DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Baby 20-15
DROPS design: Pattern no DE-006-by
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Size:
1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 - 5/6) years
Size in cm:
50/56 - 62/68 - 74/80 (86/92 - 96/104 - 110/116)

Materials: DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
Colour no 04, light blue mix:
150-150-200 (200-250-300) g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3 mm –
or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS WOODEN BUTTONS NO 511: 3-4-4 (5-5-5) pcs

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st in each side of marker by making 1 YO. Work YO twisted on next row (i.e. knit in back loop of st instead of front loop) to avoid holes.
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JACKET:
Work the piece sideways. Work 2 pieces and finish by sewing pieces tog in the back. Work the pieces from the sleeve towards the mid of jacket.

RIGHT HALF:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 36-38-40 (40-42-44) sts on circular needle size 3 mm with Delight. K back and forth on all rows until completed (= garter st).
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 6-6-5 (5-6-6) cm, inc 1 st in each side, repeat the inc on every 8th row a total of 6-7-9 (11-13-14) times = 48-52-58 (62-68-72) sts. Work until piece measures 17-19-20 (25-29-33) cm – adjust so that the last row is worked from WS.

BODY:
K 1 row (= RS), at end of row cast on 41-43-50 (53-58-60) sts (= towards the back) = 89-95-108 (115-126-132) sts.
NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
K 1 row, turn, insert a marker in the 2nd st on needle from RS (= in right side). Continue – AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st on each side of the st with marker every other row a total of 38-40-46 (48-50-52) times – SEE INCREASE TIP. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 8.5 - 9 - 10.5 (11 - 12 - 13) cm work only over the last 60-65-74 (79-86-91) sts in the left side seen from RS (= back piece), slip the remaining sts on a stitch holder.

BACK PIECE:
Work until piece measures 13-14-16 (17-18-19) cm (from where back piece sts was cast on), cast off.

FRONT PIECE:
Put sts from stitch holder back on needle but leave 9-10-10 (10-12-12) sts towards the back on the stitch holder for neckline. Continue inc on every other row – AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st towards the neck (= towards sts on stitch holder) on every 4th row a total of 6-7-7 (7-7-7) times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 14-15-17 (18-19-20 cm (from where inc on front piece started and towards mid front) cast off for 3-4-4 (5-5-5) button holes as follows (from neck, i.e. from WS): K 2, cast off 2 sts, * K 12-9-11 (9-10-10) sts, cast off 2 sts *, repeat from *-* a total of 2-3-3 (4-4-4) times, K rest of row. On next row cast on 2 new sts over the cast off sts.
After all inc and dec there are 90-93-109 (115-121-126) sts on the needle. When finished with inc on right side, cast off 51-52-62 (66-70-74) sts from the neckline and down the front band of jacket (cast off from WS) = 39-41-47 (49-51-52) sts left on needle. K back and forth over these sts for approx. 1-1-2 (2-3-3) cm (fold piece at the shoulder and check that the front piece is the same length as back piece). Cast off.

LEFT HALF:
Work as right half but without button holes – this piece is assembled with wrong side out.

ASSEMBLY:
Put the 2 pieces towards each other and sew tog mid back – sew edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam. Fold the jacket and sew underarm and side seams in front loop of outermost sts. Sew on buttons.

NECKLINE:
Knit up 55 to 80 sts (including sts on stitch holder) around the neck on circular needle size 3 mm with Delight.
K 3 rows back and forth, cast off.


Diagram

symbols = knitting direction
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS Baby 20-15

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Comments / Questions (190)

country flag Franca wrote:

Questo modello si può fare per una misura da adulto?

08.01.2024 - 22:35

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Franca, questo modello è stato pensato per taglie da bambino, sul nostro sito può trovare tantissime ispirazioni gratuite per modelli da adulto. Buon lavoro!

09.01.2024 - 16:23

country flag Christa Iversen wrote:

Hej Jeg bil gerne vide om denne opskrift findes til voksne. Og hvis den gør så hvor . På f orhånd tak Venlig hilsen christa

27.11.2023 - 15:23

country flag Raymonde wrote:

Bonjour, une question concernant boutonnières combien de rangs y a t-il après les boutonnières? Moi j ai plus de 20 rangs après

08.11.2023 - 22:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Raymonde, vous ne devez pas avoir autant de rangs après les boutonnières, les boutonnières sont faites à 14-15-17 (18-19-20) cm - mesurés le long du bas du devant et le devant mesure 16-17-19 (20-21-22) cm (cf schéma). Bon tricot!

09.11.2023 - 08:27

country flag Brigitte Svec wrote:

Wenn ich nach dem Ärmel die Maschen zunehme, auf welcher Seite und. immer 2? Liebe Grüße Brigitte

13.05.2023 - 22:53

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Brigitte, nach dem Ärmel werden die neuen Maschen am Ende einer Hinreihe für das Rückenteil angeschlagen; stricken Sie dann die Rückreihe. Setzen Sie jetzt eine Markierung in die 2. Maschen der nächsten Hinreihe und jetzt werden Sie beidseitig von dieser Maschen für das Vorderteil zunehmen (die Masche mit der gestrichen Linien). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

15.05.2023 - 08:40

country flag Bits wrote:

Hallo und schönen Abend, Nehme ich beim Rumpfteil immer vor und nach der vorletzten Masche zu, oder immer dort wo ich als erstes den Markierer eingesetzt habe? Vielen Dank und liebe Grüße aus Wien. Brigitte

12.05.2023 - 22:52

country flag Ingrid Grange wrote:

Hej! När ökningarna på varje sida maskmarkören gjorts på FRAM BAKSTYCKE och man går över till att enbart sticka maskorna på vänster sida, hur många maskor totalt ska det då vara på stickan i storlek 12/18 mån? Hälsningar, Ingrid

03.05.2023 - 06:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ingrid, du har 58 m, slår 50 masker op til ryggen, økar 2 m på vartannant varv (totalt 46 gg på framstycket) men når arb måler 10,5 cm (enligt stickfastheten har du 48v på 10 cm) har du ökat ca 25 ggr x 2 m så ca 52 m på framstycket :)

09.05.2023 - 10:14

country flag Gerda Verheecke wrote:

Is dit patroon ook beschikbaar voor volwassenen?

05.03.2023 - 16:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Gerda,

Nee, helaas is dit patroon er alleen voor babymaten.

Misschien kun je wel iets vinden als je zoekt op damesvesten in DROPS Delight.

08.03.2023 - 12:56

country flag Fabienne Estadieu wrote:

Bonjour Tous les tutos que vous publiez en rapport aux jetés sont sur du jersey donc rang suivant envers mais dans ce modèle au point mousse comment tricoter le jeté torse ? Nous tenons notre fil de la main droite ce qui augmente la difficulté pour les tutos ! J’aimerais vraiment tricoter ce modèle mais les jetés me résistent !

30.01.2023 - 12:41

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Estadieu, tricotez le jeté dans le brin arrière (donc pas le brin face à vous mais celui qui se trouve plutôt de l'autre côté de l'aiguille) et tricotez simplement à l'endroit, ce qui va donner l'effet "torse" est de le tricoter dans le brin arrière - quand vous regardez les vidéos, suivez le fil par rapport à l'aiguille, ce sera la même chose, quelle que soit la main avec laquelle vous tenez votre fil. Bon tricot!

30.01.2023 - 15:58

country flag Angela Vigelahn wrote:

Ich möchte die Jacke in Größe 3-4-Jahre stricken, aber MIT KAPUZE. Wie stricke ich die, wenn ich da auch gerne einen " Zacken " drin haben möchte? Danke Angela

15.01.2023 - 21:44

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Vigelahn, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder Anfrage anpassen - vielleicht können Sie zuerst die Jacke stricken dann die Maschen auffassen um die Kapuze zu stricken. Gerne kann Ihnen Ihr DROPS Händler damit - auch per Telefon oder per E-Mail - helfen, eine Kapuze dazu zu stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

16.01.2023 - 10:26

country flag Nines wrote:

Entiendo que las mangas se tejen con agujas circulares, pero el cuerpo también con las mismas agujas? Gracias.

14.01.2023 - 18:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Nines, sí, como puedes ver al inicio de las explicaciones, en la mitad derecha, te indican que se trabaja con una aguja circular. Toda la labor se trabaja con la misma aguja circular, la indicada en los materiales.

15.01.2023 - 10:51