DROPS Highlander
DROPS Highlander
90% Wool, 10% Nylon
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
DROPS Super Sale

Winter Elegance

Crochet Drops jacket in ”Highlander” with decorative edges in ”Snow”. Size: S to XXXL

DROPS 102-28
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements around chest: 33’’-39’’-40’’-44’’-48 3/4’’-52 3/4’’
Full length: 28”-29 1/8”-30 3/8”-31½”-32 ¾”-33 7/8”

Materials: DROPS Highlander from Garnstudio
Color no 06, dark blue:
550-600-650-700-800-850 gr
and use: DROPS Snow from Garnstudio
Color no 32, blue mix:
100 g for all sizes


Or use:
DROPS Cloud from Garnstudio
Colour no 09, petrol:
550-600-650-700-800-850 g

and use DROPS Snow from Garnstudio
color no 40, brown mix: 100 g for all sizes

DROPS crochet hook size 8 mm [US L/11] – or the crochet hook size needed to obtain correct crochet gauge.

DROPS dark buffalo horn button, no 536:
5-6-6-6-6-7 pcs

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Highlander
DROPS Highlander
90% Wool, 10% Nylon
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Crochet gauge: 9 sc in width and 11 rows in height with Cloud = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’]

Crochet info: Turn each row with 1 ch.

Decreasing tip - 1 (slanted side): Dec 1 sts on each side crocheting 2 outermost sc tog, by go through the first sc and get yarn, then go through second sc and get yarn, make a yo and pull yarn through all 3 sts on crochet hook.

Bind off tip - 2 (armhole, neckline and sleeve top):
Bind off at end of row by crocheting up to the number of sc to be bound off remains on row, and then turn piece.
Bind off at beg of row by crocheting sl st over number of sc to be bound off.

Increasing tips: Increase 1 sts on each side by crocheting 2 sc in first and last sc of row.
---------------------------------------

Back piece:
Crochet 59-64-70-75-83-88 ch (includes 1 ch to turn with) on crochet hook size 8 mm [US L/11] with Highlander .
Crochet 1st row as follows: 1 sc in 2nd ch, 1 sc in each of next 2 ch, skip 1 ch, * 1 sc in each of next 3 ch, skip 1 ch * repeat from *-* and finish off with 1 sc in each of last 2-3-1-2-2-3 ch = 44-48-52-56-62-66 sc.
Continuing crochet 1 sc in each sc – read Crochet info.
When piece measures 15 cm [6’’] dec 1 sc – see Decreasing tip - 1 on each side of every 15th -16th -17th -18th -19th -20th cm [6”-6 ¼”-6 ¾”-7”-7½”-8”] 3 times in total = 38-42-46-50-56-60 sc.
Read next entire section before crocheting commences!
When piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm [20”-21”-21 5/8”-22½”-23¼”-24”] bind off 3 sc on each side for armhole – see Binding off tip - 2. Continuing dec 1 sc on each side on every row 1-2-4-5-8-9 times in total = 30-32-32-34-34-36 sts.
When piece measures 69-72-75-78-81-83 cm [27 1/8”-28 3/8”-29½”-30¾”-32”-32¾”] do not continue crocheting over middle 8-8-10-10-12-12 sc = 11-12-11-12-11-12 sc left on each shoulder (complete each side separately).
Crochet until piece measures 71-74-77-80-83-86 cm [28”-29 1/8”-30 3/8”-31½”-32 ¾”-33 7/8”]. Cut yarn.

Left front piece:
Crochet 38-40-43-46-51-54 ch (incl 1 ch to turn with) on crochet hook size 8 mm [US L/11] with Highlander .
Crochet 1st row as follows: 1 sc in 2nd ch, 1 sc in each of next 2 ch, skip 1 ch, * 1 sc in each of next 3 ch, skip 1 ch * repeat from *-* and finish off with 1 sc in each of last 1-3-2-1-2-1 ch = 28-30-32-34-38-40 sc.
Continuing crocheting 1 sc in each sc.
When piece measures 15 cm [6’’] dec on side as on back = 25-27-29-31-35-37 sc.
When piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm [20”-21”-21 5/8”-22½”-23¼”-24”] bind off and dec for armhole like back piece.
At the same time when piece measures 59-62-63-66-67-69 cm [23 1/4”-24 3/8”-24 ¾”-26”-26 3/8”-27 1/8”] bind off 5 sc towards mid front for neck. Continuing dec 1 sc towards neck on every other row 5-5-6-6-8-8 times in total.
When all dec are completed 11-12-11-12-11-12 sts are left on shoulder.
Cut thread when piece measures 71-74-77-80-83-86 cm [28”-29 1/8”-30 3/8”-31½”-32 ¾”-33 7/8”].

Right front piece:
Crochet like left front piece. Additionally make 5-6-6-6-6-7 buttonholes as follows: ch 2 over 3rd and 4th sc from mid front, on next row crochet 1 sc in each ch.
Make buttonhole when piece measures:
Size S: [10 ¼”-13 3/8”-16½”-19¾” and 22¾”].
Size M: [10 ¼”-13”-15 ¾”-18½”-21¼” and 24”].
Size L: [10 5/8”-13 3/8”-16 1/8”-19”-21 5/8” and 24 3/8”].
Size XL: [9 ¾”-13”-16 1/8”-19 ¼”-22½” and 25½”].
Size XXL: [10 ¼”-13 3/8”-16½”-19¾”-22¾” and 26”].
Size XXXL:[10 ¼”-13”-15 ¾”-18½”-21 ¼”-24” and 26 ¾”].


Sleeve:
Ch 27-30-30-31-31-34 (incl 1 ch to turn with) on crochet hook size 8 mm with Highlander .
Crochet 1st row as follows: 1 sc in 2nd ch, 1 sc in each of next 2 ch, skip 1 ch, * 1 sc in each of next 3 ch, skip 1 ch * repeat from *-* and finish off with 1 sc in each of last 2-1-2-2-1 ch = 20-22-22-23-23-25 sc.
Continuing crochet 1 sc in each sc.
At the same time when piece measures 8 cm [3 1/8’’] inc 1 sc on each side – read Increasing tip – on every 7th -7th-6th-5th-4th-4th cm [2 ¾”-2 ¾”-2 3/8”-2”-1½”-1½”] 6-6-7-8-9-9 times in total = 32-34-36-39-41-43 sc.
When piece measures 48-48-47-47-45-44 cm [19”-19”-18½”-18½”-17 ¾”-17 1/4”] bind off 3 sc on each side.
Then bind off to shape sleeve top on every other row as follows: 2 sc 1-1-1-2-2-2 times and 1 sc 1-1-2-1-2-3 times.
Continuing, bind off 2 sc on each side until piece measures 55-56-56-57-57-58 cm [21 5/8”-22”-22”-22½”-22½”-22 ¾”].
Now bind off 3 sc 1 time on each side.
Cut yarn. Crochet another sleeve.

Decorative pockets:
Ch 18-18-20-20-22-22 (incl 1 ch to turn with) on crochet hook size 8 mm [US L/11] with Highlander .
Crochet 1st row as follows: 1 sc in 2nd ch, 1 sc in each of next 2 ch, skip 1 ch, * 1 sc in each of next 3 ch, skip 1 ch * repeat from *-* and finish off with 1 sc in each of last 1-1-3-3-1-1 ch = 13-13-15-15-16-16 sc.
Continuing crochet 1 sc in each sc until approx 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm [2 3/8”-2 3/8”-2 3/8”-2 ¾”-2 ¾”-2 ¾”] is crochet. Cut yarn.

Assembly:
Sew shoulder seams in edge sts.

Collar:
Crochet 30 to 45 sc around neckline with Highlander on crochet hook size 8 mm [US L/11]. Continue with 1 sc in each sc until collar measures approx 12-12-12-14-14-14 cm [4 ¾”-4 ¾”-4 ¾”-5½”-5½”-5½”]. Cut yarn.

Crochet edge (around armhole):
Crochet around armhole with Snow on crochet hook size 8 mm [US L/11]. Begin mid under sleeve. Crochet 1 sc, * 1 ch, skip approx 1 cm [3/8’’], 1 sc in next sts *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in sc from beginning of round.

Assembly:
Sew in sleeves under the edge of Snow. Sew sleeve and side seams in outermost edge to avoid thick seams. Sew on decorative pockets mid on front piece approx 7 to 9 cm [2 3/4’’ to 3½”] from edge mid front. Only sew the top edge on the pocket. Sew in buttons.

Crochet edges:
Crochet around all edges of jacket with Snow on crochet hook size 8 mm [US L/11]. Start mid back of neck.
Crochet 1 sc, * 1 ch, skip approx 1 cm [3/8’’], 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* around collar, down along front piece, around bottom edge and up along front piece and back neck again.
Finish round with 1 sl st in the sc from beginning of round.
Crochet in same way along sleeve edges and around the open edge on the pockets.

Slanted sts:
Sew slanted sts with 2 strands Snow under bust line(i.e. approx 32-34-36-38-40-42 cm [12½”-13 3/8”-14 ¼”-15”-15 ¾”-16½”] down from shoulder) – sts should reach approx 2 x 2 cm [3/4’’ x 3/4”].

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (84)

country flag Mariangela wrote:

Inoltre ho letto gli altri commenti e in una risposta avete scritto che il modello è stato aggiornato ma io non vedo nessun aggiornamneto sul sito. inoltre questo aggiornamento riguarda proprio le maniche. dice che quando il lavoro misura 48 cm non bisogna diminuire di 3 mb ma incrociare ( questo è quello che ha tradotto il cell) potete mettere l'aggiornamento sul sito? ho quasi finito la giacca! mi mancano solo le maniche

01.03.2024 - 15:15

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Mariangela, le istruzioni sul sito sono corrette, non ci sono aggiornamenti. Anche in caso di correzioni, il modello sul sito viene aggiornato con le correzioni. Per le maniche è corretto, le maglie vanno chiuse. Buon lavoro!

02.03.2024 - 11:29

country flag Mariangela wrote:

Buongiorno, vorrei chiedere maggiori chiarimenti sulle maniche Non capisco bene come fare larrotondamento delle maniche Ho provato a seguire le istruzioni per la taglia s ma larrotondamenyo della manica mi viene 6 cm più piccola Potete dare maggiori dettagli su come lavorare e soprattutto quanti punti devono rimanere una volta che il lavoro è di 55 cm? Grazie

01.03.2024 - 14:36

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Mariangela, le istruzioni sul sito sono corrette. Buon lavoro!

02.03.2024 - 11:29

country flag Pronov wrote:

As the icy embrace of winter sets in, it presents distinctive challenges in upkeeping the impeccable state of our cherished winter wardrobes. Here at Nearest Laundry In this guide, we will delve into the practice of dry cleaning and elucidate why it stands as the paramount solution for maintaining the sophistication of your winter wardrobe

11.11.2023 - 10:14

country flag Carla wrote:

Wat is een alternatief voor de drops die er niet meer is?

14.10.2023 - 20:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Carla,

Bij elk patroon vind je, onder de materialenlijst, een linke naar de garenvervanger. Deze kan voor je berekenen hoeveel garen je nodig hebt van een alternatief garen.

15.10.2023 - 17:20

country flag Julie wrote:

Det var da det mest elendige svar, jeg nogensinde har fået på et spørgsmål! I opskriften står der \"30-45 masker\" uden nogen angivelse af hvor mange masker til hvilken størrelse, og jeg spørger derfor hvor mange masker, der skal hækles rundt halsåbningen i de enkelte størrelser. Jeg prøver lige igen og håber at få fat i en medarbejder som magter opgaven. Hvor mange masker skal der hækles rundt i halsen til kraven i de enkelte størrelser?

12.04.2023 - 16:13

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Julie, jeg lover at vi alle svarer i bedste mening! Men når der i opskriften står 30 til 45 fm, så er det fordi det ikke kan angives mere tydeligt. Hvis du hækler de 2 mindste størrelse så vil du få omkring 30 masker til at passe. Hvis du hækler en af de 2 midterste vil du få omkring 37 masker og de 2 største størrelser omkring 45 masker og med det sagt så gør det ikke noget hvis du får flere eller færre masker, jeg lover at du selv kan vurdere om det bliver fint :)

13.04.2023 - 11:20

country flag Julie wrote:

I opskriften står der "hækl 30-45 fm rundt i halsen" til kraven, men hvordan ved jeg hvor mange masker der er passende i de enkelte størrelser? Og hvordan sidder kraven fast på de fem masker, der er lukket af øverst i knapstolpen?

27.03.2023 - 13:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Julie, du hækler over forkanten og rundt i halsen, du ser hvilket antal som passer din størrelse :)

12.04.2023 - 14:52

country flag Nadia wrote:

Buongiorno non è chiaro come fare arrotondamento della manica. Per taglia M ogni due righe devo diminuire 2maglie per parte e la seconda riga 1 maglia per parte? Quante volte? E poi ancora 2 maglie per parte ad ogni riga fino ad arrivare a 56 cm? Quante maglie devono rimanere alla fine? Grazie

14.03.2023 - 21:11

country flag Greg wrote:

Salve, sto lavorando al dietro (taglia M) e mi trovo, allo scalfo, con i 42 punti, come da modello, ma con 43 cm anziche' i 47 cm indicati nel diagramma. Alla base invece il mio lavoro misura 53 cm proprio come nel diagramma. E' normale o devo calare meno punti in modo da arrivare allo scalfo con un lavoro che misura 47 cm? Grazie

28.12.2021 - 23:54

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Greg, il suo campione corrispondeva a quello indicato? Può anche provare a portare alle dimensioni corrette il lavoro dopo il bloccaggio finale. Buon lavoro!

29.12.2021 - 22:20

country flag STEFANIA wrote:

PER QUANTO RIGUARDA IL DIETRO DEL MODELLO AVREI BISOGNO DI SAPERE SE E' ESATTO CHE LO SCALFO INIZI LO SCALFO DELLE MANICHE A 61 CM DALL' ALTO; NELLE DOMANDE C'E' SCRITTO CHE I MODELLI PARTONO TUTTI DALL' ALTO . RESTO IN ATTESA DI UN RISCONTO SALUTI

16.10.2020 - 15:44

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Stefania. Il modello è lavorato dal basso verso l'alto, quindi gli scalfi sono a 61 cm dal bordo inferiore. Buon lavoro!

16.10.2020 - 17:33

country flag Katia Marelli wrote:

Is It possible to have this pattern in italian, please? Best regards. Katia

23.08.2020 - 12:49

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Katia. Tradurremo il modello nelle prossime settimane. Buon lavoro!

24.08.2020 - 08:58