DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.75 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 1.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Baby 21-42
DROPS design: Pattern no W-017-BN
Yarn group C
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Measurements: approx. height 22 cm
Materials: DROPS PARIS
100 g colour no 17, off white
Some left-over yarn colour no 06, shocking pink
Some left-over yarn colour no 20, light pink
Some left-over yarn colour no 33, medium pink
Some left-over yarn colour no 15, black

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 16 dc = width 10 cm.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 mm - for flower and ears.
Accessories: Some cotton wool for filling

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.75 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 1.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
MAGIC CIRCLE:
When piece is worked in the round, start with this technique to avoid holes in the middle (instead of ch-ring): Hold the yarn end and wind the yarn one time around the index finger to make a loop. Hold the loop with left thumb and middle finger, place the thread over left index finger. Insert hook through the loop, make a YO and pull thread through loop, work 1 ch, then work dc around the loop. When the desired no of dc have been reached, pull the yarn end to tighten the loop. Fasten the yarn end on the back side. Continue to work in the round in a circle.
WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE:
After last dc on the round, continue to next round with 1 dc in next dc (= first dc on next round). NOTE: Insert a marker at the beg of round between last dc and first dc on the round, move the marker upwards.
WORKING 2 DC TOG:
* Insert hook in next st, get thread *, repeat from *-* one more time, make a YO and pull thread through all 3 sts on hook.
COLOUR CHANGE - DC:
To get a nice colour change work last dc on round as follows: Insert hook in last st, get thread, make a YO with the new colour and pull it through all sts on hook. Continue on to next round with the new colour.
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HEAD:
Start at the top of the head by making a Magic circle - READ EXPLANATION ABOVE - on hook size 4 mm with Paris off white.
ROUND 1: Work 8 dc in the circle. READ WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE.
ROUND 2: 2 dc in every dc = 16 dc.
ROUND 3: * 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 24 dc.
ROUND 4: * 1 dc in the next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 32 dc.
ROUND 5: Work 1 dc in every dc = 32 dc.
ROUND 6: * 1 dc in the next 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 40 dc.
ROUND 7: Work 1 dc in every dc = 40 dc.
ROUND 8: * 1 dc in the next 4 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 48 dc.
ROUND 9-12: Work 1 dc in every dc = 48 dc on the round.
ROUND 13: * 1 dc in the next 6 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog * - See explanation above, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 42 dc.
ROUND 14: * 1 dc in the next 5 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 36 dc.
ROUND 15: Work 1 dc in every dc = 36 dc.
ROUND 16: * 1 dc in the next 4 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 30 dc.
ROUND 17: Work 1 dc in every dc = 30 dc.
ROUND 18: * 1 dc in the next 3 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 24 dc.
ROUND 19: * 1 dc in the next 2 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 18 dc.
ROUND 20: * 1 dc in next dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 12 dc.
Cut and fasten the thread. Fill the head with some cotton wool.

BODY:
Start at the bottom of body by making a magic circle in shocking pink.
ROUND 1: Work 6 dc in the circle.
ROUND 2: 2 dc in every dc = 12 dc.
ROUND 3: * 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 18 dc. Switch to light pink in last dc - READ COLOUR CHANGE - DC.
ROUND 4: * 1 dc in the next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 24 dc - switch to shocking pink in last dc.
ROUND 5: * 1 dc in the next 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 30 dc. Switch to light pink in last dc.
ROUND 6: * 1 dc in the next 4 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 36 dc. Switch to shocking pink in last dc.
ROUND 7: Work 1 dc in every dc = 36 dc. Switch to light pink in last dc.
ROUND 8: Work 1 dc in every dc = 36 dc. Switch to shocking pink in last dc.
ROUND 9: Work as 7th round.
ROUND 10: Work as 8th round.
ROUND 11: Work as 7th round - but switch to off white instead of light pink in last dc.
ROUND 12-13: Work 1 dc in every dc = 36 dc on the round.
ROUND 14: * 1 dc in the next 4 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 30 dc.
ROUND 15-16: Work 1 dc in every dc = 30 dc on the round.
ROUND 17: * 1 dc in the next 3 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 24 dc.
ROUND 18-19: Work 1 dc in every dc = 24 dc on the round.
ROUND 20: * 1 dc in the next 2 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 18 dc.
ROUND 21: Work 1 dc in every dc = 18 dc.
ROUND 22: * 1 dc in next dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 12 dc.
Cut the thread and keep 30 cm for assembly. Fill the body with some cotton wool.

LEG:
Start at the bottom of leg by making a magic circle in medium pink.
ROUND 1: Work 4 dc in the circle.
ROUND 2: 2 dc in every dc = 8 dc.
ROUND 3-4: Work 1 dc in every dc = 8 dc on round - switch to off white in last dc on 4TH ROUND.
ROUND 5-18: Work 1 dc in every dc = 8 dc on the round.
Cut the thread and keep 20 cm for assembly. Fill leg with some cotton wool. Work another leg the same way.

ARM:
Start at the bottom of arm by making a magic circle in medium pink on hook size 4 mm. Work as ROUND 1-4 for leg.
ROUND 5: Work 1 dc in the next 6 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog = 7 dc.
ROUND 6-15: Work 1 dc in every dc = 7 dc on the round.
Cut the thread and keep 20 cm for assembly. Fill half the arm with some cotton wool. Work another arm the same way.

TAIL:
Start by making a magic circle with light pink on hook size 4 mm.
ROUND 1: Work 4 dc in the circle.
ROUND 2: 2 dc in every dc = 8 dc.
ROUND 3-4: Work 1 dc in every dc = 8 dc on the round.
Cut the thread and keep 20 cm for assembly (do not fill with cotton wool).

EAR:
Start at the bottom of the ear by making 8 ch (7 ch + 1 ch to turn with) on hook size 3 mm with off white.
ROW 1: Work 1 dc in every ch from 2nd ch on hook = 7 dc. Turn piece.
ROW 2-8: 1 ch, 1 dc in every dc, turn piece = 7 dc on row.
ROW 9: 1 ch, skip 1st dc, 1 dc in the next 4 dc, skip next dc, 1 dc in last dc = 5 dc. Turn piece.
ROW 10: 1 ch, 1 dc in every dc = 5 dc. Turn piece.
ROW 11: 1 ch, skip 1st dc, 1 dc in the next 2 dc, skip next dc, 1 dc in last dc = 3 dc. Turn piece.
ROW 12: 1 ch, skip 1st dc, work the next 2 dc tog = 1 dc.
Cut and fasten the thread. Work another ear the same way.

FLOWER:
Work on hook size 3 mm with shocking pink as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 4 ch and form a ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch. Work 1 ch, then work 6 dc in ch-ring, finish round and switch to light pink as follows: Insert hook in 1st dc on round, make a YO with light pink and pull the new thread through all sts on hook.
ROUND 2: * Work 4 ch, 1 sl st in next dc from 1st round *. Repeat from *-* a total of 5 times. Then work 4 ch, finish round and switch to shocking pink as follows: Insert hook in 1st dc on 1st round, make a YO with shocking pink and pull the new thread through all sts on hook = 6 leaves in light pink.
ROUND 3: * Work 5 ch, fold next leaf from 2ND ROUND towards you and work on the back of the leaf as follows: Insert hook in next dc from 1st round (to the right of sl st from 2nd round), 1 sl st *. Repeat from *-* a total of 5 times, finish with 5 ch and 1 sl st in 1st dc from 1st round = 6 leaves in shocking pink. Cut the thread and keep 20 cm for assembly.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the bottom of the ears on the middle and sew on to the head. Sew the flower below one ear. Sew a cross for nose with medium pink and eyes with black. Sew the head on to body with neat little stitches.
Sew the legs and the arms on to each side of body with neat little stitches. Sew the tail to the back of body.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS Baby 21-42

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Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Pia wrote:

Vad betyder * i era mönster? Är det multiplicera som menas? Bättre att ni skriver ut i stället för att använda förkortningar. Tex OMG etc..

02.01.2023 - 15:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Pia. När vi använder *-* i texten, stickar man det som står mellan stjärnorna och stickar denna repetition det antal gånger som står i mönstret. Så når det står i oppskriften: * Stick in nålen i nästa m, hämta tråden *, upprepa *-* en gång till, så gjør du det som er markert mellom stjernene en gang til. Les gjerne mer om hvordan du leser en DROPS oppskrift under: Tips & Hjälp - DROPS lektioner - Läs ett mönster. Les også under: Tips & Hjälp - Ordbok. mvh DROPS Design

06.01.2023 - 08:22

country flag Maria Eriksson wrote:

Hej, jag har beställt garn till Petrine-vest och fått mönster på norska. Skulle om möjligt vilja ha det på svenska. Mvh Maria

31.03.2022 - 20:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Maria, Är det ett DROPS mönster? I så fall är det bara att ändra språk till svenska under bilden :)

04.04.2022 - 11:41

country flag Eve Woods wrote:

I would like the pattern of Odin Bunny. How do I get that?

11.02.2021 - 00:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Woods, you will find our bunny patterns here if this can help. You are welcome to contact your DROPS store for any further individual assistance. Happy crocheting!

11.02.2021 - 06:50

country flag Jane wrote:

Found someone selling this pattern on Etsy Seller: Souvenirstoys

01.02.2019 - 07:39

country flag Jessica wrote:

Ce n'est pas Patty mais Pippa. Cdlt,

02.12.2017 - 15:22

country flag Jessica wrote:

Bonjour, Je vous informe que vous avez deux fois le même patron en ligne : miss mew et patty. A bientot

02.12.2017 - 15:21

country flag Patricia wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends rien aux explications concernant la fleur ? Pouvez-vous m'aider s'il vous plaît ? Avec mes remerciements

23.02.2015 - 08:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Patricia, on commence par un rond de 6 ms, on ferme ce rond avec l'autre couleur (pour que le changement de couleur soit plus joli), puis on crée les pétales avec 4 ml, 1 mc dans la ms suiv tout le tour, on termine le tour avec 1 mc dans la 1ère ms (du tour 1) avec la nouvelle couleur. On crochète ensuite des arceaux de 5 ml, 1 mc dans la ms du tour 1 en piquant le crochet derrière la 1ère rangée de pétales. Bon crochet!

23.02.2015 - 14:08

country flag Lotte W S wrote:

Tak for mange gode opskrifter og hjælp! Mener ikke at antallet af masker angivet i slutningen af hver række kan stemme overens med fremgangsmåden. Har man 24 masker og tilføjer en maske til hver 2. må man få 12 masker mere, dvs. 36 og ikke 32. Skal jeg ende med 36 eller blot tilføje en maske til hver 3.? Tak på forhånd :)

17.11.2014 - 10:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lotte, Er det 4.omg på hovedet du mener, så står der således: 4.OMG: * 1 fm i næste 2 fm, 2 fm i næste fm *, gentag fra *-* omg rundt = 32 fm. det vil sige udtagning i hver 3.

25.11.2014 - 15:18

country flag Christina Truetsch wrote:

Hallo! Ich verstehe nicht ganz wie das mit dem Schwanz gemeint ist: ich soll unten am Körper mit einem Magic Circle beginnen, soll ich den gleich annähen? Und das wird ja ein Kreis, wie soll der dann ausschauen? Wie ein Bommel oder wird der Kreis flach aufgenäht? Vielen Dank für ihre Hilfe!

16.10.2013 - 09:59

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Christina, der Anfang des Schwanzes mit dem Magic Circle ist nicht zum Körper zu, sondern aussen. Nähen Sie den Kreis dann flach (und ungefüllt) mit der letzten Rd zum Körper an.

17.10.2013 - 07:07

country flag Stefania wrote:

è possibile fare i modelli gratis in versione pdf ? grazie mille

08.06.2013 - 15:40

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno, i modelli non sono disponibili in versione pdf; in ogni modello è presente comunque il bottone per la stampa, cliccando quello apparirà una finestra con la versione stampabile del modello. In alternativa è possibile comunque selezionare il testo e copiarlo su un foglio di testo, se vuole conservarlo. Buon lavoro!

09.06.2013 - 18:28