and forth with pattern as before while AT THE SAME TIME binding off for armhole at beg of every row from the side as on back piece = 15-18-18-18-21 sts.
Continue pattern until piece measures 40-43-46-49-52 cm / 15 3/4"-17"-18"-19 1/4"-20½" and bind off - NOTE: bind off on same row in pattern as on back piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 18-21-21-24-27 sts. Work as right front piece but reversed.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 35-35-42-42-42 sts on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 with dark gray. K 1 round. Then work next round as follows: * K 1, P 2, K 1, P 3 *, repeat from *-* the entire round. Continue rib like this. AT THE SAME TIME when 2 rounds in rib have been worked, switch to gray and work with gray until finished measurements.
When rib measures 5 cm / 2'', dec all 3 P sts to 2 P sts = 30-30-36-36-36 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 and work pattern A.1. When piece measures 6 cm / 2½'', insert a marker at the beg of round. Now inc 2 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. 1 st on each side of marker), repeat inc every 3½-4½-5-4-4½ cm / 1 1/4"-1 7/8"-2"-1½"-1 7/8 a total of 6-6-6-9-9 times = 42-42-48-54-54 sts - work the inc sts in pattern.
When piece measures 28-33-36-41-46 cm / 11"-13"-14 1/4"-16"-18", bind off 6 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. cast/bind off 3 sts on each side of marker) and work the sleeve back and forth on needle until finished measurements.
Bind off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side as follows: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 1 time. Then bind off 2 sts at beg of every row in each side until piece measures 32-37-41-46-52 cm / 12½"-14½"-16"-18"-20½", then bind off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows.
Bind off the remaining sts, piece measures approx. 33-38-42-47-53 cm / 13"-15"-16½"-18½"-21".

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves.

SHAWL COLLAR:
Start mid front on the left side of sts bound off for neck (i.e. on right front piece). Pick up on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with gray as follows: 27 to 36 sts up to shoulder, then pick up 15 to 21 sts in the back of neck, and finally 27 to 36 sts down along left side of neck dec = 69 to 93 sts (NOTE: Do not pick up where sts were bound off at front of neck).
K 1 row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly to 87-93-105-111-111 sts. Then work rib as follows (from RS): 1 edge st which is worked K on all rows, * K 1, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, finish with K 1 and 1 edge st which is worked K on all rows. Continue rib like this until collar measures approx. 3-3-5-5-5 cm / 1"-1"-2"-2"-2". Now inc 1 K st in each of the middle 10-12-12-14-14 K sts seen from RS (= back of neck) = 97-105-117-125-125 sts. Work rib until collar measures 6-6-10-10-10 cm / 2½"-2½"-4"-4"-4". Switch to dark gray and work 2 rows in rib as before, then loosely bind off with K over K and P over P.
Place the collar double (right side over left side) at the bottom of neck opening and fasten neatly with stitches to neck line through both layers - outermost edge st in each side on collar are sewn edge to edge in front loop of outermost st towards bind off edge mid front.

BUTTON LOOP:
Make one loop as follows: Twist 2 strands of 40 cm/15 3/4" in gray and fold them double. Attach the strap about 3 cm/1" up from the neckline (about 1 cm/½" from the front edge).
Pull the strands through the collar on the right front piece (right after the dark gray edge) and fasten the ends on the back.
Sew button onto the collar on the left front piece, about 3 cm/1" up from the neckline.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 30.09.2016
Materials: DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
Colour no 0501, grey:
350-400-450-450-550 g

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Children 23-28

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (47)

country flag Anne Nguyen wrote:

Hi, Please kindly help Right Front Piece binding off question. I pick up 27 sts on RS, do I bind off right RS only and how many stitch each time I need to bind off.

04.01.2023 - 19:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Nguyen, in the larger size, you work 27 sts for the right front piece, you will now cast off for the armhole at the beginning of every row from wrong side: 2 sts 2 times and 1 stitch 2 times = 21 sts remain - work until piece measures 52 cm (adjust to back piece) and cast off. Work the 27 sts from left front piece binding off for armhole at the beginning of row from right side 2 sts 2 times and 1 stitch 2 times = 21 sts remain and finish as right front piece. Happy knitting!

05.01.2023 - 10:57

country flag Rhonda wrote:

The sweater is looking lovely so far but I’m not sure I understand the directions for the increase at the back of the collar! It states to increase 1knit stitch in the middle of 14 knit stitches at the back of the neck. Should I increase 1knit stitch between the 14 middle stitches even if they are purl stitches? Then how do you make the ribbing look like it should continue on. At this point it calls for k 1 and purl 2. After the increase what happens?\r\nThanks \r\nRhonda

02.01.2022 - 23:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Rhonda, You increase in each knitted section over these stitches so you end up with a short section of new rib (knit 2, purl 2) at the back of the neck. Hope this helps and happy knitting!

03.01.2022 - 07:43

country flag Rhonda wrote:

Confused about the A1 pattern. Is it knit 1 row, then knit another row, then k 1, P2,k1,P2 across the row. Then Knit the next row and start again?

06.10.2021 - 20:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rhonda, you got it right, for knitting the pattern on the round. As the diagram shows the pattern from teh RS, when knitted back and fourth (like at the shoulders) the 2nd and the 4th rows will be purled. Happy Stitching!

06.10.2021 - 22:49

country flag Helen wrote:

After the increasing on the back of the collar, do I rib as k2, p2 or k1, p3? The underside of the rib looks very different to the front and this is on show when the collar is turned back. I’m unsure how to minimise this effect.

02.07.2021 - 23:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Helen, you start the ribbing as K1, P2 ribbing, and then increase (at the middle stitches) to K2, P2. It is done to have the collar fold out nicely. Happy Stitching.

03.07.2021 - 06:46

country flag Annarosa wrote:

Correggo e chiedo scusa è una svista da parte mia , sia il modello che le spiegazioni sono precise, grazie di tutto

13.04.2021 - 07:50

country flag Annarosa wrote:

Buongiorno, sto eseguendo la misura 122/128 e guardando sia la spiegazione scritta che lo schema in centimetri mi accorgo che non corrispondono i 31 cm dello scritto ai 46 dello schema cioè : se devo ottenere 46 cm totali compreso l' elastico non posso raggiungere 31 cm di lavorato ma ne devo raggiungere 41. P enso che lo schema chiarisce molto quindi mi attengo allo schema che è molto attendibile anche misurando il lavoro, oppure ho interpretato male?

13.04.2021 - 07:20

country flag Monica Wallander wrote:

Jag stickade den minsta storleken och köpte angiven mängd garn =350 g. det blev 130 g över, Det betyder att angiven mängd inte stämmer. Har haft motsatt problem med andra modeller, dvs att garnet inte räckte. Provstickar ni inte alla storlekar? Mvh Monica

08.02.2021 - 11:00

country flag Birgitte wrote:

Sjalskrave: ved udtagningen af 12 masker efter 5 cm, hvordan strikkes de udtagne masker, ret eller vrang, således at der strikkes videre med 2 ret 2 vrang, eller 1 ret og 3 vrang Tak for hjælpen

15.11.2020 - 19:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Birgitte, du tager ud i retmaskerne bag i nakken og de strikkes videre i ret. God fornøjelse!

23.11.2020 - 15:45

country flag Jacolien Gonggrijp wrote:

Is bij rondbreien de binnen of de buiten kant de goede kant?

12.11.2020 - 14:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Jacolien,

Tenzij anders aangegeven is de buitenkant, dus de kant die naar je toe zit tijdens het breien en dus ziet tijdens het breien, de goede kant.

14.11.2020 - 10:24

country flag Anki Svensson wrote:

Är det rätt att man ska ha strumpstickor till ärmarna? Blir tveksam när jag ser att man sätter markör och ökar en maska på var sida markören ? Hur gör jag det?

19.09.2020 - 16:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anki. Har du korte nok rundpinner kan du fint bruke det. Om du får problemer med markøren og økninger der man også bytter settpinner, kan du fint forskyve maskene over på den ene pinnen når det skal økes, slik at du har en bedre oversikt. Man må ikke ha samme antall masker på alle pinnene.m God Fornøyelse!

21.09.2020 - 11:15