DROPS Andes
DROPS Andes
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 4.70 £ /100g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 70.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Winter Poppies

Set consists of: Knitted DROPS jumper with round yoke and Nordic pattern and hat with Nordic pattern and pompom in "Andes". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 164-28
DROPS design: Pattern no an-029
Yarn group E or C + C
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JUMPER:
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ANDES from Garnstudio
600-600-700-700-800-900 g colour no 9020, light grey
100 g for all sizes of the following colours:
colour no 3740, coral
colour no 3755, cerise
colour no 5310, light brown
Colour no 7120, light grey green

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 8 mm - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rounds in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 7 mm - for rib.

HAT:
Size: S/M - L/XL
Head circumference: approx. 54/56 - 58/60 cm
Materials:
DROPS ANDES from Garnstudio
100 g for both sizes of the following colours:
colour no 9020, light grey (45-50 g)
colour no 3755, cerise (32-35 g)
colour no 3740, coral (19-21 g)
colour no 7120, light grey green (18-20 g)
colour no 5310, light brown (16-18 g)

No in (-) shows approx. how many grams are used of each colour if left-over yarn is used.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 7 mm (size S/M) or SIZE 8 mm (size L/XL) - or size needed to get 12 sts x 16 rounds in stocking st (size S/M) or 11 sts x 15 rounds in stocking st (size L/XL) = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 6 mm (size S/M) or SIZE 7 mm (size L/XL) - for rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Andes
DROPS Andes
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 4.70 £ /100g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 70.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JUMPER:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for correct size. Work entire pattern in stocking st.

INCREASE TIP:
Work until 1 sts remain before marker: Make 1 YO, K 2 sts (marker is in the middle of these two sts), make 1 YO (= 2 sts inc). On next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting tension to tighten when working pattern on yoke, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle no when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 110-124-138-154-168-182 sts on circular needle size 7 mm with light grey. K 1 round. Then work rib = K 1/P 1 for 5 cm. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm and K 1 round while dec 20-22-24-28-30-32 sts evenly = 90-102-114-126-138-150 sts. Then work in stocking st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 12-13-11-12-11-12 cm, work pattern according to diagram A.1. When piece measures approx. 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm - adjust so that 1 round with light grey after a round with dots has been worked - work next round as follows: Cast off 2-3-3-4-4-4 sts for armhole, work 41-45-51-55-61-67 sts (= front piece), cast off 4-6-6-8-8-8 sts for armhole, work 41-45-51-55-61-67 sts (= back piece) and cast off the remaining 2-3-3-4-4-4 sts for armhole. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 24-26-28-28-30-30 sts on double pointed needles size 7 mm with light grey. K 1 round. Then work rib = K 1/P 1 for 5 cm. Switch to double pointed needles size 8 mm and K 1 round while dec 1 st on round = 23-25-27-27-29-29 sts. Then work in stocking st. When piece measures 10 cm, inc 2 sts mid under sleeve - READ INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc every 4-3½-3½-3-3-3 cm a total of 9-10-10-11-11-11 times = 41-45-47-49-51-51 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx. 32-32-31-31-30-30 cm, work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1 - NOTE: St with arrow in diagram should fit middle st on round - count outwards where round beg. When piece measures 44-44-43-43-42-42 cm (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulder) - adjust so that 1 round with light grey after 1 round with dots has been worked - work next round as follows: Cast off the first 2-3-3-4-4-4 sts, work 37-39-41-41-43-43 sts and cast off the remaining 2-3-3-4-4-4 sts. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off (without working them first) = 156-168-184-192-208-220 sts on needle. K 1 round with light grey while dec 6-8-4-2-8-0 sts evenly = 150-160-180-190-200-220 sts on needle. K 0-2-2-2-0-2 rounds with light grey
Then work pattern according to diagram A.2 (choose diagram for correct size) and READ KNITTING TIP (= 15-16-18-19-20-22 repetitions on round). Continue pattern like this and dec as shown in diagram.
When A.2 has been worked (finish after a round marked with arrow for correct size), there are 60-64-72-76-80-88 sts on needle and piece measures approx. 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm up to shoulder.

ELEVATION IN NECK:
For better fit work an elevation at the back of neck. Insert 1 marker mid back and work back and forth on circular needle with light grey as follows: K 10-10-12-12-13-14 sts past marker, turn, tighten yarn and P 20-20-24-24-26-28 sts back. Turn, tighten yarn and K 30-30-36-36-39-42 sts, turn, tighten yarn and P 40-40-48-48-52-56 sts back. Turn piece, tighten yarn and K until mid back.
K 1 round over all sts with light grey while dec 14-18-22-26-26-34 sts evenly = 46-46-50-50-54-54 sts on needle.

NECK EDGE:
Switch to a short circular needle size 7 mm and light grey green and work 5 rounds in stocking st before LOOSELY casting off with K. Jumper measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm up to shoulder.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.
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HAT:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.3 and A.4. Work entire pattern in stocking st.

DECREASE TIP:
Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1 with light grey, psso.
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HAT:
Work size S/M on circular needle/double pointed needles size 6 and 7 mm.
Work size L/XL on circular needle/double pointed needles size 7 and 8 mm.
Worked in the round on circular needle, switch to double pointed needles when needed. Cast on 54 sts on circular needle size 6-7 mm with light grey green. Work rib = K 1/P 1 for 4-5 cm. Switch to double pointed needles size 7-8 mm and work pattern in the round according to diagram A.3 (= 9 repetitions on round). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION After A.3 (piece measures approx. 15-16 cm), work pattern according to diagram A.4. When piece measures 20-21 cm, insert 6 markers in the piece, 9 sts apart. Continue A.4 and dec 1 st after every marker - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every other round 3 times in total, then every round 2 times in total = 24 sts remain on needle (work sts that do not fit pattern when dec, in light grey). On next round K all sts twisted tog 2 by 2 with light grey = 12 sts remain on needle. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

POMPOM:
Make a pompom with cerise, 10 cm in diameter and fasten it at the top of hat.

Diagram

symbols = light grey
symbols = cerise
symbols = light grey green
symbols = coral
symbols = light brown
symbols = K 2 tog with pattern colour in diagram
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1 with pattern colour in diagram, psso
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (21)

country flag Eli Vadset wrote:

Hvordan få kjøpe strikkejakke av denne genseren

12.09.2022 - 12:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Eli. For å finne oppskrift på jakken lik denne genseren, ta en titt her: Winter Poppies Cardigan mvh DROPS Design

12.09.2022 - 14:25

country flag Camilla wrote:

Findes der en instruktionsvideo på hvordan man tager ud? Er nået til 10cm på ærmet hvor der står man skal tage 2 m ud. Ved dog ikke hvordan.

07.03.2022 - 22:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Camilla. UDTAGNINGSTIPS: Start 1 m før mærket, slå om, strik 2 ret (mærket sidder midt mellem disse to m), slå om (= 2 m taget ud). På næste omg strikkes omslagen drejet ret så der ikke bliver hul. Mvh DROPS Design

09.03.2022 - 13:52

country flag Alba wrote:

Hola, estoy ya en la fase final de " elevación parte posterior del Escote" hay algún video explicativo de como hacerlo. No entiendo bien cómo hay que realizarlo. Gracias

19.09.2021 - 13:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Alba, no hay un vídeo para trabajar esta parte en específico, pero sí hay un vídeo para la técnica usada, las filas acortadas: https://www.garnstudio.com/video.php?id=66&lang=es De todas formas, esta parte no es obligatoria; puedes pasar directamente al cuello.

19.09.2021 - 22:24

country flag Kniterella wrote:

I am knitting tbe Winter Poppies jumper, I havre knitted body n sleeves, how do I attach them without underarm holes? I don't like ur Tutorials as there is no audio insteuctions. I looked on YoyTube videod but all are top down yoke jumoers. I don't like top down anything, socks are Ik. Three needle cast off on underarm stitches does not work. I'm really syuck. I would like to finish my jumper after waiting 5 yrs to make.

15.03.2021 - 03:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kniterella, you simply slip the stitches on the same needle. The few stutches cast off will help the sleeve / shoulder sit better, and give yor arm more mobility, these stitches are sewn together after finishing the knitting. Happy knitting!

15.03.2021 - 08:13

country flag Patricia McDermott wrote:

I have printed the pattern for Winter Poppies but the diagram did not print. How can I print off the diagrams. Regards Tricia

05.11.2020 - 18:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs McDermott, make sure your printer didn't save previous settings, all pages should be printed. Happy knitting!

06.11.2020 - 08:10

country flag Kniterella wrote:

I have nearly finished the body of jumper, just cast off for sleeves. I’m casting on 2 sleeves at the same time on circular needles, I can’t find a mustard yellow Andes yarn ball, is this yarn discontinued?

03.01.2020 - 15:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kniterella, Andes is not discontinued, but it has never mustard yellow colour. All available colours you can find here. Happy knitting!

03.01.2020 - 18:10

country flag Orysia Zwiryk wrote:

I am knitting up Winter Poppies jumper, but have used other colours. I need some advice on contract colours. I have lt olive skun colour, chestnut red hair. The colours are MC Lt Beige mix 0206 Christmas red Lt Brown Turqupise and Grey Green Are these colours Ok?

04.09.2018 - 22:22

DROPS Design answered:

Deat Orysia. With a MC as light beige your combo sounds great! Do share photos on our Facebook Group when you will have your Winter Poppies jumper done. Happy Knitting!

06.09.2018 - 11:34

country flag Covadonga wrote:

Buenos días, Estoy tejiendo en agujas circulares este jersey. Acabo de empezar el diagrama A1 y me surgen dos dudas. ¿el punto en color magenta se teje en una vuelta o en dos? como en redondo no hay lado del derecho y del revés...Y otra pregunta tengo que arrastra el color magenta en las vueltas que son gris solamente o lo dejo en espera y lo retomo en la vuelta que hay que volver a tejer un puto en magenta? Espero haberme explicado bien con mis dudas. Gracias por anticipado. Covadonga

14.11.2016 - 13:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Covadonga. Los puntos color magenta se trabajan solo en una vta. Es mejor ir subiendo el hilo de color magenta para que en el lado revés no queden hilos colgados.

19.11.2016 - 18:14

Andrea wrote:

Ich habe zwei Fragen. 1.In der Anleitung für die Ärmel heißt es, dass man 10xdie Zunahmen machen soll. Soll man bei einer Gesamtlänge von 32cm mit dem Läusemuster beginnen? Ich habe bis dahin erst 7 Zunahmen gemacht. Verändert sich durch die Zunahme nicht die Position des Läusemusters? 2. Wo genau beginne ich mit dem Läusemuster? Erst ab der mittleren Masche der Runde oder muss ich das Muster rückwärts bis zum Rundenanfang rechnen? Vielen Dank für die Hilfe.

05.10.2016 - 18:31

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Andrea, A.1 müssen Sie stricken wenn die Ärmel 32 cm misst (1. + 2. Grösse), die Masche mit dem Pfeil in A.1 muss die mittlere Masche der Rand übereinstimmen, die Zunahmen sollen Sie im A.1 stricken, aber passen Sie mal auf, dass die Muster in der Höhe immer anpasst. Hier können Sie lesen, wie man ein Muster in der Mitte plaziert. Hier müssen Sie diese Masche mit dem Pfeil zentrieren.

06.10.2016 - 09:07

country flag Elvira wrote:

Tak for svaret, jeg forstår dog stadig ikke helt det med ærmegabet. Jeg strikker i str. m, og der står at jeg skal lukke 3 af til ærme, strikke forstykket, lukke 6 af, strikke bagstykke, og så lukke de sidste 3 af til ærmet. Så ender jeg da mist i ærmegabet..? Eller har jeg misforstået det fuldstændig?

15.09.2016 - 11:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Elvira. Jeg kan se min kollegas svar og jeg er ikke enig med hende. Saa vidt jeg kan se ender du midt i andet aermegab fordi du skal have 6 m i alt til hvert aermegab (3 paa hver side af siden). Men jeg ville evt saa starte med at strikke forstk (uden at lukke af), lukke 6 m af til aermegab, strikke rygstk til 3 för start af omg, lukke 6 m af og saa er du i start af forstk igen med 6 aflukkede m i hver side. Gör som du selv synes er paenest.

15.09.2016 - 11:59