DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.90£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 103-5
For blue knitted Drops socks in ”Fabel” knitted sideways in stocking sts, see design
no 103-43

Size: 4/5 – 5/6 – 6/7 (Uk sizes)
Length of the foot: 22 24 26 cm
Length of the leg: 24 26 28 cm

Materials: DROPS Fabel from Garnstudio
100-150-150 g col. 672, winered mix

DROPS needles size 2.5 mm – or the size needle to obtain the correct knitting tension.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.90£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 26 sts x 52 rows in garter sts = 10 x 10 cm.
Garter sts: Knit back and forth on all rows.
Knitting tips: Every time turning mid back on row, slip 1 st. Tighten the thread and continue as before. This is done to avoid a hole.
Assembly: The sts at the toe are pulled tog. tight at the end. Insert therefore a thread in the outer part of the most outer sts towards the toe and let this thread folow the work. Use this thread to pull tight with at the end.


Socks: Knit the sock back and forth beg. mid underneath the foot, working you way up over the instep and finish again underneath the foot.
Knit the sock in garter sts throughout - see explanation above.
Remember the knitting tension!
Toe: On every 3rd and 4th row knit ”shorten rows” , this means on every other row knitted towards the toe turn before all sts are completet as follows: turn when 10-13-16 sts left - read knitting tips!
Cast on 120-130-140 sts on needles size 2,5 mm with Fabel. Knit a ”rise” at the back part of the sock as follows:
Knit 12 sts, turn, slip 1 st, knit 11 sts back.
Knit 20 sts, turn, slip 1 st, knit 19 sts back.
Knit 28 sts, turn, slip 1 st, knit 27 sts back.
Knit 36 sts, turn, slip 1 st, knit 35 sts back.
Knit 44 sts, turn, slip 1 st, knit 43 sts back.
Knit 52 sts, turn, slip 1 st, knit 51 sts back.
Size 6/7: Knit 60 sts, turn, slip 1 st, knit 59 sts.
All sizes: Knit 6 rows over all sts (remember the shorten rows towards the toe – the opporsite side of the ”rise”). Read assembly tips above!
Then dec. for the heel as follows: Insert 1 MT (marking thread) in the 62nd – 68th- 72nd sts (counted from the side with the ”rise”). Dec 1 st each side of the MT on every other row a total of 11 times = 98-108-118 sts. Knit in garter sts until the work measures 9-11-13 cm from last dec.
Now inc. for the heel as follows: Insert 1 MT in the 51st -57th- 61st st (counted from the side with the ”rise”). Inc 1 st each side of the MT on every other row a total of 11 times = 120-130-140 sts. Knit 6 rows over all sts.
Continue with the rise at the mid back as follows:
Size 6/7: Knit 60 sts, turn, slip 1 st, knit 59 sts back.
Al sizes: Knit 52 sts, turn, slip 1 st, knit 51 sts back.
Knit 44 sts, turn, slip 1 st, knit 43 sts back.
Knit 36 sts, turn, slip 1 st, knit 35 sts back.
Knit 28 sts, turn, slip 1 st, knit 27 sts back.
Knit 20 sts, turn, slip 1 st, knit 19 sts back.
Knit 12 sts, turn, slip 1 st, knit 11 sts back.
Put remaining sts on a thread or a stitch holder. Knit another sock.
Assembly: Sew the sts from the thread or stitch holder and the casting on edge tog. with small grafting sts. The seam is then underneath the foot and up along the back side of the leg. Pull the sts at the toe tog and sew tight.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (51)

country flag Emilia wrote:

Polskie tłumaczenie. Jest 'Palce: przerabiane rzędami skróconymi: co 3 lub 4 rz.' W angielskim jest 'co 3 i 4 rz.' i ma to więcej sensu.

10.12.2022 - 17:13

country flag Sissel Berntsen wrote:

Får dere inn fargen vinrød i Fabel igjen ?

02.05.2021 - 21:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Sissel. Farge nr. 672, vinrød er dessverre utgått fra Fabels farge sortiment. mvh DROPS design

03.05.2021 - 15:02

country flag Annett wrote:

Ich sehe nicht durch, wann ich verkürzte R wegen der Zehen stricken soll.Immer wenn in ganzen R gestrickt wird? Und dann auch nur in der jeweils 3.R und die 4.R ist die Rückreihe der 3.R und dann erst wieder eine verkürzte R für die Zehen wenn zwischendurch an Schaft oder Ferse verkürzt wurde??? Ich bitte um Hilfe.

17.04.2020 - 10:28

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Annett, damit es weniger Reihen gegen der Spitze gestrickt werden, stricken Sie immer (2 Reihen über allen Maschen, bei der nächsten Hinreihe stricken Sie bis 10-13-16 Maschen für die Spitze bleiben, wenden Sie und stricken Sie die Rückreihe) - diese 4 Reihen von (bis) wiederholen Sie die ganze Socken (aber nur wenn Sie über alle Maschen stricken, dh nicht beim den verkürzten Reihen am Anfang und am Ende). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

17.04.2020 - 10:43

country flag Annie wrote:

Un montage provisoire sur une chainette ne serait il pas préférable pour réaliser la couture en rafting à la fin ?

11.12.2019 - 15:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Annie, vous pouvez tout à fait utiliser n'importe quelle technique de montage provisoire si vous le souhaitez, la couture sera effectivement plus fine. Bon tricot!

11.12.2019 - 16:04

country flag Antonia wrote:

A l'aide !... Tricoter six rangs sur toutes les mailles (ne pas oublier de faire les rangs raccourcis vers la pointe du pied mais combien de fois ? Ensuite diminuer pour le talon, puis augmenter pour le talon, puis 6 rangs sur toutes les mailles on est milieu du devant ? ... Je suis "perdue" !

17.05.2019 - 20:34

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Antonia, après la réhausse de la tige, on tricote toutes les mailles avec des rangs raccourcis (cf réponse précédente) - tricotez 6 rangs puis commencez à diminuer de chaque côté du marqueur, quand toutes les diminutions sont faites, tricotez pendant 9-11-13 cm (après la dernière diminution) puis augmentez de chaque côté du marqueur. Tricotez 6 rangs sur toutes les mailles et tricotez la réhausse de la tige. Bon tricot!

20.05.2019 - 09:44

country flag Antonia wrote:

Faut-il faire les rangs raccourcis de la pointe après les 6 rangs tricotés sur toutes les mailles ? Merci à vous !

17.05.2019 - 17:42

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Antonia, les rangs raccourcis de la pointe se tricotent dès que l'on tricote toutes les mailles, donc au 3ème de ces 6 rangs sur toutes les mailles, laissez les 10-13-16 mailles de fin de rang (sans les tricoter), tournez, et tricotez le 4ème de ces 6 rangs et continuez ainsi, toujours 2 rangs sur toutes les mailles, 2 rangs sur les premières mailles (sans les 10-13-16 m de la pointe du pied). Bon tricot!

20.05.2019 - 09:00

country flag Ellen wrote:

Hei. Finnes denne oppskriften i barnestørrelser? Veldig grei sokk å strikke, men skulle gjerne hatt de i små størrelser også! :)

14.09.2015 - 11:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Ellen. Nei, desvaerre har vi ikke denne i barnestr endnu.

16.09.2015 - 11:18

country flag Annica wrote:

Denna strumpa är den bästa jag vet! Både att sticka och att använda! Ett TIPS är att ändra mönstet så att sömen blir på ovansidan - vilket ökar behaglighetskänslan ännu mer!

06.10.2014 - 16:00

country flag Ellen wrote:

Hei Jeg har prøvd å lete etter en instruksjonsvideo for å sy sammen med maskesting når det er rillestrikk og jeg ikke har maskene på pinnen. Finnes det en instruksjonsvideo om dette?

02.05.2014 - 15:18

country flag Sue wrote:

Hello, when knitting the short row toe,and turn at 16 sts before end, do you turn at the next turning row at the same point or at 32 sts before the end ect? Please advise and thanks so much.

29.01.2014 - 00:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sue, for short rows towards toe, you work 2 rows (back and forth) on all sts (incl toe sts), then work 2 rows leaving the last 16 sts towards toe unworked. Repeat these 4 rows upwards. Happy knitting!

29.01.2014 - 16:09