DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Glitter
DROPS Glitter
60% Cupro, 40% Metal
from 1.75 £ /10g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.90£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 88-4
Size: XS/S S/M M/L XL XXL

Materials: DROPS Alpaca
300-300-350-400-400 gr,
and:
DROPS Glitter, 2-2-2-2-3 spools

Drops circular needles size 3.5mm and 4.5mm
Accessory: 4-4-5-5-5 buttons

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Glitter
DROPS Glitter
60% Cupro, 40% Metal
from 1.75 £ /10g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.90£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting Tension:
3.5mm needle: 23 sts x 30 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
4.5mm needle: 20 sts x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm

Front band: knitted in garter stitch.

Buttonholes: Make buttonholes on right front band from the right side as follows:
K 1, K2 tog, yon. On next row knit yon. Make buttonholes as follows:
XS/S: 10, 20, 30 and 40 cm
S/M: 11, 21, 31 and 41 cm
M/L: 10, 18, 26, 34 and 42 cm
XL: 10, 19, 27, 35 and 43 cm
XXL: 10, 18, 27, 36 and 45 cm

Neckline: *knit until there’s 1 st left on needle, turn, put this st on thread*, repeat from *-* until finished measurements.

Pattern: See chart M.1 and M.2. The pattern is seen from the right side and the entire pattern is knitted in stocking stitch. English translations for the wording in the diagram are given at the bottom of this pattern, and they are given in the vertical order in which they appear in the diagram.

Body: The jumper is knitted back and forth on circular needles. Cast on 223-253-268-313-343 sts (incl 5 front band sts either side)on 3.5 needle and 1 thread Alpaca and 1 thread glitter. Purl one row and continue as follows: 5 front band sts in garter, M.1 over the next 210-240-255-300-330 sts, 3 sts in stocking stitch, 5 front band sts in garter. After 1 report of M.1 (4 rows), decrease the 4 purled sts to 3 = 195-221-234-273-299 sts. Continue as follows: 5 front band sts in garter, M.2 over the next 182-208-221-260-286 sts, 3 sts in stocking stitch, 5 front band sts in garter. Remember buttonholes!

Read all of the next section before knitting it:

Yoke: When piece measures approx 34-35-36-37-38 cm (adjust so that you’ve knitted one row after a cable) put the 5 front band sts either side on thread = 185-211-224-263-289 sts. Knit 1 row from the right side and 1 from wrong side (garter), change to needle 4.5mm and stocking sts and at the same time, decrease 17-23-24-39-41 sts evenly on row = 168-188-200-224-248 sts. Insert a marking thread 42-47-50-56-62 sts from each side = 84-94-100-112-124 sts between marking threads = back piece.

Armhole: At the same time, when piece measures 37-38-39-40-41 cm, decrease 6-6-6-8-10 sts each side for armhole (i.e. 3-3-3-4-5 sts either side of the marking threads) = 78-88-94-104-114 sts on back piece and 39-44-47-52-57 sts on each front piece. Finish each piece separately.

Back piece: = 78-88-94-104-114 sts. Decrease for armhole each side on every other row as follows: 2 sts 0-1-2-3-4 times and 1 st 3-4-4-7-9 times = 72-76-78-78-80 sts. When piece measures 54-56-58-60-62 cm, cast off middle 28-30-32-32-32 sts for neckline and finish each shoulder separately. Decrease 1 st on every other row twice = 20-21-21-21-22 sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 56-58-60-62-64 cm.

Right Front: = 39-44-47-52-57 cm. Decrease for armhole as on back piece. At the same time, when piece measures 41-4243-44-46 cm, put the 5-6-7-7-7 sts towards mid front on thread for neckline. Decrease to shape the neckline on every other row as follows: 2 st 2 times, 1 st 4 times; thereafter on every 4th row: 1 st 3 times. After all decreases for armhole and neck, there are 20-21-21-21-22 sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 56-58-60-62-64 cm.

Left Front: as right, but mirrored.
Sleeves: Back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 77-77-77-92-92 sts loosely on needle 3.5mm and 1 thread Alpaca and 1 thread Glitter. Purl one row and continue in M.1 with 1 edge st each side. After 1 report of M.1 (4 rows), decrease the 4 purled sts to 3 = 67-67-67-80-80 sts. Continue in M.2 with one edge st each side. When sleeve measures approx 20 cm (adjust so that you’ve knitted one row after a cable), knit one row from the right side and one from the wrong side (garter), change to needle 4.5mm and stocking sts whilst decreasing 13-9-7-18-16 sts evenly on row = 54-58-60-62-64 sts. At the same time, when sleeve measures 22 cm, increase 1 st each side every 4-3-2.5-2-1.5 cm a total of 7-8-9-11-13 times = 68-74-78-84-90 sts. When sleeve measures 48-47-47-46-45 cm, decrease for armhole each side on every other row as follows: 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2-4-4-7-8 times. Thereafter decrease 2 sts each side until sleeve measures 55-55-56-57-57 cm. On next row decrease 3 sts each side and cast off remaining sts when sleeve measures approx 56-56-57-58-58 cm.

To make up: Join shoulders.
Front band: Put the 5 front band sts from one piece on needle 3.5mm. Knit approx 7-7-7-7-8 cm (to fit front piece up to neck line), put sts on thread and repeat on other front piece- remember button holes on right front piece. Sew on front bands to front pieces.
Neck line: From the right side, pick up approx 116-128 sts (incl sts on thread at front)round neck line using 1 thread Alpaca and 1 thread Glitter and needle 3.5mm. Knit reverse stocking stitch, putting last st on thread on every row (see Neckline). At the same time, when neckline measures 2 cm, increase 1 st in every 4th st = approx 137-152 sts. When neckline measures 4 cm, put sts on thread back on needle and knit 1 row before casting off all sts. To ensure that the neckline doesn't become too tight, make a “yarn over needle” after every 8 sts whilst casting off – the yarn over needle is cast off like a st.
Set in sleeves and join sleeve seams. Sew on buttons.

Rosette: Use a remnant of Alpaca and Glitter (pictured: Alpaca colour no 3720, Glitter no 07) and crochet with 1 thread of each quality and crochet hook size 3.5.

Crochet 4 ch and form a ring with a sl st.
1st round: 6 dc in ring and finish with a sl st in first dc
2nd round: 1 dc in first dc, *3 ch, 1 dc in next dc*, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times and finish with a sl st in first dc from beg of round = 6 ch-loops
3rd round: 1 ch, *1 dc, 1 ch, 1 tr, 1 ch, 1 dc* in each ch-loop and finish with a sl st in first ch from beg of round
4th round: *1 dc round dc from 2nd round (i.e. crochet round dc from behind the leaf), 5 ch*, repeat from *-* a total of 6 times and finish with a sl st in first dc from beg of round
5th round: 1 ch, *1 dc, 1 ch, 5 tr, 1 ch, 1 dc* in each ch-loop and finish with a sl st in first ch from beg of round
6th round: *1 dc round dc from 2nd round (as in round 4), 7 ch*, repeat from *-* a total of 6 times and finish with a sl st in first ch from beg of round
7th round: *1 dc, 1 ch, 1 tr, 5 dtr, 1 tr, 1 ch, 1 dc* in each ch-loop and finish with a sl st in first ch from beg of round
8th round: *1 dc round dc from 2nd round (as in round 4), 8 ch*, repeat from *-* a total of 6 times and finish with a sl st in first dc from beg of round
9th round: 1 ch, *1 dc, 1 ch, 1 tr, 3 dtr, 1 ttr, 3 dtr, 1 tr, 1 ch, 1 dc* in each ch-loop and finish with a sl st in first ch from beg of round.
Cut the thread and attach rosette to cardigan.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 88-4

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (43)

country flag Mrs Katharine Gratton wrote:

How do I work out the sizes in a particular pattern. I am knitting pattern number 88-4

12.10.2022 - 19:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Mrs Gratton, You will find a size chart at the bottom of the pattern, giving you all the measurements for the different sizes. Happy crafting!

13.10.2022 - 06:58

country flag Elsa wrote:

Hallo, eine Frage zum Stricktip zur Halskante: Bis zur letzten Masche stricken, Arbeit drehen und die Masche auf einen Faden lagen. Was bedeutet das? Ist dann jede Reihe um eine Masche reduziert und der obere Rand abgeschrägt? Könnten Sie das bitte genau erklären, was hier gemeint ist? Besten Dank

18.05.2022 - 22:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Elsa, wenn Sie die Halskante stricken sollen Sie die äusserste M. auf einen Hilfsfaden legen , dh wie beim verkürzten Reihen wird 1 Masche nicht gestrickt = am Ende der Reihe stricken Sie die letzte Masche auf der Nadel nicht sondern diese Masche legen Sie auf einem Faden still; wenden und am Ende der nächsten Reihe die letzte Masche nicht stricken sondern auf einem (anderen) Faden stilllegen, so weiter stricken bis die Halskante 4 cm misst, dann werden alle Maschen wieder gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.05.2022 - 09:09

country flag Claudia wrote:

Buongiorno, ho iniziato la prima manica: avviate 77 m, un giro a rovescio, fatto primo giro M1. Al secondo giro del diagrmma, dopo la maglia di vivagno, mi trovo che dovrei fare 3 maglie di diritto ma il giro precedente terminava con le ultime 4 maglie del motivo: in questo modo il motivo si sfalsa. Potreste aiutarmi, per cortesia? Grazie in anticipo.

09.03.2022 - 21:13

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Claudia, le maniche sono lavorate in piano, con ferri di andata e ritorno. Buon lavoro!

10.03.2022 - 23:24

country flag Elsa wrote:

Das Muster neben der Blume sieht auf dem Foto aus, als ob es kraus rechts gestrickt wird. Wieviel Reihen und dann glatt rechts? Besten Dank für die Rückmeldung.

04.03.2022 - 21:28

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Elsa, wir haben nachgeprüft und können bestätigen, daß die Jacke glatt rechts gestrickt wurde; die Anleitung stimmt so, auch wenn es vielleicht anders vom Foto aussieht. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

08.03.2022 - 23:10

country flag Elsa wrote:

Wenn laut Maschenprobe für dieses Modell 23 Maschen (3,5 Nadel) 10 cm sind, dann wären bei einer einfachen Breite von 43 cm für Grösse S/M ca. 100 Maschen und für den ganzen Rumpf knapp 200 Maschen. In der angegebenen Maschenzahl zum Aufschlagen werden aber 253 Maschen genannt. Auch wenn ich die 10 Bordmaschen hinzufüge, komme ich auf eine große Differenz. Wo habe ich einen Rechenfehler? Besten Dank, Elsa

27.01.2022 - 22:23

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Elsa, das Muster zieht die Arbeit zusammen, deshalb braucht man mehr Maschen als wenn man glatt rechts (= Maschenprobe) strickt. Beachten Sie nur, daß Ihre Maschenprobe mit beiden Nadelngröße stimmt, und so weiterstricken, um die genauen Maßen wie in der Skizze zu bekommen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.01.2022 - 09:08

country flag Claudia wrote:

Buongiorno, sono arrivata al punto in cui i 5 e 5 punti del bordo sul davanti devono essere messi in attesa ma, per inesperienza, non riesco a capire : restano non lavorati?fino a quando? e come li recupero? Grazie in anticipo.

14.01.2022 - 21:46

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Claudia, le 5 maglie non si lavorano fino alla cucitura delle spalle, sotto il paragrafo CONFEZIONE. Buon lavoro!

14.01.2022 - 23:45

country flag BCH wrote:

BONJOUR PEUT ON TRICOTER SANS LE GLITTER DANS LES CONDITIONS ? A quoi sert le glitter ? Merci

13.03.2021 - 16:38

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bch, le fil DROPS Glitter apporte juste une petite note de brillant, vous pouvez tout à fait ne pas l'utiliser, il est tellement fin que ça n'aura aucune incidence ni sur votre échantillon ni sur les explications. Bon tricot!

15.03.2021 - 08:23

country flag Eva Kremer wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas pourquoi l'échantillon est en aiguilles 4 et 4,5 alors que le modèle se tricote ne 3,5 et 4,5...

26.11.2020 - 19:02

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Kremer, c'était juste une erreur désormais corrigée, merci pour votre retour. L'échantillon se tricote en 3,5. Bon tricot!

27.11.2020 - 07:23

country flag Eva wrote:

När byter jag från stickor 3,5 till 4,5?

04.10.2020 - 14:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Eva. Det gör du när du börjar sticka slätstickning (det står i andra delen av "Fram- och bakst"). Mvh DROPS Design

06.10.2020 - 07:48

country flag Tina wrote:

Buonasera, scusate, ma volevo chiedere come mai viene ancora indicato di usare il glitter verde... non viene più prodotto però, giusto?? Posso chiedere come mai solo 4 colori? Grazie mille, siete sempre i migliori in assoluto!!! Non c'è confronto, con NESSUNO!!!!! VI ADORO 😍😍😍

04.01.2019 - 18:18

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Tina. Il modello è stato pubblicato diversi anni fa, quando nell’assortimento era ancora presente il glitter verde. Al momento glitter è disponibile in oro, argento e rosso. Buon lavoro!

04.01.2019 - 18:37