DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 48.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 162-43
DROPS design: Pattern no ee-520
Yarn group E + E or F
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Measurements: Diameter: Approx. 94 cm
Materials:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
500 g colour no 01, off white
150 g colour no 37, sapphire
150 g colour no 54, medium purple
150 g colour no 35, lime
150 g colour no 26, hot pink
100 g colour no 05, petrol

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 8 mm – or size needed to get 8 dc/tr in width with 2 strands = 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 48.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

STRIPE COLOURS:
Work with 2 strands of each colour.
A.1:
ROUND 1: Petrol
ROUND 2: Sapphire

A.2:
ROUND 1-2: Off white
ROUND 3: Medium purple
ROUND 4: Lime

A.3:
ROUND 1-2: Off white
ROUND 3: Hot pink
ROUND 4: Medium purple
ROUND 5-6: Off white
ROUND 7: Sapphire
ROUND 8: Petrol
ROUND 9: Lime

A.4:
ROUND 1-2: Off white
ROUND 3: Hot pink
ROUND 4: Medium purple
ROUND 5-6: Off white
ROUND 7-8: Sapphire

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc at beg of every dc round with 1 ch. Finish every round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.
Replace first tr at beg of every tr round with 3 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.

COLOUR CHANGE:
Crochet last sl st on the last round with the colours of next round to get a nice colour change.

CROCHET TOG:
Work 2 tr into 1 tr: Work 1 tr but wait with last pull through (= 2 strands on hook), then work next tr but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook.
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CARPET:
Crochet 4 ch on hook size 8 mm with 2 strands petrol and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. READ STRIPE COLOURS. Work either according to diagram or pattern, i.e. work as follows:

Work according to diagram:
Read CROCHET INFO and COLOUR CHANGE! Work A.1 the entire round (= 1 repetition in total), A.2 (= 6 repetitions in total), A.3 (= 12 repetitions in total), finish with A.4 (= 18 repetitions).

Work A.1 as follows:
ROUND 1: READ COLOUR CHANGE. Work 5 ch (= 1 dtr and 1 ch), * 1 dtr in ch-ring, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* 10 more times, finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round = 12 dtr and 12 ch.
ROUND 2: 2 ch (= 1 dc and 1 ch), 2 dc in next ch, 1 ch, 2 dc in next ch *, repeat from *-* 9 more times, work 1 ch, 1 dc in next ch, finish with 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round = 24 dc and 12 ch. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
Work A.2 as follows:
ROUND 1: READ CROCHET INFO! Work * 3 tr in first ch, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 12 tr-groups and 12 ch.
ROUND 2: * 1 tr in each of the next 3 tr, 1 tr in next ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 48 tr.
ROUND 3: * 1 dc in each of the first 3 tr, 2 dc in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 60 dc.
ROUND 4: * work 2 tr into 1 tr in first dc – READ CROCHET TOG, 3 ch, skip 1 dc, work 2 tr into 1 tr in next dc, skip 2 dc, work 2 tr into 1 tr in next dc, 3 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 tr-groups and 24 ch-spaces.
Work A.3 as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 3 dc in every ch-space the entire round = 72 dc.
ROUND 2: * 1 tr in each of the first 3 dc, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 72 tr and 24 ch-spaces.
ROUND 3: * 3 ch, 2 dc in first ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 ch-spaces and 48 dc.
ROUND 4: * 4 tr in first ch-space, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 tr-groups and 24 ch-spaces.
ROUND 5: * 5 ch, 1 dc in first ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 ch-spaces and 24 dc.
ROUND 6: * 5 dc in first ch-space, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 120 dc and 24 ch.
ROUND 7: * work 2 tr into 1 tr in first dc, 2 ch, skip 1 dc, work 2 tr into 1 tr in next dc, 2 ch, skip 1 dc, work 2 tr into 1 tr in next dc, 2 ch skip 1 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 72 tr-groups and 72 ch-spaces.
ROUND 8: * 2 ch, 1 dc in first ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 72 dc and 72 ch-spaces.
ROUND 9: * 2 tr in first ch-space, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 72 tr-groups and 24 ch-spaces.
ROUND 10: * 4 tr in first ch, 2 ch, skip 2 tr + 1 ch + 2 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 tr-groups and 36 ch-spaces.
Work A.4 as follows:
ROUND 1: Work * 5 ch, 1 dc in first ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 ch-spaces and 36 dc.
ROUND 2: * 5 dc in first ch-space, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 180 dc and 36 ch.
ROUND 3: * work 2 tr into 1 tr in first dc, 1 ch, skip 1 dc, work 2 tr into 1 tr in next dc, 1 ch, work 2 tr into 1 tr in next dc, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 108 tr and 108 ch-spaces.
ROUND 4: * 1 dc in first ch, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 108 dc and 108 ch.
ROUND 5: * 1 tr in first dc, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 108 tr and 108 ch-spaces.
ROUND 6: ** 1 tr + 2 ch + 1 tr in first ch-space, 2 ch, * 1 tr in next ch-space, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* 4 more times **, repeat from **-** the entire round = 126 tr and 126 ch-spaces.
ROUND 7: * 1 dc in first ch-space, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 126 dc and 126 ch-spaces.
ROUND 8: * 1 dc in first ch-space, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 126 dc and 126 ch-spaces.
Fasten off. Carpet measures approx. 97 cm in diameter.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 17.08.2015
Correction: New text on 4th round of A.2.
Updated online: 31.05.2017
ROUND 7: * work 2 tr into 1 tr in first dc, 2 ch, skip 1 dc, work 2 tr into 1 tr in next dc, 2 ch, skip 1 dc, work 2 tr into 1 tr in next dc, 2 ch, skip 1 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 72 tr-groups and 72 ch-spaces.
Updated online: 25.01.2019
Correction - A.3: ROUND 7: * work 2 dc into 1 dc in first sc, ch 2, skip 1 dc, work 2 dc into 1 dc in next sc, ch 2, skip 1 dc, work 2 dc into 1 dc in next sc, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 72 dc-groups and 72 ch-spaces.

Diagram

symbols = ch
symbols = dc around st
symbols = dc in st
symbols = tr around st
symbols = tr in st
symbols = dtr around st
symbols = Work 2 tr into 1 tr: Work 1 tr but wait with
last pull through (= 2
strands on hook), then work next
tr in same st but on last
pull through, pull yarn
through all sts on hook.
symbols = 1 sl st in 4th/1st ch at beg of round
symbols = shows last round on A.3
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (34)

country flag Arela Santiago wrote:

Por favor dígame ¿donde puedo comprar estos hilos drops snow aquí en Perú?y que significa obtener 8 p.b/p.a de ancho? gracias

04.07.2021 - 16:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Arela. No tenemos tiendas en Perú. Puedes comprar las lanas en los siguientes tiendas con envíos internacionales: https://www.garnstudio.com/findastore.php?s=w&cid=23

04.07.2021 - 16:07

country flag Rose-Marie Björkan wrote:

Hej! Tänkte bara höra innan jag börjar, går det att följa beskrivningen utan diagram? Jag klarar inte av diagram. Mvh Rosie

30.06.2020 - 12:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Rose-Marie, Ja du kan virka enligt beskrivning eller diagram :)

02.07.2020 - 10:57

country flag Gudrun Skjæveland wrote:

Hei! A3, omgang 7: * 2 st hekles sm til 1 st i første fm, 2 lm, hopp over 1 fm, 2 st hekles sm til 1 st i neste fm, 2 lm, 2 st hekles sm til 1 st i neste fm, 2 lm *, - skal det ikkje hoppast over fastmaske mellom kvar samanhekla stav (altså under luftmaskene)? Ser slik ur på diagrammet? Kan de endra dette i teksten om det er feil? Måtte ta opp igjen dette fleire gonger då det ikkje passa.

18.01.2019 - 16:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Gudrun. Diagrammet er rikitg: du skal hoppe over 1 fastmaske mellom hver stavgruppe på 7 omgang. Vi har nå rettet dette i teksten også. Takk for beskjed og god fornøyelse

25.01.2019 - 14:42

Lena wrote:

Har noen prøvd å tove dette teppet?

04.11.2018 - 20:21

country flag Stine Sofie Finholt wrote:

Omg. 7 på A.3 og A.4 er lik i oppskriften, og stemmer ikke med A.4 i diagrammet. Her skal det vel være fastmasker og luftmasker?

18.08.2018 - 11:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Stine Sofie, Omgang 7 på A.3 og A.4 er ganske like med ikke helt det samme. Du skal hoppe over 1 fm og 1 lm i A.4 som man ikke gjør i A.3. God fornøyelse!

21.08.2018 - 08:01

country flag Bettina wrote:

Liebes Drops Team, Ich möchte mich der Frage von Frau Wagner anschließen. Laut der häkelschrift/dem Diagramm zu A3 Runde 7 wird nach den 2 LM IMMER 1 Fm bzw. die LM der Vorrunde übersprungen. Nach der geschriebenen Anleitung ist das nicht so. Ich meine auch, dass eher die häkelschrift stimmt. Oder? Danke und viele Grüße

30.05.2017 - 22:55

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Bettina, es stimmt ja, danke für den Hinweis, Texte wird geprüft und korrigiert. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

31.05.2017 - 08:44

country flag Monika Wagner wrote:

A3 Reihe 7 Hier sollte nach jeder Büschelmasche eine Masche übersprungen werden, wie es die Häkelschrift zeigt, oder?

25.12.2016 - 21:29

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Wagner, Reihe 7 in A.3 wird so gehäkelt: * in der nächsten fM 2 Stb zu einem Stb zushäkeln, 2 Lm, 1 fM überspringen, in der nächsten fM 2 Stb zu einem Stb zushäkeln, 2 Lm, in der nächsten fM 2 Stb zu einem Stb zushäkeln, 2 Lm *, von *-* bis Rd-Ende wdh = 72 Stb-Gruppen und 72 Lm-Bögen.Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

02.01.2017 - 09:27

country flag Marthe Lene Hestnes wrote:

Jeg skjønner ikke hvordan i omgang 6, A4 at det kan økes fra 108 luftmaskebuer til 126 luftmaskebuer? Når man går fra * til ** 4 ganger? Og deretter fra ** til **. Vil ikke det da økes flere enn 18 luftmaskebuer?

22.04.2016 - 12:39

country flag Caroline Kölln wrote:

Ein schöner Teppich, abwechslungsreich zu häkeln. Ich habe ihn einfarbig weiss gemacht. Genau so schön wie der bunte. Vielen Dank für die tollen Anleitungen.

17.03.2016 - 11:32

country flag Filippa wrote:

Perfekt till min dotters rum. Hur ljuvlig som helst. Aldrig gjort något av detta garn ej heller virkat något annat än mormorsrutor. Men nu ska här virkas! Tack för inspirationen.

25.01.2016 - 11:09