DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 49.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24
DROPS 132-31
DROPS design: Pattern no LI-006
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 98-108-116-128-138-150 cm / 38½"-42½"-45¾"-50½"-54¼"-59"
Full length: 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm / 26¾"-27½"-28⅜"-29⅛"-30"-30¾"

Materials: DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio
Color no 7810, moss/seed green:
750-800-900-1000-1100-1200 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32") size 5 mm/ US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 28 rows in seed st = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".

DROPS Dark buffelhorn buttons #537: 3 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 49.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
SEED ST:
1st row: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-*.
2nd row: K over P and P over K.
Repeat 2nd row.
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RIGHT FRONT PIECE + SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on a circular needle to make room for all the sts.
Cast on 45-49-51-55-61-65 sts (includes 1 edge st in the side) on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Lima. Work rib as follows from mid front (1st row = RS): K 1 edge st on all rows, * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K 1 and K 1 edge st on all rows. When rib measures 3 cm / 1⅛", K 1 row from WS, then continue in SEED ST over all sts – see explanation above!
REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 10 cm / 4", inc 1 st in the side. Repeat inc every 8-8-8-9-9-9 cm / 3⅛"-3⅛"-3⅛"-3½"-3½"-3½" a total of 5 times.
When piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm / 13⅜"-13¾"-14¼"-14½"-15"-15¼", bind off for 1 button hole as follows from RS: Work 3 sts as before, K 2 tog, make 1 YO, work the rest of row. Repeat bind off for button hole 2 more times 5 cm / 2" apart.
Size XXL + XXXL:
At the same time when piece measures approx. 40 cm / 15¾", dec 1 st for neck by K tog the outermost 2 sts towards mid front. Repeat dec when piece measures 55 cm / 21½".
ALL SIZES:
When piece measures 48-49-50-51-52-53 cm / 19"-19¼"-19¾"-20"-20½"-21", beg to cast on new sts for sleeve. Cast on sts at the end of every row from RS: 5 sts 7 times and 22-19-18-15-11-8 sts 1 time. When inc for sleeve are done, insert 1 marker - NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work until piece measures approx. 13-14-15-16-17-18 cm / 5⅛"-5½"-6"-6¼"-6¾"-7" from marker (adjust so that next row is worked from RS). When all dec and inc are done, there are 107-108-109-110-110-111 sts on needle. Work the outermost 15 sts towards mid front, and then slip them on a stitch holder = 92-93-94-95-95-96 sts remain on needle. Insert a new marker (= mid on top of shoulder) – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work 2 cm / ¾" back and forth over all sts on needle, and then slip them on a new stitch holder.

LEFT FRONT PIECE + SLEEVE:
Work as right front piece but reversed. Work the outermost 15 sts at the top by shoulder towards mid front from WS before slipping them on a stitch holder. Work 2 cm / ¾" back and forth over the remaining sts, finish after 1 row from WS. Continue with back piece without slipping sts on a stitch holder.

BACK PIECE:
Work sts from left front piece + sleeve, cast on 16-16-18-20-22-24 new sts (= back of neck) and work right front piece + sleeve on to circular needle = 200-202-206-210-212-216 sts.
Continue in seed st until piece measures 13-14-15-16-17-18 cm / 5⅛"-5½"-6"-6¼"-6¾"-7" from marker. Now bind off at beg of every row in each side: 22-19-18-15-11-8 sts 1 time and 5 sts 7 times = 86-94-100-110-120-130 sts. Insert a marker – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work 6-7-8-5-6-7 cm / 2⅜"-2¾"-3⅛"-2"-2⅜"-2¾" from marker. Now dec 1 st in each side, repeat dec every 8-8-8-9-9-9 cm / 3⅛"-3⅛"-3⅛"-3½"-3½"-3½" a total of 5 times = 76-84-90-100-110-120 sts. When piece measures 45-46-47-48-49-50 cm / 17¾"-18"-18½"-19"-19¼"-19¾" from marker, K 1 row from WS while at the same time inc 1 st = 77-85-91-101-111-121 sts. Then continue in rib as follows (from RS): K 1 edge st on all rows, * P 1, K 1 *, repeat with *-* and finish with P 1 and K 1 edge st on all rows. When rib measures approx. 3 cm / 1⅛" (adjust according to front piece), bind off with K over K and P over P.

COLLAR:
Slip the 15 sts from stitch holder on right front piece back on circular needle. Cast on 1 new st towards the shoulder = 16 sts. K all rows - AT THE SAME TIME work short rows as follows (from mid front): * Work 2 rows over all sts, work 2 rows over the outermost 10 sts towards mid front *, repeat from *-* until piece measures approx. 5-5-6-6-7-7 cm / 2"-2"-2⅜"-2⅜"-2¾"-2¾" in the shorter side. Bind off. Work the same way over sts from stitch holder on left front piece. Sew collar parts tog mid back, and sew collar to back of neck inside edge st.

RIB ON SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Knit up from RS inside 1 edge st at the bottom of one sleeve: 48-52-56-58-64-66 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Lima. K 1 row from WS. Then work rib = K 1/P 1 with 1 edge st in each side which is K on all rows. When rib measures approx. 6 cm / 2⅜", bind off with K over K and P over P. Repeat on the edge of the other sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the side and sleeve seams inside 1 edge st.
Sew on buttons.




Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 132-31

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Comments / Questions (59)

country flag Elena wrote:

Hej, Jeg kan ikke forstå hvordan strikker man krave?

31.01.2024 - 18:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Elena, jo du fortsætter bare maskerne fra forkanten om bag i nakken. For at maskerne ikke skal stramme når du former kraven, så strikker du vendepinde over de yderste 10 masker således: Strik 16m vend og strik 16 m tilbage, strik 10m, vend og strik 10 masker tilbage, således fortsætter du :)

02.02.2024 - 12:09

country flag Angélique wrote:

Bonjour! Je voudrais être sûre d'avoir bien compris: on commence le tricot par le bas du devant, on tricote-on tricote jusqu'aux épaules puis on redescend et on le termine par le bas du dos? La débutante que je suis se demande si ça ne fait pas un peu bizarre de voir des mailles tête-bêche de chaque côté des coutures , notamment au niveau des côtes 1/1 du bas...Merci d'avance de m'éclairer! Cordialement.

29.09.2023 - 10:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Angélique, vous ferez ensuite les coutures des côtés à 1 maille des bords, je ne vois donc aucun souci. Bon tricot!

02.10.2023 - 08:33

country flag Barbro Nordström wrote:

Hej Jag förstår inte hur jag skall sticka krage? Kan ni hjälpa mig?

04.05.2023 - 21:37

DROPS Design answered:

Kragen stickas med förkortade varv. Dvs. du stickar först 2 varv fram och tillbaka över alla maskor, sedan stickar du 1 varv över de yttersta 10 maskorna mitt fram, vänd arb och sticka tillbaka över dessa 10 maskor. Upprepa dessa fyra varv enligt beskrivningen.

08.05.2023 - 18:05

country flag CRISTINA MENTASTI wrote:

Ho lavorato il davanti dx e poi il sx. Ora dovrei aumentare di 20 maglie per il collo e riprendere le maglie del davanti dx. Mi ritrovo sul ferro 210 maglie ma... tornando col primo ferro sul davanti dx l'ultimo punto che dovrei lavorare è un rovescio, quindi le 20 maglie del collo 1 dir, 1 rov (20^ maglia) e poi la prima maglia che trovo del davanti sx è ancora un rovescio... come posso fare? Grazie

25.02.2023 - 13:52

country flag Nicole wrote:

D'accord! J'ai lu trop rapidement les explications, je reprends ainsi avec confiance mon tricot. J'en profite pour vous remercier pour la qualité de vos explications, c'est le plus souvent clair. Et méritoire , vue la difficulté de certains modèles! Merci encore.

19.10.2022 - 10:32

country flag Nicole wrote:

Merci de votre réponse. "A environ 40 et 55 cm : -2x1m puis : quand toutes les aug et dim sont faites , il reste 108m". Donc pour vous 108m sans les dim, pour moi 108 -2 = 106. ce n'est pas mieux!

19.10.2022 - 09:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nicole, ces diminutions à 40 et 55 cm ne concernent que les tailles XXL et XXXL, autrement dit, vous ne diminuez pas pas en taille M. Bon tricot!

19.10.2022 - 10:28

country flag Nicole wrote:

Pour la taille M: 49 m au départ. 10 cm de haut: +1m puis 5x1, soit +6m donc 55 m. Encolure : à 40cm -1m, à 55 cm-1m, soit 55 -2 =53m. A 49 cm manches: +7x5m puis +19m, soit +54 m . Au total 53 +54 107 et non 108. C'est ennuyeux de partir sur un compte faux. Qu'est-ce que je n'ai pas compris? Merci

18.10.2022 - 23:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nicole, vous devez augmenter 5 fois sur le côté, pas 6 - cf réponse et détail ci-dessous. Bon tricot!

19.10.2022 - 09:34

country flag Nicole wrote:

Ma question semble avoir été effacée. Merci de me dire si c'est le cas. En gros (je n'ai pas envie de tout recommencer, c'est assez dur de respecter le nombre de caractères), je ne suis pas d'accord sur le nombre de mailles pour la taille M . J'arrive à 107 pour le devant et pas à 108. Pas très important, sauf si l'imprécision du modèle continue, je n'ai pas très envie de m'y lancer.

18.10.2022 - 23:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nicole, vous devez bien avoir 108 mailles en M: vous montez 49 mailles et augmentez 5 fois (au total, pas encore 5 fois après la 1ère augmentation) = 54 mailles, puis montez 7 x 5 mailles + 1 x 19 mailles soit 54+35+19=108 mailles. Bon tricot!

19.10.2022 - 09:34

country flag Christine wrote:

Several people in the comments have said the sleeves are too short when this is knittted. I would like to knit this pattern but want the sleeves the length as in the photo. Is there a correction required to this pattern ? Or, why are the sleeves coming up shorter than the photo for several people?

04.10.2022 - 23:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Christine, measure a similar garment you have and like the shape and compare these measurements to those in the chart, (ex. 64-65-66-67-68-69 cm is half the wingspann of the whole jacket from mid-neck to the wrist edge) - so that you can adjust measurements if necessary. Happy knitting!

05.10.2022 - 08:13

country flag Marry Rijkenberg wrote:

Ik wil dit vest op gewone breinaalden breien,gaat dat?

01.11.2020 - 12:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marry,

De reden dat je met rondbreinaalden breit is omdat er op een gegeven moment heel veel steken op de naald zitten. Er wordt verder wel gewoon heen en weer gebreid en niet in de rondte).

Veel andere patronen zijn wel geschikt om aan te passen zodat je ze met rechte naalden kunt breien. Hiervoor hebben we een uitleg gemaakt. Deze vind je hier.

03.11.2020 - 13:33