DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Baby 10-11
Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months
Size in cm: 50/56 – 62/68 – 74/80

Materials: DROPS Baby Merino from Garnstudio
Jacket:
150-150-200 g colour no 02, off-white
Jumpsuit:
200-200-200 g colour no 02, off-white
Hat:
50-50-50 g colour no 02, off-white
The whole set:
350-400-400 g colour no 02, off-white

DROPS circular, pointed and double pointed needles size 2.5 mm
DROPS buttons no 580, off-white, 5 pcs for jacket, 4 pcs for trousers
Elastic for trousers

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 26 sts x 52 rows with Baby-ull on needle size 2.5 mm in moss sts = 10 x 10 cm.

Garter sts (back and forth on needle): Knit all rows.

Moss sts: 1st row: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*. 2nd row: P over K and K over P. Repeat 2nd row.

Rib: *K1,P1*, repeat from *-*.

Pattern: See diagrams M.1-M.4. The diagram shows the pattern from the right side.

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JACKET:
Back and front piece: The jacket is knitted back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 139-155-179 sts (incl 1 edge st each side towards mid front) on needle size 2.5 mm. Knit M.3 with edge sts in garter sts. After M.3 knit next row as follows: 1 edge st, 5-5-5 sts of M.2A, 128-144-168 sts of M.2B, 4-4-4 sts in M.2C, 1 edge st. Knit 2 vertical repeats of M.2, 1 repeat of M.4 and finish the piece in moss sts. Remember the knitting tension! At the same time when piece measures 14-15-17 cm knit next row as follows: knit 32-36-42 sts (= front piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole, knit 63-71-83 sts (= back piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole, knit 32-36-42 sts (= front piece). Now complete each piece separately.

Left front: = 32-36-42 sts. Cast off for sleeve cap on every other row: 2 sts 2-1-2 times and 1 st 4-5-6 times = 24-29-32 sts. When piece measures 21-23-25 cm cast off 5-6-7 sts mid front for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 1-1-1 time and 1 st 3-4-4 times = 14-17-19 sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 26-28-31 cm.

Right front: = 32-36-42 sts. Continue as for left front, but mirrored.

Back: = 63-71-83 sts. Cast off for sleeve cap each side as described for front piece = 47-57-63 sts. When piece measures 25-27-30 cm cast off the middle 17-21-23 sts for neck and dec 1 st on neckline on next row = 14-17-19 sts left on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 26-28-31 cm.

Sleeves: Knitted back and forth on needles. Loosely cast on 40-42-44 sts on needles size 2.5 mm. Knit 2 cm Rib and continue in M.1 with 1 edge st each side in garter sts. After M.1 finish sleeve in moss sts. At the same time when piece measures 5 cm inc 1 st each side a total of 10-11-12 times on every 6 row = 60-64-68 sts. When piece measures 17-19-20 cm cast off for sleeve cap each side on every other row: 3 sts 1-1-1 time, 2 sts 1-1-1 time and then 2 sts until sleeve measures 24-25-27 cm. Cast off remaining sts.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Pick up approx 55 to 65 sts along left front edge on needle size 2.5 mm. Knit M.4 and then 2 cm Rib. Cast off in Rib. Repeat along right front edge, but after 0.5 cm make 5 buttonholes evenly distributed on row, the bottom and top ones 1 cm from edges. 1 buttonhole = cast off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts on the return row. Pick up approx 60 to 70 sts (divisible by 2) round the neck (incl front edges) on needle size 2.5 mm and knit M.1 with 2 edge sts each side in garter sts. Knit row 7 in M.1 as follows: 2 edge sts, *K2 tog, yo”, repeat from *-* and finish with K2 tog and 2 edge sts. Cast off after M.1. Sew sleeve seams, set in sleeves and sew on buttons.

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TROUSERS/JUMPSUIT:

Left leg:
Start mid under food and knit back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 54-60-64 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on circular needles size 2.5 mm and knit garter sts. When piece measures 2 cm insert a marker and measure piece from here.
After 4-4-5 cm dec each side on every other row: 3 sts 0-1-1 time and 2 sts 3-2-2 times = 42-46-50 sts.
Distribute the sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and knit round in Rib. After 2 cm continue in M.1, at the same time inc 20 sts evenly on 1st round = 62-66-70 sts.
After M.1 divide piece at inner side of leg (= split to facilitate putting legs on the same circular needle later).
Finish leg back and forth on needle and inc 1 st each side for seam = 64-68-72 sts. Continue in moss sts and inc 1 st each side on every 6 row a total of 6-8-9 times = 74-84-90 sts.
When piece measures 21-23-26 cm cast off 5 sts each side = 66-74-80 sts. Put the piece aside and knit the other leg.

Right leg: Cast on and knit as left leg but with the split the other side.

Body: Put both legs on the same circular needle = 132-148-160 sts. Insert a marker mid front. Continue in moss sts back and forth on needle from mid back. At the same time inc 1 st each side for seam = 134-150-162 sts. After 4 rows inc each side mid back and dec mid front (all dec and inc done from RS) as follows:
Inc mid back (each side): 1 st inside 2 edge sts on every other row a total of 8 times.
Dec mid front: K/P2 tog before MT, slip 1 st as if to K/P, K/P1, psso after marker.

Continue as follows:

Trousers: When piece measures 42-46-50 cm P 1 row from RS and knit 2 cm stocking sts (= casing). Cast off.

Jumpsuit: When piece measures 42-51-56 cm knit M.1 with 1 edge st each side in garter sts and after M.1 finish piece in moss sts.
When piece measures 46-55-60 cm cast off for armholes as follows: knit 31-35-38 sts (= half back piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole, knit 60-68-74 sts (= front piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole, knit 31-35-38 sts (= half back piece). Now finish each piece separately.

Front piece: = 60-68-74 sts. Dec for armhole each side on every other row: 2 sts 1-1-1 time and 1 st 2-3-4 times = 52-58-62 sts. When piece measures 49-59-64 cm cast off the middle 14-16-18 sts for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 1-1-1 time and 1 st 4-4-4 times = 13-15-16 sts left on each shoulder. When piece measures 54-64-70 cm continue in garter sts over all shoulder sts, at the same time after 2 rows make 2 buttonholes as follows: K2, cast off 2 sts, K 5-7-8 sts, cast off 2 sts, K1. On the return row cast on 2 sts over the cast off sts. Cast off after 6 rows in garter sts. Knit the other shoulder the same way.

Left back piece: = 31-35-38 sts. Dec for armhole at side as done for front piece = 27-30-32 sts. When piece measures 53-63-69 cm cast off 13-14-15 sts for neck and dec 1 st on neckline on next row = 13-15-16 sts left on shoulder. When piece measures 54-64-70 cm knit 6 rows in garter sts over all shoulder sts and cast off.

Right back piece: = 31-35-38 sts. Knit as left front piece, but reversed.

Assembly:
Trousers: Sew leg seams and seam mid back. Fold casing double towards WS and insert an elastic ribbon.
Jumpsuit: Sew leg seams and seam mid back. Pick up approx 65 to 75 sts round right armhole on needle size 2.5 mm and knit 4 rows garter sts. Cast off. Repeat round left armhole. Pick up 50 to 70 sts round front neck on needle size 2.5 mm and knit 4 rows garter sts. Cast off. Pick up 35 to 50 sts round back neck on needle size 2.5 mm and knit 4 rows garter sts. Cast off. Sew on buttons.

Sew the seam under foot from the heel and up over the toes, sew inside 1 edge st. Sew on the buttons.

____________________________________________________________________

HAT:

To fit head circumference: 41-44-47 cm

Cast on 75-91-99 sts on needle size 2.5 and knit M.3. After M.3 knit next row as follows: 1 garter st, 5 sts of M.2A, 64-80-88 sts in M.2B, 4 sts in M.2C, 1 garter sts. Knit 1 vertical repeat of M.2 and finish piece in moss sts. When piece measures 10-11-12 cm cast off 24-31-34 sts each side and continue in moss sts over the middle 27-29-31 sts until piece measures 20-22-24 cm. Cast off. Sew the piece mid back to side pieces. Pick up approx 80 to 90 sts along lower edge and knit M.1 with 2 edge sts in garter sts each side. Knit row 7 in M.1 as follows: 2 edge sts, *K2 tog, yo”, repeat from *-* and finish with K2 tog and 2 edge sts. Cast off after M.1. Cut a thread measuring approx 3 meters, fold it double, twist into a ribbon and pull through row of holes on bottom edge

Diagram

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = K2 tog, 1 yo
symbols = 1 yo, slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso
symbols = 1 yo, slip 1 st as if to knit, K2 tog, psso, 1 yo
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (102)

country flag Erika Reinhold wrote:

Von wo wird diese Angabe im Rumpfteil gemessen? "Wenn die Arb. 14-15-17 cm misst, die nächste R wie folgt stricken: 32-36-42 M = Vorderteil,". Die Zeichnung gibt an, das diese Aufteilung nach 26-28-31 cm erfolgen soll.

23.02.2024 - 20:09

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Reinhold, messen Sie ab die Anschlagskante, dh mit den Bündchen; die 26-28-31 cm in der Maßskizzen sind die gesamte Höhe bis Schulter. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

26.02.2024 - 07:23

country flag Dorte wrote:

Hej Jeg er i gang med selebukserne, og har svært ved at forstå aflukningen af hvert bukseben før de samles på rundpinden. Sådan som det skrives - 5 masker i hver side. Mon det menes, at det er 5 masker på hver side af indersøm (der hvor der er laves udtagningerne).? På forhånd tak

06.02.2024 - 22:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Dorte. Ja, etter M.1 er strikkes deles arbeidet på innsiden av benet og det strikkes nå frem og tilbake igjen. Så når arbeidet måler 21-23-26 cm starter du med å felle 5 masker, strikk 66-74-80 masker og fell de siste 5 maskene. Du har nå felt 5 masker i hver side. mvh DROPS Design

16.02.2024 - 08:42

country flag Petra Mliko wrote:

Sind im Diagramm Hin- und Rückreihen gezeichnet?

15.06.2023 - 18:25

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Mike, ja genau, alle Reihen sind im Diagram gezeichnet, so daß M.2 wird glatt rechts gestrickt (Rückreihen links) und die Kreuzen im M.1 werden rechts bei den Rückreihen gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

16.06.2023 - 07:14

country flag Sima wrote:

Bonsoir; est ce qu’il y aurait une video pour la couture de la combinaison surtout entre les jambes au niveau du trou qui se trouve dans le dos merci beaucoup 😊

29.05.2023 - 22:44

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sima, faites d'abord la couture des jambes ainsi, puis assemblez les 10 mailles rabattues (5 pour chaque jambe) du devant du pantalon/de la combinaison aux 10 mailles rabattues côté dos ainsi. Bon tricot!

30.05.2023 - 11:18

country flag Sima wrote:

Bonsoir; je suis bloquée au niveau deM2 2 éme lignes j’ai refait et refait mais je n’ai pas le même motif sachant que j’ai le nombre de mailles exactes pour le bonnet (75) est ce que les 2 m lisières sont comprises ds ce diagramme et est ce qu’il y aurait une vidéo qui explique le diagramme merci beaucoup.

27.05.2023 - 21:41

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sima, tricotez M.2 ainsi: 1 maille lisière au point mousse, M.2a (= 5 mailles), répétez 8 fois M.2b(= 8 x 8 mailles = 64 mailles), M.2c (= 4 mailles) et terminez par 1 maille lisière au point mousse (= 1+5+64+4+1=75 mailles). Au 5ème rang des diagrammes, tricotez les 2 dernières mailles de M.2a avec la 1ère maille de M.2b (le 1er jeté est maintenant la dernière maille de M.2a), tricotez les 2 dernières mailles de M.2b avec la 1ère maille du M.2b suivant/de M.2 c à la fin du rang). Bon tricot!

30.05.2023 - 10:40

country flag Sima wrote:

Autrement dis les augmentations et les diminutions sont les mêmes que ça soit pantalon ou combinaison la diffère se fera après càd à 42 cm de hauteur c ça merci beaucoup de m’aider

12.05.2023 - 23:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sima, tout à fait, dans la 1ère taille, vous tricotez les 2 jambes et le début de la combinaison de la même façon que pour le pantalon, puis, à 42 cm de hauteur totale, vous tricotez la bordure de la taille pour le pantalon (1 tour envers sur l'endroit + 2 cm jersey). Pour la combinaison, vous continuez comme indiqué. Bon tricot!

15.05.2023 - 13:29

country flag Simaj wrote:

Bonjour; pour faire la combinaison rassembler les 2 jambes sur la mm aiguille circulaire mais on fera pas les augmentation de chaque coté 8 fois comme pour le pantalon c'est ça merci de m'aider.

11.05.2023 - 13:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Simaj, les augmentations au milieu dos et les diminutions au milieu devant se font pour le pantalon la combinaison; autrement dit pour la combinaison vous devez aussi augmenter au milieu dos et diminuer au milieu devant. Bon tricot!

12.05.2023 - 08:09

country flag Diane Andersen wrote:

Please explain the decrease for the sleeve cap, a little clearer instructions would be good, as I have followed the instructions and the sleeve is not 24cm long and does not fit into the sleeve area it is too small.

05.05.2023 - 11:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Andersen, in first size, when sleeve measures 17 cm, cast off 3 sts at the beg of next 2 rows, then 2 sts at the beg of next 2 rows (you have worked 4 rows); cast off now 2 stitches at the beg of each row (both from RS and from WS) until the sleeve measures 24 cm - make sure to cast off the same number of times on RS as on WS, then cast off all remaining stitches. Happy knitting!

05.05.2023 - 13:07

country flag Lene Karin Nordentoft wrote:

Jeg er nu i gang med huen. Hvis jeg følger opskriften vil midterstykket bagpå blive 3 cm længere end siden på forstykket den skal syes sammen med. Det forstår jeg ikke Hjælp

02.05.2023 - 22:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lene, midterstykket skal passe til sidestykkerne :)

04.05.2023 - 12:04

country flag Sima wrote:

Bonjour; je suis entrain de faire la 1ere manche je peux savoir à la fin avant de rabattre les mailles combien je doit avoir de mailles merci

02.05.2023 - 16:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sima, tout dépend de votre tension en hauteur, ici on va se baser sur la longueur plus que sur le nombre de mailles, autrement dit, rabattez d'abord de chaque côté tous les 2 rangs 1 fois 3 m, puis 1 fois 2 ; rabattez ensuite 2 m de chaque côté jusqu'à ce que la manche mesure 24-25-27 cm de hauteur totale - ajustez pour que vous ayez rabattu autant de mailles de chaque côté pour que la tête de manche soit symétrique. Rabattez ensuite les mailles restantes, la tête de manche doit mesurer 6-6-7 cm. Bon tricot!

03.05.2023 - 07:47