DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.90£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 107-28
Measurements:
Length: approx 70 cm.
Width: approx 144 cm.

Materials: DROPS Fabel, from Garnstudio
250 g colour no 159, red chilli
and use: DROPS Alpaca, from Garnstudio
50 g colour no 3620, red


DROPS circular needle (80 cm) size 3.5 mm - or size needed to obtain 23 sts x 45 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS crochet hook size 3 mm – for border and button covers
DROPS wooden button, no 502, 2 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.90£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Garter st, back and forth on needle: K all rows

Pattern: See diagram M.1 and M.2 A/B. The diagram shows the pattern from the RS side.

Shawl: Knitted back and forth on circular needle from bottom up. Cast on 3 sts on needle size 3.5 mm with Fabel and work 1 vertical repeat of M.1 (first row = WS) = 15 sts. Now work M.2-A at beg of row and M.2-B at the end of row (work sts in between in garter st). Remember the knitting tension! After 14 vertical repeats of M.2-A/B there are 295 sts on row. Now work 1 vertical repeat of M.2-A/B, but do not work the last 2 rows in diagram = 331 sts. Work 2 rows garter st on all sts. Change to Alpaca and work 4 rows garter st on all sts. Cast off loosely.

Crochet border: Crochet a border along top edge of shawl (casting off row) with crochet hook size 3 mm and Alpaca as follows:
Row 1: 1 dc in corner st, *2 ch (= 1 ch-loop), skip 2 sts, 1 dc in next st*, repeat from *-*.
Round 2: Crochet with double thread Alpaca. 1 dc in first ch-loop, *3 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop*, repeat from *-*. At the same time after approx 27 cm, crochet a buttonhole by crocheting 5 ch instead of 3 ch and repeat after another 8 cm.
Button covers: Crochet 2 covers with crochet hook size 3 mm and Alpaca as follows:
2 ch, then 6 dc in the first ch, finish with 1 sl st in the first dc (= round 1).
Round 2: 2 dc in each dc = 12 dc.
Round 3: *1 dc in first dc, 1 dc in second dc, 2 dc in third dc*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round = 16 dc.
Round 4, 5 and 6: 1 dc in each dc.
Round 7: 1 dc in every other dc and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round = 8 dc.

Put buttons inside cover, sew round the edge of cover and tighten thread. Fold shawl double and sew on buttons approx 6 cm from crochet border to fit buttonholes.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 20.06.2008
diagram symbols
empty box = K from RS, K from WS

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 yo between 2 sts
symbols = cast off st.
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (64)

country flag Helen RAJOTTE wrote:

Trying to follow the pattern but the number of stitch do not correspond to the remarks in the written comments. After M 1 (15 stitchs) which is OK but then you start M.2A, how many stitchs do you knit inbetween M.2A AND M.2B because at the end of Row 14 I only get 55 sts not 295, a very big difference. Could you please enlighten me. Thank you.

10.03.2022 - 14:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Rajotte, after you have worked all rows in M.2A and M.2B you have 35 sts (cast off 9 sts in M.2B and 8 sts in M.2A); you wil so repeat the diagrams in height a total of 14 times (there will be 14 tips on each side); and then you have: 15 sts in M.2B, 265 sts in garter stitch, 15 sts in M.2A = 295 sts. Hope it will help. Happy knitting!

10.03.2022 - 18:21

country flag Josie wrote:

Bonjour\r\nJ\'ai fait le châle 107-28,je n\'arrive pas à envoyer une photo, aucuns modèles d\'ailleurs. Je voulais juste donner une petite astuce à celles et ceux qui veulent le réaliser. Il est en point mousse, ce qui veut dire double quantité de laine, et moi j\'avais commandé 4 pelotes en Fabel.donc,je l\'ai réalisé en jersey envers, une petite merveille. Merci pour les boutons, c\'est la première fois que je fais cela. A bientôt.

28.09.2019 - 11:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Josie, vous pouvez publier votre photo sur notre Facebook, dans notre groupe DROPS Workshop ou bien nous envoyer votre lien (blog, site, instagram, ravelry...) - la quantité nécessaire est bien de 250 g Fabel et le châle se tricote au point mousse, toutefois, pensez toujours à bien vérifier votre échantillon auparavant. Bon tricot!

30.09.2019 - 12:09

country flag Anna wrote:

Sto lavorando questo bellissimo scialle ma noto che le puntine si arrotolano sul retro del lavoro. Come posso fare per farle venire come nella fotografia? Grazie

04.01.2017 - 18:53

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Anna. Quando lava lo scialle lo può far asciugare su un materassino fissando ogni punta con uno spillo. Buon lavoro!

04.01.2017 - 18:59

country flag Elis wrote:

Hallo, bin gerade am Stricken des Tuches (Sockenwolle). Leider schlagen sich die Zacken von Anfang an nach hinten um, so dass ich Bedenken habe, ob dies nach dem Fertigstellen noch zu korrigieren ist. Hat eine Strickerin/ein Stricker Erfahrung damit? Gruß Elis

07.03.2016 - 10:40

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Elis, auf dem Foto kann man erkennen, dass sich die Zacken etwas biegen. Sie können aber dsa Tuch spannen und damit die Zacken etwas glätten.

07.03.2016 - 13:10

country flag Amélie wrote:

Bonjour, Je n'ai pas trop l'habitude de tricoter et vu les explications, j'ai du mal à tout comprendre... Au bout du dessin, je suis à environ 10 cm, comment dois-je continuer après ? Merci d'avance de votre réponse, j'aime beaucoup ce modèle et après avoir acheté la laine, je serai déçue de ne pas pouvoir le réaliser !

17.02.2016 - 21:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Amélie, après avoir tricoté le diagramme M.1, vous tricotez ainsi: M.2A (à droite vu sur l'endroit), M.2B (à gauche vu sur l'endroit) - quand ces 2 diagrammes sont tricotés 1 fois en hauteur continuez de la même façon avec M.2 A à droite (vu sur l'endroit) et M.2B à gauche (vu sur l'endroit) et tricotez au point mousse les mailles entre les 2 diagrammes. Bon tricot!

18.02.2016 - 10:02

country flag Carina wrote:

Hej! Jag tycker att det är en fantastiskt fin sjal på bilden. Tyvärr får jag inte riktigt till det. Jag får inte de flikiga ytterkanterna runt sjalen. När jag stickar blir ytterkanterna jämna för jag gör ju ökningarna i samband med omslaget. Vag gör jag för fel? Hur ska jag göra? Det är ju de flikiga kanterna som gör den så snygg. MVH Carina

24.05.2014 - 12:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Carina. Du tager jo ud i hver anden pind, som saa gör at du faar 2 masker mere for hver anden pind. I den andensidste pind af mönstret lukker du 9 masker af = som saa former spidsen af kanten.

20.06.2014 - 12:25

country flag Röder wrote:

Der letzte Satz in der Anleitung ist nicht vollständig. Wie geht er zu Ende?

27.09.2013 - 15:48

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Röder - Danke für den Hinweis, wir werden die Anleitung gleich richtig ergänzen.

27.09.2013 - 21:09

country flag Mette Jensen wrote:

Den røde kant med alpaca er den strikket i glat eller i ret som den øvrige del af sjalet

10.04.2013 - 18:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mette. Nej, den er haeklet. Se beskrivelsen under Hæklekant. God fornöjelse.

10.04.2013 - 19:19

country flag Theresa wrote:

I love the colour in this shawl, colours that capture me!!

09.04.2011 - 00:38

country flag Gisi wrote:

Habe es gestrickt, sieht einfach super aus...danke an drops für das tolle modell

06.07.2010 - 15:43