DROPS Ull-Flamé
DROPS Ull-Flamé
100% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Puddel
DROPS Puddel
94% Mohair, 6% Polyester
Discontinued
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DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 92-20
Cardigan:

Size: S – M – L – XL - XXL

Materials: DROPS Ull-Flamé from Garnstudio
(alternative Snow from Garnstudio)
600-650-700-750-850 g colour no 23, Black
and use: DROPS Puddel from Garnstudio
50 g colour no 08, Charcoal grey (for the edges)

Drops Crochet Hook size 10 mm

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Ull-Flamé
DROPS Ull-Flamé
100% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Puddel
DROPS Puddel
94% Mohair, 6% Polyester
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CARDIGAN:

Crochet Gauge: 6,5 dtr x 3 rows on hook size 10 = 10 x 10 cm.
NB: Because of different crochet techniques used by the individual, the gauge may vary, so you might have to drop a size up or down in hook size to obtain the correct gauge.

Crochet info: At the beginning of each row replace the 1st dtr with 4 ch. Finish each row as follows: Crochet 1 dtr in the 4th ch from beginning of the previous row.

Bind off tips: At the beginning of row: Replace 1 dtr with a sl st. At the end of row: Turn the piece when the number of dtr’s to be bound off are left on row and crochet back again.

Back piece: Read Crochet info above! Crochet loosely 34-38-42-46-50 ch (inclusive of the 4 ch to turn with) on hook size 10 in Ull-Flame’. Crochet the 1st row as follows: 1 dtr in the 5th ch from the hook, 1dtr in the next ch *skip 1ch, 1 dtr in the next 3 ch* repeat from *-* = 24-27-30-33-36 dtr, turn the piece. Continue to crochet 1 dtr in each dtr from previous row (crochet into the dtr and not in between). Remember to check your Crochet gauge! When piece measures approx 12 and 26 cm inc a dtr at each side as follows: Crochet an extra dtr in the second and the second but last dtr on row = 28-31-34-37-40 dtr. When piece measures approx 39-40-41-42-43 cm bind off for armhole ewither side – see Bind off tips, as follows: 2dtr 1-1-1-2-2 times and 1 dtr 0-1-2-1-2 times = 24-25-26-27-28 dtr left. When piece measures 55-57-59-61-63 cm (only 1 row left before finished measurements) crochet 1 row of dtr but only in the outer most 9-9-9-10-10 dtr at each side (do not crochet the centre 6-7-8-7-8 dtr = back neck. Cut thread, the piece now measures approx 58-60-62-64-66 cm.

Left front: Crochet loosely 19-22-23-26-27 ch (inclusive of the 4 ch to turn with) on hook size 10 in Ull-Flame’. Crochet the 1st row as follows: 1 dtr in the 5th ch from the hook, 1dtr in the next ch *skip 1ch, 1 dtr in the next 3 ch* repeat from *-* but for size S + L + XXL finish with a dtr in the last 4 ch (instead of the last 3 ch) = 13-15-16-18-19 dtr, turn the piece. Continue to crochet dtr as described for back piece. When piece measures approx 17-20-20-23-23 cm inc at centre mid front, 1 dtr on each row a total of 9 times. NB: Inc as follows: Crochet an extra dtr in the second outer most dtr at the centre front. At the same time when piece measures approx. 19 and 33 cm (instead of 12 and 26 cm) inc. as described for back piece. At the same time, when piece measures approx 39-40-41-42-43 cm bind off for armhole as described for back. When all dec. and inc. have been made, there are 22-23-23-24-24 dtr left on row. When piece measures 48-50-52-54-56 cm (after the last inc at the centre front) bind off the centre front 13-14-14-14-14 dtr – see Bind off tips = 9-9-9-10-10 dtr left for shoulder. Continue to crochet until piece measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66 cm. Cut thread.

Right front: Crochet as left front but reverse.

Sleeve: Crochet loosely 27-27-28-28-30 ch (inclusive of the 4 ch to turn with) on hook size 10 in Ull-Flame’. Crochet the 1st row as follows: 1 dtr in the 5th ch from the hook, 1dtr in the next ch *skip 1 ch, 1 dtr in the next 3 ch* repeat from *-* but for size S + M finish off with a dtr in the last 4 ch (instead of the last 3 ch), and size L + XL finish off with a dtr in the last 5 ch = 19-19-20-20-21 dtr, turn the piece. Continue to crochet dtr as done on back and front pieces. At the same time on the 3rd row of dtr bind off 2 dtr evenly distributed on row – NB: To bind off 1 dtr just miss 1 dtr from previous row. Repeat at row 6 = 15-15-16-16-17 dtr left. On the next row (the piece now measures approx 20 cm) inc. 1 dtr at each side a total of 3-4-4-5-5 times for size S: on every 3rd row, for size M + L: on every other row and for size XL + XXL: on each row = 21-23-24-26-27 dtr. When piece measures approx 49-47-47-47-44 cm bind off for sleeve cap at each side on every row: 3 dtr 1 time, 2 dtr 1 time and 1 dtr 0-1-1-1-2 times. Finish off when the piece measures 56-57-57-57-57 cm. Make another sleeve.

Assembly: Crochet the shoulder seams tog. as follows: Crochet 1 sl st. in the first dtr on the back, 1 ch, 1 dc in the first dtr on the front, 1 ch, 1 dc in the next dtr on the back and so on.
Hood: On the first row crochet 18 -22 dc around the collar – beginning 13-14-14-14-14 dtr in from the right centre mid front (= overlap) and continue until there are 13-14-14-14-14 dtr left on left centre mid front (= overlap). NB: This dc row is meant to keep the collar tight together so it will not expand. It is therefore a good idea to crochet a little tight and to skip 1 dtr every now and again -make sure the collar measurements corresponds the measurements in chart. Continue to crochet dtr forwards and backwards from the centre mid front (do not crochet at the outer most 13-14-14-14-14 dtr at each side which overlap each other). At the same time, after 1 row of dtr, inc evenly on row to 30-32-32-34-34 dtr. On next row bind off 1 dtr at each side = 26-28-28-30-30 dtr. Continue until the hood measures 30-33-33-36-36 cm from the shoulder and finish off. Crochet the hood together at the top the same way the shoulders were crochet together. Crochet in the sleeves the same way and finally crochet the side and the sleeves seams together the same way too.

Crochet edge: Crochet an edge around all edges including the bottom sleeve edges on crochet hook size 10 with double thread of puddel as follows: 1dc in the first st, *3 ch, skip 2-3 cm (the edge should be nice and straight not wavy), 1 dc in the next st.* repeat from *-*. The cardigan can be held together with a string or a kilt pin.





BAG:

Measurements:
Before felting: width approx 30 cm, length 34 cm
After felting: width approx 23 cm, lenght 28 cm

Materials:
Puddel, 150 g colour no. 08, Charcoal grey
Snow, 150 g colour no. 02, Black

Drops pointed needles size 7 mm.

Knitting Gauge: 10 sts x 14 rows on needles size 7mm in stocking sts. = 10 x10 cm

Felting: Machine wash bag at 40 deg. with 1 tbls of powder. For a more rough surface wash the bag together with a pair of jeans. After wash, shape and leave to dry flat.

Bag: Cast on 30 sts on 2 needles size 7 mm with puddel (2 needles make the edge more elastic). Remove one needle and continue in stocking sts. When piece measures 68cm bind off loosely.

Assembly: Sew the side seams and felt the bag in the washing machine – see explanation above.
Strap: Cut 18 threads of Snow each 2.5 m long. Make a knot approx 18 cm from one end. Split the threads into 3 groups of 6 threads and make a loose plait. Finish approx 18 cm from the other end and make another knot. Sew the strap to the bag at each side. Let the end piece be a little longer on one side than the other side, i.e. some of the plait is hanging down too.
Pom-poms: Make 3 pom-poms with Snow yarn. The pom-poms should be 9-10 cm in diameter. Attach the pom-poms to the bag where the strap is attached.

Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (9)

country flag Rina wrote:

Wat een leuk vest! Wel heb ik nog een vraag. Waar betekent de afkorting "tr"?

04.05.2019 - 11:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Rina,

tr staat voor toer. Veel haakplezier!

05.05.2019 - 16:30

country flag Nadine wrote:

Bonjour, il me semble qu'il y a erreurs pour " le devant" de 10 cm entre les explications en français versus en anglais ou italien.... voici en francais: "A 17-20-20-23-23 cm de hauteur totale, augmenter 1 DB côté milieu devant 9 fois tous les rangs en crochetant 2 DB dans l’avant dernière m du bord" Tandis que les autres langues mentionnent 10 et 13 cm. Quelle explication est la bonne ???? Merci

21.03.2018 - 01:36

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nadine, les explications françaises sont conformes à l'original (norvégien), les autres langues vont être vérifiées. Bon crochet!

21.03.2018 - 09:19

Mara Velazco wrote:

Gracias por compartir todos los patrones!!! todos los trabajos son hermosos !!!❤

13.03.2018 - 03:47

country flag Sheryl wrote:

So for the back piece when you are doing the final row it says to tr 10 on both sides leaving the middle 8 unworked but it does not tell you to bind off after 10 then reconnect and do the last 10, so is the innermost tr of the 10 suspose to attach to the other innermost tr on the other side leaving a round opening where the unworked tr's are? Or are we suspose to do 8 chains between the 10 tr's on one side and the other?

04.02.2016 - 18:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sheryl, this is done for shoulders: you work 1 row over the first 10 tr on row (= 1st shoulder), then cut the yarn, skip the 8 next sts on previous row (neckline on back piece), join the yarn in the next st and work the next (last) 10 tr on row (= 2nd shoulder). Happy crocheting!

05.02.2016 - 09:39

country flag Claire Shepherd wrote:

Please can you tell me if I need to chain 1 in between each dtr on back piece after the first row where the pattern says crotchet 1 dtr in each dtr from previous row?

10.01.2014 - 11:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Shepherd, there is no ch 1 between each dtr on back piece, neither on row 1, you start on the fundation chain with 1 dtr in the 5th ch from the hook, 1 dtr in the next ch *skip 1ch, 1 dtr in the next 3 ch* repeat from *-* = 24-27-30-33-36 dtr (see size). Continue then with 1 dtr in each dtr from previous row. Happy crocheting!

10.01.2014 - 14:51

country flag Shikoba wrote:

Ich verstehe den letzten Abschnitt des Ärmels nicht ganz. Werden auf jeder Seite 3 D-Stb abgenommen? Sind dann nach allen Abnahmen in Gr. S noch 11 D-Stb übrig? Muss man nach 49 cm noch 2 oder 3 Reihen häkeln? Danke vorab

04.12.2012 - 18:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hallo, für Grösse S wird 3 x in jeder 3. R auf beiden Seiten 1 M aufgenommen = 21 M. Für die angedeutete Armkugel war nicht deutlich beschrieben, wir haben dies jetzt etwas verbessert.

05.12.2012 - 07:42

country flag Carmela wrote:

Tolle Jacke!

24.06.2011 - 11:26

country flag Drops Design wrote:

The tip is telling to work a slip st in first st instead of a tr and this way you will dec 1 st. At the end of the row you don't work the last st on row, but turn before it, to dec 1 st. To dec 2 sts work 2 sl st in beg of row and turn when 2 sts remains on row.

20.11.2009 - 18:49

country flag Toni wrote:

Im having trouble understanding the bind off tips on the back piece. the directions are unclear to me.

20.11.2009 - 06:51