DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Twine Love

DROPS Beret and shoulder wrap with cables knitted from side to side in ”Alpaca” and ”Kid-Silk”.

DROPS 115-32
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-433.

Size: S/M – L/XL
Hat head circumference: 52/56 – 57/60 cm
Materials: DROPS ALPACA
Colour no 100, off-white:
HAT: 100 g for both sizes
SHOULDER WRAP: 100 g for both sizes
And use: DROPS KID-SILK
Colour no 01, off-white:
HAT: 50 g for both sizes
SHOULDER WRAP: 50 g for both sizes

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 3.5 mm – or size needed to get 20 sts x 40 rows in garter st with 1 thread of each quality = 10 x 10 cm

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 and M.2 – pattern in diagram is seen from RS and shows 1 pattern repeat (first row = WS).

----------------------------------------------------------
BASQUE HAT:
SHORTENED ROWS: To make the hat wider in the middle to create the Basque shape. When turning mid piece, tighten thread before working return row to avoid holes in transitions.
Work shortened rows as follows – see Fig-1 (beg by A):
* work row to marker-4, turn, work row to marker-1, turn, work row to marker-3, turn, work row to marker-2, turn, work row to marker-5, turn, work all sts on row (= to A), turn, work row to marker-4, turn, work row to marker-1, turn, work row to marker-3, turn, work row to marker-2, turn, work all sts on row (= to B), turn, work all sts on row (= to A) *, repeat from *-*.
I.e. 1 repeat = 12 rows in the middle of piece, 4 rows on right side of piece and 2 rows on left side of piece.

HAT: Worked back and forth on needle from side to side. Loosely cast on 58-62 sts with 1 thread of each quality on needle size 3.5 mm. Insert 5 markers in piece as follows from bottom edge:
MARKER-1 after 32-32 sts,
MARKER-2 after a total of 40-40 sts,
MARKER-3 after a total of 46-48 sts,
MARKER-4 after a total of 52-56 sts and
MARKER- 5 after a total of 56-60 sts,
= 2 sts left after the last marker.
Work first row as follows (from RS): K12, P2, K2, P4, K4, P4, K2, P2 and K26-30. Work next row as follows (from WS): 26-30 garter sts, M.1 (= 20 sts), M.2 (= 6 sts), 5 stocking sts and 1 garter st (the bottom 6 sts = folding edge).
Continue in pattern like this, AT THE SAME TIME work SHORTENED ROWS – see above.
Continue until hat measures approx 48-54 cm along bottom edge (by A) – adjust so that last row is the row marked by an arrow in diagram. Cast off loosely with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY: Sew hat tog mid back, edge to edge. Run a thread through sts at the top of hat, tighten thread and fasten. Fold bottom edge towards WS along folding edge and fasten – make sure to have an even seam.
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SHOULDER WRAP:

SHORTENED ROWS: To make the piece wider along bottom edge work shortened rows as follows (beg from RS - when turning mid piece, tighten thread to avoid holes in transitions):
* Work 2 rows on all sts, work row to marker-2, turn, work return row, work row to marker-1, turn, work return row *, repeat from *-*.
I.e. 1 repeat = 6 rows along bottom edge and 2 rows at the top.

SHOULDER WRAP: Worked back and forth on needle from side to side. Loosely cast on 52-56 sts on needle size 3.5 mm with 1 thread of each quality. Insert 2 markers in piece as follows (from RS):
MARKER-1 after 27-27 sts,
MARKER-2 after a total of 37-39 sts
= 15-17 sts left at the top after last marker. Let markers follow the piece as you go along. Work SHORTENED ROWS - see above (NOTE: work the bottom 4 sts in 2 threads Alpaca + 1 thread Kid-Silk, i.e. 3 threads, throughout), AT THE SAME TIME work pattern as follows - first row = RS: K4, P2, K2, P4, K4, P4, K2, P2 and K28-32.
Work next row as follows from WS: 28-32 garter sts, M.1 (= 20 sts) and 4 garter sts. Continue in pattern like this until piece measures 35-40 cm at the top (= approx 105-120 cm along bottom edge, the opposite side) – adjust so that last row is the row marked with an arrow in diagram. NOTE: Make all measurements when piece is lying flat. Cast off loosely with K over K and P over P.
Sew shoulder wrap tog mid back, edge to edge.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P2, K2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, P2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (58)

country flag Delrue Maryse wrote:

Bonjour Je ne comprends pas très bien le diagramme des rangs raccourcis Pouvez vs m en dire un peu plus Cordialement Mme Delrue

19.12.2023 - 21:46

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Delrue, le schéma montre les rangs raccourcis, vus sur l'endroit, autrement dit, tricotez jusqu'au 4ème marqueur, tournez et tricotez jusque'(au 1er marqueur, tournez et tricotez jusqu'au 3ème marqueur, tournez et tricotez jusqu'au 2ème marqueur, tournez e tricotez jusqu'au 5ème marqueur, tournez, tricotez jusqu'au 1er marqueur, etc... Quand vous avez tricoté tous les rangs raccourcis du schéma, reprenez au début. En même temps, tricotez bien les mailles comme indiqué, point mousse, jersey et diagramme. Bon tricot!

20.12.2023 - 08:04

country flag Carole wrote:

Dans les explications des rangs raccourcis du chauffe épaules, après avoir tricoté jusqu’au marqueur 2 et tourné je ne comprends pas : - Faut-il tricoter le rang suivant jusqu’au bout puis le rang suivant jusqu'au marqueur 1 ? - ou bien le rang suivant après avoir tourné au marqueur 2 est tricoté jusqu’au marqueur 1 ? Ensuite, quand on tourne après le marqueur 1 on tricoté bien le rang jusqu’à la fin du rang ? Merci de m’éclairer

01.08.2021 - 15:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Carole, tricotez les rangs raccourcis ainsi: 2 rangs sur toutes les mailles, 2 rangs sur les mailles du début du rang sur l'endroit jusqu'au 2ème marqueur (1 rang sur l'endroit jusqu'au 2ème marqueur, tournez et tricotez ces mailles sur l'envers), 2 rangs sur les mailles du début du rang sur l'endroit jusqu'au 1er marqueur (= tricotez sur l'endroit jusqu'au 1er marqueur, tournez et tricotez ces mailles sur l'envers) = vous avez tricoté 2 rangs sur les mailles à gauche, vu sur l'endroit et 6 rangs sur les mailles à droite, vu sur l'endroit. Bon tricot!

02.08.2021 - 07:32

country flag Celine Francoeur wrote:

J'ai monté les mailles, placé les marqueurs en même temps. quand je commence le 2ième rang côté endroit les marqueurs se trouvent à gauche c'est ok? quand je me rends au 4e marqueur je tourne tricote jusqu'au 1er marqueur comment suivre le diagramme à ce moment? apres le 4e marqueur en tournant c'est M2...suis-je dans la bonne direction?

15.07.2021 - 21:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Francoeur, avez-vous regardé le schéma Fig.1? Il montre plus simplement comment tricoter les rangs raccourcis, en même temps, suivez attentivement les diagrammes en tricotant le rang suivant de ces mêmes diagrammes comme il se doit. Les diagrammes M.1 et M.2 se trouvent avant le 1er marqueur, vu sur l'endroit, vous les tricoterez donc à chaque fois que vous devez tricoter ces mailles; autrement dit, le 1er rang = flèche start, 2ème rang (envers) = 6ème des rangs raccourcis, 3ème rang = 7ème des rangs raccourcis etc... Bon tricot!

16.07.2021 - 08:37

country flag Celine Francoeur wrote:

Comment placer les marqueurs? je comprends pas ''à partir du bas'' merci

15.07.2021 - 20:20

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Francoeur, le béret se tricote à partir du bas de la bordure (celle qui sera contre le front/en bas du béret porté), placez vos marqueurs en comptant les mailles à partir du début du rang: après 32 m, après 40 m, après 46-48 m, après 52-56 m et après 56-60 m, il vous reste 2 m après le dernier marqueur. Tricotez ensuite sur l'endroit comme indiqué en suivant bien les rangs raccourcis. Bon tricot!

16.07.2021 - 08:33

country flag Géraldine wrote:

Bonjour J'j'ai réalisé le béret taille S- donc 58 mailles aiguilles numéro 4 et je ne comprends pas j'ai user juste 1 pelotes de chaque en fermant à 48cm comme il disait. Mais je ne le trouve pas aussi volumineux que la photo pas aussi gonflant. Quand il est écrit tricoter sur toutes les mailles jusqu'à À c'est bien les 56 et 58 mailles ?? Comment ce fait il qu'il me reste une pelote de chaque ?

25.05.2021 - 12:21

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Géraldine, aviez-vous le bon échantillon, soit 20 m x 40 rangs point mousse avec 1 fil Kid-Silk + 1 fil Alpaca = 10 x 10 cm? Et bien tricoté ces 2 laines? Et pas exactement, jusqu'à A = la 1ère fois = vous partez du 5ème marqueur jusqu'à la fin du rang: la 2ème fois, oui vous tricotez toutes les mailles. Vérifiez bien que vous avez bien tricoté les rangs raccourcis = 4 rangs à droite, 12 au milieu et 2 à gauche, vu sur l'endroit. Bon tricot!

25.05.2021 - 14:14

country flag Kathy Pratl wrote:

How do I fit in the shortened rows? If I start on the right side of work, do I do all shortened rows A and B, which equals 12 shortened rows. And then do I do ONLY 2 rows of pattern and repeat shortened rows again. Am I suppose to end up with 12 rows of shortened rows to every 2 rows of pattern ?

07.04.2021 - 21:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kathy, if you are wondering about the hat, then yes, you are almost right, you knit 2 rows of pattern for each 6 row repeat (the 1st on the RS and the 6th on the WS), which is 4 pattren rows for every double repeat (12 rows.) Happy Knitting!

07.04.2021 - 21:33

country flag Daria wrote:

Buongiorno, credo di aver capito come lavorare il modello. Il mio errore era inserire i segnapunti mentre montavo le maglie. Inoltre il motivo M1-M2 va lavorato solo da A fino a 26 maglie e poi si lavora a maglia legaccio. Grazie per l'aiuto :-)

19.01.2021 - 09:39

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Daria, esatto, M.1 e M.2 si lavorano su 26 maglie, il resto come indicato nel testo. Buon lavoro!

19.01.2021 - 10:50

country flag Daria wrote:

Buongiorno,ho lavorato i primi due ferri (Row1(RS):k12,p2k2,p4,k4,p4,k2,p2,k26; Row 2(WS):p26,M1(k2,p2,k4,p4,k4,p2,k2) ; inserito i segnapunti;mi trovo a dover lavorare (al dritto del lavoro) a ferri accorciati M1 (dal secondo ferro) fino al segnapunti 4 ma mi trovo con solo 6 mg da lavorare anzichè 52.Non capisco dove sto sbagliando.

18.01.2021 - 14:00

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Daria, i segnapunti vanno inseriti appena dopo l'avvio delle maglie, senza lavorare le maglie. Il primo ferro è dal diritto del lavoro così come quello su cui iniziare a lavorare i ferri accorciati e il segnapunti 4 si trova dopo 52 maglie. Buon lavoro!

18.01.2021 - 19:15

country flag Daria wrote:

Leggendo lo schema m1 dal basso verso l"alto,a quale riga del motivo m1 corrisponde il primo ferro accorciato? Cosa significa quella freccia sulla sinistra dello schema m1(settima riga contando dal basso)?

17.01.2021 - 20:17

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Daria, nel basco il 1° ferro a ferro accorciati è sul 2° ferro di M.1. La freccia indica con quale ferro deve finire il lavoro una volta raggiunta la misura corretta, come indicato nelle spiegazioni. Buon lavoro!

17.01.2021 - 21:13

country flag Daria wrote:

Buonasera, lavorando il primo ferro accorciato (fino al segnapunto 4 ) il numero di maglie da lavorare sono 20+6 (motivo M1+M2)?

17.01.2021 - 18:19

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Daria, il segnapunti 4 è posizionato a 52 maglie dall'inizio per la prima taglia. Se preferisce può mettere dei numerini ai segnapunti per identificarli durante i ferri accorciati. Buon lavoro!

17.01.2021 - 18:31