DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Timeless Grace

Knitted DROPS jacket worked sideways with lace pattern in "Muskat". Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 129-1
DROPS design: Pattern no R-591
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
NOTE: Because of st direction and because the garment is loose the jacket will be approx. 3-5 cm longer than the measurements in the chart when worn.

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
700-750-800-900-950-1050 g colour no 77, khaki

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm (80 cm) - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 mm - for rib borders.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1. The diagram shows the pattern from RS. See diagram for size!

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

GARTER ST (in the round):
*K 1 round and P 1 round*, repeat from *-*.
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JACKET:
The garment is knitted back and forth on circular needle because of no of sts. Work the jacket from mid front on left front piece and out towards the side, cast off for sleeve and continue until mid back before casting off. Then work right front piece the same way but reversed from mid front before the garment is sewn tog mid back. Finish by knitting and sewing in the sleeves.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 109-114-119-124-129-134 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with Muskat. K 7 rows back and forth over all sts (1st row = from WS). Continue working next row from RS as follows: * K3, K2 tog, 1 dbl YO (= 2 YO) *, repeat from *-* and finish with K4. Then K 7 rows over all sts (K one YO, slip the other YO off the needle).
Work next row as follows (from RS):
8 sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above -, P3, * K1, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* 5-5-5-6-6-6 times in total, K1, P1, *-* 5-5-5-6-6-6 times in total, K1, P3, K 55-60-65-66-71-76 sts while AT THE SAME TIME inc 14-16-17-16-15-16 sts evenly (inc 1 st by making 1 YO), P3, *-* 5-5-5-6-6-6 times in total, K1, P1, *-* 5-5-5-6-6-6 times in total, K1, P3 and 8 sts in garter st = 143-150-156-164-168-174 sts on needle.
Work next row as follows (from WS): 8 sts in garter st , K3, P 11-11-11-13-13-13 sts, K1, P 11-11-11-13-13-13 sts, K3, P 69-76-82-82-86-92 sts, K3, P 11-11-11-13-13-13 sts, K1, P 11-11-11-13-13-13 sts, K3 and 8 sts in garter st (NOTE! P YO twisted, i.e. in back loop of st instead of front to avoid holes).
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Continue to work as follows (from RS):
NOTE! See diagram for size!
8 sts in garter st, M.1, K 69-76-82-82-86-92 sts, M.1 and 8 sts in garter st.
AT THE SAME TIME make 1 hole in the 8 sts in garter st each side on every 14th row (every 7th garter st) as follows:
At beg of row (from RS): K3, K2 tog, 1 dbl YO, K3.
At end of row (from RS): K2, K2 tog, 1 dbl YO, K4.
On row after the dbl YO work 8 sts in garter st each side as before (K one YO, slip the other YO off the needle).
AT THE SAME TIME approx. every 4 cm work 2 extra rows back and forth only over the 8 sts in garter st each side (this is done so that the edge in garter st does not tighten the edge of piece).
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures approx. 41-46-51-55-63-70 cm - adjust so that next row is knitted from RS - slip the outermost 79-81-83-89-91-93 sts in the left side of piece (seen from RS) on a stitch holder. Work 6-6-6-10-10-10 rows as before (= approx. 2-2-2-4-4-4 cm) over the remaining 64-69-73-75-77-81 sts on needle. Cut the thread. Then slip these sts on a stitch holder. Slip the 79-81-83-89-91-93 sts from the first stitch holder back on circular needle size 4 mm and work armholes as follows from RS:
Size S + M + L: Cast off the first 40-42-44 sts at beg of row, work the remaining 39 sts on needle as before. Now insert a marker in the outermost st in the right side of needle (seen from RS - this marks where the sleeve cap is sewn into the armhole). Turn piece, work the 39 sts as before and then cast on 40-42-44 sts at the end of row. Cut the thread.
Size XL + XXL + XXXL: Cast off the first 23-24-25 sts at beg of row, work the remaining 66-67-68 sts on needle as before, turn piece. Work the 66-67-68 sts on the needle as before, turn piece. Cast off the first 23-24-25 sts at beg of row, work the remaining 43 sts on needle as before. Now insert a marker in the outermost st in the right side of needle (seen from RS - this marks where the sleeve cap is sewn into the armhole). Turn piece, work the 43 sts on needle as before and cast on 23-24-25 new sts at the end of row, turn piece. Work the 66-67-68 sts on the needle as before, turn piece. Work the 66-67-68 sts on needle as before and cast on 23-24-25 new sts at the end of row. Cut the thread.
ALL SIZES: Now slip the 64-69-73-75-77-81 sts from the stitch holder back on needle = 143-150-156-164-168-174 sts.
Continue to work as before over all sts (1st row = RS). AT THE SAME TIME increase for collar in the left side seen from RS. Inc 1 st by making 1 YO inside the outermost 2 sts. On next row K YO twisted to avoid holes. Work the inc sts in garter st. The holes in the 8 sts in garter st are made the same way and same place as before. Inc 1 st for collar every 2 cm a total of 7-8-8-9-9-10 times (= 15-16-16-17-17-18 sts in garter st) = 150-158-164-173-177-184 sts.
When piece measures 56-62-68-74-83-91 cm (measured in left side of piece seen from RS, piece measures approx. 57-63-69-76-85-93 cm in the right side), work 1 row from RS as before. Inc for collar should now be finished. Continue to work with short rows to add extra width mid back as follows (start at beg of row from WS = from neckline):
Work the first 68-70-71-76-76-78 sts on needle and then slip these sts on a stitch holder, work the remaining sts on the needle, turn piece and work back over all sts, turn piece, * work the first 7-7-6-7-6-7 sts on the needle, then slip sts on the same stitch holder and work the remaining sts on the needle, turn piece and work back over all sts *, repeat from *-* a total of 7-7-8-8-10-10 times. Then work the first 25-31-37-33-33-28 sts on needle, slip the sts on the same stitch holder and work the remaining 8 sts on needle. Slip all sts back on needle. Work next row as follows (from RS): 8 sts in garter st, K3, K2 tog 5-5-5-6-6-6 times, K3, K2 tog 5-5-5-6-6-6 times, K3, K 69-76-82-82-86-92 sts while AT THE SAME TIME dec 14-16-17-16-15-16 sts evenly, K3, K2 tog 5-5-5-6-6-6 times, K3, K2 tog 5-5-5-6-6-6 times, K3 and work 15-16-16-17-17-18 sts in garter st = 116-122-127-133-138-144 sts. K 1 row from WS over all sts. The piece now measures approx. 57-63-69-75-84-92 cm in the left side (seen from RS) and 64-70-77-84-94-102 cm in the right side, measured in knitting direction! Cast off LOOSELY.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as left front piece but reversed, i.e all measurements that were done in the left side of piece (seen from RS) are now done in the right side of piece (seen from RS). When working the 6-6-6-10-10-10 rows under the sleeve adjust so that the first row is worked from WS (instead of RS) and the outermost 79-81-83-89-91-93 sts in the left side of piece (seen from WS, not RS) are slipped on a stitch holder. Continue to follow explanation for sleeve from WS (instead of RS). Finish by working the short rows mid back by starting at beg of row from RS (instead of beg of row from WS).

SLEEVE:
Cast on 54-54-54-60-60-60 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with Muskat. K 1 round. Continue to work rib K3/P3. When rib measures 6-6-7-7-8-8 cm, K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-4-2-6-6-4 sts evenly = 48-50-52-54-54-56 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. Continue to work in the round in stocking st. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 9-9-11-11-13-13 cm, inc 2 sts mid under sleeve (= 1 st each side of marker). Repeat inc every 4½-3½-2½-2-1½-1½ cm a total of 9-11-13-15-18-20 times = 66-72-78-84-90-96 sts. Continue to work until piece measures 49-48-47-46-45-44 cm (NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and broader shoulder width). Now cast off 10 sts mid under sleeve (5 sts each side of marker) and continue to work back and forth in stocking st. Continue working while AT THE SAME TIME casting off 1 st at beg of every row a total of 11-12-13-15-16-18 times each side. Then cast off 5 sts at beg of the next 2 rows. The piece now measures approx. 58 cm in all sizes. Cast off the remaining sts.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the jacket tog mid back inside the cast off edge so that there are 2 garter st mid back. Sew in the sleeves - NOTE: Sew sleeve cap against the marker on the shoulder and sew the sleeve in each side along the opening of armhole marked with a star in the chart.

Diagram

symbols = knitting direction
symbols = mid front
symbols = sew sleeve in here
symbols = mid back
symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = P2 tog
symbols = P2 twisted tog (i.e. work in the back loops of sts instead of front)
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (91)

country flag Viktorija wrote:

Hi, I wonder whether the two extra rows over the 8 sts garter edge are still needed when the increases for the collar start?

02.09.2019 - 22:29

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Viktorija, you need more rows in garter stitch than in stocking stitch for the same height, without these extra rows, the garter stitch edge would contract piece in height. Happy knitting!

03.09.2019 - 08:53

country flag Joann Grubb wrote:

When setting up the left front after the garter stitch rows the pattern says to do 8 st in garter stitch, p3 *k1 1yo **repeat from *-** 5-5-5-6-6-6times. This is incorrect it should say 5-5-5-6-6-6 Times total. If you repeat it 5-5-5-6-6-6 times you have an extra stitch 151 not 150

22.08.2019 - 20:20

country flag Jeannette wrote:

Can u please send me the pattern please thx jeanette

25.06.2019 - 08:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jeannette, you can print the patttern by clicking on the icon "print: pattern" at any time. Choosing a virtual printer will allow you to save it as a .PDF file. Happy knitting!

25.06.2019 - 08:33

country flag Inita wrote:

Hi. i have 500gr of nice yarn(25g/65m) recommend needle size 3.5. will i be able to knit at least sleevless S or M size cardi. thanks

05.02.2019 - 21:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Inita, We are able to provide free patterns thanks to our yarns sold throughout the world. You will therefore understand that we can only recomand you to use our yarns. Thank you for your comprehension.

06.02.2019 - 08:59

country flag Heike Rennert wrote:

Sind die cm Angaben ab dem Bündchen oder inklusive des Bündchen?

07.01.2019 - 10:50

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Rennert, die Angaben werden von der Anschlagskante gemessen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

07.01.2019 - 12:15

country flag Shirley wrote:

Ik ben bezig met het linker voorpand, nu heb ik volgens de uitleg de buitenste 81 st aan de linkerkant op een hulpdraad gezet en vervolgens 6 nld over de overgebleven 69 st gebreid. Maar wanneer ik nu het armsgat brei over de 81 st loopt het telpatroon niet meer gelijk. Ik heb aan de linkerkant 4 nld minder dan aan de rechterkant van het werk. Is dit wel de bedoeling of ik doe ik iets verkeerd?

31.10.2018 - 15:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dag shirly,

Dat klopt. Door de verkorte toeren ben je aan de ene kant op een andere plek in M.1 qua hoogte dan aan de andere kant. Dat maakt niet uit als M.1 maar mooi doorloopt op elke kant.

31.10.2018 - 18:01

country flag Nicole FORTIN wrote:

Bonjour, à 51 cm du hauteur totale, j'ai fait le rg 8 du diagramme; puis je tricote 2cm sur les m de droite, soit 4 rgs pour moi, j'ai fait le rg 12 du diagramme - je reprends les m de gauche, je rabats les 44 premières m, je tourne, soit 2 rgs, j'ai fait le rg 10 du diagramme + 44m et reprendre toutes les mailles; mais je me retrouve avec un décalage de 2 rgs dans le dessin de gauche par rapport à celui de droite!...merci de me dire où je me suis trompée; cordialement

29.06.2017 - 09:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Fortin, à 51 cm (en taille L), vous tricotez 6 rangs sur les 73 m restant sur l'aiguille (soit si vous commencez par le rang 9, les rangs 9 à 14, et vous mettez ces mailles en attente (bas du côté, sous la manche). Vous reprenez les 83 m restant sur l'aiguille, rabattez 44 m et tricotez les 39 m restantes, tournez tricotez ces 39 m et montez 44 m (= vous tricotez 2 rangs sur ces mailles, soit les rangs 9 et 10) coupez le fil. Reprenez ensuite les 73 m en attente = (39+44+73=) 156 m au total. Les diagrammes ne vont plus se suivre en même temps mais continuez les comme avant pour que le motif reste le même. Bon tricot!

29.06.2017 - 14:44

country flag Olga Sergeeva wrote:

Thank you, sorry,but I meant this part, i dont understand this part: increase for collar in the left side seen from RS. Inc 1 st by making 1 YO inside the outermost 2 sts. On next row K YO twisted to avoid holes. Work the inc sts in garter st. The holes in the 8 sts in garter st are made the same way and same place as before. What are the outermost sts?and where should I add?

09.09.2016 - 13:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Sergeeva, then for this part, inc for collar at the end of row from RS, before the last 2 sts on needle (= towards top of the jacket on left front piece). Happy knitting!

09.09.2016 - 15:02

country flag Olga Sergeeva wrote:

Hi,sorry,i dont understand where should I add loops after armhole?what are this furthermost loops?apreciate your help,thank you

08.09.2016 - 23:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Sergeeva, After you have worked some rows over the sts at the bottom of piece, put them on a st holder and slip the sts on the left side of piece back onto needle, work 1 row from RS binding off the sts for armhole at beg of row, work to end of row, turn and at the end of next row from WS cast on the new sts for armhole (2 rows in the 3 smaller sizes and 4 rows in the 3 larger sizes) - cut the thread. Now slip all sts back onto needle, ie from bottom to top of jacket = there are same number of sts on needle as before shaping armhole. Happy knitting!

09.09.2016 - 09:22

country flag Olga Sergeeva wrote:

Prosim,kde mam pridat po tom pruramku?nerozumim co jsou nejvzdalenejsi oky.dekuji moc

24.08.2016 - 21:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dobrý den Olgo, jedná se o oka na okraji dílu. Hodně zdaru!

18.10.2016 - 06:57