DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 88-11
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-179
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Sizes: S/M - M/L - XL/XXL
Length mid front: approx. 37 - 39 - 42 cm

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
200-250-250 g colour no 7120, light greyish green
and use: DROPS Snow from Garnstudio
50 - 50 - 50 g colour no 31, pastel blue

DROPS Crochet hook sizes 4 and 7 mm.
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Categories:
Women Ponchos
Keywords:
top down v-neck

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Crochet tension: Remember hook size is only a guide.
19 treble crochets x approx. 10 rows with hook size 4 mm and Alpaca = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Due to differences in crochet techniques, the crochet tension varies from person to person. Increase or decrease the hook size as necessary to achieve the right tension.

Crochet tip: At the beginning of each round, replace the first treble crochet with 3 chain stitches. At the end of each round finish with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.

Crochet info: Work in each treble crochet (not between treble crochets).
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Poncho: The piece is worked in the round from the neck down. To avoid the piece becoming twisted, work alternately from the right and wrong side, i.e. turn the piece at the end of each round.
Work 240-264-288 chain stitches with hook size 4 mm and Alpaca and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch.
Round 1: 1 chain stitch, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in next chain stitch *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of round = 120-132-144 double crochets.
Round 2: 3 chain stitches, * 2 chain stitches, skip 2 stitches, 1 treble crochet in the next stitch *, repeat from *-* and finish with 2 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round = 40-44-48 chain-spaces.
Round 3: 3 chain stitches, 2 treble crochets around first chain-space, then work 3 treble crochets around each chain-space to end of round, finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round = 120-132-144 treble crochets.
Round 4: Read Crochet info! Insert 4 marker threads in piece as follows: Insert 1 marker thread in the first treble crochet (= mid back), in the 31st-34th-37th treble crochet (= left shoulder), in the 61st-67th-73rd treble crochet (= mid front) and in the 91st-100th-109th treble crochet (= right shoulder) on the round (= 4 marker threads).

Work as follows: 6 chain stitches (= 1 treble crochet + 3 chain stitches) + 1 treble crochet in first treble crochet (= mid back), 1 treble crochet in each of the next 29-32-35 treble crochets, in next treble crochet (= with marker thread) work 2 treble crochets, then 1 treble crochet in each of the next 29-32-35 treble crochets, in next treble crochet (= with marker thread) work 1 treble crochet + 3 chain stitches + 1 treble crochet (= mid front), 1 treble crochet in each of the next 29-32-35 treble crochets, in next treble crochet (= with marker thread) work 2 treble crochets, then work 1 treble crochet in each of the last 29-32-35 treble crochets, finish with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.
Round 5: 3 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 30-33-36 treble crochets, between the next 2 treble crochets work 2 treble crochets (= left shoulder - marker thread should sit in the middle of these 2 treble crochets), 1 treble crochet in each of the next 31-34-37 treble crochets, in chain-space (= mid front) work 1 treble crochet + 3 chain stitches + 1 treble crochet, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 31-34-37 treble crochets, between the next 2 treble crochets work 2 treble crochets (= right shoulder), 1 treble crochet in each of the next 31-34-37 treble crochets, in chain-space (= mid back) work 1 treble crochet + 3 chain stitches + 1 treble crochet, finish with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.
Continue to work in this way at the same time as you increase mid front, mid back and on each shoulder, as on round 5 (i.e. there are 2 treble crochets more between each increase every round). When you have worked a total of 13 rounds (i.e. you have increased to shoulder on the last 10 rounds) finish the increases on each shoulder. Then work 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet with increases mid front and back as before.
When piece measures 37-39-42 cm from the row of holes in the neck and down mid front (the piece measures approx. 33-35-38 cm from the row of holes and down the shoulder) or to desired length, cut the strand.

Crochet edge: Work 1 round of chain-spaces with hook size 7 mm and Snow as follows (start in chain-space mid back): 1 double crochet around chain-space, * 4 chain stitches, skip 4 treble crochets (= approx. 2 cm), 1 double crochet in the next treble crochet *, repeat from *-* around the whole poncho, but mid front work 1 double crochet around chain-space. Finish with 4 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet at beginning of round.

Twisted cord: Cut 1 strand Snow of approx. 3 metres. Twist the strand until it begins to resist, fold it double and it will continue to twist. Tie a knot in each end. The cord is approx. 1.3 metres. Thread the cord up and down through each hole at top of neck - start mid front.

Flower tassels: Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 7 mm and Snow and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch.
Round 1: * 8 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around ring *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times and finish with 8 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in first double crochet at beginning of round = 5 chain-spaces.
Work 1 more flower. Thread a flower onto each end of the cord and tie an extra knot on the cord so that the flowers stay put.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (14)

country flag Julieta Garcia wrote:

Hola tengo una duda: dice que son 8 aumentos cada vuelta , pero solo hago 4 ya que en las instrucciones dice: "entre" los sig 2 p.a. trabajar 2 p.a. (= hombro derecho) , y usted menciona ( en alguna respuesta) que que se aumentos a los lado del MP cosa se serian dos aumentos, estoy en en un error?

12.03.2022 - 14:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Julieta, en la 5ª fila, aumentas 1 punto a cada lado del marcapuntos. Entonces, como hay 4 marcapuntos, trabajas 2 p.a a cada lado del marcapuntos (= 8 aumentos en la vuelta).

13.03.2022 - 22:28

country flag Nicole wrote:

In row 6, it says to continue to increase at the front, back, left and right. If I increase in all four areas the total increase per row would be 4. The pattern says that each row will have an increase of 2. Also, Do we increase in EACH increase from the previous row? If so, each row would increase 4 more that the row before. If there were a graph pattern it would help answer this question, but I don't see one anywhere. Thanks

27.06.2021 - 05:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nicole, since you increase with 2 dc in one (with marker in the middle of both) you will increase 2 stitches between each marker (= 1 stitch is increased after the marker, 1 stitch is increased before next marker = 2 sts and 4 markers = 8 sts are increased on every round. Hope this will help. Happy crocheting!

28.06.2021 - 07:40

country flag Marja wrote:

Dank je voor de reactie, maar volgens het patroon wordt er na de dertiende toer niet meer gemeerderd voor de schouders. Ik sluit me ook aan bij een eerdere reactie dat door het werk steeds te keren de stokjes steeds een stokje verspringen. Ik vind het een superleuke poncho, maar het patroon niet helemaal duidelijk en je moet bij elke toer goed tellen of er 2 stokjes gemeerderd zijn tussen de meerderingen. Voor een ongeduldige haakster zoals ik bijna een straf 😉

15.05.2019 - 13:25

country flag Marja wrote:

Bij de meerderingen voor de schouders wordt aangegeven in toer 5 “haak 30 stokjes en haak tussen de volgende 2 stokjes 2 stokjes”, moet je die 2 stokjes waar je tussen moet haken niet haken dan? Dan meerder je toch ook niets?

11.05.2019 - 23:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marja,

Klopt, vanaf de vijfde toer wordt er niet meer gemeerderd op de schouder, allen voor en achter.

15.05.2019 - 09:03

country flag Estrella wrote:

Buenos días.\r\nMe encantan vuestros patrones, ideas y lanas!!\r\nSolo deciros que este patrón está mal clasificado: aparece en la categoría de 2 agujas cuando está realizado a ganchillo.\r\nMuchas Gracias.\r\nUn saludo cordial

14.10.2018 - 11:45

country flag Kristine Poulsen wrote:

Spørgsmål til 88-11. Jeg kan ikke få begyndelse og slut af omgangene til at fungere. Det ser forkert ud. Kan I evt skrive om forskel på lige/ulige rækker eller andet, jeg kan bruge som rettesnor. Mvh Kristine

09.01.2018 - 16:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Kristine, jo du slutter hver omgang med en kædemaske i 3.luftmaske (den som erstatter 1.stangmaske når du starter omgangen) God fornøjelse!

30.01.2018 - 09:53

country flag Katarina Jerrstedt wrote:

Vill veta hur markörerna ska sitta på 4:de varvet. På ena axeln är det 3 stolpar emellan och för den andra axeln och framsidan 6 stolpar?

26.03.2017 - 20:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Katarina. Nej, du har 4 markörer i arbejdet. 1: i förste st paa omg, nummer 2: i 31.-34.-37. st, nummer 3: i 61.-67.-73. st og nummer 4: 91.-100.-109. st. Du har i alt 120-132-144 st paa omgangen, sa der kommer ikke 3 eller 6 stolper i mellem.

27.03.2017 - 13:20

country flag Diana wrote:

Hallo! Erstmal DANKE für die tollen Anleitungen. Oft verstehe ich sie auch ;O). Jetzt stehe ich aber auf dem Schlauch... ich soll die Arbeit "wenden" und dann weiter häkeln. Wenn ich (ab Rd. 5) nach dem Stb, 3 LM, Stb die Arbeit drehe; wie soll ich dann weiter häkeln? Rückwärts??? Oder wieder Stb = 3 LM, 3 LM, Stb? Vielen Dank und VlG! Diana

28.05.2015 - 07:50

DROPS Design answered:

Am besten orientieren Sie sich einfach an den Markierern, d.h. an den Stellen, an denen Sie zugenommen haben - dort nehmen Sie weiter zu, also an der vorderen Mitte, der hinteren Mitte und an beiden Schultern. D.h. Sie häkeln 1 Stb in jedes Stb (am Rd-Anfang 3 Ersatz-Lm) und dann an den Markierern die entsprechenden Zunahmen. Die Zunahme an der vorderen und hinteren Mitte erfolgt ja immer um die Lm-Bögen der vorherigen Zunahme. Gutes Gelingen!

28.05.2015 - 10:32

country flag Lotte Hummelshøj wrote:

Hejsa. Kan i ikke lige forklare hvordan man starter med rk 5 -6 osv.Jeg kan ikke få det til at passe med at starte med 30st. Kh Lotte

16.02.2015 - 20:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lotte. Saa maa der vaere gaaet noget galt da du placerede maerketraadene. Du startede med 6 lm (= 1 st + 3 lm) + 1 st i 1.st (= midt bagpå), 1 st i hver af de 29 st i den forrige omg, saa skulle din naeste omgang (5) vaere 3 lm + 30 st frem til maerketraaden.

18.02.2015 - 13:26

country flag Rose-Marie wrote:

Virkade denna till mitt barnbarn. Hon blev jättenöjda och var så fin i den. Hon kommer säkert lägga ut den på Facebook.

31.03.2014 - 17:28