DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Yasmin

Crochet DROPS tunic with lace pattern, flounce at the bottom and butterfly for decoration in ”Cotton Viscose”.

DROPS 148-9
DROPS design: Pattern no n-146
Yarn group A
--------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON VISCOSE from Garnstudio
550-600-650-700-800-900 g colour no 01, white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 mm – or size needed to get 23 tr x 12 rows = 10 x 10 cm. When working pattern 1 repetition = approx. 3.5 cm in width x 4 cm vertically.

1.5-2 meter silk ribbon around the waist, approx. 10 mm wide in a suitable colour.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first tr on every row with 3 ch.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

DECREASE TIP (applies to neck and armhole):
Dec at beg of row as follows: Work sl sts over no of tr to be dec.
Dec at end of row as follows: When no of tr to be dec remains, turn.
--------------------------------------------------------

TUNIC:
Worked back and forth in 2 parts and sewn tog when finished.

FRONT PIECE:
Work 141-160-178-197-216-234 ch on hook size 3 mm with Cotton Viscose. Continue with 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, then 1 dc in each of the next 6-4-8-6-4-8 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 121-137-153-169-185-201 dc. Continue pattern A.1 as follows: Diagram a over the first 9 dc, diagram b until 8 dc remain, then diagram c over these (= 15-17-19-21-23-25 repetitions in total on row). Repeat the 4 rows in diagram A.1 upwards until piece measures approx. 32 cm – finish after 4th row in diagram. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
Then work diagram A.2 one time vertically. When A.2 has been worked, there are 92-104-116-128-140-152 tr on row. Then work 1 tr in every tr - READ CROCHET INFO.
When piece measures 46-47-48-49-50-51 cm, dec for armhole in each side on every row as follows – READ DECREASE TIP: 4 tr 1 time, 3 tr 0-0-1-1-2-3 times, 2 tr 0-1-1-3-3-4 times and 1 tr 1-3-4-4-5-4 times in each side = 82-86-90-94-98-102 tr remain on row.
When piece measures 53-54-56-57-59-60 cm, beg neck dec and finish each shoulder separately.
FIRST SHOULDER: Work tr back and forth over the first 28-30-31-33-34-36 tr in one side – AT THE SAME TIME dec towards the neck on every row: 3 tr 1 time, 2 tr 2 times and 1 tr 2 times = 19-21-22-24-25-27 tr remain on shoulder. When piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm, cut the thread.
OTHER SHOULDER: Work the same way as the first.

BACK PIECE:
Work as front piece up to and with armhole dec = 82-86-90-94-98-102 tr on row. Continue to work until piece measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm. Now finish each shoulder separately as follows: Work 1 row with tr over the first 21-23-24-26-27-29 tr, turn, dec the first 2 tr and work the rest of row, cut the thread. Repeat on the other shoulder.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam. Sew side seams edge to edge so that they are less visible.

FLOUNCE AT THE BOTTOM:
Work in the dc row at the bottom of body as follows (beg in one side):
ROUND 1: 1 dc in first dc, * 3 ch, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first dc.
ROUND 2: 2 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, * 4 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first dc.
ROUND 3: 2 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, * 4 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first dc.
ROUND 4: 2 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, * 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first dc.
ROUND 5: 2 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, * 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first dc.
ROUND 6: Work as follows in every ch-loop: 2 dc + 1 picot (= 3 ch, 1 dc in first ch) + 2 dc. Cut and fasten the thread.

EDGE AROUND THE ARMHOLES AND NECK:
Beg mid back of neck and mid under armhole.
ROUND 1: 1 dc in first st, * 3 ch, skip approx. ½ cm, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first dc.
ROUND 2: Work as follows in every ch-loop: 1 dc + 1 picot (= 3 ch, 1 dc in first ch) + 1 dc. Cut and fasten the thread.

SILK RIBBON: Thread a silk ribbon in the row with eyelet holes at the top below the yoke – beg and end in the left side at the front and make a small bow.


BUTTERFLY - for decoration:

WINGS: Work 15 ch on hook size 3 mm. Work all rows from RS.
ROW 1: Work 3 triple tr in 6th ch from hook, 1 ch, 1 tr in next ch, 2 ch (on 2nd row beg working here), 2 triple tr in next ch, 1 triple tr in next ch, 3 ch, 1 sl st in next ch, 3 ch (on 3rd row beg working here), 1 triple tr in next ch, 2 triple tr in next ch, 1 ch, 1 tr in next ch, 2 ch, 3 triple tr in next ch, 5 ch, 1 sl st in last ch. Cut and fasten the thread.
ROW 2: Start by working 1 sl st in the second of the 2 ch from previous row (see 1st row), 1 ch, in next triple tr work as follows: 1 htr and 1 tr, in next triple tr work as follows: 1 tr (on 4th row beg working here), 1 ch, 1 dtr and 1 tr, in next triple tr work as follows: 1 tr and 1 htr, 1 ch, 1 sl st in the 1st of the 3 ch from previous row. Cut and fasten the thread.
ROW 3: Start by working 1 sl st in the third of the 3 ch from 1st row (see 1st row), 1 ch, in next triple tr work as follows: 1 htr and 1 tr, in next triple tr work as follows: 1 tr (on 5th row beg working here), 1 dtr, 1 ch, 1 tr, in next triple tr work as follows: 1 tr and 1 htr, 1 ch, 1 sl st in 1 ch from 1st row. Cut and fasten the thread.
ROW 4: Start by working 1 sl st in tr from 2nd row (see 2nd row), 1 ch, in next dtr work as follows: 1 dc, 1 ch and 1 dc, 1 ch, 1 sl st in next tr. Cut and fasten the thread.
ROW 5: Start by working 1 sl st in tr from 3rd row (see 3rd row), 1 ch, in next dtr work as follows: 1 dc, 1 ch and 1 dc, 1 ch, 1 sl st in next tr. Cut and fasten the thread.
BODY:
Work as follows with double yarn: 6 ch, 2 dc in the 2nd ch from hook (= head). Cut and fasten the thread. Sew the body on to the wings with the head up between the big wings.
Finish by working a row of sl sts along the edge of the big wings.
Sew the butterfly to the left side of yoke.

Diagram

symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 dc
symbols = 1 tr
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 148-9

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (74)

country flag Christy wrote:

I am having a issue with the dec for armhole. The issue is all the numbers I am making a size small dec for armhole in each side on every row as follows – READ DECREASE TIP: 4 dc 1 time, 3 dc 0-0-1-1-2-3 times, 2 dc 0-1-1-3-3-4 times and 1 dc 1-3-4-4-5-4 times in each side = 82-86-90-94-98-102 dc remain on row. When piece measures 53-54-56-57-59-60 cm / 21"-21 1/4"-22"-22½"-23 1/4"-23½", beg neck dec and finish each shoulder separately.

19.04.2022 - 02:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Christy, size Small is the first size - you have then to follow only the first numbers: 4 dc 1 time and 1 dc 1 time in each side = 82 dc remain (= 5 dc decreased on each side). Happy crocheting!

19.04.2022 - 11:57

country flag Fia Älander wrote:

Hur vet jag vilken storlek jag ska virka?

17.03.2022 - 10:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Fia. Det finns en måttskiss längst ner på mönstret där alla mått finns i cm, i alla storlekar. Mät gärna ett plagg du redan har och välj den storlek som är närmast. Mvh DROPS Design

17.03.2022 - 12:00

country flag Desiree Barhorst-Weller wrote:

Oeps, ik stelde mijn vraag bij het verkeerde patroon! Toch heb ik hier ook een vraag over: de afmeting die ik heb onder mijn buste is 112 cm en ik haak wat ruimer (ik kwam bij XXXL op 92 i.p.v. 88 cm). Welke maat heb ik nu nodig en kan ik dan beter een haaknaald kleiner nemen? En als ik dan wel een proeflapje moet maken, hoe dan?

11.03.2022 - 14:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Desiree,

Als je wat ruimer haakt kun je het beste een kleinere haaknaald nemen en opnieuw een proeflapje maken zodat de stekenverhouding overeenkomt met de stekenverhouding in het patroon. De maten in de schematekening zijn de maten over de buste, dus over het breedste punt van de buste gemeten en niet onder de buste.

14.03.2022 - 12:59

country flag Desiree Barhorst-Weller wrote:

Ik zou graag een deken willen haken van 120x200 cm. Hoeveel steken zou ik daarvoor op moeten zetten en hoeveel bollen zou ik daarvoor nodig hebben? Ik kan het helaas niet meer navragen in de winkel, omdat ik de bollen jaren geleden heb gekocht en de winkel er niet meer is.

11.03.2022 - 14:29

country flag Susan C wrote:

I'm ready to start this pattern in size large but I don't understand why I should skip chains in the first row. I have looked at the instructions for the flounce and it doesn't seem to coincide with the beginning row of the sweater. What happens to those skipped chains? And I'm thinking of doing it in the round up to the armholes. So should I continue on with "skip 1 ch , 1 sc in next 6 chains"? Or should I do a second "sc in the next 8 chains"?

17.10.2021 - 19:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Susan C, the chain is usually longer than the actual number of stitches needed in order to avoid it getting too tight. You only skip these in the first row, then you work according to the pattern. Happy crochetting!

17.10.2021 - 19:54

country flag Gia wrote:

I'm not able to understand the decreasing method for armholes .I am making the medium size

10.03.2021 - 19:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Gia, what part is exactly that you do not understand? The method, or the amount of stitches decreased? Please remember that you can always ask for help (in person or over the phone) in the store you bought your DROPS yarn from. Happy Crafting!

11.03.2021 - 01:10

country flag Darlene M Duval wrote:

I need to find an alternative yarn because the viscose cotton yarn has been discontinued. I need to replace it with 900 grams, the next choice in the conversion chart is the thread count. This I don't know. What thread count is the yarn? Please provide an alternative yarn, thread count. Thank you.

28.07.2020 - 05:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Darlene, The thread count means if you want to knit up a garment with 1 yarn or with yarn doubled (for thicker garments). Here is a list of the substitute yarns for DROPS Cotton Viscose (note some are Winter yarns) 0g DROPS Fabel (1 thread) - 0g DROPS Delight (1 thread) - 0g DROPS Baby Merino (1 thread) - 0g DROPS Flora (1 thread) - 0g DROPS Safran (1 thread) - 0g DROPS Nord (1 thread) - 0g DROPS Alpaca (1 thread) - 0g DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk (1 thread) Happy Knitting!

28.07.2020 - 10:58

country flag Vanden Bosch Nancy wrote:

Kan ik ergens wat meer uitleg vinden om de vlinder te haken?

07.08.2019 - 16:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Nancy,

We hebben helaas geen speciale video of aparte uitleg voor de vlinder. Als je aangeeft waar je precies tegenaan loopt, dan kunnen we je beter helpen. Je kunt evt. ook altijd met je vragen terecht bij de lokale winkel waar je het garen hebt gekocht.

08.08.2019 - 13:37

country flag Ria Agterberg wrote:

Bij dit patroon moet je beginnen met meer lossen omdat de eerste toer vaak gaat trekken omdat de lossenketting meestal strakker is. Ik wil iedereen aanraden om de vasten hakend op te zetten. Sinds ik weet hoe je dit kan doen maak ik hier altijd gebruik van. Het is een geweldige manier om een werkstuk te beginnen, ook zijn de steken veel makkelijker te tellen. Omdat ik de vraag las van iemand waarom je meer lossen moet opzetten dan de vasten dacht ik dat iedereen dit zou moeten weten.

03.08.2019 - 01:29

country flag Sue wrote:

I asked what type yarn is compatible to cotton viscose? Seeing that I have never heard of a Drops store I can't just drop everything n go right out n go to one n buy yarn there. So kindly please answer my question as to what other brands of yarn would be compatible to cotton viscose.

02.07.2019 - 09:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sue, We are able to provide free patterns thanks to our yarns sold throughout the world. You will therefore understand that we can only recomand you to contact your DROPS Store shipping to USA for any further help & assistance. Thank you for your comprehension.

02.07.2019 - 10:37