DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 41.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 27-6
Size: Size: Small (Medium - Large)

Materials: DROPS Karisma Superwash from Garnstudio
850 (900-950) g colour no 019, natural

DROPS circular needles and double pointed needles sizes 2.5 mm and 4 mm

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 41.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 22 sts x 28 rows on needle size 4 mm and M.2. = 10 x 10 cm

Bobble: Inc to 5 sts in 1 sts, knit 3 rows stocking sts on these, then pass 2nd sts over 1st sts, 3rd sts over 1st sts., 4th sts over 1st sts and 5th sts over 1st sts.
Rib: * K1, P1 *

Body: Cast on 210 (213-219) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm and knit 5 rib rounds. Change to circular needle size 4 mm at the same time inc 46 (57-61) sts evenly on 1st row = 256 (270-280) sts. Knit 1st row as follows: * 1 (5-7) sts of M.2, M.4, 19 sts of M.2, M.4, 19 sts of M.2, M.4, 19 sts of M.2, M.4, 19 sts of M.2, M.4, 1 (4-7) sts of M.2 * - Repeat from *-* over back piece. Remember knitting tension. When piece measures 38 (44-50) cm cast off 1 (2-1) sts on each side for armhole and for and complete front and back pieces separately.

Front piece: = 127 (133-139) sts. When piece measures 55 (61-67) cm cast off 1 sts mid front and then cast off 1 sts x 23 towards neck to shape neckline alternating on every and every other row . Cast off when piece measures 68 (74-80) cm

Back piece: = 127 (133-139) sts. When piece measures 66 (72-78) cm slip middle 43 (43-43) sts onto a thread or stitch holder and then cast off 2 sts towards neck on next row. Cast off when piece measures 68 (74-80) cm.

Sleeve: Cast on 48 (48-51) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm and knit 5 cm rib. Change to circular needle size 4 mm at the same time inc 20 (20-17) sts evenly on 1st row = 68 (68-68) sts. Knit next row as follows (from mid under arm): M.4, 19 sts of M.2, M.4, 19 sts of M.2, M.4. At the same time inc mid under arm 2 sts x 32 (32-32) on every 3rd row = 132 (132-132) sts – knit the inc sts into M.2. When piece measures 45 (45-44) cm cast off 6 sts mid under arm and continuing cast off 6 sts x 5 times on each side on every other row, then cast off - piece measures approx 49 (49-48) cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Pick up 130 sts around neck on double pointed needles size 2.5 with natural and knit 14 cm rib at the same time cast off 6 sts distributed evenly from the picked up sts from thread or stitch holder on back piece = 124 m – ensure sts mid front is a stocking sts. At the same time as 1st row rib knit one bobble on every 6th sts (in one knit) – ensure one bobble is positioned mid front. Continuing cast off on every 3rd row as follows: slip middle sts onto cable needle to front of piece, knit sts before and sts after and psso mid sts over the 2 sts knit tog – cast off when to completed measurement = 14 cm, cast off. Sew sleeves onto body in outermost sts so seams are not too bulky.

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DROPS Shawl, gloves and head band.

Materials: DROPS Karisma Superwash from Garnstudio
550 g colour no 019, natural - shawl
100 g colour no 019, natural - gloves
50 g colour no 019, natural – head band

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DROPS Shawl:

DROPS Needles size 4 mm

Knitting tension: 22 sts x 28 rows on needle size 4 mm and M.2. = 10 x 10 cm
Bobble: Inc to 5 sts in 1 sts, knit 3 rows stocking sts on these, on 5th row pass 2nd sts over 1st sts, 3rd sts over 1st sts., 4th sts over 1st sts and 5th sts over 1st sts.
Moss stitch: 1st row: K1, P1.
2nd row: knit K over P and P over K. Repeat 1st and 2nd rows continuously.
Rib: * K1, P1 *

Body: Cast on 99 sts on needle size 4 mm with natural and knit 3 rows moss stitch. Next row as follows: 3 sts moss stitch , M.1, 20 sts of M.2, M.3, 20 sts of M.2, M.1, 3 sts moss stitch. Continue in pattern until piece measures 2.3 to 2.4 meters – adjust finish with M.3 as started (- When M.3 get wider knit less sts from M.2 on each side) – complete with 3 rows moss stitch over all sts and cast off.
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DROPS Gloves:

DROPS double pointed needle size 3 mm.

Bobble: Inc to 5 sts in 1 sts, knit 3 rows stocking sts on these, then pass 2nd sts over 1st sts, 3rd sts over 1st sts., 4th sts over 1st sts and 5th sts over 1st sts.
Moss stitch: 1.9: K1, P1.
2nd row: knit K over P and P over K. Repeat 1st and 2nd rows continuously.
Rib: * K1, P1 *

Gloves: Cast on 60 (60) on double pointed needles size 3 mm and knit 2 rounds moss stitch then knit following needle as follows: * 4 sts moss stitch, 1 bobble * then 5 cm moss stitch, then 2 cm rib at the same time cast off 18 (16) sts evenly on 1st row = 42 (44) sts. On last row inc 2 (4) sts evenly on row = 44 (48) sts. Then knit following row as follows: 22 (24) sts moss stitch (=upper hand), 1 sts stocking sts for thumb (insert at marking thread or stitch marker), 21 (23) sts stocking sts (=inside hand)- Measure piece from here!
When piece measures 1 cm inc on each side of 1 sts with marking thread or stitch marker for thumb as follows: 1 sts x 5 (6) on every 3rd row = 54 (60) sts – stocking sts the inc sts. Slip middle 11 sts over thumb onto a thread or stitche holder on next row cast on 1 new st over these = 44 (50) sts.
Continue until piece measures 10 (11) cm – Now knit fingers as follows:
Little finger: Pick up 4 (6) sts moss stitch and 4 (5) sts stocking sts and cast on 1 sts between fingers (stocking sts this sts) = 9 (12) sts. Knit 5 (6) cm then knit sts tog two by two, and then pull double thread through sts. Knit 3 rounds over remaining sts before knitting remaining fingers.
Ring finger: Pick up 6 (6) sts moss stitch and 6 (7) sts stocking sts and cast on 1 sts between fingers (stocking sts this sts) = 14 (15) sts. Knit 6 (7) cm then knit sts tog two by two, and then pull double thread through sts.
Middle finger: Like Ring finger but knit 7 (8) cm.
Index finger: Pick up 6 (6) sts moss stitch and 6 (7) sts stocking sts and cast on in sts towards long finger (knit sts stocking sts) = 13 (14) sts. Knit like Ring finger.
Thumb: Pick up 14 (16) sts round thumb (pick up 11 sts from holder and 3 (5) sts in the edge above), and knit 6 (6,5) cm stocking sts, cast off like Ring finger.
Sew a small mattress sts between fingers.
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DROPS Head band:

DROPS needles size 4 mm

Head band:
Cast on 23 sts on needle size 4 mm and knit 1st row as follows: 2 sts moss stitch, M.1, 2 sts moss stitches. Continue until piece measures approx 54 cm (lightly stretched), cast off. Sew tog with mattress sts.

Diagram

symbols = bobble – see pattern
symbols = purl
symbols = knit
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle to back of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle to front of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle to back of piece, K3, K2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle to front of piece, K2, K3 from cable needle
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (20)

country flag Josiane wrote:

Merci beaucoup pour cette super réponse! Par contre, si je fais ce que vous suggérez, il me manquera 2 mailles au total. J'ai 256 mailles. Si j'en enlève 2 pour chaque emmanchure de chaque côté, il m'en restera 252. Toutefois, ils disent que je devrais avoir 254 mailles (127/côté)! De plus, si je regarde le patron, il n'y a pas vraiment d'emmanchures. Donc, je me demande si je dois simplement enlever une maille par côté pour avoir un nombre impair pour faire le col...?

03.08.2023 - 11:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Josiane, oups je suis allée trop loin dans les tailles, effectivement, en taille S/M vous ne diminuez qu'une seule maille: la 1ère maille du devant + la 1ère mailles du dos = il reste 254 mailles soit 127 mailles pour le devant et autant pour le dos. Effectivement, les emmanchures ne sont pas vraiment marquées . Bon tricot!

03.08.2023 - 14:25

country flag Josiane wrote:

Je repose ma question différemment, puisque vous me dites exactement ce qui est écrit!!! Est-ce que je diminue à la maille no1 et 256, ou à la maille 1 et 129? Parce que "de chaque côté" n'est pas une expression que je suis habituée de lire lorsque je tricote de cette façon, et je suis un peu confuse. Merci!

02.08.2023 - 13:11

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Josiane, vous devez rabattre pour les emmanchures, autrement dit de chaque côté du pull: 1 maille au début du tour, puis tricotez comme avant jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 1 maille du devant, rabattez la dernière maille du devant + la 1ère maille du dos, continuez comme avant jusqu'à la dernière maile du dos que vous allez rabattre - vous avez maintenant rabattu 2 mailles pour les emmanchures (= de chaque côté du pull). Coupez le fil et continuez à tricoter le devant et le dos séparément (attention à bien commencer par un rang sur l'endroit ou sur l'envers en fonction du diagramme pour que les torsades continuent toujours sur l'endroit). Bon tricot!

02.08.2023 - 16:29

country flag Josiane C wrote:

Bonjour, Je fais le pull, et ils disent: "rabat 1-2-1 m de chaque côté pour les emmanchures ". Ne devrais-je pas en faire un aussi au milieu, pour avoir 2 emmanchures, puisque l'on tricote le dos et le devant ensemble? Merci beaucoup!

26.07.2023 - 00:15

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Josiane, a 38-44-50 cm de hauteur totale, rabat 1-2-1 m DE CHAQUE COTE pour les emmanchures (2 emmanchures) et terminer le dos et le devant séparément. Depuis ce moment vous allez tricoter le dos et le devant separement en allers et retours. Bon tricot!

26.07.2023 - 08:13

country flag Siri Olsson wrote:

Pannebåndet strikkesfrem og tilbake (rett og veangside) mens mønsterbord M.1 kun viser rettsiden.

15.01.2022 - 16:30

country flag Christine wrote:

Je vous remercie, je cherche des gants facile à réaliser. une suggestion ? merci

05.01.2022 - 18:58

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Christine, consultez nos différents modèles de gants, vous en trouverez de différents types, l'un d'eux vous inspirera peut-être. Bon tricot!

06.01.2022 - 08:06

country flag Christine wrote:

Je voudrai faire des gants mais je ne comprends vraiment rien à vos explications. merci de me guider ou me dire quel modèle sera plus facile. Je tricote depuis longtemps mais là ce n'est pas clair. merci

05.01.2022 - 13:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Christine, les gants se tricotent en rond, on va augmenter pour le gousset du pouce puis glisser les mailles du pouce en attente et monter des mailles au-dessus de ces mailles en attente. On continue la main sur quelques rangs/cm et on tricote ensuite chaque doigt séparément en commençant par l'auriculaire. dites-nous précisément ce que nous ne comprenez pas, ce sera ainsi plus simple de vous aider. Bon tricot!

05.01.2022 - 16:58

country flag Kim wrote:

Hi I am looking do knit 27-6 pattern in Karisma. The yarn it says is double knit but looking at the picture the wool looks thicker. Please can you confirm?

06.01.2020 - 18:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kim, this pattern is worked in DROPS Karisma - and can be worked with any other yarn group B - read more about alternatives here. Happy knitting!

07.01.2020 - 08:14

country flag Jose Bekx wrote:

Hallo, volgens mij stat er bij de uitleg van de tekens bij patroon m 3 een verkeerde uitleg . het betreft een teken voor 5 steken , maar er staat een uitleg bij van 4 steken. Er staat zet 2 steek op een kabelnaald en brei twee steek rechts. een van beide moet 3 steken zijn , maar ik weet niet welke .

09.11.2019 - 20:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Jose,

Dankjewel voor het doorgeven, het is nu aangepast. Veel breiplezier!

15.11.2019 - 15:05

country flag Nadia wrote:

Pour l'étole pardon

15.01.2017 - 15:30

country flag Nadia wrote:

Bonjour Après avoir effectuer le diagramme je ne comprends pas " continuer ainsi jusqu'à 2,3-2,6m"

15.01.2017 - 15:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nadia, tricotez les diagrammes ainsi: 3 m au point de riz, M1, 20 m de M2, M3, 20 m de M2, M1, 3m au point de riz - jusqu'à ce que l'ouvrag emesure 2,3 / 2,4 mètres de hauteur totale. Bon tricot!

16.01.2017 - 10:17