Note: This pattern is written in British English.
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Crochet tension: 14 tr x 7 rows with 1 thread of each quality = 10 x 10 cm. 1 repeat of mussel pattern = width approx 11 cm.
Crochet info: At the beg of each round replace the first tr with 3 ch. Replace first dtr with 4 ch. Finish each round with 1 sl st in 3rd/4th ch from beg of round.
Pattern: See diagrams M.1 and M.2. The diagram is seen from the RS.
Measuring tip: Because of the weight of the wool all measurements should be made whilst the garment is hanging.
Back and front piece: The jacket is crochet from the top down and back and forth from mid front. Loosely crochet 92-97-97-105-113 ch (incl 3 ch to turn with) on crochet hook size 4.5 mm with 1 thread Drops Alpaca and 1 thread Drops Cotton Viscose (double thread). Crochet next row as follows: 1 tr in 4th ch, *skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 3 ch*, repeat from *-* (in size M, L, XL and XXL finish with 1 tr in the last ch) = 68-72-72-78-84 tr – see Crochet info. On next row inc 14-13-10-19-19 tr ( 2 tr in 1 tr) evenly on row (do not inc on 5 tr each side = front band) = 82-85-82-97-103 tr. Now crochet 10 rows of M.1 (5 tr each side = front band and not part of diagram, crochet 1 tr in each tr). After M.1 there are 190-210-226-242-258 tr on row. Continue with 1 tr in each tr until piece measures 20-21-23-23-24 cm.
Crochet next row as follows:
5 tr on front band, 26-28-31-35-39 tr (= front piece) , 7-8-8-8-9 ch (under arm), skip 38-45-45-45-45 tr from previous row (= armhole, sts to be used later for sleeve), 52-54-64-72-80 tr (= back piece), 7-8-8-8-9 ch (under arm), skip 38-45-45-45-45 tr from previous row (= armhole, sts to be used later for sleeve) 26-28-31-35-39 tr ( = front piece), 5 tr on front band. Crochet 1 tr in each tr/ch = 128-136-152-168-186 tr. On next row inc 9-19-21-23-23 tr evenly = 137-155-173-191-209 tr. Crochet 1 row with 1 dc in each tr (also on front band) and continue in M.2 (beg at arrow in diagram). Crochet 2 vertical repeats of M.2, but beg the second repeat by Arrow B in diagram. After M.2 piece measures approx 44-45-46-47-48 cm. Now crochet 3-3-4-4-4 rows of dtr as follows (also on front band sts):
Row 1: Remember crochet info! 1 dtr in each ch-loop with 1 ch between each dtr and finish with 1 dtr in the last st = 64-73-82-91-100 dtr + 10 dtr on front band.
Row 2: 1 dtr in each dtr from previous row, but with 2 ch between each dtr (instead of 1).
Row 3: 1 dtr in each dtr from previous row, but with 3 ch between each dtr – finish size S and M here before the last mussel pattern = 64-73 dtr + 10 dtr on front band.
Row 4: 1 dtr in each dtr from previous row with 3 ch between each dtr - finish size L, XL and XXL here before the last mussel pattern = 82-91-100 dtr + 10 dtr on front band.
After the last row with dtr crochet M.2 again (beg at start arrow in diagram), but finish the pattern after row 7.
Note! Crochet row 1 in M.2 as follows to make pattern fit (crochet 5 front band sts each side as before): 1 ch, 1 tr in the first dtr, 1 ch, *1 tr in the next dtr, 1 ch, 1 tr in ch-loop, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* = 126-144-162-180-198 ch-loops (i.e. 14-16-18-20-22 repeats of mussel pattern at bottom of jacket).
Sleeve: Crochet from armhole towards bottom edge. Beg mid under arm as follows: crochet 1 dc in the 4th -5th -5th -5th -5th ch of the 7-8-8-8-9 ch crochet under arm on front and back piece. Crochet 3 ch (= 1 tr) and continue with 1 tr in each ch. NB! Before continuing on armhole crochet 1 tr in the transition to avoid a hole. Continue with 1 tr in each tr on armhole and crochet 1 tr in the transition before crocheting 1 tr in the remaining ch under arm = 47-55-55-55-56 tr. Crochet in the round like this until sleeve piece measures 9-10-9-9-10 cm. Now crochet next round as follows:
Size S: Crochet 5 tr mid under arm, continue in M.2 (from start arrow in diagram) = 2 repeats of mussel pattern and finish with 6 tr. Crochet 1 vertical repeat of M.2. Now crochet 1 row of dtr as follows: crochet the first 5 tr like this: 4 ch (= 1 dtr), *1 ch, skip 1 tr, 1 dtr in the next tr*, repeat from *-*. Continue on mussel pattern like this: *1 ch, 1 dtr in next tr*, repeat from *-*. Crochet the last 6 tr like this: “1 ch, skip 1 tr, 1 dtr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* = 23 ch-loops.
Size M + L + XL: Crochet 3 ch and continue in M.2 (from start arrow in diagram) = 3 repeats of mussel pattern + 1 tr mid under arm. Crochet 1 vertical repeat of M.2. Now crochet 1 row of dtr as follows: 4 ch (= 1 dtr), 1 ch, *1 dtr in next tr, 1 ch*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round = 27 ch-loops.
Size XXL: Crochet 3 ch and continue in M.2 (from start arrow in diagram) and finish with 1 tr mid under arm = 3 repeats of mussel pattern + 2 tr mid under arm. Crochet 1 vertical repeat of M.2. Now crochet 1 row of dtr as follows: 4 ch (= 1 dtr), 1 ch, skip 1 tr, *1 dtr in next tr, 1 ch*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round = 28 ch-loops.
All sizes: Now crochet 7-6-6-6-5 rounds as follows: 4 ch (= 1 dtr), 1 ch, 1 dtr in the first dtr, *1 ch, 1 dtr in next dtr*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in the 4th ch from beg of round. After the last round crochet M.2 again (from start arrow in diagram), but crochet the first row as follows to make the pattern fit:
Size S: 3 ch (= 1 tr), *1 ch, 1 tr in next ch-loop, 1 ch, 1 tr in the same ch-loop, 1 ch, 1 tr in the next ch-loop*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in the 3rd ch from beg of round. There are now 36 ch-loops (= 4 repeats of mussel pattern at the bottom sleeve edge). Finish M.2 after row 7.
Size M + L + XL: 3 ch (= 1 tr), *1 ch, 1 tr in next ch-loop, 1 ch, 1 tr in the next ch-loop, 1 ch, 1 tr in the next ch-loop, 1 ch, 1 tr in the same ch-loop*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in the 3rd ch from beg of round. There are now 36 ch-loops (= 4 repeats of mussel pattern at the bottom sleeve edge). Finish M.2 after row 7.
Size XXL: 3 ch (= 1 tr), *1 ch, 1 tr in next ch-loop, 1 ch, 1 tr in the next ch-loop, 1 ch, 1 tr in the next ch-loop, 1 ch, 1 tr in the next ch-loop, 1 ch, 1 tr in the same ch-loop*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in the 3rd ch from beg of round. There are now 36 ch-loops (= 4 repeats of mussel pattern at the bottom sleeve edge). Finish M.2 after row 7.
Button covers: Crochet covers for 5-6-6-6-6 buttons on crochet hook size 3 mm with Drops Cotton Viscose as follows
1st round: 2 ch, 16 tr in the first ch and finish with 1 sl st in first tr
2nd round: 1 dc in each tr and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round
3rd round: 3 ch, 1 tr in every other dc and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 8 tr
Put button inside cover, sew round the opening and pull tight.
Assembly: Sew on buttons to left front piece as follows:
Size S: 1, 12, 23, 34 and 44 cm.
Size M: 1, 10, 19, 28, 37 and 45 cm.
Size L: 1, 10, 19, 28, 37 and 46 cm.
Size XL: 1, 10, 20, 29, 38 and 47 cm.
Size XXL: 1, 10, 20, 29, 39 and 48 cm.
Crochet border: Beg at the bottom of right front band. Crochet 2 dc in each tr up along front band, crochet 1 dc in each tr round neckline and crochet down left front band as described for right front band. At the same time crochet buttonhole loops on right front band as follows: 5 ch, skip approx 2 cm, 1 dc in next st (make sure to position the buttonhole loops in line with buttons on left front band).
DROPS number 99-1
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