DROPS Muskat Soft
DROPS Muskat Soft
100% Cotton
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Baby 6-24
Sizes: 0/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 - 5/6 years)
Finished measurements: 54-62-62 (72-76-80) cm

Materials: Garnstudio MUSKAT
(100% mercerized Egyptian cotton)
50 g./100 m
150-150-150 (200-200-200) g. Col. 36, jeans blue
50-50-50 (100-100-100) g. Col. 15, royal blue
50-50-50 (50-50-50) g. Col. 03, dark mint
50-50-50 (50-50-50) g. Col. 11, salmon
50-50-50 (50-50-50) g. Col. 08, natural white
50-50-50 (50-50-50) g. Col. 17, black

and: Garnstudio TYNN CHENILLE
(90% cotton, 10% polyester) 50 g.
50-50-50 (50-50-50) g. Col. 901, natural white

DROPS 3 mm and 3.5 mm circular and double pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

6-6-6 (6-6-6) DROPS wood buttons (button no. 503).

Muskat Blanket (see instructions under Model no. 20)

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat Soft
DROPS Muskat Soft
100% Cotton
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Gauge: 22 sts and 30 rows on larger needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm .

Garter Stitch, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.
Garter Stitch, when knitting in the round: *Rnd 1, knit. Rnd 2, purl *. Repeat from * - *.

Rib: *knit 1, purl 1*. Repeat from *-*.

Pattern: See charts. The pattern is seen from the right side and is worked entirely in stockinette st.

Front: Cast on 62-70-70 (82-86-90) sts (including 1 st at each edge for seam) on smaller needles with jeans blue and knit 4 rows garter st. Change to larger needles and knit Pattern M.2 until the work measures 5-6-8 (8-8-8) cm knit as follows: 5-9-9 (15-17-19) sts jeans blue, Pattern M.3a and M.3b, 5-9-9 (15-17-19) sts jeans blue (the royal blue border is put in afterwards in cross stitch). Use small balls or bobbins of dark mint on each side of the cow so that you do not float the yarn behind the cow.
When Pattern M.3a and M.3b is finished continue to knit stockinette st and jeans blue. When the work measures 28-30-33 (35-39-41) cm bind off the center 6-10-10 (12-18-22) sts for the neck. Bind off at each neck edge every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and dec 1 st 1-1-2 (2-1-1) times. When the work measures 31.5 - 33.5 - 37.5 (39.5 - 43.5 - 46.5) cm , change to royal blue and smaller circular needles and knit 3 cm rib for the buttonband - but after 1 cm make 2 buttonholes evenly distributed (1 buttonhole = bind off 2 sts and inc 2 new sts on the next row over the bound off sts). Finish with 2 rows garter st. The work measures 34.5 - 36.5 - 40.5 (42.5 - 46.5 - 49.5) cm and the rib measures 3 cm . Repeat on the other shoulder. Now embroider a row of cross sts around Pattern M.3a and M.3b with royal blue.

Back: = Cast on and knit as on the front, but after Pattern M.2 continue knitting with stockinette st and royal blue (do not knit Pattern M.3a and M.3b). When the work measures 31.5 - 33.5 - 37.5 (39.5 - 43.5 - 46.5) cm , bind off the center 14-18-20 (22-26-30) sts for the neck. On the next row change to royal blue and smaller needles and knit 3 cm rib for the button band and at the same time bind off 2 sts at the neck edge on the following row. Finish with 2 rows garter st, bind off all sts. The work measures approx. 34.5 - 36.5 - 40.5 (42.5 - 46.5 - 49.5) cm .

Sleeves: Cast on 34-34-36 (38-38-42) sts on smaller double pointed needles with jeans blue; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 4 rows garter st. Change to larger needles and knit Pattern M.1 to finished dimensions. At the same time, after the garter st edge, inc 1 st each side of marker 5-7-9 (10-16-16) times:
Sizes 0/3 + 6/9 mos.: every 5th row
Size 12/18 mos.: alternately every 4th and 5th row
Sizes 2 + 5/6 years: every 4th row
Size 3/4 years: alternately every 3rd and 4th row
= 44-48-54 (58-70-74) sts. When the work measures 11-14-16 (17-22-26) cm bind off 3 sts each side of marker. Bind off at each side every other row: 4-5-5 (6-7-8) sts 3 times. Bind off all sts. The work measures approx. 13-16-18 (19-24-28) cm .

Assembly: Pick up approx. 50-60 sts around the neck in the front and over the sides of the buttonbands on each shoulder on smaller needle with jeans blue and knit 2 rows garter st, change to white and knit 4 rows garter st, change to royal blue and knit 2 rows garter st and at the same time, after the 1st "ridge" make 1 buttonhole in line with the buttonholes in the buttonbands. Pick up approx. 40-50 sts around the neck in the back and over the sides of the buttonbands on each shoulder on smaller needle with jeans blue and knit 2 rows garter st, change to white and knit 4 rows garter st, change to royal blue and knit 2 rows garter st, bind off all sts. Sew shoulder seams. Sew in the sleeves. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

symbols = jeans blue
symbols = royal blue
symbols = dark mint
symbols = salmon
symbols = natural white, Muskat
symbols = black
symbols = natural white, tynn Chenille
symbols = royal blue, embroided with cross sts
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Anita wrote:

Hej! När jag har jort alla ökningar och avmaskningarna på armen (2 år) Hur många maskor blir det kvar på armen att avmaska på slutet.

25.11.2022 - 12:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anita, du har 58 masker, lukker 6 masker af og så 6 masker af i hver side 3 gange. 58-6-18-18 = 16 masker tilbage :)

30.11.2022 - 13:57

country flag Anneke Van Haaften wrote:

Ik ben een beginner met breien. Heeft u een makkelijk patroon van een trui voor een kind van 1 jaar.

12.02.2021 - 14:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Anneke,

In de categorie 'Baby' vind je alle babypatronen en daar zitten ook makkelijke patronen bij, bijvoorbeeld patroon 36-13 of 31-18.

16.02.2021 - 15:35

country flag Genre wrote:

Pensez vous qu il soit possible d adapter la taille de ce pull à une taille adulte? Si oui comme t puis je faire? Merci pour votre reponse

19.01.2019 - 13:54

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Genre, c'est probablement possible, mais nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande. Pour toute assistance complémentaire, merci de bien vouloir contacter - même par mail ou téléphone - votre magasin DROPS. Bon tricot!

21.01.2019 - 10:06

country flag Tove Brændstrup wrote:

Jeg kan ikke finde diagram til flg: Baby 6-24,/ Baby/ 2 - 4, og DROPS BABY 2-9. Er de udgået

03.12.2017 - 01:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Tove. Diagrammene finner du nederst på siden. Diagrammene til Baby 2-9 manglet, men de er nå lagt til. mvh Drops design

05.12.2017 - 11:41

country flag Marijke Van Dijk wrote:

Hoi Drops Design, Inmiddels heb ik de koe in wit ingebreid en ben aan het mazen geslagen. Horizontaal gaat dat prima, maar verticaal geeft geen mooi resultaat...en er zitten nogal wat verticale lijnen in het patroon! Ik heb de tutorial voor mazen wel 10x bekeken en ik doe niks fout. Is dit materiaal (heel gladde katoen) wel geschikt om te mazen?

10.02.2016 - 17:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Marijke. Wij hebben nog niet eerder klachten of problemen hiermee gehad. Als je het zelf niet mooi vindt, dan kies een ander garen om mee te mazen ;-)

11.02.2016 - 14:09

country flag Marijke wrote:

Ik vraag me af of de beschrijving overeenkomt met de wijze waarop het voorbeeld gemaakt is. Ik ben een goede breister, maar de koe helemaal in kleur inbreien is bijna onmogelijk - op een gegeven moment zit je met zeven bolletjes wol. Na elke naald moet je de boel uit de knoop halen. Het resultaat is niet mooi: het trekt aan alle kanten. Ik denk dat je de koe beter geheel in wit kunt inbreien, en dan later de zwarte lijnen en vlekken, en de uier en neus er op mazen.

08.02.2016 - 17:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Marijke. De trui zou gebreid moeten zoals beschreven, ik weet het niet zeker omdat het een oud patroon is. Maar vind je het prettiger om de st later op te mazen, dan mag dat natuurlijk :-)

09.02.2016 - 13:54

country flag Marleen Keuten wrote:

Ik zou graag willen weten of ik dit patroon ook groter kan krijgen. Mijn moeder wil de koe voor mij op een baby dekentje haken of breien en zij weet niet hoe zij de afbeelding moet vergroten. Ik hoop dat u mij hierop antwoord kan geven. Met vriendelijke groet, Marleen

10.01.2015 - 11:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Marleen. Ik kan je helaas niet helpen om het motief groter te maken, maar je kan het motief uitprinten en zelf groter tekenen - eventueel het aantal steken verdubbelen. De uiteindelijke grootte van de koe hangt er ook vanaf hoe dik het garen is,

13.01.2015 - 14:23

country flag DROPS Design wrote:

På hver pinne fra mitten feller du: 1 gang 3 masker, 1 gang 2 masker og 1-1-2 (2-1-1) gang 1 maske.

24.10.2011 - 12:21

country flag Elisabeth wrote:

Forstår ikke helt hvordan jeg skal felle til hals på forstk.. Hva menes med: Videre felles det til hals på hver 2.p: 3 m x 1, 2 m x 1 og 1 m x 1-1-2 (2-1-1). ?

21.10.2011 - 20:55

country flag Jonna Østergaard wrote:

Jeg mangler en vejledning i at strikke med flere farver. Det er en god video I har lagt på, hvordan man strikker med 2 farver. Men er ved at strikke koen på denne drengetrøje, og det er sku en udfordring.Både at holde styr på alle nøglerne, men specielt den sorte tråd på koens ben, skal den med til kanten for ikke at stramme osv. Har I en video med vejledning til bla denne trøje. Kan se I har mange spændende mønstre på trøjerne, men det er svært at strikke uden det kommer til at stramme.

15.05.2011 - 22:49