DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 161-16
DROPS design: Pattern no fa-287
Yarn group A
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Measurements: Width: 85 cm Length: 135 cm
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
200 g colour no 340, blue lagoon
200 g colour no 522, turquoise/blue
150 g colour no 100, off white
150 g colour no 107, blue

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm – or size needed to get 20 sts x 40 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.5. The entire piece is worked in garter st.

STRIPES:
Work A.1 7 times vertically, continue with off white for 2½ cm.
Work A.1 6 times vertically, A.2 4 times vertically, then continue with off white for 2 cm.
Work A.1 8 times vertically, work 1 ridge with blue lagoon, then work A.3 4 times vertically.
Work A.1 7 times vertically, work 1 ridge with blue lagoon, continue with A.3 for 31 cm.
Work A.4 4 times vertically, then work A.3 4 times vertically.
Work A.5 4 times vertically, then continue with blue for 4 cm.
Work A.2 8 times vertically, continue with A.5 for 10 cm, then continue with blue for 4 cm.
Work A.5 for 5 cm.
Then work with blue until finished measurements.
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BLANKET:
Work entire blanket in garter st from corner to corner.
Cast on 3 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm with off white and work 1 ridge in GARTER ST – see explanation above, AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st at beg of every row (both from RS and WS) by making 1 YO inside 1 edge st in garter st. On next row K YO twisted to avoid holes.
Repeat inc at beg of every row until piece measures 35 cm along both sides (NOTE: Measure always along the side throughout the piece). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION Then work PATTERN and STRIPES - see explanation above. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 85 cm, dec 1 st at beg of row from RS by K the 2 outermost sts inside 1 edge st twisted tog. AT THE SAME TIME at the end of same row (i.e. at the end of row from RS) inc 1 new st by making 1 YO inside 1 edge st, turn and K back without dec/inc (K YOs twisted). Repeat dec at beg of row and inc at the end of row every other row upwards (i.e. on every row from RS - no of sts is constant), until piece measures 135 cm along the longest side on blanket. Now dec 1 st at beg of every row by K 2 sts tog inside 1 edge st. Repeat dec at beg of every row (both from RS and WS) until 5 sts remain on row. Work next row from RS as follows: K 1, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 1. Turn piece, K back and then cast off the last 3 sts.

Diagram

symbols = 1 ridge in blue lagoon
symbols = 1 ridge in off white
symbols = 1 ridge in turquoise/blue
symbols = 1 ridge in blue
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (23)

country flag Sandra Tanz wrote:

Hallo, verstehe ich das richtig,dass ich die Zunahmen solange wiederholen muss,bis die 85 cm auf beiden Seiten erreicht sind? Wofür brauche ich dann die Abgabe der 35 cm? Bin etwas irritiert MfG S.Tanz

30.12.2022 - 18:49

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Tanz, also das Muster und die Streifen beginnen Sie wenn die Arbeit 35 cm auf beiden Seiten misst - aber die Zunahmen werden bis 85 cm wiederholt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

02.01.2023 - 13:35

country flag Lundee wrote:

Bonjour, Merci pour ce beau modèle..heureusement j'ai lu les questions, car j'allais me tromper et arrêter les augmentations à 35cm, ce qui n'est pas logique ! Pourriez-vous le corriger car je pense que l'explication porte à l'erreur . Merci

18.02.2022 - 15:31

country flag Agnieszka wrote:

Dzień dobry. Chciałabym wykonać ten wzór, ale z dodaną drugą nitką Kid-Silk. Czy mogę prosić o dobór koloru/kolorów? Dziękuje i pozdrawiam.

14.06.2021 - 12:23

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Agnieszko, możliwości jest tutaj bez liku. Ja bym dodała kolor 25 albo 38 jeśli już (jeden kolor na cały). W sumie Kid-Silka trochę szkoda na kocyk. Zrobiłabym z niego jakiś ładny sweterek chmurkę (2 nitki razem). Ale oczywiście wybór należy do Ciebie. Koniecznie prześlij zdjęcia gotowych dzieł do naszej galerii albo wstaw na facebooku (grupa DROPS Workshop). Pozdrawiamy!

14.06.2021 - 20:26

country flag Karen wrote:

Hello, I have worked the pattern to 35cm and have started the striped pattern. Following your advice to Christina below I have stopped increasing and now both my edges are knitting up straight and not getting wider on one side as the photograph appears to do. I am using Drops Fabel and knitting to the tension suggested, yet my blanket does seam to be getting wider as In the photograph. Am I doing something wrong? Thank you for your help.

28.11.2020 - 17:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Karen, it looks llike the answer below was wrong - sorry for that, after the piece measures 35 cm you start stripes but you continue working as before (= increase on each side) until piece measures 85 cm (= width of piece) - this video might help you to understand how this kind of blankets are worked (remember to work the stripes as in the pattern). Happy knitting!

30.11.2020 - 08:43

country flag Christina wrote:

I’m sorry to bother you again, but I have another question. When the piece measures 85 cm I begin the decrease/increase. Does that 85 cm include the first 35 when I was increasing at the beginning, or is it 85 cm beyond the first 35? Thank you!

11.04.2020 - 18:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Christina, 85 cm means from the beginning (includes the first 35). Happy knitting!

12.04.2020 - 18:25

country flag Christina wrote:

Am I supposed to stop increasing when the piece reaches 35 cm and continue with the striping without increasing? Thanks for your help!

25.03.2020 - 04:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Christina, Yes, you stop increasing when the piece measures 35 cm and continue working the stripes without further increases. Happy knitting!

25.03.2020 - 07:56

country flag Jen Ann wrote:

Hello, What are the average total rows of this piece using a US 7 Circular Needles? Blessings

02.02.2020 - 03:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Ann, this will depend on your tension in height - in this kind of pattern measurements are more important than number of rows. Happy knitting!

03.02.2020 - 10:01

country flag Martinet wrote:

Bonsoir Après les 35 cm indiqués pour les côtés, est ce que l’on Co toi je les augmentations de la même manière jusqu’à atteindre 85 cm ? Merci d’autre part je souhaite la faire plus large et plus longue, me suffit il de continuer à augmenter jusqu’à la largeur que je souhaite et ensuite commencer l’alternance diminution/augmentation ?

24.11.2019 - 18:58

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Martinet, on continue comme avant (on augmente 1 m de chaque côté) jusqu'à ce que la largeur de la couverture mesure 85 cm; à 35 cm, on commence simplement les rayures. Si vous voulez une couverture plus large, continuez à augmenter jusqu'à la largeur souhaitée pour la couverture - cette vidéo peut vous aider à adapter - rappelez-vous qu'il vous faudra plus de laine. Bon tricot!

25.11.2019 - 10:18

country flag Nathalie élément wrote:

Je ne vois pas les explications pour la section qui est uniquement de couleur naturel au début du travail... pouvez-vous m'indiquer svp?

25.07.2019 - 18:08

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nathalie, tout le debut est en naturel: "Monter 3 m avec l'aiguille circulaire 4.5 en naturel et tricoter 1 côte au POINT MOUSSE – voir ci-dessus, EN MÊME TEMPS, augmenter 1 m au début de chaque rang (à la fois sur l'endroit et sur l'envers) en faisant 1 jeté à 1 m point mousse du bord. Au rang suivant, tricoter le jeté torse à l'end pour éviter les trous. Répéter ces augmentations au début de chaque rang jusqu'à ce que l'ouvrage mesure 35 cm le long des 2 côtés". Bon tricot!

25.07.2019 - 18:33

country flag RAULET wrote:

Bonjour Pour ce modèle la laine est utilisée en double ou pas ? tricot avec numéro 4.5 alors que la laine est avec un numéro 3 . Merci de votre réponse.

07.01.2019 - 21:09

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Raulet, on tricote ici volontairement avec des aiguilles plus large pour obtenir la texture souhaitée. Chacune tricotant différemment, vérifiez bien votre tension et ajustez la taille des aiguilles si besoin, vous devez avoir 20 m x 40 rangs au point mousse avec 1 seul fil = 10 x 10 cm. Bon tricot!

08.01.2019 - 08:58