DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Green Symphony

Crochet shawl in "Alpaca" and "Vivaldi" with 2 crochet flowers and silk ribbon.

DROPS 88-8
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-180
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Measurements: Width at top: approx. 170 cm
Length mid back: approx. 95 cm

Materials: 
DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
200 g colour no 7120, light greyish green
and use: 
DROPS Vivaldi from Garnstudio
100 g colour no 18, mint

DROPS Crochet hook size 5 mm.
Accessories: approx. 2.6 metres of silk ribbon in a matching colour (approx. 10 mm in width).
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Categories:
Women Accessories Big Shawls Shawls
Keywords:
lace

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Crochet tension: Remember hook size is only a guide.
4 double treble crochets + 4 chain stitches in width with hook size 5 mm and 1 strand of each quality = approx. 6 cm.
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Shawl: Is worked bottom up. Description of double treble crochet - see page 2 (Crochet school).
Row 1: Work 19 chain stitches with hook size 5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Work 1 double treble crochet in the 12th chain stitch from the hook, 1 double treble crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches, 4 chain stitches, skip 3 chain stitches, 1 double treble crochet in the last chain stitch, turn piece.
Row 2: 5 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in the first double treble crochet, * 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in the next double treble crochet *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, 4 chain stitches and 1 double crochet in the 5th chain stitch at end of row.
Continue in this way according to the diagram, at the same time as you increase as shown in diagram (there will be an extra double treble crochet group every 2nd row). Continue working until there are 27 treble crochet groups on the row (or to desired measurement) and cut strand.

Crochet edge: Work 1 row of chain-spaces as follows (start at top in the one side of the shawl and work along the 2 sides which end at the tip - do not work along the top, wide part of the shawl): 1 double crochet around first chain-space, * 10 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around next chain-space *, repeat from *-* down to tip, then work as follows: 1 double crochet around chain-space in corner, 10 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in first double treble crochet in treble crochet group, 10 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in last double treble crochet in treble crochet group, 10 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around next chain-space in corner, then work * 10 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around next chain-space *, repeat from *-* along the whole side and finish with 10 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in the last chain-space.

Silk ribbon: Thread the ribbon inside the row of chain spaces, down the one side and up the other. Fasten the ribbon in each side with a couple of small stitches.

Crochet flower: Work 2 flowers which are fastened at the top of each side of the shawl.
Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 4.5 mm and 2 strands Alpaca and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch.
Round 1: * 1 double crochet around ring, 3 chain stitches,* repeat from *-* a total of 3 times and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet at beginning of round = 3 chain-spaces.
Round 2: Work as follows in each chain-space: 1 slip stitch, 5 treble crochets and 1 slip stitch = 3 Petals. Turn piece - the next round is worked from the back of the flower.
Round 3: 1 chain stitch, work 1 double crochet around the first double crochet from the first round, 3 chain stitches, work 1 double crochet in bottom of the 4th treble crochet on the first petal from round 2, then 3 chain stitches, work 1 double crochet in bottom of first treble crochet in second petal from round 2, then 3 chain stitches, work 1 double crochet in bottom of the 5th treble crochet in the second petal from round 2, then 3 chain stitches, work 1 double crochet in bottom of the 2nd treble crochet in the third petal from round 2, then 3 chain stitches, work 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of round = 5 chain-spaces. Turn piece - the next round is worked from the front of the flower.
Round 4: Work as follows in each chain-space: 1 slip stitch, 6 treble crochets and 1 slip stitch = 5 Petals. Turn piece - the next round is worked from the back of the flower.
Round 5: 1 chain stitch, work 1 double crochet around the first double crochet from round 3, 3 chain stitches, work 1 double crochet in bottom of the 5th treble crochet in the first petal from round 4, then 3 chain stitches, work 1 double crochet in bottom of the 4th treble crochet in the second petal from round 4, then 3 chain stitches, work 1 double crochet in bottom of the 3rd treble crochet in the third petal from round 4, then 3 chain stitches, work 1 double crochet in bottom of the 2nd treble crochet in the fourth petal from round 4, then 3 chain stitches, work 1 double crochet in bottom of the first treble crochet in the fifth petal from round 4, then 3 chain stitches, work 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of round = 6 chain-spaces. Turn piece - the next round is worked from the front of the flower.
Round 6: Work as follows in each chain-space: 1 slip stitch, 6 treble crochets and 1 slip stitch = 6 Petals.
Cut and fasten strands. Work 1 more flower and sew the flowers to the top of the shawl in each side.

Diagram

symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 1 double crochet
symbols = 1 slip stitch
symbols = 1 double treble crochet
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (33)

country flag Lila Heller wrote:

1.Warum werden zwei verschiedene Farben angegeben. Das kann man auf dem Bild nicht erkennen? 2. Müssen die Faden doppelt genommen werden?

05.02.2022 - 18:11

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Heller, dieses Tuch wird mit 2 Garne/Wolle gestrickt, dh 1 Faden Alpaca + 1 Faden Vivaldi, also 2-fädig. Beachten Sie, daß die Maschenprobe stimmt - Anstatt Vivaldi können Sie gerne 2 Fäden Kid-Silk (dann häkeln Sie 3-fädig) oder 1 Faden Brushed Alpaca Silk benutzen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

07.02.2022 - 08:53

country flag Maschenka wrote:

Wo kommen das Seidenband und die Blumen hin? Auf dem Foto sieht man nichts. Danke!

17.06.2021 - 15:52

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Maschenka, der Seidenband wird durch die Luftmaschenbogen durch die letzte Reihe gesteckt und dann werden die Blumen je am beiden Ende/Ecke von der letzten Reihen genäht. Viel Spaß beim fertigstellen!

17.06.2021 - 16:54

country flag Kasia wrote:

Czy można zastąpić Drops alpaca włóczką Drops for You #8, i jak to przeliczyć. dziękuję

15.04.2019 - 20:09

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Kasiu, DROPS Alpaca jest z grupy A, a DROPS You #8 jest 2 razy grubsza. Najlepiej będzie włóczkę DROPS Alpaca zastąpić przez którąś z włóczek z tej samej grupy, idealna będzie DROPS ♥ You #7, tym bardziej że ma niemal taką samą długość w 50 g motku. Będziesz wagowo potrzebować tyle samo tej włóczki co Alpaki. Pozdrawiamy!

15.04.2019 - 23:47

country flag Kasia wrote:

Hej, ile motków DROPS ♥ You #8 należy użyć zakładając tę samą wielkość wyrobu. dziekuję

14.04.2019 - 20:40

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Kasiu! Próbka jest taka sama, ale ta włóczka jest trochę cieńsza (Grupa włóczek C) niż połączenie DROPS Vivaldi i DROPS Alpaca (D). Z tego wynika, że będzie potrzebne trochę mniej włóczki niż we wzorze. Zakładam 5 motków (z zapasem). Powodzenia!

15.04.2019 - 19:20

country flag Rohaya Mohamed wrote:

My question is for the body of the shawl, is the 3rd row a repeat of row 1 but with 11 chain sts as the turning chains? Are the row rpts row 1 and 2? Thank you.

22.03.2019 - 11:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Mohamed, on row 3 (and 5) you turn with 10 chains, then *crochet 4 double trebles (UK)/trebles (US) around next chain space, 4 ch*, repeat from *-* but finish with 10 chains (instead of 4) in the dc/sc from beg of previous row. Happy crocheting!

22.03.2019 - 13:31

country flag Maria wrote:

Hola,Sólo quería comentar que he hecho el CHAL con las medidas que pone el patrón, y he decidido seguir porque no queda como en la foto,si no bastante más corto,y no creo que yo sea más baja que la modelo,ya que yo mido 1,66 y seguro que es más alta.Gracias por este patrón tan bonito.

01.03.2019 - 00:18

country flag B-M Martensson wrote:

I mönstret Drops 88-8 hänvisas till en halsblomma i mönstret Drops 18-88 men jag hittar inget mönster med det numret. Däremot hittar jag en halsblomma i Drops mönster 88-18 Så siffrorna måste vara omkastat i det svenska mönstret tror jag? Tacksam för svar.

25.05.2017 - 22:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. Det är 88-18 vi menar här (i de äldre mönstren så skrevs katalognr sist istället för först som idag). Mvh DROPS Design

29.05.2017 - 13:31

country flag Raija wrote:

Nätti malli, ja valmista syntyy nopeasti ohuemmallakin langalla. Muuten, parittomien eli kaksoispylväskerrosten lopussa oleva 10 kjs + 5 ps on vähän kömpelö. Siistimpi reuna tulee 5 kjs + kolmoispylväs. Jotta toinen reuna olisi symmetrinen, parillisten kerrosten viimeinen ks pitää tehdä ed. kerroksen kuudenteen kjs:aan (se joka on kaaviossa 4. ja 5. kjs:n välissä).

19.03.2016 - 20:22

country flag Raija wrote:

Nätti malli, ja valmista syntyy nopeasti ohuemmallakin langalla. Muuten, parittomien eli kaksoispylväskerrosten lopussa oleva 10 kjs + 5 ps on vähän kömpelö. Siistimpi reuna tulee 5 kjs + kolmoispylväs. Jotta toinen reuna olisi symmetrinen, parillisten kerrosten viimeinen ks pitää tehdä ed. kerroksen kuudenteen kjs:aan (se joka on kaaviossa 4. ja 5. kjs:n välissä).

19.03.2016 - 19:49

country flag Agnes wrote:

Kunt u mij vertellen wat ik na rij 2 moet doen? Eerst weer keren en dan 10 lossen? maar hoe eindigt deze rij dan. ik kom er niet uit. Alvast bedankt.

04.03.2014 - 22:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Agnes. De tweede toer eindigt rechts op de teltekening. Je hebt 4 dstk met 3 l tussen en dan haak je 4 l en 1 v in de 7e l van toer 1. Keer en haak 10 l enzovoort.

05.03.2014 - 15:17