DROPS Symphony
DROPS Symphony
65% Wool, 35% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 86-31
DROPS 86-31
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL

Materials: DROPS Symphony from Garnstudio
350-400-450-500-550 gr nr 04, plum

DROPS 6 mm straight needles and 5 mm circular needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Symphony
DROPS Symphony
65% Wool, 35% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Gauge: 15 sts x 20 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm.

Rib: *K 3, P 2*, repeat *-*.

Right side:
The shrug is knitted in one piece.
The piece starts at right wrist and ends at left wrist.
Loosely cast on 46-48-50-50-52 sts on straight needles and knit 4 rows garter st. Change to stockinette st, decreasing 8 sts evenly distributed on the first row = 38-40-42-42-44 sts.
When the piece measures 18 cm inc 1 st at each side every 3-3-3-2.5-2.5 cm a total of 11-11-12-13-14 times = 60-62-66-68-72 sts.
When the piece measures 53 cm put a marker at each side – measure the piece from here – and read the entire section before knitting:
Seen from RS the right side of piece is towards front and left side is toward back.
Now bind off at the front of piece and cast on new sts at the back of piece.
At front: bind off 2-2-3-3-3 sts, and then bind off every other row: 1 st 9-10-11-12-12 times, 2 sts 3-3-3-3-4 times, 3 sts 3 times and 4 sts 1 time.
At back: inc every other row: 3 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times, then every 4th row: 1 st 4 times.
After all shaping is complete = 39-40-42-43-45 sts.
When the piece measures 17-18-19-20-21 cm put 5 sts on a st holder from lower edge of back toward neck edge of back on every other row 6 times = 9-10-12-13-15 sts remain on needles.
The shrug is now at center back.
Place a new marker at center back in neck edge (right side of work seen frm RS).

Now knit the other half, reversing shaping:
knit 1 row stockinette st, and then put 5 sts from st holder back on needle on every other row 6 times = 39-40-42-43-45 sts.
When sts are put back on needles pick up 1 st between the last st on needle and the first st on st holder, K this picked up st tog with 1st st on st holder. This will prevent a hole.
When the piece measures 6 cm from the marker at back of the neck inc at front (= the side where you bound off before) every other row: 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 3 times, 2 sts 3-3-3-3-4 times and 1 st 9-10-11-12-12 times and 2-2-3-3-3 sts 1 time.

When the piece measures 12-13-14-15-16 cm from the marker at back neck, dec at back (= the side where you increased before) every 4th row: 1 st 4 times, then every other row: 1 st 2 times and then bind off 3 sts 1 time.

After all incs and decs are complete 60-62-66-68-72 sts remain.
Put a marker at each side – measure the work from here.
When the piece measures 5-5-2-5-2.5 cm dec 1 st at each side every 3-3-3-2.5-2.5 cm a total of 11-11-12-13-14 times = 38-40-42-42-44 sts. When the piece measures 51 cm inc 8 sts evenly distributed = 46-48-50-50-52 sts. Knit 4 rows garter st and then bind off.

Assembly: Sew sleeve seams up to markers, using edge sts as seam allowance. Pick up sts around edge of the garment – along right front, back of the neck, down left front and around back = approx. 175-230 sts (divisible by 5) on circular needles. Join and knit in the round as follows (seen from the right side): P 1 row and K 1 row, then knit rib - see instructions above. When the edge measures 6 cm inc all P 2 to P 3 = approx. 210-276 sts. When the edge measures 12 cm inc all K 3 to K 4 = approx. 245-322 sts. When the edge measures 16-17-18-19-20 cm inc all P 3 to P 4, on the next row bind off all sts in rib.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (51)

country flag Claudine Fauque wrote:

Bonjour, Est-il possible de faire ce modèle sans manches ? Merci Claudine

19.11.2022 - 17:26

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Fauque, fort probablement, mais il sera aussi sans doute plus simple de vous orienter vers un modèle sans manches. Bon tricot!

21.11.2022 - 08:49

country flag Liesbeth wrote:

Na 53 cm lengte moet ik minderen en meerderen. Er staat; begin. Kant 3 steken af en vervolgens elke 2e naald enz enz . Maar er staat ook: meerder elke 2e naald aan het eind 1x3 en 2x1 steek enz enz Hoe lees ik dit? Als ik minder en vervolgens elke 2e naald aan het eind meerder, blijf ik toch aan dezelfde kant minderen en vervolgens meerderen? Ik begrijp dat dat niet klopt, maar graag wat uitleg.

02.03.2022 - 20:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Liesbeth,

Aan de goede kant gezien, kant je aan de rechter kant steeds af en aan de linker kant meerder je steken door steken op te zetten. In de teruggaande naald, meerder of minder je niet. Het klopt dat je steeds aan dezelfde kant mindert en aan dezelfde kant meerdert. Aan het achterpand komen er dus steken bij en aan het voorpand gaan er steken af.

07.03.2022 - 12:14

country flag Mary wrote:

Do you have a chart with measurements for sizes S-M-L-XL? I’m knitting for my daughter-in-law and we’d like to make sure I’m knitting the right size for her (size 40-42). Thank you

08.02.2022 - 20:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mary, you will find all measurements on the chart at the bottom of the page, multiply by 2 to get the total width from one sleeve edge to the other (chart shows from one sleeve edge to the mid back). Read more about measurement charts here. Happy knitting!

09.02.2022 - 08:50

country flag Cristina wrote:

Inzwischen sehe ich, dass in anderen Sprachen bemerkt wurde, dass das Bolero an einem Stueck gestrickt wird. In deutscher Sprache wurde das nicht erwaehnt. Das fuehrt zu Unklarheiten und scheint so als muesse es in 2 Teilen angefertigt werden Ich habe das zweite Teil jetzt zur Haelfte fertig und muss es wieder aufrubbeln.

23.01.2022 - 19:43

country flag Cristina wrote:

Ich habe das gleiche Problem wie Cathi. Auf diese Frage wurde nicht geantwortet. Wie werden die beiden Teile zusammengestrickt. Im Grossen u. Ganzen sind die Angaben nicht sehr klar. Danke fuer eine Antwort.

22.01.2022 - 20:11

country flag Norma Gabriela wrote:

Estoy muy feliz de haber encontrado este patrón, porque amo los boleros y quiero hacerlo para mí. La verdad es que me marean un poco las explicaciones escritas al ser principiante, pero lo intentaré de todos modos

16.08.2021 - 23:11

country flag ANA HELENA MARCONDES wrote:

Boa tarde! Gostaria de receber as receitas traduzidas para o Português- Brasil, as que eu salvar.

16.02.2021 - 20:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bom dia, Nas receitas mais antigas tem um léxico de correspondência de termos de português de Portugal e de português do Brasil. Não há tradução porque a língua é a mesma. Pode sempre ver os vídeos disponíveis em cada receita. Bom tricô!

17.02.2021 - 12:58

country flag Heike Berger wrote:

Hallo, es gibt hier immer wunderschöne Anleitungen und Muster. Vielen Dank! Heute möchte ich gern dieses Modell in Langyarns Lace stricken. Zum Umrechnen benötige ich die Ärmelweite am Beginn. Danke und viele Grüße Heike

21.01.2021 - 16:02

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Berger, wir bitten um Verständnis, dass wir nicht Produkte unserer Konkurrenz empfehlen können und dass der Kauf des Materials uns hilft, weiterhin kostenlose Anleitungen zur Verfügung stellen zu können. Wenn sie Hilfe brauchen, diese Anleitung mit einer anderen Maschenprobe anzupassen, wenden Sie sich bitte an dem Laden wo Sie die Wolle gekauft haben, dort hilft man Ihnen gerne weiter. Danke im voraus für Ihr Verständnis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.01.2021 - 16:52

country flag Macha wrote:

Bonjour, Tout d'abord un grand merci, votre site est un enchantement ! J'ai bien suivi tous les conseils avec les mailles en attente côté encolure, mais lorsque j'attaque la 2ème partie, la forme ne correspond pas au croquis... ? La ligne milieu dos part vers la droite. Confirmez-vous que ces 6 x 5 mailles en attente se font bien du côté encolure et non pas "bas du dos" ? Sincères salutations !

04.11.2019 - 18:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Macha et merci. Pour la 1ère partie, on met en attente les mailles côté encolure, ainsi le côté bas du dos sera plus large (cf schéma), pour la 2ème partie, on commence par le bas et on tricote 5 m de plus tous les 2 rangs pour qu'il y ait à nouveau plus de rangs en bas pour le dos et pas côté encolure. Bon tricot!

05.11.2019 - 08:43

country flag Sara wrote:

Hej! Har ni något tips på ett annat garn man kan använda som INTE är luddigt? Jag vill hellre ha en slät kofta.

03.04.2019 - 15:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. Garnet (som nu utgått) i detta mönster tillhör garngrupp D. Vi har ett annat garn i garngrupp D men det är också ett luddigt garn. Du kan sticka detta mönster med dubbel tråd med ett garn i garngrupp B, där har vi flera fina alternativ. Du kan läsa mer om våra garngrupper här. Tänk bara på att beräkna riktig garnåtgång och att få riktig stickfasthet. Lycka till!

05.04.2019 - 08:05