DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.75 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

From the Coast

Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern and round yoke in "Paris". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 128-28
DROPS design: Pattern no W-404
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
600-650-750-800-850-950 g colour no 16, white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm. And 17 sts x 25 rows with pattern on yoke = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - for edges.

DROPS ANGULAR SILVER BUTTONS, NO 534: 7-7-7-8-8-8 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.75 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle): K all rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 to M.3. The diagram shows the pattern from RS.

DECREASE TIP (applies to body):
All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows before marker: K 2 tog.

INCREASE TIP:
All inc are done from RS!
Inc 1 st by picking up a st from previous row, K this st.

BUTTON HOLES:
Cast off for button holes on right front band.
1 BUTTON HOLE = K tog second and third st from edge and make 1 YO.
Cast off for button holes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 14, 23, 32, 41, 50, 59 and 68 cm
SIZE M: 16, 25, 34, 43, 52, 61 and 70 cm
SIZE L: 18, 27, 36, 45, 54, 63 and 72 cm
SIZE XL: 21, 29, 37, 45, 53, 60, 67 and 74 cm
SIZE XXL: 23, 31, 39, 47, 55, 62, 69 and 76 cm
SIZE XXXL: 21, 30, 39, 48, 57, 64, 71 and 78 cm
I.e. approx. 2 cm remain until finished measurements after last button hole and 3rd-3rd-3rd-4th-4th-4th button hole from top is in the transition to M.3 on the round yoke.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 177-191-207-225-245-265 sts (incl 5 band sts each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4 mm with Paris. Work first row from RS as follows: 5 band sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above -, M.1 until 6 sts remain, finish with first st in M.1 and 5 band sts in GARTER ST. Continue the pattern like this. NOTE! On 7th row in M.1 K last st before band.
After M.1, switch to circular needle size 5 mm and work next row from RS as follows: 5 band sts as before, 1 st in stocking st, M.2A over the next 20-20-20-30-30-40 sts, M.2B (= 11 sts), insert a marker (= marker 1), work 21-28-31-25-30-25 sts in stocking st, insert a marker (= marker 2), work M.2A over the next 50-50-60-70-80-90 sts, M.2B (= 11 sts), insert a marker (= marker 3), work 21-28-31-25-30-25 sts in stocking st, insert a marker (= marker 4), work M.2A over the next 20-20-20-30-30-40 sts, M.2B (= 11 sts), 1 st in stocking st and 5 band sts in garter st. Continue the pattern like this.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 9-9-10-10-10-10 cm, dec 1 st after marker 1 and 3 and before marker 2 and 4 (= 4 sts dec). READ DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 3 cm a total of 9 times = 141-155-171-189-209-229 sts. REMEMBER BUTTON HOLES ON RIGHT BAND - see explanation above. When piece measures 37-38-38-38-39-39 cm, inc 1 st after marker 1 and 3 and before marker 2 and 4 (= 4 sts inc). READ INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc every 5-5-5-5-9-9 cm a total of 3-3-3-3-2-2 times = 153-167-183-201-217-237 sts. Now remove the 4 markers and insert 2 new markers in the piece after 41-44-48-53-57-62 sts from each side (= 71-79-87-95-103-113 sts between markers on back piece). Continue pattern as before. When piece measures approx. 49-51-52-52-54-55 cm - adjust after 1st, 9th or 11th row in M.2, i.e. so that next row is worked from WS -, cast off 6-6-6-8-8-8 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. 3-3-3-4-4-4 sts on each side of both markers) = 65-73-81-87-95-105 sts on back piece and 38-41-45-49-53-58 sts on each front piece. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 42-42-42-44-44-44 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm with Paris. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. Work M.1. AT THE SAME TIME on last round of M.1, inc 1 st = 43-43-43-45-45-45 sts. After M.1, switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm and work next round as follows: 1-1-1-2-2-2 sts in stocking st, M.2A over the next 30 sts, M.2B (= 11 sts) and 1-1-1-2-2-2 sts in stocking st. Continue the pattern like this. When piece measures 8-9-9-9-10-12 cm, inc 2 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. 1 st on each side of marker). Repeat inc every 5-3½-3-2½-2-1½ cm a total of 7-9-10-11-13-15 times = 57-61-63-67-71-75 sts. NOTE! Work inc sts in stocking st until they can be worked in one whole repetition of the pattern. When piece measures approx. 41-41-40-38-38-37 cm (NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and broader shoulder width) - adjust to finish after same round in diagram as on body - cast off 6-6-6-8-8-8 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. 3-3-3-4-4-4 sts on each side of marker) = 51-55-57-59-63-67 sts. Slip sts on a stitch holder and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle size 5 mm as body where armholes were cast off = 243-265-285-303-327-355 sts. Work 2-2-4-2-2-4 rows in stocking st (1st row = K from RS and work bands in garter st as before until finished measurements) while AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-2-8-12-8-8 sts evenly (do not dec over bands) = 235-263-277-291-319-347 sts. Work next row from RS as follows (NOTE! see diagram for correct size): 5 band sts, M.3 over the next 224-252-266-280-308-336 sts (1 repetition = 14 sts), finish with 1st st in M.3 and 5 band sts. Continue the pattern like this. NOTE: On the rows that start with K 2 tog at beg of 1 repetition, K last st before band. Continue the pattern like this. After last dec, 107-119-125-131-143-155 sts remain on needle, work last row in diagram = P from WS.

NECKLINE:
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work M.1 with 5 band sts in each side (1st row = RS) while AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row, dec 22-28-28-28-32-36 sts evenly (do not dec over bands) = 85-91-97-103-111-119 sts. When 2 rows of M.1 have been worked, continue with GARTER ST back and forth on needle while AT THE SAME TIME working an elevation in the back of neck as follows (start from RS):
Work until 12-13-14-15-16-17 sts remain on needle, turn piece, tighten the thread and work back until 12-13-14-15-16-17 sts remain in the other side. Turn piece, tighten thread and work until 24-26-28-30-32-34 sts remain on needle, turn piece, tighten thread and work back until 24-26-28-30-32-34 sts remain in the other side.
Turn piece, tighten thread and work until 36-39-42-45-48-51 sts remain on needle, turn piece, tighten thread and work back until 36-39-42-45-48-51 sts remain in the other side. Turn piece, tighten thread and K the rest of the row.
Then continue M.1 with 5 band sts in each side but now start from WS on 4th row in diagram (last st on needle before band is worked as first st in M.1). NOTE! On 7th row in diagram K last st before band. After M.1, loosely cast off with K from RS.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Valerie Powell wrote:

What exactly does it mean when it says M.2B (=11 sts) when there are only 10 sts in the B pattern. If you are doing the XL size you do M.2A over 30 sts - is this 3 times the A section of the pattern? I have not done a Drops pattern before but love the look of this one and have begun it with the first 12 rows.

17.05.2019 - 15:29

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Powell, you first repeat the 10 sts in M.2A a total of 3 times in width = over the next 30 stitches, then work the 11 stitches in M.2B as shown in diagram. You can insert a marker between each diagram so that it will be easier to follow them and to check your number of stitches. Happy knitting!

20.05.2019 - 08:53

country flag Isabelle wrote:

Bonjour, pouvez vous m'expliquer : - a 52 cm ajuster apres le 1er, 9eme ou 11eme rang de M2 , c a dire pr que le rang suivant soit tricote a l'envers - comment dois je faire ?. Merci

29.05.2014 - 17:23

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Isabelle, ajustez les 52 cm pour que le rang suivant soit tricoté sur l'envers, et de sorte que le dernier rang tricoté sur l'endroit soit un rang 1, ou un rang 9 ou un rang 11 de M2. Bon tricot!

29.05.2014 - 18:39

Marlène Lavoie wrote:

Bonjour, j'ai commencé à tricoter ce magnifique modèle, cependant après les premières diminutions à 9cm de hauteur totale, le rang qui suit dans la section de 61 mailles ( rg 19 du diagramme) en tricotant ces mailles on obtient 5 mailles de plus, donc 66 mailles. On ne peut donc pas arriver à 141 mailles une fois les diminutions terminées (on enlève 4m à tous les 3 cm). Je vous remercie à l'avance de votre réponse le plus tôt possible serait très apprécié.

14.03.2013 - 00:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Madame Lavoie, au rang 19 du diagramme, les jetés sont compensés par les diminutions, le nombre de mailles de M2 reste le même, et donc en diminuant 9 fois 4 m, on obtient bien 177 - (4x9) = 141 m. Bon tricot !

14.03.2013 - 09:15

Erika wrote:

Wunderschön

17.01.2011 - 21:38

country flag LeneL wrote:

Very nice

09.01.2011 - 23:37

Cecilia wrote:

Muy bonito cardigan, espero que pronto nos brinden su patrón. Feliz Año, saludos desde ARgentina

08.01.2011 - 00:05

country flag Elisabeth wrote:

Flot trøje og igen i Paris dejligt garn :)

07.01.2011 - 17:28

country flag Enid Bergsma wrote:

Dit is een heel mooi patroon kan je op veel manieren dragen ga ik ook maken

06.01.2011 - 22:15

country flag Margit Pedersen wrote:

Den er super flot

05.01.2011 - 10:47

country flag Sylvia Tocklin wrote:

Återigen ett underbart vackert mönster, toppenfin kofta

02.01.2011 - 09:45