DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Sweet Olivia Vest

Knitted DROPS vest in garter st with raglan, worked top down in "Alpaca". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 164-43
DROPS design: Pattern no z-712
Yarn group A
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
250-300-350-350-400-450 g colour no 7233, olive

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm. And 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 2.5 mm - for edges.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON: Arched (white), NO 521: 7 pieces in all sizes

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = work until 3 sts remain on needle (seen from RS), make 1 YO, K 2 tog and K the last 1 st.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 2, 9, 16, 24, 32, 40 and 48 cm
SIZE M: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34, 42 and 50 cm
SIZE L: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34, 42 and 50 cm
SIZE XL: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34, 43 and 52 cm
SIZE XXL: 2, 10, 18, 27, 36, 45 and 54 cm
SIZE XXXL: 2, 11, 20, 29, 38, 47 and 56 cm

RAGLAN:
Inc 1 st on each side of the 11 raglan sts. Inc by K 2 sts in st both before and after the 11 raglan sts (= 2 sts inc at every A.1). All inc are done from RS.

MEASURING TIP:
Because of garter st the garment will be longer when worn. All length measurements must therefore be done while holding up the garment.
----------------------------------------------------------

VEST:
Work back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 106-106-106-114-114-114 sts (incl 5 band sts each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Alpaca. Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and K 1 row from RS while inc 24 sts evenly - NOTE: P the outermost 5 sts in each side towards mid front and do not inc over these sts (= band sts) = 130-130-130-138-138-138 sts on row.
Insert 4 markers in the piece as follows (from WS): P 5 (= band sts), K 19-19-19-21-21-21 (= right front piece), insert 1 marker in next st, K 20 (= sleeve), insert 1 marker in next st, K 38-38-38-42-42-42 (= back piece), insert 1 marker in next st, K 20 (= sleeve), insert 1 marker in next st, K 19-19-19-21-21-21 (= left front piece) and finish with P 5 (= band sts).
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING:
Then work ridges (1st row = RS) but in every transition between body and sleeves work A.1 (= 11 sts - NOTE: St with marker should fit with st with arrow in diagram), P the 5 band sts in each side towards mid front on every row until finished measurements.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION and remember to dec for BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above.
AT THE SAME TIME on first row from RS beg inc for RAGLAN – see explanation above. NOTE: Inc differently on body and sleeves:
BODY: Inc every other row (i.e. every row from RS) a total of 13-21-26-34-42-53 times and then every 4th row (i.e. every other row from RS) a total of 14-11-10-7-4-0 times.
SLEEVE: Inc every other row a total of 17-19-18-20-18-21 times, and on every 4th row a total of 12-12-14-14-16-16 time.

After all inc for raglan there are 354-382-402-438-458-498 sts on row and piece measures approx. 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm from shoulder.
Work next row as follows from WS: Work 52-57-61-68-73-80 sts (= right front piece), slip the next 78-82-84-88-88-94 sts on 1 stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new sts (= under sleeve), work 94-104-112-126-136-150 sts (= back piece), slip the next 78-82-84-88-88-94 sts on 1 stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 sts (= under sleeve), work the remaining 52-57-61-68-73-80 sts (= left front piece).

BODY:
= 210-230-250-278-302-330 sts. Continue to work in garter st back and forth and P bands - remember buttonholes on right band.
When piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm, measured from where sleeve was divided under sleeve (or desired length) – READ MEASURING TIP, P 1 row from WS while inc 2 sts evenly = 212-232-252-280-304-332 sts on needle. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work 3 rows rib (= K 2/P 2) with 5 band sts in garter st and 2 K in each side towards mid front (seen from RS). Then LOOSELY cast off sts with K over K and P over P. Entire vest measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Slip the 78-82-84-88-88-94 sts from stitch holder in one side of piece back on double pointed needles size 3 mm and cast in addition on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new sts mid under sleeve = 84-88-92-96-98-104 sts. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST in the round - see explanation above (make sure to continue correct according to yoke). Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and K 1 round. Then work 4 rounds rib = K 2/P 2. Then LOOSELY cast off sts with K over K and P over P. Repeat around the other sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 164-43

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (44)

country flag Margaret wrote:

After putting sleeves on the stitch holder does the A1 pattern stop? Also, I don’t understand the directions for the bottom of the body while working 3 ribbing rows “…with 5 band sts in garter st and 2K in each side towards mid front.” Where exactly are the 2K stitches supposed to be? Thanks for your help.

14.01.2024 - 22:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Margaret, yes, you start the body with garter stitch and the purled bands, so you don't work A.1 anymore. On the bottom of the body: start the row with 5 band sts in garter stitch, then work the rib (k2, p2) until 7 sts remain on the row, finish the row with k2 and 5 band sts in garter stitch. Happy knitting!

14.01.2024 - 23:35

country flag Lise Girard wrote:

Bonjour, pour les augmentations devant /dos/manche/ pour la grandeur M augmenter 21 fois tous les 2 rangs et 11 fois tous les 4 rangs. Est-ce que je dois premièrement augmenter 21 fois et après augmenter 11 fois ???

30.07.2023 - 01:08

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Girard, oui tout à fait, vous augmentez pour le dos et les devants d'abord 21 fois tous les 2 rangs puis 11 fois tous les 4 rangs, et, en même temps, vous augmentez pour les manches 19 fois tous les 2 rangs puis 12 fois tous les 4 rangs. Autrement dit, vous augmentez à un rythme différent pour le dos/les devants et pour les manches, et pendant quelques rangs vous augmenterez alternativement 4 mailles (dos et devants seulement tous les 2 rangs quand on doit commencer à augmenter tous les 4 rangs pour les manches) et 8 mailles (dos, devants et manches). Bon tricot!

31.07.2023 - 10:42

country flag Almut Dietzfelbinger wrote:

BITTE BEACHTEN: am Rumpfteil und an den Ärmeln wird in unterschiedlichem Rhythmus zugenommen: RUMPFTEIL: in jeder 2. R (d.h. in jeder Hin-R) insgesamt 13 x und dann in jeder 4. R (d.h. in jeder 2. Hin-R) insgesamt 14 x. ÄRMEL: in jeder 2. R insgesamt 17 x und dann in jeder 4. R insgesamt 12 x. Heisst das, dass ich an den A1 Übergängen zur Brust bzw. zum Rücken hin anders zunehme? Also kein gleichmässiges Raglan in den Reihen? Danke Euch

18.05.2023 - 10:59

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Dietzfelbinger, es bedeutet, daß man (je nach der Größe) abwechslungsweise 8 Maschen (= beim Rumpf und Ärmel) und 4 Maschen (= in jeder 2. Reihe beim Rumpf aber in jeder 4. Reihe bei den Ärmel), und dann wieder 8 Maschen (= beim Rumpf und Ärmel in jeder 4. Reihe) zunimmt. Die Zunahmen entstehen dann vor und oder nach den Markierungen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.05.2023 - 08:06

country flag De Iorio Grazia wrote:

Buongiorno, vorrei sapere come regolarmi per gli aumenti raglan, nel senso , quali sono dei 4 segnapunti quelli riferiti alle maniche (forse quelli vicini al davanti?) a quali segnapunti corrispondono quelli del corpo (forse i due che delimitano il dietro) visto che gli aumenti sono diversi, grazie e buon lavoro

25.02.2023 - 13:03

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Grazia, i 4 segnapunti delimitano il passaggio tra il davanti/dietro e le maniche, per cui deve aumentare in modo diverso all'interno o esterno dei segnapunti. Buon lavoro!

26.02.2023 - 14:56

country flag Claudia Biyik wrote:

Ist das richtig das in jeder zweiten Reihe 8 Maschen zugenommen werden .

08.07.2022 - 22:27

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Biyik, also nicht immer, die Zunahmen werdern um einen unterschiedlichen Rythmus bei den Ärmeln und bei den Vorderteilen/Rückenteil gestrickt. Sie werden entweder 8 Maschen (Rumpfteil + Ärmel) zunehmen, und dann nur 4 Maschen (z.B. wenn mann für den Rumpfteil in jeder 4. Reihe aber immer noch in jeder 2. Reihen bei den Ärmeln zunimmt). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.07.2022 - 09:06

country flag Susanne wrote:

Ich habe einige Fragen zu dem Übergang von der Raglanpasse zum Rumpfteil: wie verteile ich die Maschen vom Muster (A1)? Gehören sie 6/5 zu Vorderteil und Ärmel oder alle zum Vorderteil? Endet das Muster einfach? Und sind bei den 61 Maschen des Vorderteils die 5 Maschen der Blende enthalten? Vielen Dank!

29.01.2021 - 19:14

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Susanne, in L bestehen alle de 61 Maschen für das Vorderteil aus die 5 BlendeMaschen+die 19 Maschen + die 36 Raglanzunahmen + die Masche mit der Markierung = 61. (Rückenteil = 38 M + 72 Zunahmen + die 2 Maschen mit der Markierung beidseitig = 110 Maschen ; Ärmel = 20 M + 64 Zunahmen = 84 M). Nach der Passe wird A.1 nicht mehr gestrickt. Viel Spaßbeim stricken!

01.02.2021 - 07:55

country flag Margaret wrote:

I am making the large size. After increasing 24 stitches evenly I have 130 stitches total. However, if I place the markers as directed in the next step the count doesn’t come out right...5 (band stitches) + 19 + 20 + 38 + 20 + 19 + 5 (band stitches) only equals 126 total stitches.

21.01.2021 - 04:11

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Margaret, You insert the markers in the next stitch after each count, which gives you your 4 missing stitches. So count 19, marker in next stitch = 20, count 20 stitches, marker in next stitch =21, etc. Happy knitting!

21.01.2021 - 07:35

country flag Geraldine wrote:

I don't understand this instruction "Note: inc differently on body and sleeves." At this stage the raglan shaping is all one piece in a continuous line - four lots of A1 pattern. So I don't know where to increase differently. Hope you can help Thanks. Geraldine

18.06.2020 - 06:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Geraldine, you work A.1 at each transition between body and sleeves but you will increase either 8 sts (= body and sleeves) or only 4 sts (sleeves or body only depending on the size). Happy knitting!

18.06.2020 - 10:23

country flag Tineke wrote:

Kan ik de mouwen ook op een rondbreinaald afmaken?

05.01.2020 - 16:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Tineke,

Jazeker, dat kan ook met een rondbreinaald!

08.01.2020 - 09:49

country flag Helena wrote:

Thank you for your explanation. It now makes sense for the band stitches. You are great! I much appreciate your company and the service you provide.

03.11.2019 - 19:53