DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 97.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Høstglede

Crochet DROPS jacket in 2 threads ”Alpaca” with squares and dc-pattern. Size S to XXXL.

DROPS 115-36
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-450

Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-94-106-116-126-136 cm / 33’’-37’’-41¾’’-45¾’’-49½’’-53½’’
Full length: 63-63-63-74-74-74 cm / 24¾’’-24¾’’-24¾’’-29 1/8-29 1/8-29 1/8

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
700-750-850-900-1000-1100 g color no 506, dark gray
150-150-150-200-200-200 g color no 517, medium gray:
150-150-150-200-200-200 g color no 100, off-white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 1 square = 10.5 x 10.5 cm / 4¼” x 4¼” and 18 dc x 10 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.

DROPS Buffalo horn buttons no 536: 5 pcs.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 97.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET TIP: Replace first dc on row with 3 ch.

PATTERN:
ROW 1: 3 ch, 2 dc in first ch-loop, * 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 ch and 1 dc in 3rd ch from beg of previous row, turn piece. Repeat row 1.

STRIPES:
Crochet 3 rows with dark gray, then 1 row of each color as follows: off-white, medium gray, dark gray, medium gray, dark gray, off-white, medium gray, off-white, dark gray, off-white, dark gray, medium gray, off-white, complete piece in dark gray.

DECREASING TIP (sleeve):
Dec 1 dc-group (= 3 dc + 1 ch) at the end of row by working row until 1 dc-group remain, turn and work return row.
Dec 1 dc-group at beg of row by working sl sts to 2nd dc-group on row and continue as before.
----------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------

JACKET:
Crochet 11-11-11-12-12-12 squares for each front piece and 4-5-6-7-8-9 squares for the bottom of back piece = a total of 26-27-28-31-32-33 squares. Also crochet 1 large square for the top of back piece. The rest of front pieces and back piece is worked in rows of dc, and the sleeves are worked in stripes and dc-groups.
The whole jacket is crochet in double thread Alpaca.

COLORS OF SQUARES:
SQUARE A: Beg + round 1 = dark gray, round 2 = medium gray, round 3 = off-white, round 4 = medium gray, round 5 = dark gray.
SQUARE B: Beg + round 1 = medium gray, round 2 = off-white, round 3 = dark gray, round 4 = medium gray, round 5 = dark gray.
SQUARE C: Beg + round 1 = off-white, round 2 = medium gray, round 3 = dark gray, round 4 = off-white, round 5 = dark gray.
SQUARE D: Beg + round 1 = medium gray, round 2 = dark gray, round 3 = off-white, round 4 = medium gray, round 5 = dark gray.

NUMBER OF SQUARES:
Crochet 6-6-7-9-9-9 squares of A, 6-7-7-8-9-10 squares of B, 7-7-7-7-7-7 squares of C and 7-7-7-7-7-7 squares of D = a total of 26-27-28-31-32-33 squares.

SQUARE:
Crochet 6 ch with crochet hook size 4 mm / G/6 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: 3 ch, 2 dc in ring, * 3 ch, 3 dc in ring*, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times and finish with 3 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Turn piece.
ROUND 2: 3 ch, 2 dc in first ch-loop, 3 ch, 3 dc in the the same ch-loop, * 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 3 ch, 3 dc in the same ch-loop *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, finish with 1 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Turn piece.
ROUND 3: 3 ch, 2 dc in first ch-loop, 1 ch, * 3 dc in next ch-loop, 3 ch, 3 dc in the same ch-loop, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 3 ch, 3 dc in the same ch-loop, 1 ch, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Turn piece.
ROUND 4: 3 ch, 2 dc in first ch-loop, 1 ch, * 3 dc in next ch-loop, 3 ch, 3 dc in the same ch-loop, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 3 ch, 3 dc in the same ch-loop, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 1 ch, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Turn piece.
ROUND 5: 3 ch, 2 dc in first ch-loop, 1 ch, * 3 dc in next ch-loop, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 3 ch, 3 dc in the same ch-loop, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 3 ch, 3 dc in the same ch-loop, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 1 ch, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
1 square measures approx 10.5 x 10.5 cm / 4¼” x 4¼”.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew squares tog, edge to edge in outer loops of sts – fig-1a shows left front piece, fig-1b shows right front piece and fig-1c shows back piece – see chart for your size.

LARGE SQUARE:
Crochet 1 large square in the same way, but after round 5 continue in the round in the same way until there are a total of 12 rounds.
Colors for the large square are as follows:
Beg + round 1 = dark gray, round 2 = medium gray, round 3 = off-white, round 4 = dark gray, round 5 = medium gray, round 6 = dark gray, round 7 = off-white, round 8 = medium gray, round 9 = dark gray, round 10 = medium gray, round 11 = off-white and round 12 = dark gray. Square measures approx 22 x 22 cm / 8¾” x 8¾”.

BACK PIECE + SIDE PIECE:
Crochet back piece with 2 threads dark gray and crochet hook size 4 mm / G/6. Crochet 76-94-114-132-152-170 dc along the top of the 4-5-6-7-8-9 squares at bottom of back piece/side piece (= approx 19 dc along each square). Continue with 1 dc in each dc back and forth on these sts – replace first dc on row with 3 ch.
When piece measures 14 cm / 5½’’ (includes crochet squares) dec 1 dc each side by skipping the last but one dc each side. Repeat the dec on every other row a total of 6 times = 64-82-102-120-140-158 dc. When piece measures 28 cm / 11’’ inc 1 dc each side by working 2 dc in the last but one dc each side, and repeat the inc on every other row a total of 6 times = 76-94-114-132-152-170 dc. Continue until piece measures the same as the 4 crochet squares on front piece each side (= approx 42 cm / 16½’’). Cut the thread.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE + HALF BACK PIECE:
Beg along the top of the 4th square on right front piece. Crochet 19 dc on this square, then 19-28-38-47-57-66 dc on back piece/side piece (the large square will be place over the middle 38 dc on back piece) = 38-47-57-66-76-85 dc.
Crochet dc back and forth on these sts until piece measures a total of 43-43-43-50-50-50 cm / 17”-17”-17”-19¾”-19¾”-19¾”. Now dec for armhole:
FRONT PIECE:
Crochet on the first 16-20-24-27-30-33 dc (the next 6-7-9-12-16-19 dc = armhole), turn and work return row. Now continue back and forth on these sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 dc towards armhole on every row a total of 3-5-7-8-9-11 times = 13-15-17-19-21-22 dc left on shoulder. Continue until piece measures the same as front piece less 1 square (the last square is to be sewn to neckline on back piece) – armhole measures approx 20-20-20-24-24-24 cm / 8”-8”-8”-9½”-9½”-9½”, cut the thread.
BACK PIECE:
Dec for armhole as described for front piece and continue until armhole measures the same as for front piece

LEFT FRONT PIECE + HALF BACK PIECE: Like right front piece + half back piece, but mirrored.

SLEEVE:
Crochet 55-55-55-63-63-63 ch (includes 3 ch to turn with) with 2 threads dark gray and crochet hook size 4 mm / G/6.
ROW 1: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in next ch, * 1 ch, skip 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 3 ch *, repeat from *-* until 2 ch remain, 1 ch, skip the last but one ch and work 1 dc in the last ch = 40-40-40-46-46-46 dc.
Continue in PATTERN and STRIPES – see above = 13-13-13-15-15-15 whole dc-groups on row.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 20 cm / 8’’ inc 1 dc-group at one side by working 2 dc-groups in the last but one ch. When piece measures 25 cm / 9¾” inc in the same way at the other side of piece. Repeat the inc on alternately sides on every 4 cm / 1½’’ until there are a total of 3 inc each side = 19-19-19-21-21-21 whole dc-groups on row.
When piece measures 49-48-47-46-45-44 cm / 19¼’’-19’’-18½’’-18’’-17¾’’-17¼’’ (less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder) dec for sleeve cap – SEE DECREASING TIP – as follows: dec 1 dc-group each side on every row until piece measures 56 cm / 22’’, cut the thread.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew all seams edge to edge in outer loops of sts with dark gray. Sew back piece/side piece to squares on front piece. Sew the large square to the opening at the top of back piece and sew shoulder seams. Sew the top square on each front piece tog mid back and sew them to neckline on back piece.
Sew sleeve seams and set in sleeves.

CROCHET BORDER + BUTTONHOLE LOOPS:
Crochet with 2 threads dark gray and crochet hook size 4 mm / G/6 up along right front piece, along neckline on back piece, and down along left front piece as follows: 1 sc in each dc and 1 sc in each ch, AT THE SAME TIME on right front piece crochet 5 buttonhole loops. 1 buttonhole loop = 3 ch, skip 1 cm/ 3/8’’, 1 sc. Place the bottom loop approx 10 cm/ 4’’ from bottom edge, then approx 8 cm/ 3 1/8’’ between each loop.
Sew buttons to left front piece to fit buttonhole loops.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 115-36

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (63)

country flag Andrea R wrote:

Jeg hækler med nål 4 … de små granny squares passer perfekt i størrelsen. Den store firkant til ryggen måler dog 23 cm og ikke 22 cm som der står i opskriften. Hvad gør jeg ?

22.10.2022 - 14:28

country flag Uta Grosse wrote:

Ich verstehe die Zunahmen an den Ärmeln nicht.!?

15.03.2022 - 08:10

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Grosse, die Zunahmen werden zuerst an einer Seite dann das nächste Mal an der anderen Seite gehäkelt: um die letzte Luftmaschen am Ende einer Reihe häkeln Sie anstatt (3 Stb, 1 lm): 3 Stb, 1 lm, 3 Stb, 1 lm; dann enden Sie mit 1 lm, 1 Stb in das lezte Stb. Das nächste Mal nehmen Sie genauso zu, aber auf der anderen Seite. Kann das Ihnen helfen?

15.03.2022 - 10:01

country flag Maja wrote:

I rygstk. er jeg ikke helt med, når der står at der skal tages 1 st ind i hver side ved at hoppe 1 over. Er lidt i tvivl om jeg skal starte med 3 lm og dernæst springe den næste over, og ligeledes i sidste ende, om jeg skal springe 1 over og dernæst lave 1 st.

22.02.2021 - 22:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Maja, hvis du skal tage 1 maske ind i siden, så vender du arbejdet 1 maske før den sidste :)

24.02.2021 - 15:40

country flag Janni Olsen wrote:

Hvordan skal man lave den udtagning på ærmerne i stangmaske grupperne . Synes hvis jeg laver den som beskrevet i næst yderste luftmaske så buer den .

15.06.2020 - 21:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Janni, det er sådan vi har gjort det. Det buer sikkert mindre når du har hæklet et par rækker mere. God fornøjelse!

16.06.2020 - 07:58

country flag Sigal wrote:

Hi, Thanks for the reply: "you will skip the 2nd stitch at the beg of the row and the next to last stich at the end of the same row = 2 dc decreased on row" but looking at your video of decreasing I'm still confused, you do sc there, so just want to make sure. If I have 10 dc in a raw, I do ch 3, skip one dc, 6 dc, skip 1 dc, 1 dc (total 8 dc)? Thank you very much, your patterns are lovely.

21.05.2019 - 08:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sigal, that's it, it's how you are intended to work the decreases. Happy crocheting!

21.05.2019 - 10:02

country flag Sigal wrote:

Hi, working on back piece: dec 1 dc each side by skipping the last but one dc each side. Repeat the dec on every other row a total of 6 times... What does it mean the last but one? But what? And Repeat every other row - not every row? Thank you

19.05.2019 - 11:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sigal, you will skip the 2nd stitch at the beg of the row and the next to last stich at the end of the same row = 2 dc decreased on row. Work 1 row without decreasing, then repeat these 2 rows 5 more times (= 6 rows with decrease in total). Happy crocheting!

20.05.2019 - 12:23

country flag Sigal Zahavi wrote:

Hello, I'm a bit confused, can you please explain to me what is this pattern part for? PATTERN: ROW 1: 3 ch, 2 tr in first ch-loop, * 1 ch, 3 tr in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 ch and 1 tr in 3rd ch from beg of previous row, turn piece. Repeat row 1. What do I need to do with it when it's done?

07.05.2019 - 10:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Zahavi, when you are working pattern, repeat row 1, ie at the end of 1st row, turn and repeat as previous row and continue like this, it's a 1-row-pattern. Happy crocheting!

07.05.2019 - 13:20

country flag Franziska Haidbauer wrote:

Habe eine frage , wieviel Wolle braucht man für die ganze Jacke. Steht nämlich nicht dabei. LG Franziska Haidbauer

18.04.2019 - 18:30

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Haidbauer, die gesamte Garnmenge in jeder Farbe finden Sie im Kopfsprung für jeder Grösse. 1 Knäuel Alpaca = 50 g, so braucht man z.B. in 1. Größe: 700 g Fb 506 = 14 Knäuel Fb 506 + je 3 Knäuel Fb 517 + Farbe 100 (= 150 g jeder Farbe). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

23.04.2019 - 11:49

country flag Caroline wrote:

Jag virkar denna i XL och har upptäckt ett fel i beskrivningen i de tre större storlekarna. Eftersom bakstycket mäter 42 cm i alla storlekar innan det delas och framstycke samt halva bakstycke virkas var för sig kommer inte den stora mormorsrutan att täcka rygghålet då bakstycket ska mäta 50 cm innan ärmhålsminskning mot 43 cm i de mindre, samt att ärmhålet mäter 4 cm mer på höjden än i S/M/L. Detta har det inte kompenserats för i mönstret, varför det inte går att få ihop.

16.01.2019 - 00:33

country flag Katja wrote:

Hallo, werden die Granny-Squares auch alle mit 2 Fäden gehäkelt oder nur mit einem Faden, und dafür der ganze Rest (Rückenteil, Ärmel etc. - alles was in dunkelgrau ist) mit 2 Fäden? Danke für die Hilfe! Katja

29.11.2018 - 22:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Katja, die ganze Jacke wird mit 2 Fäden gehäkelt, am besten nähen Sie die Quadrate auch mit 2 Fäden zusammen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

30.11.2018 - 08:18