DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.70£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 78-11

Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL
Finished measurements: 88-96-102-108-122 cm

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
450-500-550-600-650 gr nr 22, brown.

7 DROPS shell buttons, nr 525

DROPS 4 mm circular and double-pointed needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.70£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Gauge: 21 sts x 28 rows = 10 x 10 cm in stockinette st.

Pattern: See chart. The pattern is seen from the right side.

Garter st, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.

Buttonhole: Make buttonholes along right button band. Make buttonholes as follows (right side row): 2 sts garter st, K 2 tog, yo, P 3. On the next row (wrong side) P the yo from previous row.
Make buttonholes when the piece measures:
Size S: 2, 7, 11, 16, 21, 25 and 30 cm.
Size M: 2, 7, 12, 17, 22, 27 and 31 cm.
Size L: 2, 7, 12, 17, 22, 27 and 32 cm.
Size XL: 2, 7, 12, 18, 23, 28 and 33 cm.
Size XXL: 2, 8, 13, 19, 24, 29 and 34 cm.

Knitting tips (for neckband):
All decs are made from right side. Dec 1 st for the neck every other row inside 7 buttonband sts as follows:
After 7 buttonband sts: Sl 1 as if to knit, K 1, psso.
Before 7 buttonband sts: K 2 tog.

Body: Cast on 200-214-228-242-270 sts and establish pattern as follows on first row (right side row): K 2 (edge sts knit in garter st throughout), K 2, P 3 (5 sts in rib) – these 7 sts are the buttonband, Pattern 1 over 186-200-214-228-256 sts, P 3, K 2 (5 sts in rib), K 2 (edge sts knit in garter st throughout) – these 7 sts are the buttonband. Continue in pattern as established. Make buttonholes along right buttonband - see instructions above.
When the piece measures 20 cm knit stockinette st to finished measurements, keeping the 7 sts at each side (buttonbands) the same as before. When the piece measures 31-32-33-34-35 cm knit the next row as follows (right side row): 50-54-57-61-68 sts (= right front), bind off 6 sts for armhole, 88-94-102-108-122 sts (= back), bind off 6 sts for armhole, 50-54-57-61-68 sts (= left front). Knit each piece separately.

Left front: = 50-54-57-61-68 sts. Bind off at the same time for armhole and V-neck.
Armhole: Bind off for armhole at the side every other row: 3 sts 0-1-1-2-2 times, 2 sts 1-1-2-2-4 times and 1 st 3-2-3-3-5 times.
V-neck: At the same time dec 1 st for the neck every other row inside the 7 buttonband sts 19-20-19-20-20 times - see knitting tips.
After all armhole and neck shaping is complete 26-27-28-28-29 sts remain on shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58 cm.

Right front: = 50-54-57-61-68 sts. Knit the same as left front, reversing shaping and continuing to make buttonholes.

Back: = 88-94-102-108-122 sts. Bind off for armhole at each side as on front = 78-80-82-82-84 sts remain. When the piece measures 47-49-51-53-55 cm knit rib as follows over the center 40 sts: P 3, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from * - *, finish with K 2, P 3 (knit the remaining sts in stockinette st). When the piece measures 49-51-53-55-57 cm bind off the center 26 sts in rib. Keep the 7 sts at each neck edge in rib as follows (seen from right side): K 2 (edge sts knit in garter st), K 2 and P 3. Bind off all sts when the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58 cm.

Sleeve: Cast on 56-56-56-63-63 sts on double-pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 1 row with K 1, P 1 rib, then knit stockinette st. When the piece measures 9 cm knit Pattern 1. When the piece measures 18 cm knit stockinette st to finished measurements. After Pattern 1 inc 1 st each side of marker every 4-3-2.5-2.5-2 cm a total of 8-10-12-11-13 times = 72-76-80-85-89 sts.
When the piece measures 50-49-48-47-44 cm bind off 3 sts each side of marker. Then bind off for sleeve cap at each side every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3-3-3-3-2 times, 1 st 1-4-4-5-12 times, then bind off 2 sts at each side until the piece measures 57 cm, then bind off 3 sts at each side 1 time. The piece measures approx. 58 cm, bind off.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams and sew in sleeves and buttons.

Diagram

symbols = knit on RS, purl on WS
symbols = purl on RS, knit on WS
symbols = yo
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = Slip 1 as if to knit, K 1, psso
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (20)

country flag Robyn Wrack wrote:

Having trouble with the sleeves at the point where it says bind off 2 on each side until piece measures 57cm. Do you do this once, then continue or every row until piece measures 57cm?

23.06.2021 - 03:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Wrack, you cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of each row (both from RS and from WS) until sleeve measures 57 cm - make sure you have cast off the same number of times 2 sts on each side to get a symetrical sleeve cap. Happy knitting!

23.06.2021 - 08:00

country flag Els wrote:

Bij het breien van de mouwen kom ik toch echt een probleem tegen. Voor maat S zet ik 56 steken op, na het patroon breien moet ik weerzijde van de markeerdraad 18x1 st, meerderen = volgens mij 38 steken. Wanneer ik die optel bij mijn 56 begin steken kom ik op 92 st. en geen 72. De meerderingen moeten in mijn geval om de 4 cm maar dan kom ik niet uit op de 50 cm die ik dan moet hebben voor de armsgat mindering. Graag uw advies hierin. Vriendelijke groet Els

27.02.2021 - 12:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Els,

Er lijkt inderdaad een fout in te staan en volgens mij moet het 8 keer voor maat S zijn, in plaats van 18 keer.

02.03.2021 - 10:06

country flag Els wrote:

Bij het breien van de mouwen kom ik toch echt een probleem tegen. Voor maat S zet ik 56 steken op, na het patroon breien moet ik weerzijde van de markeerdraad 18x1 st, meerderen = volgens mij 38 steken. Wanneer ik die optel bij mijn 56 begin steken kom ik op 92 st. en geen 72. De meerderingen moeten in mijn geval om de 4 cm maar dan kom ik niet uit op de 50 cm die ik dan moet hebben voor de armsgat mindering. Graag uw advies hierin. Vriendelijke groet Els

22.02.2021 - 21:32

country flag Elaine wrote:

Thank you for your response but can you explain about the '6 bind offs' on the right front and '6 bind offs' from the left front totaling 12 bind offs? That would only leave 66 stitches for the back and not 80. Right?

15.12.2020 - 21:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Elaine, you bind off 6 stitches between front pieces and back piece for armhole, then you finish each piece together: front pieces = 54 sts and you bind off 3 sts 1 time + 2 sts 1 time + 1 st 2 time for armhole = 7 sts for armhole. On back piece, there are 94 sts and you bind off 7 sts on each side for armhole = 94-14= 80 sts remain. But when dividing you should have: 54 sts front piece, bind off 6, 94 sts back piece, bind off 6, 54 sts front piece. Happy knitting!

16.12.2020 - 06:55

country flag Elaine Peterson wrote:

Back for Medium size: When splitting each side and back, the directions say 'knit 54, bind off 6, knit 94, bind off 6, knit 54. If there are 54 stitches on each side and 12 bind offs, that only leaves 80 stitches for the back. When working the back it says to shape armhole that would leave 66 sts not 80. Is that correct? Left side: 54 stitches Right side; 54 stitches Two Bind offs: 12 Back: 80 stitches Total: 200 stitches

11.12.2020 - 21:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Peterson, when dividing piece on armholes, you will have (2nd size): 54 sts for each front piece and 94 sts for back piece. You then have to shape armhole casting off 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times = 7 sts in total are cast off on each front piece, but 14 sts will be cast off for back piece (= you cast off on each side for the armholes) = 80 sts remain after all cast off for armholes are done). Happy knitting!

14.12.2020 - 07:24

country flag Véronique wrote:

Ce modele se tricote t-il en un seul morceau pour le corps du gilet ? svp

25.01.2019 - 08:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Véronique, le dos et les deux devants se tricotent en une seule pièce jusqu'aux emmanchures, puis on termine chaque pièce séparément (devant gauche, devant droit et dos). Bon tricot!

25.01.2019 - 09:28

country flag Teresa wrote:

No entiendo el final de las instrucciones para la espalda:"Con 47-49-51-53-55 cm, tejer en resorte sobre los 40 pts centrales: 3r, * 2d, 2r *, repetir de *a*, terminar con 2d, 3r (tejer los restantes en pt jersey). " Haciéndolo así, supongo que quedará como cenefa a rayas.¿No se trataría más bien de hacer 3 vueltas (hileras) al revés, dos vueltas al derecho y 2 al revés para seguir el dibujo de la cenefa del cuerpo? El resto (los 7 p restantes) tampoco lo entiendo.

19.08.2018 - 11:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Teresa, el patrón es correcto, los 40 puntos centrales que se trabajan en punto elástico forman la cenefa del escote en la parte de la espalda, que se trabaja en punto elástico. Después de cerrar los 26 puntos centrales de estos 40, continuamos con 7 puntos a cada lado, trabajándolos a punto elástico para la cenefa del escote.

26.08.2018 - 16:25

country flag Gertruud Dijkstra wrote:

Ik heb een vraag over de omslag.Hoe moet de omslag tussen een rechte en averechte steek? En tussen een averechte en rechte steek? Ik brei nu door zonder de draad onder de naald naar voor resp. achter te brengen, maar dan worden de gaatjes niet even groot.

01.04.2018 - 07:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Gertruud, Als je een omslag maakt tussen een rechte en averechte steek dan breng je eerst de draad naar voren en daarna maak je nog een omslag. Andersom doe je dat ook zo: Eerst de draad naar achteren brengen en dan (indezefde richting) nog een omslag maken.

02.04.2018 - 10:17

country flag Veronique wrote:

In de laatste alinea van de brei instructies voor de mouwen wordt geschreven: "kant vervolgens 2 st af aan weerskanten tot een hoogte van 57 cm en vervolgens nog 1 x 3 st. Het werk heeft een hoogte van ca. 58 cm, kant de resterende st af." Is het de bedoeling dat ik eenmalig 2 steken afkant? En daarna nog eenmalig 3 steken. Ik heb namelijk al ongeveer een hoogte van 57 cm bereikt door een keer 2 steken af te kanten. Heel graag een antwoord. De rest van het patroon is heel duidelijk

24.02.2015 - 12:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Veronique. Je kant 2 st af aan beide zijkanten tot de mouw een hoogte heeft van 57 cm = dus je blijft 2 st afkanten tot die hoogte. Ben je na 1 keer 2 st afkanten op 57 cm, dan is dat goed. Daarna kant je een keer 3 st af aan beide kanten.

24.02.2015 - 15:53

country flag Gloria Sanders wrote:

I was all set to make this sweater and get my yarn--but after reading all the questions and comments I don't think I want too! What a disappointment! I don't see good answers to the questions. Please do the corrections for this pattern,as I don't like to try and fix what is wrong in a pattern. This pattern is worth fixing! It's pretty.

05.11.2014 - 02:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Sanders, pattern is correct and has been made several time succesfully. Would you have any question, you are welcome to ask there, remember you can also get help from your DROPS store if required. Happy knitting!

05.11.2014 - 09:30