DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.90£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Alana

Knitted DROPS jumper with cables and raglan, worked top down in ”Karisma”. Size S-XXL

DROPS 156-19
DROPS design: Pattern no u-734
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
650-750-800-850-1050 g colour no 55, light beige brown

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40, 60 and 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.90£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 - A.5. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

RAGLAN:
Inc on each side of raglan sts (A.1/A.2, marker, A.2/A.1) by making 1 YO = 8 inc on round. On next round K the YOs twisted to avoid holes. Then P the new sts on sleeves, and on front and back piece work the new sts in pattern as explained below.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Dec on each side of marker as follows: Work until 3 sts remain before marker, P 2 tog, P 2, P 2 tog = 2 sts dec.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making a YO. On next round P YOs twisted, i.e. work in the back loop of st instead of front to avoid holes. P the new sts.
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JUMPER:
Worked top down in the round on circular needle. Work sleeve in the round on circular needle/double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 92-92-97-97-101 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with Karisma. Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST in the round on circular needle - see explanation above. Continue to work an elevation in GARTER ST back and forth -see explanation above, from mid back as follows (1st row = RS): Now work 5-5-7-7-9 sts, turn, work 10-10-14-14-18 sts, turn, work 15-15-19-19-23 sts, turn, work 20-20-24-24-28 sts, turn, work 25-25-29-29-33 sts, turn, work 30-30-34-34-38 sts, turn, work 35-35-39-39-43 sts, turn, work 40-40-43-43-48 sts, turn, work back to beg of round. Now K 1 round AT THE SAME TIME inc 24-24-23-23-27 sts evenly = 116-116-120-120-128 sts. P 18-18-19-19-21, insert 1st marker here (= this is now beg of round), A.2, P 2, A.2, P 2, A.1, insert 2nd marker here, A.2, P 0-0-1-1-3, A.3, P 0-0-1-1-3, A.1, insert 3rd marker here, A.2, P 2, A.2, P 2, A.1, insert 4th marker here, A.2, P 0-0-1-1-3, A.3, P 0-0-1-1-3, A.1.

READ THE NEXT 2 SECTIONS BEFORE CONTINUING! REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! On next round beg inc for RAGLAN – see explanation above, AT THE SAME TIME work pattern as follows:
RAGLAN:
Repeat inc every round 0-2-10-20-20 times in total. Then inc every other round 23-32-30-26-27 times and every 3rd round 6-0-0-0-0 times = 348-388-440-488-504 sts.
PATTERN:
Work pattern on body as follows (P the inc sts on sleeves): Work the first 6 sts inc in A.2, then P next 8-9-7-8-8 inc sts, work the next 6 inc sts in A.2, P the next 8-9-7-8-8 inc sts. NOTE: (Size M-L-XL-XXL): When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue with A.2 over cable and P the remaining sts from A.3 until start of body.

S/M: Then inc as before on sleeve and inc inside A.1/A.2 (i.e. between A.1 and A.2, towards marker for raglan) on front and back piece 1-4 more times. P the new sts.

L/XL/XXL: Continue with A.2 over the next 6 inc sts, P the next 7-8-8 inc sts, then inc as before on sleeve and inc inside A.1/A.2 (i.e. between A.1 and A.2, towards marker for raglan) on front and back piece 1-4-5 more times. P the last 1-4-5 inc sts.

Piece now measures 27-28-29-30-31 cm from shoulder. Now work as follows: Slip the first 80-90-102-114-116 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 12 new sts under sleeve, insert a blue marker in the middle of these new sts, work the next 94-104-118-130-136 sts (= front piece), slip the next 80-90-102-114-116 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 12 new sts under sleeve, insert a blue marker in the middle of these new sts, work the remaining 94-104-118-130-136 sts on round (= back piece). NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE.

BODY:
There are now 212-232-260-284-296 sts for body. Then continue pattern as follows:

S/M: P 6-3, * A.2 0-1 time in width, P 7-7, A.2, P 8-9, insert a marker, A.2, P 8-9, insert a marker, A.2, P 9-9, A.2, P 9-9, A.2, insert a marker, P 8-9, A.2, insert a marker, P 8-9, A.1*, P 7-7, repeat from *-* 1 more time, P 1-4

L/XL/XXL: P 3-3-0, * A.2 1-1-2 times in width, P 4-6-5, A.2, P 7-8-8, insert a marker, A.2, P 7-8-8, insert a marker, A.2, P 7-8-8, insert a marker, A.2, P 10-11-12, A.2, P 10-11-12, A.2, insert a marker, P 7-8-8, A.2, insert a marker, P 7-8-8, A.2, insert a marker, P 7-8-8, A.1 *, P 4-6-5, repeat from *-* 1 more time, P 1-3-5.

READ THE NEXT 2 SECTIONS BEFORE CONTINUING!
Now dec and inc at the same time as follows:

DECREASE:
Dec differently as follows - READ DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st on each side of the middle cable on front and back piece. Repeat dec every 2-2-1½-1½-1½ cm 3-3-4-4-6 more times.
AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st towards cable in every section with P sts with marker in (= 8-8-12-12-12 markers). Repeat dec every 3-2½-5-4-4 cm 2-3-1-2-2 more times.

INCREASE (towards the sides):
When piece measures 3 cm, inc along the cable towards the sleeve (i.e. cable from raglan) in P section towards the sides – READ INCREASE TIP! Inc 4 sts on round. Repeat inc every 1½-1½-2½-1½-1 cm 3-4-2-4-10 more times.

When all dec and inc are done, 188-204-228-248-276 sts remain. When piece measures 11-12-12-13-14 cm, work pattern as follows:
P 6-3-6-6-0, A.2 0-1-1-1-2 times in width, P 7-8-6-11-15, A.4 0-0-1-1-1 time in width, * A.5, A.4 *, repeat from *-* 2-2-3-3-3 more times in width, A.5 1-1-0-0-0 times in width, P 7-8-6-11-15, A.2 0-1-1-1-2 times in width, P 7-8-6-11-15, A.4 0-0-1-1-1 time in width, * A.5, A.4 *, repeat from *-* 2-2-3-3-3 more times in width, A.5 1-1-0-0-0 times in width, P 1-5-0-5-15. NOTE: Adjust the first cable in A.4 and A.5 to get a nice transition between diagrams. Continue with pattern and inc according to diagram.
When A.4 and A.5 have been worked vertically and piece measures approx. 33-34-34-35-35 cm, there are 308-324-364-384-412 sts on round. Insert a marker here. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE.

Now work rib as follows:
S/M: * Work K over K and P over P until 7-11 sts remain before the blue marker in the side, P 2, K 2, P 3-4 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time and continue with K over K and P over P the rest of round.

L/XL/XXL: * Work K over K and P over P until 8-14-21 sts remain before the blue marker in the side, K 2-2-2, P 3-4-3, K 0-2-2, P 0-3-3, K 0-0-2, P 0-0-3 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time and continue with K over K and P over P the rest of round.

When rib has been worked for 2 cm from marker, inc by making 1 YO before first P st in every P section - remember INCREASE TIP. When rib has been worked for 5-5-6-6-6 cm, cast off with K over K and P over P.

SLEEVES:
Slip the 80-90-102-114-116 sts from stitch holder back on circular needle. K 1 row over all sts and cast on 12 new sts at the end of row = 92-102-114-126-128 sts. Insert a marker in the middle of the new sts (i.e. 6 sts on each side of marker). NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Then work sleeve in the round on circular needle/double pointed needles. Continue the middle cable on sleeve as before but work P over cables in raglan. On 2nd round beg dec on each side of marker - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec in every other round 6 more times = 78-88-100-112-114 sts. Then dec 1 st on each side of marker every 2-1½-1-1-1 cm 13-17-22-27-27 times = 52-54-56-58-60 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 15 cm, work A.5 over cable in the middle of sleeve - adjust the first cable in A.5 to get a nice transition between diagrams. NOTE: Do not inc in A.5 on sleeve, i.e. do not work YOs in diagram. When A.5 is finished and sleeve measures 37 cm, work rib as follows from marker at beg of round: P 0-0-1-2-3, K 1-2-2-2-2, P 3, K 2, P 3, K 2, P 2, continue rib as on last row in A.5 (= 26 sts), P 2, K 2, P 3, K 2, P 3, K 1-2-2-2-2, P 0-0-1-2-3. Continue like this for 3 cm, cast off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the holes under the sleeves.

Diagram

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2, P 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 2, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2, P 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 1, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts On next round work YO twisted
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (218)

country flag Celeste Allain wrote:

I'm sorry. I know this question has been asked before but I just don't understand. When the directions say to work rib as follows: for size M, work until 11 sts. remain before side marker, P2, K2, P4 is only 8 sts. How do I possibly make this work? Thank you.

17.03.2024 - 16:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Allain, after you have worked these 8 sts just repeat from *to* as before, that's okay that there are not 11 sts as the "missing" 3 sts are the first 3 sts from the repeat from *to*. Happy knitting!

18.03.2024 - 09:25

country flag Diane Rawlings wrote:

As Linda below, I am struggling with following the pattern increase instructions. All great up to this point. Thank you. Diane

03.03.2024 - 14:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Diane, which increases are you referring to? There are many different increases: raglan increases, increases towards the sides, rib increases, sleeve increases. Could you please indicate the specific section you are struggling with? Happy knitting!

03.03.2024 - 23:37

country flag Marie wrote:

Bonjour merci de vos modeles super beau mais j 'ai un petit probleme je n aimes pas du tout tricoter de bas en haut et le modele 156-19 nr peut il se tricoter de bas en haut merci de ce que vous ppurrez me dire pour realiser ce modele

17.02.2024 - 19:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie, vous pouvez probablement adapter les explications pour le tricoter de bas en haut, mais il paraît plus simple de tricoter comme indiqué; retrouvez sinon tous nos pulls tricotés de bas en haut avec torsades ici, n'hésitez pas à ajouter des filtres si besoin. Bon tricot!

19.02.2024 - 09:12

country flag Celeste Allain wrote:

This is by far the most confusing pattern I have ever seen. I have another question, please. When I'm decreasing and increasing at the same time after putting sleeves stitches on holders, I'm confused. I've figured out where to decrease, both decreases. I don't know where to increase. At the last cable near the sleeves on front and back, do I increase on the side front and back or under the armhole where I originally added the 12 stitches? Thank you.

05.02.2024 - 04:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Allain, you will increase the number of stitches in the Purl sections after the cable on previous raglan at the end of left front piece, before the cable on previous raglan at the beg of back piece, after the cable on previous raglan at the end of back piece and before the cable on previous raglan at the beg of right front piece = 2 sts are increased on each side, 4 sts in total. Happy knitting!

05.02.2024 - 15:43

country flag Celeste Allain wrote:

Please ignore my last question. I found a few lines of the directions that didn't print out for some reason. Thanks!

02.02.2024 - 01:13

country flag Celeste Allain wrote:

Near the end of the body, when I have 324 sts. for size M , the directions say to put a marker and to measure the piece from there. But then there is only one more row of ribbing in the directions. Do I do more than one row and when do I bind off??? Thank you.

02.02.2024 - 00:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Celeste, You measure the ribbing from this last marker - first 2 cm of rib, then increase 1 stitch before each purled section, then work until the ribbing measures a total of 5 cm in size M before binding off. Happy knitting!

02.02.2024 - 08:01

country flag Celeste Allain wrote:

I\'m making size M. Once I have 388 sts. the directions say to increase 4 more times on sleeve and inside A.1 and A.2. That would be 8 sts. every row. Two questions: will this be done every row or every other row as before? Then I have too many stitches to have the rest of the directions be accurate for the M size. Should I only do this 3 times instead of 4? Thank you.

24.01.2024 - 17:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Allain, these sections explain how to work the new stitches increased for raglan, this means when all increases are done, you have 388 sts on needle and piece measures 28 cm from shoulder down, now divide piece as explained just afterwards. Happy knitting!

25.01.2024 - 08:34

country flag Celeste Allain wrote:

I'm currently increasing for raglan. until I have 388 sts. But where it says PATTERN: P the inc sts. on sleeves. Then it says work the first 6 sts. inc in A.2, P 9 sts, next 6 inc. sts. in A.2, P 9 sts. Where are those sts if I'm supposed to be purling the inc. sts?

06.01.2024 - 16:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Allain, the new stitches increased on sleeves are always purled, but the new stitches for raglan on front and back piece will be worked in pattern: first work the first 6 increases as shown in A.2, then purl the next 8 increaes, then work the next 6 increases as in A.2, and purl the next 9 increases. Happy knitting!

08.01.2024 - 10:18

country flag Celeste Allain wrote:

For DECREASE TIP (sleeves) it says work until 3 stitches remain before marker, P 2 tog, P2, P 2 tog. That requires 6 stitches. I'm confused yet again by your instructions. Please advise? Thank you.

03.01.2024 - 20:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Celeste, The marker sits in the middle of the 2 purled stitches and you purl 2 together on each side of these 2 purled stitches and marker (which covers 6 stitches). Happy knitting!

04.01.2024 - 07:46

country flag Celeste Allain wrote:

When reading instructions for increasing for raglan, it says to K the YOs twisted. Then to P the new stitches on sleeves. But when reading instructions where it says INCREASE TIP, it says to P YOs twisted then to P the new stitches. I'm confused as to whether to K or P?

03.01.2024 - 19:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dar Mrs Allain, the yarn overs will be knitted twisted on next round then work either purl or knit depending on the pattern, but you can choose to work them purl twisted from the beg if you like to. Happy knitting!

04.01.2024 - 08:12